"water soluable people"...hmmmm
lol
lol
Harold_V said:How much does it enter in to the equation where nitric acid is concerned? I was lead to believe that the addition of water provided an extended amount of work by a given lot of acid. It's clear that water should be added to concentrated nitric when silver is dissolved----the question is, does it actually do more work? If so, what, exactly, is the mechanism by which the additional work is provided. Regenerating from the fumes sounds like part of the process. Is there more?
Harold
zorba said:lazersteve said:Considering the expense of store bought nitric acid, and the time required to make your own, be sure to dilute the acid to 35% (or even less will work, but slower). The water acts as a medium for the metal nitrates to dissolve into. This is also another reason to add your nitric in controlled doses, and to know how much nitric to use in advance of performing the reaction.
Alright, that cleared my foggy mind up a bit... Apparently, the water also helps as a solvent to the base metals.
So lats say that i have a ~50% nitric which i dilute one part down to 25%, will it still have an effect when dissolving
copper and silver from the already precipitated brown gold sand?
goldsilverpro said:As far as separating gold from copper goes, you basically have 3 options:
(1) Selectively dissolve the copper without dissolving the gold. This can be done with nitric acid or by using the muriatic acid/hydrogen peroxide method as developed by Lazersteve. There are tons of very detailed information on the forum for both processes.
(2) Selectively remove the gold without dissolving the copper. This can be done by using the electrolytic sulfuric acid stripper. Here again, there is tons of information on the forum about this.
(3) Dissolve everything and selectively precipitate the gold. This can be done with aqua regia (a combination of muriatic and nitric acids) but, unless the gold makes up a major portion of the material, this is not the way to go, for a number of reasons. With most gold plated electronic materials, such as fingers, this is almost never the way to go. With certain types of old CPUs that contain gold brazes, however, this may be the best method.
PonyExpress said:Another alternative is dissolve everything in aqua regia and use sulfur dioxide to precipitate the copper from solution. Adding HCL will precipitate the silver. Gold can then be electroplated.
Rhodium said:So2 will drop gold from ar.
PonyExpress said:Another alternative is dissolve everything in aqua regia and use sulfur dioxide to precipitate the copper from solution
Oz said:PonyExpress said:Another alternative is dissolve everything in aqua regia and use sulfur dioxide to precipitate the copper from solution
I think the point Rhodium may have been making is that SO2 will precipitate gold from a chloride solution preferentially over the copper you stated. Yes it will also precipitate copper if used in excess, but what little copper is there is what proper washing technique is for.
Oz said:After you precipitated your gold with SO2 and you had finishing washing it you mention you re-dissolved it and then plate. I am assuming you were making a plating solution from your refined gold. Do you care to walk through the steps you followed to make your plating solution?
Depending on your objective, cyanide may not work. It is not selective, and will transfer silver as well as gold. I expect it would also co-deposit copper. It is beyond reason to expect fine gold using it as an electrolyte unless you start with fine gold, and have no contaminants in the electrolyte. It can be an excellent recovery process, but not worth a damn for refining.PonyExpress said:The electrowinning solution can be a weak acid (HCL) or cyanide/caustic solution.
PonyExpress said:I am getting some backlash from the establishment in this forum, probably deserved. Guess I was a bit vague, not 100% technically correct. Anyway, there are many ways to skin a cat.
Enter your email address to join: