Beginner questions and mistakes

[Grelko]

First post and hello everyone,

I couldn't find a good answer to some of the questions I was looking for on the forums, this should cover most of them.
I've been reading the forums for a couple months now.

I started collecting circuitboards+plated jewelry, about 6 months ago. "Approx 300lbs brown boards, 250 lbs green boards which include ~45 motherboards, ram, cd/dvd tv, modem, cell, etc. and maybe 5 lbs plated items. I've been reading all I can about this subject and figured I would give it a try.

I stripped most of the brown boards of value and will be taking them to the scrapyard soon.

From the green boards, I've pulled close to 3 lbs of mixed gold pins, alot still have tiny bit of solder "I read you can boil them in HCL to remove the solder if this is accurate?". My crockpot broke so I scrapped it, but kept the ceramic insert. Could I just place that on my hotplate to boil the pins in, or would a coffee pot work better?

I have a little over 1 lb of ram fingers and 1.5 lbs scrap plating from other boards. I took 54g from the pile of that and put it into AP for 4 days. It barely touched them but, I managed to get some foils and green mask.

I have the chem gloves, a respirator that works for CL, plastic tweezers, HCL, peroxide, CL, borax, and a bunch of other items that are needed for this. I can't find Nitric anywhere, and didn't really want to mess around with electricity or sulfuric too much unless I have to.

I've read and re-read the MSDS on the chemicals I'll be using, and will be starting to read Hokes as soon as I find the link. "Edit - I found the link"

I have approx 1/4 lb of silver contact points that I was going to put into AP then melt after the BMs are off "I am aware that some may contain cadmium", but I can't purify the silver unless I have nitric I believe?

Also, close to 1 lb of the small push buttons that are off TVs etc, that have the dot of silver inside.

5+ lbs of IC chips, almost 2 lbs of processors, green, n/s bridge etc. from the 80s - now. "No IBMs though and I wont tear apart my commodore 64 either"

I have close to 100 lbs of old industrial boards "1950s-60s" that have nice dark gold fingers. I peeled a couple of the fingers off and took them to get the x-ray spec done, and they showed up only having copper, gold, lead in them. The tracing is only copper/lead "no silver or tin?"
Could I just put the fingers into AP and it'll drop the lead/copper, or is there something else I would need to do first to remove the lead?

I peeled around 100g foils by hand while watching movies. Just put those into AP like I would with entire fingers, then proceed like normal right?

If your AP completely evaporates, with foils/powder still in it, can you just re-make it or should you filter it first?

If HCL+CL after approx 24 hours the CL evaporates leaving HCL by itself again, could I just add CL along with more gold, or when the CL evaporates, will the gold drop out as powder or just stay in the solution since there's nothing else in it like copper? Even though when you add more CL, it'll just go back into the solution along with the other gold you added.

So far I just have 3x 1L glass mason jars with plastic lids and maybe 3g dried foils with pieces of green mask in it. 1 jar with almost black AP, 1 light blue distilled water, and 1 almost clear blue distilled water. By the way, should you use distilled water everytime, for rinsing etc. Or, just during the HCL+CL part? I just didn't want to add more contaminants to the solutions since I'm trying to get them out in the first place.


Couple mistakes I've done so far.

Left the coffee pot with AP in it, on my picnic table...in the rain, so there were small pieces of wood, plants and water in it but, the foils came out ok, I still need to do washes anyways.

After cutting the fingers/ICs etc. off of 20 or so ram cards, I ran the cards through an industrial paper shredder because I figured it would save me a couple bucks when I got around to shipping it to a refinery since they grind them up anyways, but decided that I would do it myself instead. Can I just put the 2-5 mm flakes into HCL to remove the solder, then AP to recover PMs from it?

By biggest mistake was to open a brand new HCL "31%, get in there and barely take a small whiff....never again. My left nostril felt like it melted and my left eye didn't stop watering for about 30 minutes.

 

[jason_recliner]

Could I just put the fingers into AP and it'll drop the lead/copper, or is there something else I would need to do first to remove the lead?

Lead is more reactive than copper. And it will dissolve in HCl even without peroxide. The peroxide helps to turn the HCl into Copper(ii) Chloride, which is what dissolves more copper. You've kind of answered your own question here:

Can I just put the 2-5 mm flakes into HCL to remove the solder, then AP to recover PMs from it?

