Labconco 28044 Fume Hood - From Ebay

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kadriver

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 25, 2010
Messages
1,830
Location
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I wanted to share my new toy with the forum.

I received it this week and today I was able to begin the installation.

It was $250, and another $260 to have it shipped from an Ebay seller.

I am well pleased with it.

I have a tray that I bought from the thrift store and it fits perfectly inside the hood to catch any spills.

I laid some heavy black floor matting from Lowes on top of the home-made wooden table to protect the wood from the fumes.

The glass door slides up and down and uses counter weights on cables with pulleys, perfectly balanced for nice smooth operation.

I will use 8 inch PVC ducted out throught attic to the roof gable vents - pictures to follow.

I don't plan to use a scrubber - I only work with small amounts of material.

The only restrictions I have found - NOT SUITABLE FOR PERCHLORIC ACID - NON-EXPLOSION PROOF - on the warning lable.

kadriver
 

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I installed the ducting today and the fume hood works perfectly.

I went straight up thru the ceil drywall - just cut a hole with a drywall saw.

I went into the attic over the garage and using a plumbob (a weight on a string) I aligned the outlet of the hood with a spot thru the roof.

Then used a sawsall and cut an oval thru the roof, shingles and all.

I went on the roof and stuck the 10 foot section of 6 inch (instead of 8 inch) green colored sewer PVC pipe straight down the hole and into the rubber coupling on the hood outlet. I had it done in about 20 minutes

The rubber reducing adapter slipped over the outlet of the hood (O.D. was 7 inches) and connected the 6 inch side to the PVC.

I am in business with a nice fume hood.

One problem - I need some sort of cap at the top to keep water from running down into the fume hood when it rains.

Too bad they don't make a plastic wind turbine to fit over the top of it.

I'll post some pictures of the installation soon.

kadriver

The green PVC extends to about 2 feet above the peak of my roof.
 
you could put a Tee on it at the top like some HVAC people do for furnace exhaust.

you might run into problem with condensation. A 90 that slope away from you outlet might have been better than straight up. just something to catch the water till the draft dried it out again. This could still be done if you could move you fume hood over 20in or so and add the makeshift trap.

just some thoughts.

Eric
 
I just put 2 45's on mine, or you could use a 90 but it will slow the air down more then 2 45's.
 
two 45s won't stop the water from sliding down the pipe into the hood. you need something to trap the water or weak acid till it can evaporate.

His air flow will be hampered but not by more than he will need. Even added to reducing the pipe out and the direction change still shouldn't be that much with the short run he has.

Eric
 
Kadriver i know you have not though about your roof in this ...but if you have a shingle roof and plan on using acids you may want to duck your fumes to the edge or through a scrubber, Acids with eat up shingles. Just a though for you.
Ken

edited very nice hood, great buy.
 
The acid on the shingles is a concern. I may add another 5 foot extention higher up to ensure the fumes don't get near the roof.

A scupper around the pipe to catch drip from the tip would prevent any acid from running down the outside of the exhaust pipe and onto the roof.

Thanks for these inputs - two heads are better than one, and three heads are better than two!

I am leaning toward a plastic or PVC rain cap like the one pictured here. A balanced counter weight would reduce restriction.

kadriver
 

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Use two 45 degree elbows as was suggested above. add enough height first so that there are two or three feet between the bottom of the second elbow and the roof shingles so the fumes will dissipate somewhat and reduce the impact of the acid on your shingles.

This way the the duct outlet points down instead of up and rain will not enter it.
 
The 2 45's are to keep rain out not keep condensation out. After the scrubber there is a Y and a 2 foot drop so any condensation that could accumulate in the vertical stack would run down into the drop. But I must say that every time I have checked the drop it has been dry. Same concept as when your plumbing your air compressor lines, each place there is a vertical line there is a drop at the bottom with a valve for bleeding out the water.
 
