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searcher1x

Active member
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
27
I joined this forum a couple of months back, unfortunately I never fully understood what a wealth of information it is or the knowledge and years of experience amassed by many of it's members. Fact is, I never used or logged into the forum (other than once or twice) until the last week.

I stumbled across some information on the web about 8 months back talking about Gold From Escrap. Read the article and decided, “Hey, I can do that”. I already had a bunch of old towers, cords, PCI cards, printers and on and on. I understood enough to recognize two facts.

1st, I didn't know near enough to start reclaiming and refining PM's from escrap and needed to do much research. I did have some knowledge and experience working with chemicals, but not near enough

2nd, even though all the “junk” I had on hand would be a start, it wasn't near enough to make money from, serious or otherwise. I knew that to make any money I would need to find a way to access large amounts of old PC's and escrap or I would be wasting my time.

Little did I know where this new path was going to take me!

I read everything I could find online and, little by little, started to learn. Little did I know that 75% of what I was learning was false and misleading information. The authors of most of the information must be on some type of ego trip. Guess that's the beauty of the internet, if wrapped up and packaged real pretty you can fool people into believing just about anything! Well, fool me once shame on you; Fool me twice same on ME!

I found a way to get the computers and assorted electronics I needed and even found myself plunged into a new business. Buying old used electronics; some items would be refurbished and/or repaired and resold online; some items would be stripped for parts and resold online; some items would be broken down and recycled for scrap or broken down and any parts with PM potential would be separated and prepped for processing.

My quest for a source of affordable computers and assorted electronics had became a profitable little business. I get to travel around buying and transporting the electronics I purchase. Since most of the electronics have some years on them I get exposure to equipment and components I never knew existed and, for the reason just stated, much of the electronics end up broken down, the common metals and components recycled and sold for scrap and I have an ever growing stockpile of items loaded with PM's and waiting for reclaim/refine processing. That brings me to where I am now.

Before I ask for advice I want to say I have read Hoke twice and always have a .pdf copy open on my desktop so I can do a quick keyword search. First time I read it made no sense at all to me. Second time, I still walked away confused. The information in the book seemed to jump around all over the place and was not presented in what I thought was a logical order of progression. Yes, the author of the book does know her stuff, but she leaves a lot to be desired with the composition and presentation of her knowledge.

Also, the information she presented was in no way similar to anything I had found on the internet. The procedures and chemicals were slightly similar but for the most part entirely different. Every where in Hokes book when she talks of using AR to dissolve and suspend gold in solution, she stresses the point that to get the gold to drop you must and a little sulfuric acid to the solution after the gold is suspended, then boil the whole solution down to a paste like slurry and a lot of other things to get the gold to drop. Nowhere had I heard or read that information before. Even this week while searching and reading thread after thread on this forum I have yet to come across anything that says to boil AR before dropping the gold.

That being said, a few weeks back I decided that I needed to get my feet wet and try to process something. I had managed to collect 2lbs. of pins with some degree of gold on them; some fully plated, some partially plated and some with just the tips plated and figured this was as good a place as any to start. I had no idea that I had chosen the dirtiest, hardest and most time consuming material to start with. Guess we all have to mount the learning curve at some point, looks like I choose the worst place I could find to hop on board.

Took about a 1/2lb of pins and put in a small, plastic container that I could cap and shake regularly and covered with AP. A couple of weeks later I dumped the remaining 1.5lbs in a large container and covered with AP.

4 weeks later the small container had reduced in volume around 65%, happy camper I was not! Knew something was wrong but could not put my finger on it. Funny thing, there is very little credible information on the internet when it comes to pins. Almost everything I did find always talked about solid or fully plated pins and that information was sketchy and never addressed the problems I was experiencing. Started keyword searching Hoke and learned about addressing lead and tin contaminating as separate issues. Tried the different acid baths and still just could not seem to get the bulk to reduce very fast at all. Then I had a flash, why not burn the pins with a torch and get rid of a lot of the excess metal bulk that way. Nowhere had I read burning was bad, in fact what I had read seemed to indicate just the opposite.