That is what I would do. Solder = tin + lead, which displace the capacity to hold copper in AP solution.

If your AP completely evaporates, with foils/powder still in it, can you just re-make it or should you filter it first?

I would think you can just add some HCl. You'll already have copper chloride crystals, which will dissolve quickly in HCl and start things off again.

I have... a respirator that works for CL...
I've read and re-read the MSDS...
By biggest mistake was to open a brand new HCL "31%, get in there and barely take a small whiff...

Words fail me. I can only say, "!!!!!!!!!!" Which is kind of hard to pronounce.

I wouldn't worry about distilled water as long as you're only working with HCl; a little more chlorine is not going to hurt. When you start working with Nitric, chlorine will dissolve your gold.


Welcome to the forum. It sounds like you have some reading and are on your way and learning from your mistakes.
One warning: Sniff nitric just once and I don't expect we will see you again.

 

[nickvc]

Could I just put the fingers into AP and it'll drop the lead/copper, or is there something else I would need to do first to remove the lead?

Lead is more reactive than copper. And it will dissolve in HCl even without peroxide. The peroxide helps to turn the HCl into Copper(ii) Chloride, which is what dissolves more copper. You've kind of answered your own question here:

Can I just put the 2-5 mm flakes into HCL to remove the solder, then AP to recover PMs from it?

That is what I would do. Solder = tin + lead, which displace the capacity to hold copper in AP solution.

If your AP completely evaporates, with foils/powder still in it, can you just re-make it or should you filter it first?

I would think you can just add some HCl. You'll already have copper chloride crystals, which will dissolve quickly in HCl and start things off again.

I have... a respirator that works for CL...
I've read and re-read the MSDS...
By biggest mistake was to open a brand new HCL "31%, get in there and barely take a small whiff...

Words fail me. I can only say, "!!!!!!!!!!" Which is kind of hard to pronounce.

I wouldn't worry about distilled water as long as you're only working with HCl; a little more chlorine is not going to hurt. When you start working with Nitric, chlorine will dissolve your gold.


Welcome to the forum. It sounds like you have some reading and are on your way and learning from your mistakes.
One warning: Sniff nitric just once and I don't expect we will see you again.

As a word of warning to all members do not sniff any chemicals and certainly don't sniff any reactions taking place, you are aware that chlorine gas is given off in many instances!

 

[artart47]

Hi Grelko !
I good read in the safety section! Where are you located? Hoke's book will give you the understanding that you need to be able to start processing your materials. Do not do any of it inside! You must work outside when there is a breeze blowing from your side to take fumes away from you.
Welcome to our forum and good luck!
artart47

 

[goldsilverpro]

By biggest mistake was to open a brand new HCL "31%, get in there and barely take a small whiff....never again. My left nostril felt like it melted and my left eye didn't stop watering for about 30 minutes.

Many of the chemicals we use have very strong distinctive odors and are often extremely pungent, to say the least. Sometimes, in refining, it is desirable to get a small whiff of a chemical. In refining, we use all of our senses. It is also good to develop a library of smells in your brain, so you will know what is what.

A small whiff could be used to identify an unknown liquid in an unmarked container. It could also be used as a part of a refining process, such as when dropping gold out of aqua regia with a sulfite. When the sulfite combines with the acid, sulfur dioxide gas (SO2) is released and the SO2 is what actually drops the gold. SO2 is quite toxic and is also a very disagreeable chemical to smell. Most gases dissolve in most solutions and they are released at the surface over a period of time. If you leave a glass of beer sitting around for awhile, it will grow "flat" when all the carbonation (CO2 gas) has escaped. Gold will quickly react with any SO2 present in the solution. Therefore, after letting an addition of SMB react for awhile, with a little stirring, apply these 2 general rules, using the Wafting Technique below:

(1) If you can't smell any SO2 coming off the surface of the solution, there is still gold in solution and you need more SMB.
(2) If you can smell SO2, and this smell is about the same strength, say, 5-10 minutes later, all the gold has been dropped. Back this up with a stannous chloride test.

