techniques on melting gold

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Captgm

New member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
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1
when melting gold jewerly can you mix 18kt and 14kt ,10kt together and melt them and use some borex to remover the other metals out ?
 
You have spent nearly SEVEN MINUTES on this board and already asking questions (looks like you almost took a few seconds to look around.....) :!:

Why don't you take some time reading the posts and you will find that not only your plan has many flaws, but the end result will be nothing like you think......

(there's only about a thousand posts about "MELTING ALONE DOESN'T PROVIDE PURE GOLD" and how to go about it, if that is really what you are after.)

do a SEARCH (that funny looking box in the top right corner - really, it is useful and works!) for "melting gold" or perhaps "pure gold" or a variety of other things that may apply to what you are WANTING out of this 'technique'.

From what you said, there are many ways to do and lots of variants on what you might be putting in the pot to mix together (which would be a MISTAKE, most likely, until you know what you are dealing with).

you need to do a lot more reading before starting that fire!
 
Captgm said:
when melting gold jewerly can you mix 18kt and 14kt ,10kt together and melt them and use some borex to remover the other metals out ?
Click to expand...
Please read Hoke's book.

Harold
 
you can mix them together and melt without issue. If equal amounts of each, you'll get an approximate 14K gold (18+14+10)/3. But I wouldn't put any hallmark on it as it's not guaranteed.
Melting will NOT remove any metal impurities. borax traps metal oxides, very different. If you want to refine the gold, you have to refine it. melting is only the last step in that.
 
Good Morning, all! I hope I have found myself at the right place.
Is there anyone here who can give me some insight on melting the gold powder reclaimed from electronics, computers, etc.?
Basically I have been doing a lot of homework on how the process goes and am familliar with the safety issues with chemicals, fire, fumes, handling waste chemicals, n' such.
QUESTION: Most everything I have learned or watched on melting the gold, involves using a Clay type crucible, prepped (seasoned), of course. During my travels over many years, I picked up a cast iron crucible. I know it is prone to oxidation (it is rusty right now, and I plan on cleaning it, if I use it at all.
Now, can I use the cast iron crucible just as I would the clay type, and would I prep it with borax powder the same way?
Please help me as my frustration level is gettin' pretty high, because I can find no useful information on the internet, or really anyone who wants to share their experience, or knowlege about these things.
BTW, I am planning on getting some good books as soon as I can. Also sorry about being a little long-winded. It's the way I was made.....
Thank you to anyone with good info.!
xod.
 
Do not use any metal crucibles to melt metals.

At best, some of the crucible will dissolve into your gold - gold has an affinity for iron. At worst, the gold will with the crucible and you will have a mess that will be difficult to separate.

Look around the forum, this issue has been discussed many times.
 
Thank you for the info. I am finding many sites on-line to buy the items I need, but nothing really on a local level. Looks like I have a little more direction now! I can't thank you enough, just for the reply. As you can see I am new to this forum, and will be back to share as much as possible.
I am curious about the cast Iron crucible, and what it was origionally used for. its about 4" in diameter, no pour spout, and has a little stub of a handle on it.
wonder if it was possibly used for sampling finished product at a steel or casting plant. I have been to those, and might have picked it up there at some point...
Have a great day! I'm having some vehicle troubles today, and must address those..
xodiax :eek:
 
Your cast iron crucible was likely used for lead. Much lower temperature, rather indifferent as to purity, a completely different animal.

You say you've looked around the 'net....you've found the best spot. Whether or not you can obtain the proper things you need locally is not what matters. You can always send away for them. What matters is that here, on this forum, you have access to literally hundreds of years of professional grade commercial experience. It's an incomparable resource. If you get advice or direction as to how to perform something, I can only urge you in strongest terms to pay close attention and follow the directions given. NONE of these veterans, if they had a suspicion that was an easier way, a cheaper way, would hesitate to try a new approach. They probably have, and they have returned to the tried and true methods. The folks who get into trouble are the ones who do not follow the recipes. Whether it is amateurish impatience, ego, thinking they know all about chemistry, goofballism thinking they heard it somewhere on the 'net that you can refine gold using leftover fishfood, over and over again, the people who bust their rear ends adhering to the specificed formulae get nice shiny buttons and those who don't get containers of toxic glop.
 
element47.5 said:
Your cast iron crucible was likely used for lead. Much lower temperature, rather indifferent as to purity, a completely different animal.