Drained, filtered and washed the pins then dumped them in a stainless steel sheet-rock mud pan and fired up the torch. used a small mortar trowel to chop the pins up when they glowed red. Noticed some of the gold plating would melt and run together in clumps so I chopped them up also. Figured smaller particles would be easier to process. This reduced the bulk dramatically. Then I sifted all the material through a tea filter, washed in HCL and water and ran through the AP another time.

After a few days filtered, washed and decided it was time for the AC step. Wrong! I guess the pins were still loaded with base metals and very little were suspended in solution. After a week I decided they had dissolved as much as they were going to dissolve. Filtered, washed and put the remaining pins aside to address in the future. Decided to see if I could drop the gold from solution. Diluted, heated for a few hours to eliminate any excess chlorine and got out the old smb. After starting the drop I ran out of smb, no prob, it was late so I figured I'd get some more the next day and finish up. Every have one of those days that everything that could go wrong, would go wrong? Next day, I did!

Next day I picked up a bunch of different chemicals, even came across some ph down that I snatched up. Figured I'd get the smb at Lowe’s on the way home. Surprise, Lowe’s didn't carry stump-out, I would need to get that at Home Depot and that was 10 miles back the direction I had just came from What the heck, I remembered reading that smb became sodium bisulfite when added to water and I did have some ph down. I never noticed that ph down had an “a” instead of an “i” in it's name. Guess you can see where this is headed, right? Long story short, when the sb was not working I looked at the chemical component and started to wonder if I had screwed up royally.

That's when I really started to learn how valuable this forum actually is. Started searching and found a post where the poor guy had made the same error as I. Steve said all was not lost and outlined a few different ways the the gold could possibly be saved. I put the solution aside and will let you know what happens when I get back to it.

It had been a week since I had started processing the 1.5lbs of pins in the AP (did I mention that I had burned the crap out of those pins also to reduce their bulk? It was becoming apparent that there was something I was missing because at their current rate, it would be after Christmas before all the base metal was gone. Again, got back on the forum and started reading thread after thread. Then, for the first time in all the months since I had been studding and reading about recovering and refining, there it was, one of the wiser-than-me forum users said it ...you can't process magnetic pins with AP. What? Why hadn't any of the self proclaimed “experts” that did video after video on YouTube ever said that? Heck, they made processing pins seem like a walk in the park. Let me tell you, it's been anything but!

OK, it's never too late, took my pins, filtered, boiled in HLC for two hours, did multiple hot water baths and then pulled out the concentrated sulfuric acid. Covered the pins in H2O and added an equal amount of concentrated sulfuric acid to the pot and turned on the heat. Boiled the pins for 4 hours in the solution, what a difference! Cooled down and poured off the solution. Washed the pins 4 times in water. Then covered with water one more time and let set overnight. Today I put the pot back on heat and brought to a boil, filtered and repeated the wash 4 more times. Next covered pins with HCL, boiled for 1 hour, poured off solution and washed 4 times in boiling water. Covered with aged AP and placed aside for the night

When I was washing the pins after the sulfuric boil every time I washed the water went milk white. Same with the HLC, first couple of washes went milky white, the following 2 washes were sort of like skim milk with what looked like a distinct light orange solution floating on the top (maybe rust??)

Well, there it is, my shame for all to see!. I'm open to any feedback anyone can offer. Where I went wrong, what was going on and where I go now. Only concerned with the larger batch of pins, the smaller batch is not even worth talking about.

Thanks in advance and … be gentle
 
First suggestion is to quit watching youtube.

Next suggestion would be for you to do some more searching here on the use of AP. Get you an aquarium bubbler and use it with your AP. And do some searching and reading up on the use of AP here on the forum. Everyone has to start some where.
 