The Wafting Technique is the only safe way to smell a solution or chemical. You can't just stick your nose over the container because the result could be devastating to your well-being. Usually, people learn this the hard way after doing it with the wrong chemicals and it has made an indelible impression on them. Note that Grelko said....never again! In my case, in the late 60s, I stuck my nose over a jug of concentrated aqua ammonia (ammonium hydroxide), which is about 18 times stronger than grocery store ammonia. I immediately was thrown to my knees, literally, and I was out of it for a few minutes. Since then, when I wanted to smell something, I have always "wafted". Never again!

The Wafting Technique:

You basically:
(1) Stand back from the top of the container about 2 feet (this is usually far enough away), with your head higher than the top of the container.
(2) With your hand (preferably gloved - some fumes will chaff your hand and some can even burn you, especially when hot), waft (wave) the fumes from the top of the container towards your nose.
(3) If you can't smell anything, slowly move your nose forward until you can barely smell it.
(4) Memorize that smell.
(5) Rinse off your glove (or, hand).

This technique can also be used when the container is under a fume hood, but you'll probably have to get a little closer before you can first smell it.

In some cases, the unknown liquid is just plain water, in which case your nose would end up right above it. Beware, though, of sulfuric acid, which looks like water and has no smell to speak of.

Lots more info on "wafting":

https://www.google.com/search?q=wafting+technique&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

[Grelko]

Thanks for the replies,

I'm glad I don't need distilled water everytime I rinse because it'll save money.

I'll toss the lead solder into HCL then after it's dissolved, I'll use AP on the rest.

I found the link for Hokes book and will be starting to read it tonight.

Incase anyone wants to know, 31% HCL is like taking the smell of chlorine from an entire swimming pool and condensing it into a shot glass. It's such a very strong vinegar/bleach type of a smell that hits you like a brick, and it stays in your nose a good while.

I'll definately not be "sniffing" the bottle of HCL again, this was before I read the MSDS for it. I just wanted to remember the smell, and I do, I really do.

I'll be sure to use the "Wafting technique" from now on.

 

[maynman1751]

By biggest mistake was to open a brand new HCL "31%, get in there and barely take a small whiff....never again. My left nostril felt like it melted and my left eye didn't stop watering for about 30 minutes.

Many of the chemicals we use have very strong distinctive odors and are often extremely pungent, to say the least. Sometimes, in refining, it is desirable to get a small whiff of a chemical. In refining, we use all of our senses. It is also good to develop a library of smells in your brain, so you will know what is what.

A small whiff could be used to identify an unknown liquid in an unmarked container. It could also be used as a part of a refining process, such as when dropping gold out of aqua regia with a sulfite. When the sulfite combines with the acid, sulfur dioxide gas (SO2) is released and the SO2 is what actually drops the gold. Most gases dissolve in most solutions and they are released at the surface over a period of time. If you leave a glass of beer sitting around for awhile, it will grow "flat" when all the carbonation (CO2 gas) has escaped. Gold will quickly react with any SO2 present in the solution. Therefore, after letting an addition of SMB react for awhile, with a little stirring, apply these 2 general rules, using the Wafting Technique below:

(1) If you can't smell any SO2 coming off the surface of the solution, there is still gold in solution and you need more SMB.
(2) If you can smell SO2, and this smell is about the same strength, say, 5-10 minutes later, all the gold has been dropped. Back this up with a stannous chloride test.

The Wafting Technique is the only safe way to smell a solution or chemical. You can't just stick your nose over the container because the result could be devastating to your well-being. Usually, people learn this the hard way after doing it with the wrong chemicals and it has made an indelible impression on them. Note that Grelko said....never again! In my case, in the late 60s, I stuck my nose over a jug of concentrated aqua ammonia (ammonium hydroxide), which is about 18 times stronger than grocery store ammonia. I immediately was thrown to my knees, literally, and I was out of it for a few minutes. Since then, when I wanted to smell something, I have always "wafted". Never again!

The Wafting Technique:

You basically:
(1) Stand back from the top of the container about 2 feet (this is usually far enough away), with your head higher than the top of the container.
(2) With your hand (preferably gloved - some fumes will chaff your hand and some can even burn you, especially when hot), waft (wave) the fumes from the top of the container towards your nose.
(3) If you can't smell anything, slowly move your nose forward until you can barely smell it.
(4) Memorize that smell.
(5) Rinse off your glove (or, hand).

This technique can also be used when the container is under a fume hood, but you'll probably have to get a little closer before you can first smell it.

In some cases, the unknown liquid is just plain water, in which case your nose would end up right on it. Beware, though, of sulfuric acid, which looks like water and has no smell to speak of.

Lots more info on "wafting":

https://www.google.com/search?q=wafting+technique&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Thank You Chris for that great explanation.......as always!!!! 8)

 

[jason_recliner]

Incase anyone wants to know, 31% HCL is like taking the smell of chlorine from an entire swimming pool and condensing it into a shot glass. It's such a very strong vinegar/bleach type of a smell that hits you like a brick, and it stays in your nose a good while.

I'll definately not be "sniffing" the bottle of HCL again, this was before I read the MSDS for it. I just wanted to remember the smell, and I do, I really do.

I'll be sure to use the "Wafting technique" from now on.

Stomach acid is roughly half a percent HCl. Consider 60 people simultaneously vomiting out your nose. :shock:

 

[Anonymous]

Incase anyone wants to know, 31% HCL is like taking the smell of chlorine from an entire swimming pool and condensing it into a shot glass. It's such a very strong vinegar/bleach type of a smell that hits you like a brick, and it stays in your nose a good while.

I'll definately not be "sniffing" the bottle of HCL again, this was before I read the MSDS for it. I just wanted to remember the smell, and I do, I really do.

I'll be sure to use the "Wafting technique" from now on.

Stomach acid is roughly half a percent HCl. Consider 60 people simultaneously vomiting out your nose. :shock:

Jason did you have to ? 8) 8)

 

[Pantherlikher]

Very illustrative description of a bad "waft" Jason...

However, I'm still debating on which would be worse...
Full strength HCL+ bleach fumes or your description of the smell...

B.S.

 

[MrMylar]

For all of those and us that are still living that still have no health issues (breathing to say the least) have been taught either on their own, but most likely through professionals, like here on this forum. I mentioned this before and it seems to escape the minds of some, yet throws in the fear of breathing problems or even worse. The best thing you can do is be prepared to deal with what you're doing. The WORST thing you can do is to NOT know what your chemicals/gases smell like. That WILL be your problem at that point.

No# 1 thing I have learned from this forum is that you need to know the SMELL of your chemicals/gases, but do NOT BREATHE them. If you are in a confined space, then you NEED a fume hood and probably a mask too. But, for the sake of the argument, if you're outside and you're away from the up/down draft of the wind blowing the fumes/gases, you should be fine.

No# 2. Let's say you're refining and you don't want to know what your chemicals smell like (NOT BREATHE THEM.. SMELL THEM), how would you even know if you're using too much of any chemical? How would you know if you're not even doing any refining, but a neighbor down the street, block or mile away doing their refining with the same chemicals is coming from their location/vicinity and not yours? If you don't know if your chemicals are too strong or not, then you need not bother refining because it's something you must know.

Again, Smell and NOT breathe.

No# 3. Nitric acid for instance has a smell of chlorine, or bleach, according to my nose senses, and if I'm working with nitric acid, and if any wind blows in any direction I'm in, I know if the fumes/gases are coming my way. The same with dropping Sodium Meta Bisulfite. You can smell that stuff and you should know exactly what it is. If not, don't bother using it.

A good tip anyone can use when doing chemical refining outside is to

* make sure you're not doing it on a windy day
* use an in-scent or burn a piece of wood close, but not directly near your work area. The reason you would do this is that if you can smell what you're burning, then that means the wind is blowing your way and so are the fumes/gases. If that happens, move to another location. The point is to not smell the smoke of what you're burning.

Fumes and gases are totally different in many aspects, but the principle will still stand true if you did them both outside. Smoke rises more than fumes, and many fumes and gases drop to the ground. Either way, if you smell what you're burning from a distance, then chances are the fumes/gases are coming your way too.