Here is the hole in the ceiling drywall - Once I had the fume hood in place, I used a straight edge (piece of wood) with a marker taped to it to draw the circle.

Then I used a drywall saw and cut out the hole. I came out in between two rafters with no interference.
 

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I installed a metal strap to secure the 6 inch pipe. I butted the pipe against the edge of the hole through the roof, then screwed the strap in place.

It is very tight and the wind won't be able to budge it (I know I couldn't).

I plan to add a second metal strap down low also - I'll put a piece of 2x4 between the pipe and the rafter, then install another metal strap to ensure that it can't move, and places no stress on the fume hood or rubber coupling - we get huricanes here from time to time.
 

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This pic shows the strap and the pipe butted against the side of the hole going through the roof - it is very solid.
 

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I bought a piece of plastic gutter screen (used to keep leaves out of your gutters) to use as a support for the roofing cement -$2 from Lowes.

The roof cement was $9

I used a pair of aviation shears to cut the plastic gutter screen to form a tight fit around the green PVC.

Then I put some cement on the screen and stapled it to the underside of the roof sheeting.
 

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I stuffed some insulation in the hole through the ceiling to form a temperature barrier
 

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Up on the roof, I ran a nice bead of the roof cement to form a water tight barrier.

After it sets, I'll add another layer to guarantee that it won't leak

I used general purpose asphalt roofing cement - it is like tar.

The pipe extends about 2 or 3 feet above the peak of the roof.

I can add another 3 foot extension to get it even higher if needed.

My wife made me promise to pain it flat black.

With the unit running, I checked noise level from the front yard - sounds like someone is running an electric clothes dryer.

I am going to make a rain cap from parts - similar to the one pictured earlier in this post.

I'll make it from plexiglass or other heavy plastic and use a plastic hinge of my own design - photos to follow.

If anyone knows where I can get a 6 inch, hinged, plastic rain cap, then please let me know

Thanks for looking - hope this post can be of some help to others looking to do the same.

kadriver
 

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I have not totally disregarded the "T" or the 2, 45s as a solution to the rain.

I may have to go with one of these suggestions.

Two 45s would put the exhaust aimed right at the shingles, unless I add an horizontal extension out over the side edge of the roof.

But I also have a window AC unit that would then receive a direct blast of noxxy exhaust.

With pipe pointing straight up, I should get a fairly good dissipation of any fumes.

A single 45 pointed side ways away from the roof would be a good solution also.

The hood has a drain tube in case of moisture running down the exhaust.

I don't think much rain will get down the pipe, except in the case of an extended storm such as a hurricane.

If that happens I would buy a cover and duct tape the dickens out of it.

Thanks for all the input so far - kadriver
 
kadriver said:
I have not totally disregarded the "T" or the 2, 45s as a solution to the rain.

I may have to go with one of these suggestions.

Two 45s would put the exhaust aimed right at the shingles, unless I add an horizontal extension out over the side edge of the roof.

But I also have a window AC unit that would then receive a direct blast of noxxy exhaust.

With pipe pointing straight up, I should get a fairly good dissipation of any fumes.

A single 45 pointed side ways away from the roof would be a good solution also.

The hood has a drain tube in case of moisture running down the exhaust.

I don't think much rain will get down the pipe, except in the case of an extended storm such as a hurricane.

If that happens I would buy a cover and duct tape the dickens out of it.

Thanks for all the input so far - kadriver
Kadriver, hate to be the bearer of bad news here...but the roofing cement will not hold up for you. Roofing is my trade. You need to go to a roofing supply company NOT HOME DEPOT OR LOWES and ask for a rubber or plastic pipe flange for the size of pipe you have and install it around your pipe.
The roofing cement will dryout and crack open allowing water to pintrate down inside. Ask your local supply rep the proper way to install it. You will need to remove a few shingles and reinstall the shingles around the pipe. Although it looks great Kadriver it will not hold up. good luck.

Ken
 
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