# Labconco 28044 Fume Hood - From Ebay



## kadriver (Oct 11, 2012)

I wanted to share my new toy with the forum.

I received it this week and today I was able to begin the installation.

It was $250, and another $260 to have it shipped from an Ebay seller.

I am well pleased with it.

I have a tray that I bought from the thrift store and it fits perfectly inside the hood to catch any spills.

I laid some heavy black floor matting from Lowes on top of the home-made wooden table to protect the wood from the fumes.

The glass door slides up and down and uses counter weights on cables with pulleys, perfectly balanced for nice smooth operation.

I will use 8 inch PVC ducted out throught attic to the roof gable vents - pictures to follow.

I don't plan to use a scrubber - I only work with small amounts of material.

The only restrictions I have found - NOT SUITABLE FOR PERCHLORIC ACID - NON-EXPLOSION PROOF - on the warning lable.

kadriver


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## Smack (Oct 11, 2012)

Nice one, liking the built in exhaust. :mrgreen:


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

I installed the ducting today and the fume hood works perfectly.

I went straight up thru the ceil drywall - just cut a hole with a drywall saw.

I went into the attic over the garage and using a plumbob (a weight on a string) I aligned the outlet of the hood with a spot thru the roof.

Then used a sawsall and cut an oval thru the roof, shingles and all.

I went on the roof and stuck the 10 foot section of 6 inch (instead of 8 inch) green colored sewer PVC pipe straight down the hole and into the rubber coupling on the hood outlet. I had it done in about 20 minutes

The rubber reducing adapter slipped over the outlet of the hood (O.D. was 7 inches) and connected the 6 inch side to the PVC.

I am in business with a nice fume hood.

One problem - I need some sort of cap at the top to keep water from running down into the fume hood when it rains.

Too bad they don't make a plastic wind turbine to fit over the top of it.

I'll post some pictures of the installation soon.

kadriver

The green PVC extends to about 2 feet above the peak of my roof.


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## etack (Oct 12, 2012)

you could put a Tee on it at the top like some HVAC people do for furnace exhaust.

you might run into problem with condensation. A 90 that slope away from you outlet might have been better than straight up. just something to catch the water till the draft dried it out again. This could still be done if you could move you fume hood over 20in or so and add the makeshift trap.

just some thoughts.

Eric


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## Smack (Oct 12, 2012)

I just put 2 45's on mine, or you could use a 90 but it will slow the air down more then 2 45's.


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## etack (Oct 12, 2012)

two 45s won't stop the water from sliding down the pipe into the hood. you need something to trap the water or weak acid till it can evaporate.

His air flow will be hampered but not by more than he will need. Even added to reducing the pipe out and the direction change still shouldn't be that much with the short run he has.

Eric


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## jeneje (Oct 12, 2012)

Kadriver i know you have not though about your roof in this ...but if you have a shingle roof and plan on using acids you may want to duck your fumes to the edge or through a scrubber, Acids with eat up shingles. Just a though for you.
Ken

edited very nice hood, great buy.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

The acid on the shingles is a concern. I may add another 5 foot extention higher up to ensure the fumes don't get near the roof.

A scupper around the pipe to catch drip from the tip would prevent any acid from running down the outside of the exhaust pipe and onto the roof.

Thanks for these inputs - two heads are better than one, and three heads are better than two!

I am leaning toward a plastic or PVC rain cap like the one pictured here. A balanced counter weight would reduce restriction.

kadriver


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## gold4mike (Oct 12, 2012)

Use two 45 degree elbows as was suggested above. add enough height first so that there are two or three feet between the bottom of the second elbow and the roof shingles so the fumes will dissipate somewhat and reduce the impact of the acid on your shingles. 

This way the the duct outlet points down instead of up and rain will not enter it.


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## Smack (Oct 12, 2012)

The 2 45's are to keep rain out not keep condensation out. After the scrubber there is a Y and a 2 foot drop so any condensation that could accumulate in the vertical stack would run down into the drop. But I must say that every time I have checked the drop it has been dry. Same concept as when your plumbing your air compressor lines, each place there is a vertical line there is a drop at the bottom with a valve for bleeding out the water.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

Rubber coupler/reducer from Lowes - about $17


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

Here is the hole in the ceiling drywall - Once I had the fume hood in place, I used a straight edge (piece of wood) with a marker taped to it to draw the circle.

