I Need a Little Help Please!!!!

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modtheworld44

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
407
Location
Chattanooga,TN
I got this induction furnace in today.https://www.ebay.com/itm/15KW-High-Frequency-Induction-Heater-Furnace-110-220V-18Kg-40-Lbs-30-100-Khz/182826308639?hash=item2a914c141f:g:nYUAAOSw9TdZ4A~z


I need to know if it has built-in water pump for the water cooling or do I need to provide one.I know I'll have to make my own water tank.The instruction manual is vague at best, so thought I would ask you guys and gals.It is really important for me to get this up and running as soon as possible.
I found one guy(EJ of the anvil) on youtube.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNZkxVRb5Ys&t=256s
I want to say from watching his videos that I need to provide the pump.If some one could help me get this setup I would really be grateful.This is our final testing before I do our up scaling.Thank you in advance.
 
Usually you buy the unit as a base and then you can either pay a premium to have the water cooling system added or either provide your own pump, tank, and heat exchanger with a cooling fan. You will more than likely have to buy your own.
 
Pretty cool!!!! I need on its a toy I don't yet have

It looks like you need water under pressure. Is that with a pump just using the tap or a suspended water tank using gravity.

The guy in the video is using it for blacksmithing so he will be using it on more that you will??? dont know but it is said to have protections so you can play with it and not fry it hopefully.

Eric
 
Palladium said:
Usually you buy the unit as a base and then you can either pay a premium to have the water cooling system added or either provide your own pump, tank, and heat exchanger with a cooling fan. You will more than likely have to buy your own.

Palladium

You think a 200GPH pump will work,maybe coupled with liquid nitrogen cooled water tank?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44
 
modtheworld44 said:
snoman701 said:
You need a pump and some head, as in back pressure.


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snoman701

Can you be a bit more detailed please?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44

Sure...but please take the side off and post pictures of the internals, specifically tracing the water in and out.

My understanding of these is that they do not measure flow of the water, but measure to make sure there is a small amount of pressure there. Most people that use them with a cooling unit are using them with a TIG welding cooler such as the miller coolmate. All it is is a closed system that circulates water through a radiator, but it is a closed system. A closed system will have a small amount of pressure in the lines, and the induction generator measures that to ensure that there is cooling water present.

So you can operate with nothing but a water line from the faucet, as long as you provide a valve on the discharge line that you can close down slightly to increase the pressure on the induction unit side.

You will want to measure the outgoing water to ensure that the temperature is reasonable, at least below boiling of course. The higher the temperature, the more likely it is to cause deterioration to the copper in the induction unit or your coil.

Next time I'm at the melt shop I'll take pictures of his system so it can all be identified so it makes more sense...but for all extensive purposes right now, if you want to get running, hook a garden hose up to it and put a gate valve on the outgoing side. Close down the gate valve until it operates.

You could very easily set up a small cooling system with a car radiator, or even a heater core and a tank of water. In a perfect world, that water will be deionized, but I really doubt I'll be using DI water on mine when I buy it....just anything clean.
 
You want to get your coil potted in a refractory as well. It will not only increase your melt capacity considerably by providing some insulation, but also provide a protective cover for the coil. You don't want to tap it on accident as I doubt these small units have ground fault protection.

I am very interested to see how it works for you though, I'm taking a load to Ohio on Wednesday and hoping to put the proceeds into one of these.
 
snoman701 said:
modtheworld44 said:
snoman701 said:
You need a pump and some head, as in back pressure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

snoman701

Can you be a bit more detailed please?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44

Sure...but please take the side off and post pictures of the internals, specifically tracing the water in and out.

My understanding of these is that they do not measure flow of the water, but measure to make sure there is a small amount of pressure there. Most people that use them with a cooling unit are using them with a TIG welding cooler such as the miller coolmate. All it is is a closed system that circulates water through a radiator, but it is a closed system. A closed system will have a small amount of pressure in the lines, and the induction generator measures that to ensure that there is cooling water present.

So you can operate with nothing but a water line from the faucet, as long as you provide a valve on the discharge line that you can close down slightly to increase the pressure on the induction unit side.

You will want to measure the outgoing water to ensure that the temperature is reasonable, at least below boiling of course. The higher the temperature, the more likely it is to cause deterioration to the copper in the induction unit or your coil.

Next time I'm at the melt shop I'll take pictures of his system so it can all be identified so it makes more sense...but for all extensive purposes right now, if you want to get running, hook a garden hose up to it and put a gate valve on the outgoing side. Close down the gate valve until it operates.

