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HI Steve,

I was actually refering to the top lid. I can easily remove the bottom, but don't have a torch to remove the top lib.

So, I remove the bottom, leave the top. I'm assuming after some time the solder holding the top lid is removed, and then it's a good idea to remove the top lid from the mix. Is this correct?

will the disolved tungsten copper alloy cause an issue with the cleaning stage? or with the AP process? How would you wash the gold with the tungsten alloy? same as usual (hot HCl and water)?
 
The top lids can be stripped using the sulfuric cell avoiding the problems associated with attempting to dissolve it.

Tungsten forms a very finely divided yellow green powder that is very hard to filter and also hard to dissolve.

tungsten_oxide.jpg


The braze around the top lid is a gold alloy. Tungsten can be dissolved using 35% hydrogen peroxide.

Steve
 
I'm still confused.

Let me put this in another way.What if I have no means to remove the top lid. How would I process the Pentium pro cpus?

HI ehtelmec,

Any update with your procesing of the cpus?
 
hey strangers.. long time, I know... anyways, I'm also having a similar problem with the AP thing.. I suspect I added way too much H2O2 to the solution and may have dissolved most if not all of the gold on my pins (I'm doing a batch that is in the range of about ten pounds).. If the gold has taken up into solution.. can I drop it out by adding a piece of pure copper flashing I have from the machine shop I work in?.. I have probably a hundred pounds of these pins to work with at this point, so this is a long term deal, obviously.. If I haven't muggled up this batch I'd be happy, but not entirely disheartened if I had to stop now and start all over.. although my hands are getting very calloused and I'm getting a touch of carpal tunnel from pulling pins out of these dang plastic connector housings..

on a side note (sorry if this is too off-topic)..I found this picture on Ebay of a very similar connector to what I have. the pins are quite tedious to remove from these plastic housings. The easiest solution I've found is to pull them one at a time with a pair of dikes or needle-nose pliers.. any suggestions, or tools that I can buy that might make short work of removing these.. best estimate I have is about 500 lb.s of these connectors. I thought the majority of the weight would be the plastic housing, but after weighing them, I'm looking at approximately 100 lb.s of pins once they are removed.. Any help on this would be great. (note to Mod.. if this is OT and you need to move it, could you pm me so I can find where this reply went?.. thanks :mrgreen: )
 
oh yeah.. a little more background before I forget...

I don't have the time to use an e-cell, I just wanted to do batches of ten or so pounds at a time and let them soak for a few days. Sort of the Ronco method.. you know, "set it and forget it".. :mrgreen: so something that may take longer but yield a better result would be much more suitable for me than something I would have to dedicate many hours to watching over.. I do enough of that pulling pins :lol: (and no, I don't want to sell them on Ebay :mrgreen: )

Also, I suspect my pins are largely nickel or something other than copper. I roughed up a few I pulled out with sandppaper and the chrome color remained, so I clipped a few, looked at them under a jewelers' loop and the chrome color runs straight through the whole pin.. perhpaps AP isn't the right way to go with these? I certainly don't have the resources to deal with giant quantities of nitric or the insane amount of toxic gas/waste I would produce by reducing them down in such manner.
 
Why don't you check out Steve's video on the copper mesh he uses for pins
in an electrolytic cell. It seems to be a fast way to git-r-dun.

http://www.goldrecovery.us

It might solve the problem for you. 8)
 
yeah.. I've used that method before with great results. :mrgreen: I'm probably going to go that route in the end anyways, but I rarely have time to drop by here and sometimes when I do, some new techniques are being discussed, so I figured I'd throw that out there. The e-cell still seems to be the most efficient way to go for this particular scenario. Tme to go dig out the ol' lead anodes and find an over sized pyrex beaker... I've got plenty of copper mesh, found a great deal on some at an art supply place that was going out of business, so Im set there. Now, if I can find my "hole-y jeans"..heh.. remember, boys and girls, you will invariably get a smudge on your jeans, skirt, whatever and when it hits the wash, it's going to turn into a nice hole.. :twisted:

time to end this response.. it's going off-topic.. 8)
 
AuMINIMayhem said:
Also, I suspect my pins are largely nickel or something other than copper. I roughed up a few I pulled out with sandppaper and the chrome color remained, so I clipped a few, looked at them under a jewelers' loop and the chrome color runs straight through the whole pin.
Click to expand...

Don't clip it to get a cross section, any surface metal will smear across the cut. Break them by bending repeatedly and you will probably find out that it is yellow brass on the inside.
Usually pins like this is tin plated on the solder side and gold plated on the other side. To check for tin plate just rub it against a white paper, if it leaves a gray trace then it is tin.
There probably is nickel plate under the gold, it protects the gold from alloying with the base metal in the pin.

/Göran
 
Mini Mayhem,

Good to see a NH-ite. Any input on the whereabouts of JustinNH?

The only "new Method" possibly to you, that I can offer is Amalgamation. No, not using mercury or cyanide leaches.

What I speak of has been posted a few times before. It is commonly sold on EPay, and is supposed to be a metal known as Bismuth. At least that is what I got out of previous topics with other Forum Members.

Basically the process is that you take the bismuth in say a stainless pan and heat till liquified. (unsure of temp., but there is a forum on Ebay), then add your materials (Pins in your case). The bismuth should absorb the gold like a conventional amalgam, but is proported to leave the base metals floating on top as slag. Skim it off, then let the Bismuth cool, almost instant when poured into a colder vessel. Then I believe the precipitating chemical involved (again unsure of the method) is plain ammonia.

Ebay is claimed to be expensive at $10 a gram for the "Bismuth", but I found another site that sells it much cheaper, whichI posted on another topic.

I can't see why this method wouldn't be accepted if it works as advertised, however I have come across some heavy dis-approval the last few times I posted. Look into it though, like I say there is a forum for the topic on Ebay. Must have some followers. LOL

Good Luck Bud,

Nick
 

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