You say you've looked around the 'net....you've found the best spot. Whether or not you can obtain the proper things you need locally is not what matters. You can always send away for them. What matters is that here, on this forum, you have access to literally hundreds of years of professional grade commercial experience. It's an incomparable resource. If you get advice or direction as to how to perform something, I can only urge you in strongest terms to pay close attention and follow the directions given. NONE of these veterans, if they had a suspicion that was an easier way, a cheaper way, would hesitate to try a new approach. They probably have, and they have returned to the tried and true methods. The folks who get into trouble are the ones who do not follow the recipes. Whether it is amateurish impatience, ego, thinking they know all about chemistry, goofballism thinking they heard it somewhere on the 'net that you can refine gold using leftover fishfood, over and over again, the people who bust their rear ends adhering to the specificed formulae get nice shiny buttons and those who don't get containers of toxic glop.
Click to expand...

This is the gospel truth xodiax. You mentioned getting books, This forum has a section dedicated to helping folks obtain the best of those books... free of charge!!!

So that way, when retired metallurgists give you the best advice they can...

Please read Hoke's book.

Harold

You'll be able to follow their advice and find the success they did.
 
Steve help I've followed all instructions to get pure gold and am now at melting the brown powder gold with propane canister the gold is not melting properly it's giving me tiny bits of micro gold and a bronzes goldy browny metal what's wrung did I use too much. Smb to drop gold or not wash properly or is propane no good
 
Get yourself a gas regulator and oxygen regulator and a good torch. Put the gas regulator on the propane tank and the oxygen to an oxygen tank like a welder would use. Hook up your torch. Turn the gas on and light. Adjust gas to a 4" flame. Turn on a bit of oxygen . Listen to your torch, you should not hear a hiss. Use a small reducing flame until your gold crystallizes , then turn up the flame a bit and melt until your bead is round. With practice you will feel like a pro in no time at a all. :mrgreen:
 
I have a new MAPP gas torch made by Worthington in OH. It seems to blow awful hard compared to my propane torch and I can't seem to keep any powder in the dish. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I look for a different MAPP torch?
 
I can only go on my limited experience and suggest what I've done and seen done by others. Using a crucible and making sure that until the powder is "caking together" the force of the flame is off the powder itself seems to work fine.

Once it's caked it goes well. You do raise a good point though and I think that the quantity of powder makes a difference. For small quantities it's likely to be more difficult to do. I've heard suggestions before that using a propane torch to cake the powder then switching to the mapp to melt is also viable. I'm sure that someone with a lot more experience than me will be along shortly to provide better help.
 
I've never used Mapp gas but I have used propane/O2, acetylene/O2, and natural gas/O2 many times. In all of these the trick is to first hold the tip of the flame about a foot away and then bring the tip of the flame slowly closer. At some point, you will see a crust forming on the gold. Then, you slowly work the flame closer and closer. At some point, you can get really close and melt the gold. When I first started, I blew out the powder. Now, I don't lose anything. The crust is all important.
 
Best method is to use an electric furnace with a graphite crucible. If it is very fine (refined gold in powder form) you can first put it in some little bit of tissue paper and gently put in the furnace before heating.This will ensure that all the fine gold melt and stick together.(FFunky-A black african monkey from kenya with Gold)
 
ffunky said:
Best method is to use an electric furnace with a graphite crucible. If it is very fine (refined gold in powder form) you can first put it in some little bit of tissue paper and gently put in the furnace before heating.This will ensure that all the fine gold melt and stick together.(FFunky-A black african monkey from kenya with Gold)
Click to expand...
Uhhhhh------no, that's not the "best way". It's just "a way", and I'd never make that recommendation. I see no need for the tissue paper, and I damned well couldn't justify the time needed for the furnace to come to heat. I melted, literally, thousands of ounces of re-refined gold, using nothing more than a large melting dish and Hoke torch (by choice, after having experimented with an electric furnace). I could melt 50 ounces quicker than you could get the furnace up to heat.

There is virtually no need for a melting furnace unless one processes a large volume of gold at one time. Even then it may be a trade-0ff.

Harold
 
goldsilverpro said:
I've never used Mapp gas but I have used propane/O2, acetylene/O2, and natural gas/O2 many times. In all of these the trick is to first hold the tip of the flame about a foot away and then bring the tip of the flame slowly closer. At some point, you will see a crust forming on the gold. Then, you slowly work the flame closer and closer. At some point, you can get really close and melt the gold. When I first started, I blew out the powder. Now, I don't lose anything. The crust is all important.
Click to expand...
Hi
Which is correct? 1 or 2? I ask this because I don't see any distance from tip of flame to crucible in all of videos in YouTube! Even those videos that made with GRF users!

http://uupload.ir/files/td9p_ewweewew.jpg

Also some guys here say hold torch (not flame) 12 inch away and you say hold tip of flame one foot away
I am a little confuse

Thanks
 

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