Barren, I have been and will continue to search this forum. Perhaps you missed it in my main post but is was in this forum that I got the information that AP is the wrong process for magnetic pins

Even though you did not come out and say it, I get the impression from your reply that you don't agree with that statement.

Do you believe that AP is the best way to chemically process magnetic pins or is the other poster correct in their insertion that AP is not the correct way to process pins.

One other comment, and no disrespect intended, but your reply was really next to useless. Instead of offering something constructive you choose instead to state the general obvious facts. I'm not asking for anyone to take me by the hand but I do expect those who choose to respond to at least be constructive. If you don't feel that I am worthy of your help, I can live with that. But do us both a favor and don't waste my time, or yours with trivial comments that serve no practical purpose what so ever
 
searcher1x said:
Barren, I have been and will continue to search this forum. Perhaps you missed it in my main post but is was in this forum that I got the information that AP is the wrong process for magnetic pins

Even though you did not come out and say it, I get the impression from your reply that you don't agree with that statement.

Do you believe that AP is the best way to chemically process magnetic pins or is the other poster correct in their insertion that AP is not the correct way to process pins.

One other comment, and no disrespect intended, but your reply was really next to useless. Instead of offering something constructive you choose instead to state the general obvious facts. I'm not asking for anyone to take me by the hand but I do expect those who choose to respond to at least be constructive. If you don't feel that I am worthy of your help, I can live with that. But do us both a favor and don't waste my time, or yours with trivial comments that serve no practical purpose what so ever

I think you really need to search and study the forum, and ask no questions for a while with an attitude like that.

Jim
 
He who never asks a question will never hear the answer, and is asking for positive, constructive input what you consider to be an attitude? If so, then I guess I'm full of attitude.

Ever heard it said ... If you don't have anything positive or constructive to say, then say nothing
 
searcher1x said:
He who never asks a question will never hear the answer, and is asking for positive, constructive input what you consider to be an attitude? If so, then I guess I'm full of attitude.

Ever heard it said ... If you don't have anything positive or constructive to say, then say nothing

Ever hear..................
Bye
 
Next suggestion would be for you to do some more searching here on the use of AP. Get you an aquarium bubbler and use it with your AP. And do some searching and reading up on the use of AP here on the forum.

That is actually some very sound advice. One of the main failures I see, and have done myself, is the use of way to little "AP" when beginners start trying to do pins. It will take a fairly large volume of solution to hold the amount of base metals in one or two pound pins. A sulfuric cell would be a good choice if you access to pins by lots of several pounds at a time.

(I see I was beat to it)
 
Shark said:
One of the main failures I see, and have done myself, is the use of way to little "AP" when beginners start trying to do pins. It will take a fairly large volume of solution to hold the amount of base metals in one or two pound pins.

searcher1x,

Shark is absolutely right. I didn't use enough AP for my 3.5 pounds of pins at first either. Here is the link incase you want to read how my attempt went. I'm not quite finished yet "I've been processing IC chips lately", but there is alot of questions and some mistakes I had with the pins. http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=22285
 
Shark said:
Next suggestion would be for you to do some more searching here on the use of AP. Get you an aquarium bubbler and use it with your AP. And do some searching and reading up on the use of AP here on the forum.

That is actually some very sound advice. One of the main failures I see, and have done myself, is the use of way to little "AP" when beginners start trying to do pins. It will take a fairly large volume of solution to hold the amount of base metals in one or two pound pins. A sulfuric cell would be a good choice if you access to pins by lots of several pounds at a time.

(I see I was beat to it)

Shark, I did have an aquarium bubbler on order. It arrived late yesterday afternoon and I will be installing it today

Another question for all, are there any negative consequences to to torch burning the magnetic pins, before starting any of the acid procedures to;
a) flame clean any contaminates off the metal first
b) weaken the integrity of the base metals which should allow the acids to do their job without having to work as hard, and
c) reduce the overall bulk volume of the materials?