No# 4. The best way to even see the fumes/gases outside is at night, for the most part. Have the proper lighting and keep at a distance and you can actually see the gases and fumes follow in a direction and even when they change directions, you'll be able to see it before it gets close to you. I do it myself all the time. I'm not saying work outside in the dark, but I do because I have the proper lighting and I can see the gases and fumes from at least 15ft+ away from the source, and then I bail another direction when I can actually see the wind carrying it my way.

The moral of my reply is to let people know that breathing any of the fumes and chemicals we deal with is dangerous, but smelling them is far less, and there is a difference in both. Know what you're working with.

Forwhat I do work with, no matter the combination anyone put them in, I know what they are so far. Even though one may overpower the other, I know what I'm smelling... and not breathing.

And to close, if you smell anything you're working with, chemicals, incineration, or whatever, get into FRESH AIR IMMEDIATELY!

Hope that helps!

 

[Grelko]

No# 1 thing I have learned from this forum is that you need to know the SMELL of your chemicals/gases, but do NOT BREATHE them.

* use an in-scent or burn a piece of wood close, but not directly near your work area. The reason you would do this is that if you can smell what you're burning, then that means the wind is blowing your way and so are the fumes/gases. If that happens, move to another location. The point is to not smell the smoke of what you're burning.
[/b]

Very nice explanation MrMylar,

I'll have to try this,

Even if you are working out in the woods, some trees or plants have a stronger odor if you crumble up some leaves that you could set near the work area, especially things like certain types of pine trees or wild garlic. Just watch out for poison ivy and some others.

Hopefully people understand that most of the chemicals we use are very dangerous and if you know what their particular scent is, you will be aware of which ones they are when they are in your presence.

"small story"
Over the years I've come to know the smell of natural gas. On a few different occasions, I've found that my neighbors furnace was leaking because they were wondering why their heating bill was high. I found that my hot water heater had a loose fitting and was leaking. Another time the stove was turned on but the flame wasn't, and over at my friends house, their stove was leaking and I just so happened to be there and notice the gas smell before someone lit a cigarette which could have been horrible. Besides of many other smells, like my previous vehicle had a gasoline leak.

Some smells are VERY noticable, like burning plastic for example and, you should know which is which and hopefully know what to do in certain situations.

If you don't know what a certain smell is, it might be best to leave that area and ask someone to help, especially if it is very pungent odor.

Remember to smell, and don't breathe it because it may be toxic.

 

[Anonymous]

For all of those and us that are still living that still have no health issues (breathing to say the least) have been taught either on their own, but most likely through professionals, like here on this forum. I mentioned this before and it seems to escape the minds of some, yet throws in the fear of breathing problems or even worse. The best thing you can do is be prepared to deal with what you're doing. The WORST thing you can do is to NOT know what your chemicals/gases smell like. That WILL be your problem at that point.

OK I can live with this point. Knowledge is good and can be a life saver.

No# 1 thing I have learned from this forum is that you need to know the SMELL of your chemicals/gases, but do NOT BREATHE them. If you are in a confined space, then you NEED a fume hood and probably a mask too. But, for the sake of the argument, if you're outside and you're away from the up/down draft of the wind blowing the fumes/gases, you should be fine.

I don't advocate refining outside unless you live on a ranch with no neighbours but let's run with this for the time being.

No# 2. Let's say you're refining and you don't want to know what your chemicals smell like (NOT BREATHE THEM.. SMELL THEM), how would you even know if you're using too much of any chemical? How would you know if you're not even doing any refining, but a neighbor down the street, block or mile away doing their refining with the same chemicals is coming from their location/vicinity and not yours? If you don't know if your chemicals are too strong or not, then you need not bother refining because it's something you must know.

Again, Smell and NOT breathe.

No# 3. Nitric acid for instance has a smell of chlorine, or bleach, according to my nose senses, and if I'm working with nitric acid, and if any wind blows in any direction I'm in, I know if the fumes/gases are coming my way. The same with dropping Sodium Meta Bisulfite. You can smell that stuff and you should know exactly what it is. If not, don't bother using it.

Really? I don't agree at all. Nitric doesn't smell anything like Chlorine to me but then again we all have different noses. SMB smells like you had a bit of sick in your mouth.