You could very easily set up a small cooling system with a car radiator, or even a heater core and a tank of water. In a perfect world, that water will be deionized, but I really doubt I'll be using DI water on mine when I buy it....just anything clean.

snoman701

Thanks going to go buy the hoses and tee's I need today.The guy in video says for the 110v model you need a dedicated 110v 70a line too?Do they even make a breaker like that?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44
 
lol...interesting

well, i always wondered how they were wired. 110 volt and 15 kw is a lot of juice!

take a picture of that breaker on the back of the machine and post it, as well as the lugs where you put the wires coming in. If you can rewire it for 240 volt, you'd be a lot better off.

But if it's really 70 amp, you MAY be able to find an 80 amp breaker, it's going to have dual poles, but you only need one pole and the neutral line. This would have you running *I think* 4 gauge wire, which for any length could quickly get more expensive than the induction melter. Might want to look that wire size up or hope unclebenben sees this post, he's an electrical contractor.

I'd strongly recommend a disconnect if your electrical panel isn't in the same room....but you'll probably have to use a 100 amp disconnect. 70 amps through a single wire is a lot of juice. 70 amps is more than you can reasonably run a plug of any sorts for.
 
snoman701 said:
You want to get your coil potted in a refractory as well. It will not only increase your melt capacity considerably by providing some insulation, but also provide a protective cover for the coil. You don't want to tap it on accident as I doubt these small units have ground fault protection.

I am very interested to see how it works for you though, I'm taking a load to Ohio on Wednesday and hoping to put the proceeds into one of these.

snoman701

The machine comes with to different size coils,each is covered in insulation.There is a grounding post on the back of the machine too.Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44
 
snoman701 said:
No, I mean the lugs coming in to the machine from the wall.


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snoman701

Let me see if I got this right.The lugs from wall wire need to be 4 gauge in size?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44
 
I think so, but it's honestly hard to tell you without seeing the unit.

See, part of the problem is that the in power doesn't match the out power. In order for it to be "15 kw", 110 volts would need 140 amps of power. At 70 amps, it would correspond with a 240 volt power supply.

HOWEVER, the chinese clones routinely overestimate power output, without a corresponding increase in input power.

These are kits at best, but for me, it's worth it to get to know how they function, as I can buy four of these in comparison to one that has support in North America.

So from this end, without a reliable manual, without being able to investigate how it's wired internally, it's really hard to recommend how to set it up...and short of finding other people with the identical unit, it will require waiting until I get one and set it up.

Just to let you know, you will have mosfet failures, and you will have capacitor failures. You best start learning your way around the internals of the machine now, as opposed to later.
 
According to the information i found it should pull 37 amps on a 220 volt circuit. The water pressure needs to be 30 psi at a flow rate of about 60 gph with a temp of about 110 degrees F for 100% duty cycle .
 
Palladium said:
According to the information i found it should pull 37 amps on a 220 volt circuit. The water pressure needs to be 30 psi at a flow rate of about 60 gph with a temp of about 110 degrees F for 100% duty cycle .

Palladium

It's a 110v unit and not the 220v.I'm trying not to blow the machine up before I at least get to test my idea.The water part I now know how to do,it's the electrical I'm still confused about.I didn't think it was going to be this difficult to get it up and running.......uuuuuuuhhhhh.Thank you for taking the time to help me,I know your a busy person.



modtheworld44
 
Looking at the last picture in the eBay listing, the two power lugs look like they are stamped 40A. 8 gauge wire would carry that with a 40 amp breaker. Mod, do you have anything other than the utube video you mentioned that says it needs a 70 amp circuit? Maybe he's being over conservative?

Dave
 
According to everything i read it will run 220.
http://jinlaiem.en.made-in-china.com/product/qKpmvkfUhecH/China-High-Frequeny-15kw-Induction-Heater-Melting-Furnace-JL-15KW-.html
 
Anything more detailed in terms of suggestions will require photos of your specific machine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
FrugalRefiner said:
Looking at the last picture in the eBay listing, the two power lugs look like they are stamped 40A. 8 gauge wire would carry that with a 40 amp breaker. Mod, do you have anything other than the utube video you mentioned that says it needs a 70 amp circuit? Maybe he's being over conservative?

Dave

FrugalRefiner

I was just on the phone with shark asking him if that stamp meant 40A,then clicked in to see what you and palladium have posted.Thank you for the double confirmation.I should have this baby up and running in the next couple of hours,going to home depot.Thank yall for all the help.It really means alot guy's.



modtheworld44
 
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