Then I used a drywall saw and cut out the hole. I came out in between two rafters with no interference.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

I installed a metal strap to secure the 6 inch pipe. I butted the pipe against the edge of the hole through the roof, then screwed the strap in place.

It is very tight and the wind won't be able to budge it (I know I couldn't).

I plan to add a second metal strap down low also - I'll put a piece of 2x4 between the pipe and the rafter, then install another metal strap to ensure that it can't move, and places no stress on the fume hood or rubber coupling - we get huricanes here from time to time.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

This pic shows the strap and the pipe butted against the side of the hole going through the roof - it is very solid.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

I bought a piece of plastic gutter screen (used to keep leaves out of your gutters) to use as a support for the roofing cement -$2 from Lowes.

The roof cement was $9

I used a pair of aviation shears to cut the plastic gutter screen to form a tight fit around the green PVC.

Then I put some cement on the screen and stapled it to the underside of the roof sheeting.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

Then I did the same thing on the back side of the pipe.


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

I stuffed some insulation in the hole through the ceiling to form a temperature barrier


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## kadriver (Oct 12, 2012)

Up on the roof, I ran a nice bead of the roof cement to form a water tight barrier.

After it sets, I'll add another layer to guarantee that it won't leak

I used general purpose asphalt roofing cement - it is like tar.

The pipe extends about 2 or 3 feet above the peak of the roof.

I can add another 3 foot extension to get it even higher if needed.

My wife made me promise to pain it flat black.

With the unit running, I checked noise level from the front yard - sounds like someone is running an electric clothes dryer.

I am going to make a rain cap from parts - similar to the one pictured earlier in this post.

I'll make it from plexiglass or other heavy plastic and use a plastic hinge of my own design - photos to follow.

If anyone knows where I can get a 6 inch, hinged, plastic rain cap, then please let me know 

Thanks for looking - hope this post can be of some help to others looking to do the same.

kadriver


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## kadriver (Oct 13, 2012)

I have not totally disregarded the "T" or the 2, 45s as a solution to the rain.

I may have to go with one of these suggestions.

Two 45s would put the exhaust aimed right at the shingles, unless I add an horizontal extension out over the side edge of the roof.

But I also have a window AC unit that would then receive a direct blast of noxxy exhaust.

With pipe pointing straight up, I should get a fairly good dissipation of any fumes.

A single 45 pointed side ways away from the roof would be a good solution also.

The hood has a drain tube in case of moisture running down the exhaust.

I don't think much rain will get down the pipe, except in the case of an extended storm such as a hurricane.

If that happens I would buy a cover and duct tape the dickens out of it.

Thanks for all the input so far - kadriver


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## jeneje (Oct 13, 2012)

kadriver said:


> I have not totally disregarded the "T" or the 2, 45s as a solution to the rain.
> 
> I may have to go with one of these suggestions.
> 
> ...


Kadriver, hate to be the bearer of bad news here...but the roofing cement will not hold up for you. Roofing is my trade. You need to go to a roofing supply company NOT HOME DEPOT OR LOWES and ask for a rubber or plastic pipe flange for the size of pipe you have and install it around your pipe.
The roofing cement will dryout and crack open allowing water to pintrate down inside. Ask your local supply rep the proper way to install it. You will need to remove a few shingles and reinstall the shingles around the pipe. Although it looks great Kadriver it will not hold up. good luck.

Ken


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## Smack (Oct 13, 2012)

Kadriver, hate to be the bearer of bad news here...but the roofing cement will not hold up for you. Roofing is my trade. You need to go to a roofing supply company NOT HOME DEPOT OR LOWES and ask for a rubber or plastic pipe flange for the size of pipe you have and install it around your pipe.
The roofing cement will dryout and crack open allowing water to pintrate down inside. Ask your local supply rep the proper way to install it. You will need to remove a few shingles and reinstall the shingles around the pipe. Although it looks great Kadriver it will not hold up. good luck.

