Chem question

Walcam

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I have noticed that in many of the formulas listed the strength of HCl is 31% or higher, but in the hardwarestore in DK where i buy, we cant get it higher than 30%. will this be strong enough?

Also hydrogenperoxide, i managed to get from the pharmacy at 10% strength, but most formulas list it at 3%
So should i dilute it to 3% or can i use it at 10% ?

Last question regarding chems for now.
I bought some Campden tablets for my winemaking projects, and now i am unsure if it is the same as SMB?
Campden is Sodium metabisulfite, but smb is sulfate? or am i mistaken?
 

anachronism

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All your questions are OK.

Yes 30% HCl is fine.

3% H2O2 is fine you just need a little more of it. Edit- 10% is also fine just use less.

Campden tablets are also fine- I started out using those. Your local beer brewing shop will sell pots of SMB though so check that out.

Jon
 

FrugalRefiner

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Walcam said:
Campden is Sodium metabisulfite, but smb is sulfate? or am i mistaken?
Yes, you are mistaken. SMB is sodium metabisulfite.

Dave
 

prospector_pete

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the smb i buy from myu chemical supplier spells it metabisulphite . is that ok or is there a difference between metabisulphite and metabisulfite
 

butcher

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.
There no difference between sodium metabisulphite and sodium metabisulfite.
the only difference is just the spelling the different countries use.

The ending of the chemical names are important to indicate the oxidation state of the very different salts of sulfuric (ic) acid, endings in the name such as (ide) sulfide S2-, (ite) SO22-, or (ate) SO42-.
 

Harv94

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Can I use fcc grade smb or do I have to use acs grade new user much more questions about refining and recovery to come I’ve already downloaded hokes and read it once. I’m planning on doing the test experiments. I’m waiting on some stannous to arrive and more equipment. I’ve did a lot of research on here and elsewhere. I was in the process of the AP method on a small amount of fingers, got as far as flakes in the filters and researched some more then I realized how much more I needed to learn. I put the pieces with gold left in a container, then put all the filters in a separate container, and the solution in a bleach bottle that I rinsed out multiple times then let dry. I labeled everything and put it all in plastic catch trays in case something happened while I’m searching this forum etc. this is my first post but I’ve already learnt alot from this forum so thanks to all of you guys for the valuable information you’ve posted. Any tips on my next steps or the AP process in general will be greatly appreciated I didn’t know how to start a new thread so maybe this will be seen by someone who can help.
 

Martijn

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FCC grade will do fine. as said earlier, local beer-store sulphite will do, don't worry too much about that.

Here are some links to help you:
Welcome to all newbies:

Help where do I learn these skills? : Dealing with waste can also be found here.

Acid Peroxide information thread:

Hoke's book updated. Screen readable version from Frugal refiners signature:

Start small, small mistakes, small losses, small mess to clean up. Have a plan before you jump in, ask here first before attempting anything.

Have fun. Be safe.
Martijn.
 

Harv94

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Thanks for the information I am in the process of separating out everything I have as well as learning what is what is what and what metals are present in each component. This forum has helped me tremendously!!!!
 

nickvc

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Harv94 I think you have started your journey in an admirable fashion, knowing when to stop messing with chemicals and reactions you do not understand is that first step.reading and researching will prepare you for the next steps allowing you to know what to expect and why , the refining is the easy part the recovery the art that most struggle with at first.
Well done and keep us up to date when you start to recover or refine even post your thoughts and ideas about those next steps and help will be on hand if anyone sees a problem.
 

Harv94

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Thanks I’m waiting on my test tubes, stannous, smb and more glassware to be delivered. I’ll post my progress and or problems as I go through the test in Hokes. Im not expecting to be melting my first button in the near future nor get rich off of ewaste. Most of the computer’s ive acquired were five dollars or free. I bought 60-75 cell phones and 10-15 tablets for 20 dollars about 1/4 them were old Nokia’s. I have a lot of material to work with but I don’t plan on wasting it, now if I can just remember half of what I’ve read the past few months I’ll be fine😂
 

FrugalRefiner

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I've posted this before, but it's been a while.

I call it the "Stages of Learning".

At first, you read a little and it seems to be simple and make sense.

As you read more, you start to see other processes, and conflicting information. There's so much new information, it can get very confusing.

As you continue, you're able to sort out the conflicting information, and it starts to make sense.

After much study you'll start to feel like you're really getting a handle on it all. You can answer most questions on the forum.

Then you read a post from Lou, and you realize how much you still don't know.

Dave
 

Harv94

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The conflicting information has been the most confusing part. Before I found this amazing forum my plan was to use the AP method then Aqua Regia but then I read (I think lazersteve posted it somewhere) that for beginners AP then muriatic and bleach is best. Any thoughts on that?
 

FrugalRefiner

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The most common problem beginners have with aqua regia is that they use way too much nitric acid. Then they struggle to eliminate the excess. The advantage of using HCl (muriatic) and bleach is that if they overuse the bleach all they have to do is wait and the excess will gas off on its own.

But it's only suitable for very thin gold like foils from circuit boards or powders. Every process has its advantages and disadvantages.

Dave
 

Palladium

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FrugalRefiner said:
Then you read a post from Lou, and you realize how much you still don't know.

Dave

Bingo! Me and you both! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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