Gold remains after SMB drop.

I just officially joined. Thank to all of you for having me.

My question is this. I just dropped some gold out of solution using SMB after using AR on ceramic chips. I did not get much to settle as i had hope. But, there is clearly fine gold foating on the top. Are there any suggestions on how the recover this?

Again thank you.

hi, all the information you need is here on the forum.

sounds like you have free nitric, Hoke covers this in her book also on this forum for 100% free

gs2420 said:

My question is this. I just dropped some gold out of solution using SMB after using AR on ceramic chips. I did not get much to settle as i had hope. But, there is clearly fine gold foating on the top. Are there any suggestions on how the recover this?

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If you have gold floating on top, you can knock it down with a spray bottle. Keeping your glassware scrupulously clean will help to minimize this problem.

Dave

Hello and welcome...

You just joinning and are actively doing something is a problem for us here.

Where did you learn what you are doing?
Hopefully not Youtubewillhurtyou videos...

Do you have a plan on disposing of the solution when you are done with it?
How did you Denox the solution before dropping gold?
Alittle more knowledge goes a very long way and we on this forum can help but only if you do your homework.

Let us know

B.S.

I would be less than honest if I said I had never watched a U-tube video gold refining early on. This is something that has always interested me.
I want to do it correctly, safely and by the book. So I have made arrangements for my waste.

I used Urea to put down the Nitric Acid. I added it after pour in off the liquid from the AR reaction. I have had trouble determaining what is enough to do the trick. While it does not react any more it does disolve. When I added the SMB I got a drop smaller than I expected and saw gold film on the top.

On a second small rum I got not drop at all. I am assuming that the gold is still in there but do not know what steps to take to retrive it.

Thank you for you time. If you have any other suggestions I would welcome them.

help us help you.

what type of ceramics did you process & how did you process them.
what was the was the total weight of your ceramics that you are recovering the gold from.

tell us how you started this whole process all the way to your SMB drop.

did you remove base metals ? did you have any silver to remove ? did anything explode during your recovery process ???

now we don't have to guess what you did. youtube is famous for 1/2 how to videos.

1. Urea is a bad choice, search the forum on that. Solid gold to remove nitric is a very good and easy way to fix extra nitric or just don't use too much in the first place which is difficult with cpu's. However this trick only works to a point. If you added 100ml too much nitric you have more work to do. I add like 1-2ml at a time with a small plastic syringe.

2. Search how to test for gold in solution, should always test. You can buy what I'm talking about for $5 on eBay. Search it first.

Welcome to the forum.
Put your Urea to it's destined use...fertilizing the plants.

Yes, to some extent it gets dir of Nitric acid as it fumes the nitric.
NO, it does Not do enough to be of use. You're gold, if any(Test), is still in the solution waiting for you to learn how to properly extract it.

The good posters are trying to help you out of where you are.
You do however need to learn all of it in order to not need to ask the next batch of questions that will arise from this or any other process.

My suggestion, you may not like at first; is to put all the solutions into lightly covered containers, store any solids you have. And begin by reading the welcome section here in the forum.

Yeh right!...is the normal responce but this will get you your answers and lead you onto the path of learning how it's all done. From start to finish, including safety and safely disposing of waste as well as proper washing and melting your gold and other PMs so you will get the MAXIMUM amount possible from material in question.

Good luck learning patience and learning the right way.

B.S.
Hope we see a nice shinny button soon

gs2420 said:

I used Urea to put down the Nitric Acid. I added it after pour in off the liquid from the AR reaction. I have had trouble determaining what is enough to do the trick. While it does not react any more it does disolve. When I added the SMB I got a drop smaller than I expected and saw gold film on the top.

On a second small rum I got not drop at all. I am assuming that the gold is still in there but do not know what steps to take to retrive it.

Thank you for you time. If you have any other suggestions I would welcome them.

Click to expand...

Download the book in my signature line. You can choose the screen readable version or the printer friendly one if you'd prefer a printed copy. You will find the answers to your questions there.

It will teach you how to eliminate excess nitric acid without using urea, as well as how to test for the presence of gold in your solution.

Dave

I'm a little confused about the answers on this thread.

If gold has dropped and there is gold powder floating on the top I'm struggling to see how there is excess Nitric in the solution?

Have I missed something fundamental here because In the AR I've used the gold either drops or redissolves. Period.

spaceships said:

I'm a little confused about the answers on this thread.

If gold has dropped and there is gold powder floating on the top I'm struggling to see how there is excess Nitric in the solution?

Have I missed something fundamental here because In the AR I've used the gold either drops or redissolves. Period.

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I'm just guessing here but, if there is gold powder (gold colored) maybe it never got dissolved in the first place. I have seen gold wires from I.C. chips NOT get dissolved if there was any oil on them. I had to incinerate the material before the acid could get to them.

Just a thought but, from what little bit I know, the precipitated gold doesn't look like gold anymore until it is melted.

He did two different batches.

In the first, his gold reduced, including some that was floating. That was in his first post, and I agree, he didn't have any nitric left in that batch (he got lucky).

In his second, he didn't get a drop, so he probably still has excess nitric.

Dave

No worries Dave, I was referring to the posts referring to his first though. That's where I can't see a Nitric issue as you've agreed.

Yes, Spaceships, I agree there was no nitric in the first batch...

This is not the disscussion on this group of posts.

The new person here asking our help today failed to follow through the correct process to achieve the full potential of results.

What you all seem to be missing alot...is the fact that alot more study is needed to get better answers and results.

Get out of the mess, save everything and point to where he can learn the correct proceedures.

Why is this so difficult?

B.S.

Hey I agree partly.

However I also think that for a guy to successfully process a batch of fingers, refine in AR, and get powder demonstrates a level of knowledge that surpasses the average newbie. What do you think?

O, I agree whole heartidly.
If it's described well enough we understand all of what's been done.

This perticular "Gold remains after SMB drop" however shows alot of novice mistakes that need to be addressed before being able to accurately give help.

I've seen this dissagreement more then once with newbie questions.

I feel most parties giving answers only help alittle and up front but never completely.

2 goals need to be addressed when facing a question. About anything really.

Find a safe solution and give what advice we can so no more questions arise.

Help with the question while addressing the need to completely understand the process.

I only do AP and HCL+bleach because I do not fully know the procedures. More study is needed before I'll even attempt anything else.

B.S.

gs2420 said:

My question is this. I just dropped some gold out of solution using SMB after using AR on ceramic chips. I did not get much to settle as i had hope. But, there is clearly fine gold foating on the top. Are there any suggestions on how the recover this.

Click to expand...

if the comments in this thread are because of "my answer" its an answer for the way i read and interpreted what i read.

i have had floating flakes in my AR after using smb to drop gold with a small bit of free nitric.
the flakes would stay on top, gold would drop and then 90% would redissolve in seconds, leaving a very small amount of "dust"
if i was not watching closely i would have missed the initial drop before it went back into solution.

please "everyone" feel free to openly post if i make any mistakes, i will not be insulted at all !!

this forum and its members are & have been fantastic !! i am here to learn & to help where i can.

Pantherlikher said:

I only do AP and HCL+bleach because I do not fully know the procedures. More study is needed before I'll even attempt anything else.

B.S.

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i have switched to acid peroxide // muriatic+bleach for many reasons

1 fumes are less toxic & easier to scrub. scarry "run away" reactions don't happen like with nitric

2 nitric is sometimes tough to get your hands on unless its a large amount.

3 chlorides are easier to get rid of then nitrates.

4 i can get everything i need within walking distance from my home or my shop.

5 AP forces me to go slower, and i like that.

6 i don't mind getting bleach on my hands

FIrst of I want to thank you all for throwing a line to yet another new guy. I imagine it takes uncommon patience to watch us come and go. I have be at this a while with mixed success with different processes. I did not want subject this group to someoen that wanted all the answers without first taking his own lump. I have gotten a ton of good information so thanks you. I will take better notes, do more research to add to my limited knowledge. I will kick Urea to the curb. If I have more questions I will see if the answer exists here first before I scream for help.

Again thank you,

Greg

thank you, that will be $29.95 LOL (just joking)