Ken[/quote]

Lol, I was thinking the same and thought omg that's a big hole when I saw the picture, but Ken's right, the flange if you can find one with that big of a hole will work great. By the way 2 45's make a 90 and would not point down at the roof, 2 90's would though. 8) Also, I have mine pointed away from where the wind blows the most.


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## kadriver (Oct 13, 2012)

Got it - thank you.

I put that roof on the house myself.

I have some extra shingles so I may just replace the cut ones and butt new shingles closer to the pipe.

When I did the roof, I put all new boots on all four vent pipes.

In my experience, these boots do not hold up, they deteriorate and quit gripping the pipe allowing water to run down the soil vent pipe and stain the ceiling inside the house.

So I coated each boot with a thick layer of roof cement.

While I was up on the roof installing my fume hood vent, I re-applied roof cement to all of the boots again, there were cracks in the cement just like you said.

I can get on the roof with ease - single story ranch style home.

I did not show a picture, but I coated the underside with more of that cement until no light shined through.

I don't think any water is going to get through all that cement plus the plastic support structure, and I can keep applying it to the cracks.

I was a roofer before my Navy career and that is the reason I felt comfortable doing this installation.

Roofing supply - did not think of that - thanks for these valuable tips.

kadriver


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## nickvc (Oct 14, 2012)

Kevin bear in mind that if you cap the outlet pipe the fumes that condense on the surface will drip back down onto your roof so make sure you catch them and drain them away, careful attention to that drain will be required due to blockage problems from leaves etc. the other thought may be to add a condenser, cold water feed through plastic hose into your pipe with a drain plug to drain the acidic liquid away, test with stannous.


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## qst42know (Oct 14, 2012)

Consider the "stack in a stack" type as the simplest form of full unrestricted flow.

http://www.nwcleanair.org/pdf/forms/misc/Stack%20and%20Rain%20Guard%20Requirements1.pdf


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## kadriver (Oct 14, 2012)

nickvc said:


> Kevin bear in mind that if you cap the outlet pipe the fumes that condense on the surface will drip back down onto your roof so make sure you catch them and drain them away, careful attention to that drain will be required due to blockage problems from leaves etc. the other thought may be to add a condenser, cold water feed through plastic hose into your pipe with a drain plug to drain the acidic liquid away, test with stannous.




I plan to use a hinged cover instead of a cap.

Also pipe within a pipe seems like a good solution.


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## kadriver (Oct 14, 2012)

qst42know said:


> Consider the "stack in a stack" type as the simplest form of full unrestricted flow.
> 
> http://www.nwcleanair.org/pdf/forms/misc/Stack%20and%20Rain%20Guard%20Requirements1.pdf




Thanks for this document. I did not want the exhaust going anywhere except straight up.

This document reinforces that line of thought.

My small operation will not be producing large amounts of fumes.

kadriver


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## kadriver (Oct 15, 2012)

It is like starting all over again. I have been using my fume hood constantly since completing the installation.

I allowed it to run all night, from 6:30pm until 8:30 am and took readings on the electric meter for the house.

Over the course of 14 hours it used 5 hours (1827 to 1832), but it may be 6 hours as it does not give a readout in 10ths.

The only other items running was two inside night lights, water heater, and the front porch light.

I did many experiments and operations that I would never have done had I been outside on the deck table.

It is like taking a breath of fresh air - my shop has become a wonderful new place to learn new stuff again.


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## kadriver (Oct 15, 2012)

Here is a prototype cardboard model of the exhaust cap - built it just to get an idea of dimensions and clearances.

The 4 liter beaker just happens to be 7 inches in diameter - same as the end of the exhaust stack.

I must extend the arm to get the cap hinge further to the right (in the photo) to ensure it swings completely out of the way during operation.

I plan to use a thick plastic drain collection box for the material to build the cap. The plastic is black and it is about 1/4 inch thick.

I'll use nylon threaded fasteners to assemble the contraption - too bad I couldn't just find one already pre-made.

This type of rain cap is available, but not in plastic and I could not find one greater than 6 inches - metal or plastic.

kadriver


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## goldenchild (Oct 16, 2012)

kadriver said:


> It is like starting all over again. I have been using my fume hood constantly since completing the installation.
> 
> I allowed it to run all night, from 6:30pm until 8:30 am and took readings on the electric meter for the house.
> 
> ...