I do remember reading in Hoke that you should anneal the metals before starting any of the acid procedures but I never find mention of that step anywhere else. Also, even though Hoke did say to anneal first, she never explained the reason or benefits associated with annealing. Can anyone elaborate?
 
searcher1x said:
Barren, I have been and will continue to search this forum. Perhaps you missed it in my main post but is was in this forum that I got the information that AP is the wrong process for magnetic pins

Even though you did not come out and say it, I get the impression from your reply that you don't agree with that statement.

Do you believe that AP is the best way to chemically process magnetic pins or is the other poster correct in their insertion that AP is not the correct way to process pins.

One other comment, and no disrespect intended, but your reply was really next to useless. Instead of offering something constructive you choose instead to state the general obvious facts. I'm not asking for anyone to take me by the hand but I do expect those who choose to respond to at least be constructive. If you don't feel that I am worthy of your help, I can live with that. But do us both a favor and don't waste my time, or yours with trivial comments that serve no practical purpose what so ever

Don't waste your time!! That's rich :roll: . I like that. The perfect statement coming from a member that has been on the forum for over 7 months. Over a hundred members have looked at your post and possibly read it. So how much of the forum members time did you just waste by posting your comment and expecting them to read it and give you a detailed answer on where you have screwed up? With that one statement you have cut out a lot of the members that would comment on your post to give you help because of your attitude. Most of us love to help other members out when they get in a bind but we do have other things to do as well.

If you go to Home Depot and ask for a bolt the associate will tell you they are on isle 9 and expect you to go look on that isle and find the bolt you are looking for rather that telling you to go to isle 9 left hand side first rack of shelving 3 bins down and 5 bins over from the left hand side.

After all of your reading where did you learn that you needed and air bubbler for your AP solution? And you are just now ordering one? You could have gone to Wal Mart and gotten one for the cost of your postage you paid for the one you have ordered and it is coming in. You should have absorbed in the first month of your reading that it is vital to have an air bubbler of some sort for your AP reaction to work better not 6-7 months later.

Most all of the pins you are going to get from the type of material you are processing are going to have some magnetic properties. Either from being kovar a steel alloy or from the nickle barrier between the gold and the base metals steel, kovar, copper or brass. You have to learn the difference in how magnetic they are and make the decision on how to process them in the manner you feel is the safest for your level of experience. Anealing your pins is not going to help a bit in your processing of the pins. Incinerating will help to a small extent for what you are doing by removing any oil, greese or other contaminants from your material.

A sulphuric cell is not going to be of much use to you on the current batch you are processing because you have already dissolved part of the base metals and have small flakes of gold foils that will not separate from the pins and therefore you will have to wash the pins a lot to remove the gold foils from the pins after you run them through the cell. But IMHO running the low grade pins you have in a cell is more trouble than it is worth unless you have a large volume to process and by a large volume I mean pounds. For that you would want to search for a tumbler cell on the forum.

A gallon of HCL should dissolve a little over 2 pounds of copper. It will dissolve less if you have kovar pins in your mix because the copper will cement out of solution onto your kovar pins and thus have to be redissolved into your AP again. This kind of a double edged sword because as the copper cements onto the kovar it dissolves part of the kover. However the steel that is being put into solution ruins the AP solution and converts it to a different kind of solution but it will still continue to attack the copper and dissolve it into solution. Doing this in a crock pot will help you process the material faster because the heat aids in speeding up the process along with the air bubbler.

Now lets stop here and clarify something at this point the solution should not be referred to as AP but as copper chloride solution because that is what you have produced. So therefor you should refrence your solution as copper chloride not as AP.
 
Barren, First let me thank you for your reply and taking the time to provide me with some answers. Since you have been so kind I will try and answer the questions you have asked.

Barren Realms 007 said:
After all of your reading where did you learn that you needed and air bubbler for your AP solution?