A good tip anyone can use when doing chemical refining outside is to

* make sure you're not doing it on a windy day
* use an in-scent or burn a piece of wood close, but not directly near your work area. The reason you would do this is that if you can smell what you're burning, then that means the wind is blowing your way and so are the fumes/gases. If that happens, move to another location. The point is to not smell the smoke of what you're burning.

A little rustic in approach however I get the point.

Fumes and gases are totally different in many aspects, but the principle will still stand true if you did them both outside. Smoke rises more than fumes, and many fumes and gases drop to the ground. Either way, if you smell what you're burning from a distance, then chances are the fumes/gases are coming your way too.

Do your homework on the gases you are producing and learn which rise and which are dense enough to fall.

No# 4. The best way to even see the fumes/gases outside is at night, for the most part. Have the proper lighting and keep at a distance and you can actually see the gases and fumes follow in a direction and even when they change directions, you'll be able to see it before it gets close to you. I do it myself all the time. I'm not saying work outside in the dark, but I do because I have the proper lighting and I can see the gases and fumes from at least 15ft+ away from the source, and then I bail another direction when I can actually see the wind carrying it my way.

Actually this is incorrect. The bloom you see with Nox is only a small part of the actual cloud of gases produced. I'm really "anti" the whole gung ho refine outside approach because it doesn't care about collateral damage.

The moral of my reply is to let people know that breathing any of the fumes and chemicals we deal with is dangerous, but smelling them is far less, and there is a difference in both. Know what you're working with.

Yep I agree completely, get to know what you are dealing with.

Forwhat I do work with, no matter the combination anyone put them in, I know what they are so far. Even though one may overpower the other, I know what I'm smelling... and not breathing.

And to close, if you smell anything you're working with, chemicals, incineration, or whatever, get into FRESH AIR IMMEDIATELY!

Again this is spot on. I would caveat al this with don't refine outside if possible. Get set up properly if you can. Mylar meant his post in the best possible way and I respect that. I have merely added my own thoughts.

Hope that helps!

 

[AugieDoggie]

Thanks for the replies,

I'm glad I don't need distilled water everytime I rinse because it'll save money.

For my distilled water, I collect from my air-conditioner evap line. I use a clean jug and collect it every few days.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Grelko]

For my distilled water, I collect from my air-conditioner evap line. I use a clean jug and collect it every few days.
Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the info,

I happened to read something like this in another thread and was wondering if you have the line sealed somehow to keep out the dust in the air, or particles from rain? Other than that, it would work great. Maybe attach a long tube to the end somehow and have it drip directly into a sealed bucket?

 

[Grelko]

I'm checking to see if I'm doing this properly so far.

I took 3 ounces of fully gold plated connector pins from the 1960s-70s, and placed them into a mason jar with a plastic lid that Isn't on tight. I used 12 ounces of HCL 31.45% and 12 ounces of 3% hydrogen peroxide (ratio 1-1) I probably should have checked here first, but the 1-1 ratio is off of Moose Scrapper's video on youtube.

The large amount of peroxide may put gold into solution but, I can always check with stannous anytime, and with all of the base metals, it should just push the gold back out anyways.

I don't have a bubbler yet so this will take alot longer than it should (I'm hoping to get a bubbler soon). So far It's been four days and I can see alot of tiny gold flakes floating around when I stir it with a plastic spoon, since I don't have a glass rod. The solution is slowly starting to look like it's getting thicker and darker green.

The pins are barely magnetic when using a hard drive magnet so I think they might be a copper base with nickel or zinc.

After the last few days, the pins are starting to look like a mix between copper and rust color, so hopefully this is working correctly.

This shouldn't take quite as long as it would with brand new pins because alot of them got scratched up when I was pulling them out of the black plastic connectors. I used a heat gun to warm up the plastic a bit, and the pins came right out.


My main question is, do I wait until the pins are fully dissolved, then filter the solution and do alternating hot water, hot HCL washes, or filter it out when it looks like all the plating is off of the pins?

Also, is using 12 ounces of HCL and peroxide enough for 3 ounces of pins?

I know you add acid to water, but I wasn't sure about acid and peroxide, so I added the peroxide to the acid very slowly, which seemed to bubble a tiny bit.