Kevin,

Once you get a fumehood you don't know how you ever got by without one! Very nice setup you have 8)


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## kadriver (Oct 17, 2012)

goldenchild said:


> Kevin,
> 
> Once you get a fumehood you don't know how you ever got by without one! Very nice setup you have.



It's 5am and I just got in bed - I had to make myself leave the shop before I got in trouble with my wife!

I was thinking those words all night long Mario.

thanks - kadriver


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## kadriver (Feb 6, 2013)

I am in mourning - the motor in my fume hood seized this evening.

I have been running it almost non-stop since I installed it last fall.

Does anyone have any experience changing out the electric motor in this type of hood?

I have included a picture of the nameplate data from the motor.

Any sugestions on where I could get a new one?

I am going to try and get it out tomorrow and carry it with me to Grainger and some other electrical suppliers around town.

I'm back out on my back deck doing my reactions again.

Poor poor pitiful me!

Thanks - kadriver


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## Palladium (Feb 6, 2013)

Ha Ha ! That's to funny and let me explain why. My exhaust fan for my fume hoods went out last week. I've been having to run basically outside in the rain, snow, and cold up until yesterday. My old fan cost $20 http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=9722&start=120#p126855 . My replacement this time cost about $70 shipping and all http://www.ebay.com/itm/111005645306?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 . Just had to cut the old box off and mount the new one. I notice before the fan went out i was loosing air volume. After i got the old fan down i examined it. The blades look fine. The bearings were free spinning. I traced the fault to the armature. The acid had corroded the armature until it shorted i guess. I even swabbed the inside and did a test for values. :mrgreen: 

I feel for you brother, but it will give you a new found respect for mother nature. Get that motor ordered fast. I spent the first 2 days looking locally and i said i can't afford this delay and bought the first thing smoking. Get it done fast!

OH! and a picture of the children i made the sacrifice for. 8) I hate i don't have a high quality camera sometimes.


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## butcher (Feb 6, 2013)

kadriver, granger is a good bet on the fan, or a heating and air-conditioning parts or repair business.

Palladium, looks like your camera will need sunglasses those bars of gold are blindingly beautiful.


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## Palladium (Feb 6, 2013)

I just wish they would hurry up and have some kids! :shock: They grow up and leave home to fast.

Thanks Butcher!


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## butcher (Feb 6, 2013)

That is sad,I know how hard it is to see those babies go.


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## kadriver (Feb 6, 2013)

Thanks you guys - those bars are absolutely beautiful. Looks like an oxalic precip to me.

I'll bet the acid finally got to fume hood motor as well.

I'm down here in the semi-tropical south, so snow is rare, but the rain can cause me some misery.

Well, I know what I'll be doing today.

Thanks for the input.

kadriver


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## Palladium (Feb 6, 2013)

My fan lasted almost 1 year exactly. The bars are from triple refined gold recovered from an assortment of pins and fingers. All 3 drops were smb followed by proper washing procedures. I've never learned to drop with anything other than smb.


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## butcher (Feb 6, 2013)

kadriver,

Shaded pole motors can be pretty tough, a lot of times the bushings can not let the motor turn, but the windings will not burn up trying to turn the motor, sometimes just taking the motor apart and cleaning the bushings and shaft, oiling the oil packing, and putting the motor back together you can get more life out of the motor, that is if the windings did not burn up.

I could not read the model number of the motor it looked like a Dayton 9M682 is this right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&Catalog=main


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## kadriver (Feb 6, 2013)

Yes, 9m682 butcher, but listen to this......

I can't believe my good fortune. Life can turn on a dime in a heartbeat.

I was getting ready to disassemble the hood and get the motor out so i could find a replacement.

I noticed my stove would not work and I had no hot water.

I called my brother who is an electrician.

After describing the problem, he directed me through a phone tech assist (he's in California).

Then he told me to plug the hood into a different 110 socket.

To my disbelief it started right up and ran perfectly!

The power company arrived and told me that I had "dropped a phase" (exact same thing my brother had told me).

I was nearly in tears with gratitude, I am glad I called my brother before ripping into the fume hood.

What a ride! I still can't believe it.

A very grateful - kadriver


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## Palladium (Feb 6, 2013)

Good deal!