As I stated earlier, I've been reading from many different sources on the internet for the last few months, excluding this forum. My Bad, we all make mistakes and I, for one, have no problem owning up to mine. That being said, a few of the articles I read mentioned that a bubler would speed up the reaction, but none said its was absolutely necessary, vital or mandatory. Actually the vast majority of the information I read never even mentioned a bubbler. My decision to order one came from the realization that what I was currently doing was just not going to cut it, so the bubbler was a move of desperation to fix what seemed to be broken.

Barren Realms 007 said:
And you are just now ordering one?.

Yes, came in late yesterday evening,

Barren Realms 007 said:
You could have gone to Wal Mart and gotten one for the cost of your postage you paid for the one you have ordered and it is coming in.

That, my friend, is an assumption on your part, and a wrong one at that. I don't live in the city, but deep in rural country. The nearest Wal-Mart is over 20 miles away and the gas alone (at today's price) would cost me close to $4.00 for a round trip. There was no postage on the bubbler I bought so that assumption does not apply. I paid a grand total of $5.88 delivered for the bubbler. If what you assume is true then that would mean I could have bought one at Wal-Mart for under $1.88. WOW, if I had known that I would have been right on it. Sorry, no need for sarcasm! My apologizes. Even If I could have gotten one for free it would not have been a factor since, as I said earlier, the realization and decision to acquire one was just made in the last week.

Barren Realms 007 said:
You should have absorbed in the first month of your reading that it is vital to have an air bubbler of some sort for your AP reaction to work better not 6-7 months later.

Again, as I just stated, few of the articles I read mentioned that a bubler would speed up the reaction, but none said its was absolutely necessary, vital or mandatory. The vast majority of the information I read never even mentioned a bubbler.

Barren Realms 007 said:
Most all of the pins you are going to get from the type of material you are processing are going to have some magnetic properties. Either from being kovar a steel alloy or from the nickle barrier between the gold and the base metals steel, kovar, copper or brass. You have to learn the difference in how magnetic they are and make the decision on how to process them in the manner you feel is the safest for your level of experience.

Thanks for sharing that insight with me. Would you care to point me in the right direction (other than just saying read the forum) where I can find some information that addresses that point?

Barren Realms 007 said:
Anealing your pins is not going to help a bit in your processing of the pins. Incinerating will help to a small extent for what you are doing by removing any oil, greese or other contaminants from your material.

OK, I can't argue something I don't really know, but I do have 2 questions that relate to your comment I would appreciate and answer to:

a) If annealing is of no use and a waste of time, why does Hoke include it in her book as a step to take prior to any chemical processing? Is the use on "annealing" just a misuse of terms on her part? Should have said incinerate instead? and

b) correct me if I am wrong, but considering the size and thickness of the metal pins, and the level of heat incineration requires, incinerating them is also going to anneal them at the same time. Only way to avoid that would be too cool them quickly, like dropping them in a bucket of cold water. Even then you would have to move rather quickly so they did not cool naturally (which is the actual process of annealing) to avoid annealing? Any thoughts on that?

Barren Realms 007 said:
A sulphuric cell is not going to be of much use to you on the current batch you are processing because you have already dissolved part of the base metals and have small flakes of gold foils that will not separate from the pins and therefore you will have to wash the pins a lot to remove the gold foils from the pins after you run them through the cell. But IMHO running the low grade pins you have in a cell is more trouble than it is worth unless you have a large volume to process and by a large volume I mean pounds. For that you would want to search for a tumbler cell on the forum.

Again, thanks for that information but, like you say, at my level of experience I don't plan on going anywhere near a sulphuric cell at this time (nor do I plan on processing any more pins for some time). I still have much to learn, once I have grown in experience and knowledge I'll think about a sulphuric cell. Now, as to a tumbler cell, this is the first time I have ever heard that term. I can promise you I will start researching that immediately. Sounds like it could have much potential. If you care to point me in the right direction I will be grateful, if not I understand and will find it on my own.

Barren Realms 007 said:
A gallon of HCL should dissolve a little over 2 pounds of copper. It will dissolve less if you have kovar pins in your mix because the copper will cement out of solution onto your kovar pins and thus have to be redissolved into your AP again. This kind of a double edged sword because as the copper cements onto the kovar it dissolves part of the kover. However the steel that is being put into solution ruins the AP solution and converts it to a different kind of solution but it will still continue to attack the copper and dissolve it into solution. Doing this in a crock pot will help you process the material faster because the heat aids in speeding up the process along with the air bubbler.

Thanks for that insight

Barren Realms 007 said:
Now lets stop here and clarify something at this point the solution should not be referred to as AP but as copper chloride solution because that is what you have produced. So therefor you should refrence your solution as copper chloride not as AP.

Point well taken. I know there is a difference, however it is much easier and faster to write AP then copper chloride or copper chloride copper chloride (whichever the case may be). That, coupled with the fact that a majority of the post I have read on this forum and other places take the same liberty as I did and everyone on this site seemed to know what they were trying to say, was my reason for using AP. Does that make using an incorrect term, even if considered an acceptable practice, OK? Definitely not. Like I said, point well taken

For the record, I do apologize for my response to your comment last might. I can assure you it was more so born out of frustration than anything you said or did.
 
Great so we've got through all the malarkey and we're all friends now? 8) 8)

Searcher to answer one of your points. Hoke was written in an era before even the concept of IT or ewaste was born. Her processes and insights, whilst a vast resource for the chemical and practical basis of refining do not always translate perfectly when processing ewaste.

Many more metals are used in electronics scrap and more importantly in differing combinations, and with modern composite base components than in her day.

As such her work should always be cross referenced with the experience of modern ewaste refiners before applying some of her processes to this newer type of material.

I hope that helps

Jon
 
Ok,

Enough bickering guys.

All these pins questions literally make me want to write "PINS--the comprehensive guide to processing gold plated stuff that you probably shouldn't even be processing"
Then we can just say "refer to page 181"

More or less, there's extracting the gold selectively from the pins accomplished by:
thiourea
thiocyanate
in situ peroxysulfuric acid (the deplating cell)
cyanide
organic solvents/gold ligands (i.e. TBP and I2, SOCl2/pyridine, NMP/HNO3/quat ammonium halide)

or there's extracting/subverting the base metal substrate in part or in whole and leaving the gold behind with:
nitric acid
acid peroxide
electrowinning
etc.

What way you do it depends on the pins. Generally, Au/Cu needs nitric to get the gold off quantitatively. Au/Ni/Cu (or brass), and the strip liquors are fine.

Lou
 
searcher1x said:
Barren, First let me thank you for your reply and taking the time to provide me with some answers. Since you have been so kind I will try and answer the questions you have asked.

No problem. You cought me on a good day. :mrgreen:

Barren Realms 007 said:
After all of your reading where did you learn that you needed and air bubbler for your AP solution?

searcher1x said:
As I stated earlier, I've been reading from many different sources on the internet for the last few months, excluding this forum. My Bad, we all make mistakes and I, for one, have no problem owning up to mine. That being said, a few of the articles I read mentioned that a bubler would speed up the reaction, but none said its was absolutely necessary, vital or mandatory. Actually the vast majority of the information I read never even mentioned a bubbler. My decision to order one came from the realization that what I was currently doing was just not going to cut it, so the bubbler was a move of desperation to fix what seemed to be broken.

That was good judgement on your part and will pay dividends in what you are doing.
Pretty much all the reading material you will need is here on the forum if you learn how to do the searches but it can be a daunting task.
If you look up Lazersteve and go to his website he has a better search function than the forum does.

Also there is another site you can visit and join that will give you a lot of help: http://www.Refinemntofpreciousmetals.com

Most of the rest rest except for members youtube channels and websites I would probably stay away from. If you do enough searching here and on RPM you will have every answer to any question you might possibly have answered.

Barren Realms 007 said:
And you are just now ordering one?.

searcher1x said:
Yes, came in late yesterday evening,

That is good. Before you use the bubbler take a 5 gallon bucket and fill it with water and put the air hose weighted down into the bottom of the bucket and make sure it will pump air to the bottom of the bucket. Some of the bubblers members have ordered online did not produce enough force to pump air into the bottom of the bucket. Also find you an air stone to attach to your hose to produce smaller bubbles that will allow the oxygen to be absorbed into the solution faster.

Barren Realms 007 said:
You could have gone to Wal Mart and gotten one for the cost of your postage you paid for the one you have ordered and it is coming in.

searcher1x said:
That, my friend, is an assumption on your part, and a wrong one at that. I don't live in the city, but deep in rural country. The nearest Wal-Mart is over 20 miles away and the gas alone (at today's price) would cost me close to $4.00 for a round trip. There was no postage on the bubbler I bought so that assumption does not apply. I paid a grand total of $5.88 delivered for the bubbler. If what you assume is true then that would mean I could have bought one at Wal-Mart for under $1.88. WOW, if I had known that I would have been right on it. Sorry, no need for sarcasm! My apologizes. Even If I could have gotten one for free it would not have been a factor since, as I said earlier, the realization and decision to acquire one was just made in the last week.

I figured that would be the case that you were in the country but I was going to let you elaborate on that information. If your new air pump doesn't do the job then make a trip to Wal Mart and get a dual outlet aquarium pump some extra hose and an air stone. In the long run it will be worth the gas money. 8)

Barren Realms 007 said:
You should have absorbed in the first month of your reading that it is vital to have an air bubbler of some sort for your AP reaction to work better not 6-7 months later.

searcher1x said:
Again, as I just stated, few of the articles I read mentioned that a bubler would speed up the reaction, but none said its was absolutely necessary, vital or mandatory. The vast majority of the information I read never even mentioned a bubbler.

It's not mandatory but if you want a faster reaction time it helps a lot.

Barren Realms 007 said:
Most all of the pins you are going to get from the type of material you are processing are going to have some magnetic properties. Either from being kovar a steel alloy or from the nickle barrier between the gold and the base metals steel, kovar, copper or brass. You have to learn the difference in how magnetic they are and make the decision on how to process them in the manner you feel is the safest for your level of experience.

searcher1x said:
Thanks for sharing that insight with me. Would you care to point me in the right direction (other than just saying read the forum) where I can find some information that addresses that point?

I'm not really sure if there is a direct post or thread that states this fact it is just something you will learn from doing a lot of reading on the forum and catching small tibits of information here and there.

Best thing I could tell you is to take some pins and a magnet. Wrap the magnet in a zip lock bag so you can easily remove the pins from the magnet. Then test some of the pins and see which one stick strongly to the magnet and which ones don't stick so strongly to the magnet. The ones that don't stick real strong are generally copper or brass with a nickle coating between the gold plating and the base metal, the magnatism comes from the nickle coating. The ones that stick real hard should be kovar or steel based metal under the gold plating.

Barren Realms 007 said:
Anealing your pins is not going to help a bit in your processing of the pins. Incinerating will help to a small extent for what you are doing by removing any oil, greese or other contaminants from your material.

searcher1x said:
OK, I can't argue something I don't really know, but I do have 2 questions that relate to your comment I would appreciate and answer to:

a) If annealing is of no use and a waste of time, why does Hoke include it in her book as a step to take prior to any chemical processing? Is the use on "annealing" just a misuse of terms on her part? Should have said incinerate instead? and

b) correct me if I am wrong, but considering the size and thickness of the metal pins, and the level of heat incineration requires, incinerating them is also going to anneal them at the same time. Only way to avoid that would be too cool them quickly, like dropping them in a bucket of cold water. Even then you would have to move rather quickly so they did not cool naturally (which is the actual process of annealing) to avoid annealing? Any thoughts on that?