 

[shmandi]

You have been on the forum for some time now. So my advice is to forget all those yt videos and other information. Search this forum to find correct information.
1:1 ratio is way too much H2O2. Peroxide is used just to start reaction. So best way is to add it in small amounts and observe reaction. And keep in mind that reaction with AP is not very volatile.

 

[jason_recliner]

I took 3 ounces of fully gold plated connector pins from the 1960s-70s, and placed them into a mason jar with a plastic lid that Isn't on tight. I used 12 ounces of HCL 31.45% and 12 ounces of 3% hydrogen peroxide (ratio 1-1) I probably should have checked here first, but the 1-1 ratio is off of Moose Scrapper's video on youtube.

Yeah it is. Sounds like a ratio for scrapping moose, rather than gold parts. Just a splash of H2O2 will get it started. On pins, it will be slow. A week or two.

My main question is, do I wait until the pins are fully dissolved, then filter the solution and do alternating hot water, hot HCL washes, or filter it out when it looks like all the plating is off of the pins?

You have read enough to realise you're dissolving half your gold with so much peroxide, and that it's going to cement. But it will cement back onto anything solid that's higher in reactivity (tin, copper, iron, nickel, etc). So you will keep going until ALL the pins are gone. You will be left with fine gold flakes AND fine black/brown gold powder. Less H2O2, and you'd just have gold flakes.

 

[Palladium]

I wish people wouldn't be so quick to judge youtube. I find youtube to be a very resourceful tool for teaching and learning. Just like any information we learn as humans we have to be able to judge the credibility of the information before we take it as fact. If you don't have the mental capacity to judge creditable information from uncreditable information then even if you were presented with a noble prize winning answer you wouldn't would know it because you mind can't distinguish fact and fiction. It doesn't mean the platform as a whole is bad. Ebay comes to mind! It's the failure of the individual, not the technology.

 

[MrMylar]

You have read enough to realise you're dissolving half your gold with so much peroxide, and that it's going to cement. But it will cement back onto anything solid that's higher in reactivity (tin, copper, iron, nickel, etc). So you will keep going until ALL the pins are gone. You will be left with fine gold flakes AND fine black/brown gold powder. Less H2O2, and you'd just have gold flakes.

If he has that much peroxide, I'm almost certain there will be no gold flakes at all once it's all said and done. His gold is going to be completely dissolved into the solution, and definitely so if he leaves them in that solution for a week or longer.

For 1), you don't use AP to get the gold off of pins. You use a sulfuric cell for that.
2) all it took was just 1 cap full of peroxide to get it going and working along with some stirring every few hours.

If you don't have access to a sulfuric cell and you want to get your gold off the pins, then the best way and fastest way I know is to make your Aqua Regia (Muriatic Acid + Chlorine/bleach) and then add 50% of water to the solution and put it on heat. What will happen is that while you're trying to evaporate all the water you put in the beaker, the ar will be loosening off the gold and when you stir the solution you'll see your gold floating around.

To remove the gold really fast, you can simply make the AR and add it to medium heat for 1 hour, and then after that, add the 50% volume of water to the solution and turn the heat on high. Most of your gold will flake off but remember, as you evaporate the water out, you're making the solution more concentrated and it will eventually dissolve the gold if you let the solution get to its initial volume level without the water added.

The best thing to do after you see plenty of gold flakes swirling around in the solution is to filter the solution to capture all the gold, and then place the solution back in the beaker and star it again until all your gold is flaked off.

The key is adding the water. The water will hold the AR from actually dissolving the gold, but it will be strong enough to start dissolving some of the base metals. It works for me and that's how I do my fiber pinless cpu's.

This method was adopted by myself by mistake. I made AR to dissolve the pads on the pinless cpus, and when I covered it with my watch glass it started raining. The water started filling in my beaker from going over the top of the watch glass, and when I put it on heat to evaporate the water out, that when I saw what looked like most of the cpus were stripped. From then, I started testing other material that had fingers and pads using this method and the results are the same.

You can take fingers from RAM sticks and use this method and within hours or so, you'll have ALL the gold flaked off the fingers, vs waiting days for it to complete.

The key trick I found out is to stand the items up in the beaker where they won't fall down. Doing it this way insures that your gold will flake away and not be stuck onto other pieces in the solution.

Hope that helps!