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## butcher (Feb 6, 2013)

It is funny how those thing do not turn, if you do not feed them electricity.

Maybe a few drops of oil in the motor when you get a chance can help it run longer also.

Glad to here your back in bussiness.


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## kkmonte (Feb 6, 2013)

Is that Pipe coming up on the back of your house (I hope)?  You could paint it black or something to hide the green color and make it blend a little more with the roof..


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## kadriver (Feb 15, 2013)

butcher said:


> It is funny how those thing do not turn, if you do not feed them electricity.
> 
> Maybe a few drops of oil in the motor when you get a chance can help it run longer also.
> 
> Glad to here your back in bussiness.



Butcher, the motor calls for a few drops of oil every six months.



kkmonte said:


> Is that Pipe coming up on the back of your house (I hope)?  You could paint it black or something to hide the green color and make it blend a little more with the roof..



Yes, I did paint it black, and it is in the back side of the roof. 

kadriver


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## kadriver (Aug 30, 2017)

After 6 years of continuous 24/7 use, the motor in my fume hood finally quit working. I shut it off and tried to start it up again and it just groaned. I gave the fan a spin and it took off. But the motor casing got up to 180 degrees F and was still climbing so I tagged it out of service.

I'm back to doing reactions in my back yard until I get it repaired.

Anybody have any experience replacing the electric motor in one of these?


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## anachronism (Aug 30, 2017)

kadriver said:


> Anybody have any experience replacing the electric motor in one of these?



Sure. Read the part number from the motor and buy another. Google is your friend. Price check. 

Edit for common sense.


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## butcher (Aug 30, 2017)

The motor may not be a total loss, you might be able to fix it.
There are many different types of motors, I am not sure what kind yours is.
some reasons why the motor may not start, but will run when you spin it to get it running.
The bearings, or bushings are dry or bad, sometimes just cleaning and oiling will fix that.
A bad start switch (a centrifugal clutched switch used with current to switch from the start winding to the run winding, these can be cleaned oiled or sometimes repaired to get them working, or easily replaced.
A bad start capacitor, a new one will get the motor spinning again.

If it is a shaded pole motor taking it apart and cleaning and oiling will most always put them back into service, a brush to remove the rust and a little gray paint will make it look almost new...

A burnt out start winding, an ohm meter can be used to find out if that is the problem, although you can rewind the motor, it is not easy to do, so there a new motor is probably your best choice.

But heck it sounds like this motor served you well, maybe your hood just wants a new one. :lol:


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## justinhcase (Aug 30, 2017)

I have sent these chaps some motors in the past.
http://www.robsonandfrancisrewinds.co.uk/
Very good service, they bring completely dead units back into service.
The main problem with installing a new motor on the old kit is they quite often used out of date fixings or control units.
keep the old one in service and all the mountings will line up the first time and all the wiring will match.
You should have a similar service in the states.


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## Simon007 (Aug 31, 2017)

A bad capacitor wouldn't make it run hot, so it could be a mechanical reason, but if you can spin it by hand easily enough, chances are it's not a mechanical problem which leaves electrical, I don't know how your electrical skills are or if you have a meter, but check the windings with a ohms setting, also check how many amps its pulling.

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk


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## butcher (Aug 31, 2017)

If this is a shaded pole motor.
I would not discount bushings in the motor, especially in the environment of the fan (and its long time in service), shaded pole motors are used in a lot of smaller fans and motors, these motors normally will not burn the winding's (almost never).

Not all shaded pole motors are thermally protected, (even the ones that are not thermally protected normally almost never burn their winding's).
Those that are thermally protected are normally a bit larger style of the shaded pole motor, that pull a little larger fans or other machine... These motors primary winding is more prone to overheat on startup or under a higher load, or with lack of lube in the bushing, thus the primary coil is protected by a thermally operated switch to keep the coil from overheating and burning out your motor, kind of similar to a reset-able circuit breaker that works with heat instead of current...

They do not have start winding's, a start capacitor, or a starting switch (mechanical or current).
Their construction and how they operate is different from most motors.

