Can help me for reduce PD dmg...

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Smoking loss is very real. If you let it burn in open container, losses in our hands were as high as 3-7% (in situ formed Pd is so light that slightest air turbulence catch it and carry it away). I don´t know if moistening with water help to somewhat pack it so it does not smoke that badly, never tried to melt it in open container in bulk wet or dry. I did damp and dry batches, on large scale in closed system. It can be managed, but you need to be prepared for big flame show :) My favourite way is bigger graphite crucible in induction furnance, where you can very precisely monitor the temperature - as graphite conducts heat pretty well.

And also never forget to set the fumes on fire. These are one of the nastiest fumes I ever encountered. Awful, nauseating, acrid, burnt and persistent smell, it gets onto your tongue and you can even taste that atrocity, for very decent time. I don´t know what is inside them, but as the article points out, HCN can indeed be present - and by the smell (I unfortunately whiffed them few times doing this) I can say it can have cyanide hint to it - like acrid, irritating, little chlorine-like. But I cannot say it for sure. Presence of cyanide can be tested if little bit of the fumes is contained (eg to the PET bottle) and then bubbled through solution containing dissolved iron - blue colour is developed (prussian blue test).

Take the crucible to like 350-400°C and let the heat slowly crawl through the bulk of the material inside. It start to burn on the edges, then going deeper to the center. I usually cover the top of the crucible with two layers of refractory wool and weigh it down so there are no gaps between crucible and wool. Any gaseous product arising would need to pass through the wool - so if any Pd is carried in smoke as ultrafine particles, they will catch on the wool similarly as on the filter paper.

It is very obvious if you are loosing something. When you are done, you can clearly see greyish-purplish-greenish oxidized surface of the wool covered with ultrafine Pd. By peeling the wool layer by layer you see how deep it has penetrated - with bigger batches, or less controlled heating, one 2 cm layer of wool sometimes isn´t enough and you will clearly see how the top of the wool darkens :) And that dark stain cannot be burnt away with torch - carbon residue will burn. I also tested this with XRF and Pd indeed crawled this distance through the wool (at least 2 centimeters, batch of ca 100 g, nearly dry, in ca 200-300ml graphite crucible, steadily heated in induction to 350-400 °C on the surface of graphite - till fumes production ceased).

As professional, Lou pointed many good suggestions on how to convert these with minimal losses - by reducing it with hydrogen in tube furnance or similar device. I planned to build one low pressure apparatus precisely for this chore - reduction of platinum and palladium salts to metals, recently acquired some parts, hydrogen cylinder... But everything gone south when I lost my partner and all of the equipent and premises with him :/

Second possibility is to do it wet, by reducing with zinc directly, altough I don´t know how the free oxime would behave. My idea was to dump the complex into basic solution, where it can possibly disintegrate to Pd hydroxide and deprotonated oxime double salt... But I don´t know how it would go in real life conditions. These complexes are fairly stable.
 
I do not understand why people are having so much Pd-DMG. It's used for analysis, not bulk recovery, and even then, it's really only useful for analysis out of chloride solutions of Pd. I couldn't imagine having ounces of it in a year of using it analytically that I would want to burn. In any event, rather than burning it, which is lossy, stinky, I have, when it comes in the door found it easiest to just dissolve the Pd DMG complex in hot HCl/H2O2, evaporate that down and it can be reduced with formate. For some reason, we found that HCl/H2O2 (strong solution HCl with peroxide added drop wise) seems to be better than refluxing it with aqua regia.
 
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I thought about a crucible lid for my gas furnace a few times, but I didn't expect the loses to be noticeable thru evaporation rather oxidation. Perhaps it is a good idea.

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Yes I did.
 
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I do not understand why people are having so much Pd-DMG. It's used for analysis, not bulk recovery, and even then, it's really only useful for analysis out of chloride solutions of Pd. I couldn't imagine having ounces of it in a year of using it analytically that I would want to burn. In any event, rather than burning it, which is lossy, stinky, I have, when it comes in the door found it easiest to just dissolve the Pd DMG complex in hot HCl/H2O2, evaporate that down and it can be reduced with formate. For some reason, we found that HCl/H2O2 (strong solution HCl with peroxide added drop wise) seems to be better than refluxing it with aqua regia.

It is the best method, without a doubt, in addition to not having losses because the reduction with formate is quantitative and if we take the precaution of washing the Pd-DMG until there is no Cl, the palladium obtained is very pure.
 
I do not understand why people are having so much Pd-DMG. It's used for analysis, not bulk recovery, and even then, it's really only useful for analysis out of chloride solutions of Pd. I couldn't imagine having ounces of it in a year of using it analytically that I would want to burn. In any event, rather than burning it, which is lossy, stinky, I have, when it comes in the door found it easiest to just dissolve the Pd DMG complex in hot HCl/H2O2, evaporate that down and it can be reduced with formate. For some reason, we found that HCl/H2O2 (strong solution HCl with peroxide added drop wise) seems to be better than refluxing it with aqua regia.
I used to produce quite a bit of it, because of processing low grade AuPd plated pins. With concentrations of like 0,5g/L in spent AR solution, I just found the DMG recovery to be finite and effective. Later I switched to mutual gold+palladium precipitation on copper, which worked allright and obviated DMG completely.
This is nice invention since I tried AR dissolving and also ammonia dissolving and neither one was effective enough to be considered better, compared to controlled burning. As I smelted PtPd/ceramic materials on daily basis, I always added that bottom piece of mineral wool (covering the crucible during PdDMG burning) with evaporated Pd to the melt to quantitatively recover it. By doing this my recovery (twice I measured on about 1ozt batch) was around 98,5-99,5%. Without adding the wool, it dropped by few %.

Thank you for the advice :)
 
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