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goldsilverpro

In Remembrance
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To me, the choice of chemical proof gloves is very important. I've probably tried every type of glove there is and have come up with favorites. The gloves I like best cost about $7 a pair. They are common and are mainly available at good hardware stores and farm stores. They are usually 2 tone green in color and have a white cloth lining. I have also seen 2 tone blue ones. The lining is important, because you don't sweat like you do with the black gloves. These gloves are rougher on the finger area, so they won't slip as easy. They are more durable than the common, unlined black variety that most of you use. When new, they are fairly stiff but loosen up quickly. They come in sizes. You want them a little loose. If you want them off quickly, you simply shake them off. The best ones, although a little more expensive, are called anhydrous ammonia gloves and are available in farm stores.

Whatever gloves you use, rinse off any strong sulfuric that is on them. If allowed to remain, it will damage them. Turn up the cuffs on your gloves an inch or so. This catches the solution from your gloves and prevents it from running onto your arms. If the gloves get wet, from solution, on the inside, rinse them well, inside and out, uncuff them, and hang each one to dry on something like over the tip of a broom handle, stood vertically. Don't handle sharp parts with your gloves, such as some types of pins and the legs on IC's. You'll put holes in the gloves and make them worthless, and dangerous, for working around solutions. If you must handle sharp parts with gloves, do it loosely and gently.

I also keep a pair of long, heavy, shoulder length, black unlined gloves for working around solutions that require putting my hands and arms into.
 
Could you post a picture ?

Personnaly, I use Nitrile Gloves. There are really chemical resistant, even to acetone and strongs acids/bases. There are percing resistant wich is also very important ;)
I will try to post a pic.
 
Here's the ones I use. They are green but don't look it in the photo. They are also nitrile. They are available cheaper than these in the ad. Make sure they are cloth lined. The ad doesn't say but I'm sure these are lined.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1335032
 
goldsilverpro said:
Here's the ones I use. They are green but don't look it in the photo. They are also nitrile. They are available cheaper than these in the ad. Make sure they are cloth lined. The ad doesn't say but I'm sure these are lined.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1335032

I bet I had 300 pairs of these when I worked on a Workover Rig years ago. They are great, not for small stuff but they are bullet proof had them ripped from my hands a few times on the rigs. I wore Nitrils underneath them at times for small stuff like turning a screw, but of course if you contaiminate the Nitril don't stick it back in the big gloves....ouch.
 
Thank you for the glove info!
I've been reading and hearing a lot about nano particals. Are we creating particles so small in boiling mist, fumes etc. that they might be readily absorbed through our skin creating heavy metal problems in our systems over time?
I've had basil cell skin cancer problems attributed to arsenic exposure as a child, grew up in an area with very high levels.It sometimes takes a long time to feel the effects or things we do.
The University of Texas offers informal classes, have you ever considered teaching, I very often meet people that want to learn refining but I'm not qualified.

Thanks
Wayne
 
Here is a sheet I found showing chemical resistivity with Latex versus Nitrile Gloves. I think for what we use Latex is only slightly better and both overall are not that good for the acids. What now?[/url]
 

Attachments

  • ChemChartLatexNitrile.pdf
    2.1 MB
Kory,

Great glove chart! Looks to me like you would get the best protection with the gloves listed if you put a NeoPro glove on over a normal latex glove.

You most likely are better off sticking with the heavier sleeved gloves for maximum protection.

Here's the latex+neopro combined protection summary for the common chemicals used by hobbyist refiners based on Kory's chart:

Concentrated Hydrochloric : Good
Sulfuric Acid : NBT > 120 minutes break thru time
Nitric Acid 50% : NBT > 120 minutes break thru time
Silver Nitriate : Excellent
Urea : Excellent
Glycerin : Excellent
Hydrogen Peroxide 30% : Good
Chlorine : Not Recommended
Bleach : Fair
Sodium Hydroxide 50% : Excellent
Ferric Chloride : Excellent
Sodium Chloride : Excellent
Oxalic Acid : Excellent
Ammonium Hydroxide : Excellent
Mercury : Excellent
Sodium Nitrate : NBT > 120 minutes breakthru time

Good stuff!

Steve
 
just bought 6 pairs for $3.

Chemical Resistant Gloves Lots of 6 Chemical Handling. Military Grade!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA.....TQ:US:1123

About the 4th time she's sold them, so if you need a pair keep your eyes on her. They are US Military NBC (Nuclear, Biological, Chemical) approved, made of BUTYL RUBBER, and supposed to last a a full (24 hr) 14 days soaking in acid. Plus the cotton gloves used as a lining keep your hands dry and are great for handling your finished gold bars. They should last me many years. Just hope they are not too bulky, should arrive in a few days. I'll post a follow up.
 
Butyl gloves are pretty good quality and good resistance. I don't know where the 14 day figure comes from though--there's no glove that'll last 14 days in any acid. I wear nitrile gloves with kevlar underliners in the laboratory. If it's something really bad like HF, that's when the Niton gloves come out.
 
ya I don't know about the 14 days either, it was listed on ebay as a selling point. they said it was on the paper that comes with the gloves. Something about the way the Govt rates these gloves I guess. We shall see.
 
Just a follow up on the gloves I bought for anyone interested. I really smiled when I opened the package. I recieved 6 pairs of military surplus gloves. I ordered 3 med and 3 large. The medium fit my hand, but will not sling off. The large gloves fit slightly loose, but sling off the way I like. I would call my hand large, It's not a piano players hand by no means.

A side note: one pair of the gloves was missing the cotton gloves. I e-mailed the seller about it, we shall see what she does. And the 14 day thing, it says on the tag "With proper care, your gloves are capable of providing protection for at least 14 days of continuous use." Remember, they were field issue for soldiers in the event that someone launched a nucluar, biological, or chemical attack on them. Imagine your world was ending and these were your only hope to keep your hands.

All in all, an excellent buy for $3 If you want a pair keep a eye on her. She sells them regularly at that price. :D
 
I know of these gloves They are sold by army surplus stores, the three dollars for 6 pairs is a good price close to what I paid for a whole case...72 pairs...$28.00 A life time supply, I use them for the toilet as well.. ICKEY BLAH...chem gloves 1.jpg
 
Mark,
I have used those gloves and they are good but they only hold up about 10 minutes after being exposed to concentrated sulfuric. If anyone knows of a good glove for concentrated sulfuric I would be interested.
 
Thougt I would toss in my 2 cents. Latex in general is not a very good chemically resistant glove, especially if you buy them off the local retail rack, the same goes for nitrile. Be careful. I've used latex and nitrile from glove suppliers and ones purchased via retail. The retail gloves always feel and look thinner. I can see my fingers through them after pulling them on. I always double glove so retail ones don't worry me since they are not my first line of defense. Here is a link to ansell gloves that list the rating of chemical resistant gloves they provide and material.
http://www.ansellpro.com/download/Ansell_7thEditionChemicalResistanceGuide.pdf

I use a nitrile glove or latex glove as an inner liner topped by a nitrile glove. I personally do not like powdered gloves, drys out my hands. And if you have gloves on for awhile your hands sweat and the powder turns to muck. Clothed line gloves are also a concern since the cloth will absorb the chemical.

Lastly, I have read posts on the forum of people using oxalic acid. I dont know about anywhere else in the world but in the US you can get it via Bar Keepers Friend in any grocery store. Search the web for it, go to their website, and you can find the MSDS via the Contact US link.
Don
 

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