As far as I know she was actually referring to incinerating.

Annealing is more or less a mute point in processing because it is not going to have much relevance in the processing of your material.

Barren Realms 007 said:
A sulphuric cell is not going to be of much use to you on the current batch you are processing because you have already dissolved part of the base metals and have small flakes of gold foils that will not separate from the pins and therefore you will have to wash the pins a lot to remove the gold foils from the pins after you run them through the cell. But IMHO running the low grade pins you have in a cell is more trouble than it is worth unless you have a large volume to process and by a large volume I mean pounds. For that you would want to search for a tumbler cell on the forum.

searcher1x said:
Again, thanks for that information but, like you say, at my level of experience I don't plan on going anywhere near a sulphuric cell at this time (nor do I plan on processing any more pins for some time). I still have much to learn, once I have grown in experience and knowledge I'll think about a sulphuric cell. Now, as to a tumbler cell, this is the first time I have ever heard that term. I can promise you I will start researching that immediately. Sounds like it could have much potential. If you care to point me in the right direction I will be grateful, if not I understand and will find it on my own.

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/search.php?keywords=sulphuric+tumbler+cell&terms=all&author=&sv=0&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/search.php?keywords=tumbler+cell&terms=all&author=&sv=0&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

See if those searches helps you.

Barren Realms 007 said:
A gallon of HCL should dissolve a little over 2 pounds of copper. It will dissolve less if you have kovar pins in your mix because the copper will cement out of solution onto your kovar pins and thus have to be redissolved into your AP again. This kind of a double edged sword because as the copper cements onto the kovar it dissolves part of the kover. However the steel that is being put into solution ruins the AP solution and converts it to a different kind of solution but it will still continue to attack the copper and dissolve it into solution. Doing this in a crock pot will help you process the material faster because the heat aids in speeding up the process along with the air bubbler.

searcher1x said:
Thanks for that insight

No problem.

Barren Realms 007 said:
Now lets stop here and clarify something at this point the solution should not be referred to as AP but as copper chloride solution because that is what you have produced. So therefor you should refrence your solution as copper chloride not as AP.

searcher1x said:
Point well taken. I know there is a difference, however it is much easier and faster to write AP then copper chloride or copper chloride copper chloride (whichever the case may be). That, coupled with the fact that a majority of the post I have read on this forum and other places take the same liberty as I did and everyone on this site seemed to know what they were trying to say, was my reason for using AP. Does that make using an incorrect term, even if considered an acceptable practice, OK? Definitely not. Like I said, point well taken

For the record, I do apologize for my response to your comment last might. I can assure you it was more so born out of frustration than anything you said or did.

It is attention to detail that makes the difference and yes it is important in the long run. You will learn as you go along that one letter in a word can mean the difference in success or failure. No use starting off with bad habits and then have to change how you think or word things.

Apology accepted. I understand the frustration. Been there, done that. I have the shirt,shoes socks and pants that go with the outfit. 8)
 
spaceships said:
Great so we've got through all the malarkey and we're all friends now? 8) 8)

Searcher to answer one of your points. Hoke was written in an era before even the concept of IT or ewaste was born. Her processes and insights, whilst a vast resource for the chemical and practical basis of refining do not always translate perfectly when processing ewaste.

Many more metals are used in electronics scrap and more importantly in differing combinations, and with modern composite base components than in her day.

As such her work should always be cross referenced with the experience of modern ewaste refiners before applying some of her processes to this newer type of material.

I hope that helps

Jon

Jon, thanks for that explanation, that actually answers more questions I had about her book. Gott'a give her this, she was years ahead of her competition!
 
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