They use one winding that is powered from your household current on poles, one of the poles has a copper ring, which shifts that poles current and magnetism to make the motor begin turning in one direction, this primary coil is normally of heavy enough wire and insulation that it can handle a locked rotor condition, IE: the motor not moving with current applied to this primary winding, and not burn off insulation of the coil, or burn into or short out this winding, and those larger shaded pole motors that have thermal circuit breakers to protect the winding insulation from getting too high or hot, and burning off...
The other winding (in the rotor, does not see household current, the current in this winding is induced by the primary coils winding's and the magnetic field the primary winding moving or cutting across this secondary winding (note the magnet moving is important here), with out that movement or fast enough movement the motors primary winding will pull more current which also generates more heat (watts).

The bushings must be in good shape, be lubricated so the rotor can turn extremely easily, especially when power is applied at the first, for startup when the motors primary is going to pull a higher current, and the magnetic field is weak because of the magnetic field and it relatively slow movement of the magnetic field until it get to running up to (full) speed (full speed is also important here). 

The bearings are like the lever in a machine it is the weak point in a mechanical lever, just like in a sea saw lever where a small boy can lift a heavy man on the other end of the sea saw, just a little less weight on the boy and the large man just sits there, without oil or free movement in the bushings your motor will just sit there and warm up...

Spinning the motor by hand your are overcoming most of the friction keeping the motor from starting, Your also making the primary's winding magnetism cut faster across the secondary winding which creates more magnetism in that secondary to keep the motor running, but friction in the oil-less or oil starved) bushing is still putting a drag on the motor, (the boys weight is not quite heavy enough to lift the big man fast or good enough) so the primary winding is also having to work harder to try to get up to full speed (which it cannot do without good movement at the bushing) pulling more current and generating more heat (watts)...

Basically if it is a shaded pole motor, you have, the problem is normally lack of lube or friction in the bushings, or bearings, they almost never burn out the primary of the poles, and do not have many of the parts other types of motors which can go wrong. Taking the shaded pole motor apart and cleaning and lubing it will almost always get them up and running again.

Shaded pole motors can also be reversed easily by turning the rotor around,(the center rotating portion of the motor with the secondary coil which get its current from induction of the magnetic field) and its relation to the shaded pole with the copper ring coil of the primary's shaded pole. So if it turns backwards after you have oiled it and put it back together just take it back apart and turn the rotor around to get it spinning in the wanted direction.

These motors normally do not have good starting on most any kind of external loads, so that also limits there use in many things that need motors, small fans are a good application for this type of motor, and in most smaller fans you will have this type of motor. 

Your's may not be a shaded pole motor, so much of this may not apply, but it would not hurt to try, even for fixing up a backup motor for your hood.

Simon007, you are correct in what you said.
And I do not wish to take anything from it as it is good advice. 

But I still have to disagree somewhat, depending on the type of motor, if a capacitor or a start switch is bad the motor can overheat or get hot, the start winding can over heat and begin to burn out, the run winding cannot get running fast enough or soon enough (even with the help of your hand spinning it, like helping the young boy on the sea saw by you standing on the big man side and helping lift the big man so the boys weight can pull down slowly on the sea saw with the inertia you created on that side of the lever...).

When trouble shooting I do not discount any possible problem completely, even the ones that are probably never a problem, I keep them in the back of my mind so that I may be able to check to see if they are actually the cause, and many times they are, and they are the ones we can very easily overlooked by our own disregard.


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## 4metals (Aug 31, 2017)

I will say I have one of these exact hoods and have been using it since 1978. It has not been running 24/7 because when not in use I clean up all solutions and wipe the hood down so it can be shut off. But the thing always fires up and never has given me any trouble, and I have used it consistently every week for the last 39 years. I have a client on Long Island who has one in an assay lab and his does run 24/7 and has been for over 8 years since he acquired it at an auction. So I would say the blower motors are well built and would think it is repairable. 

Had you noticed any sounds different than normal coming from the blower motor? Usually a blower gives us a signal before breaking down.


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## snoman701 (Sep 1, 2017)

Like Butcher said, you may be able to get away with oiling the bushings. 

If not, replacement motor should be available from Grainger. Dayton Electric is still in business and should be able to cross reference that model number. 

If willing, will you take pictures of the blower assembly when you disassemble. I have the identical hood, but don't have integral exhaust, and would LOVE to install it. 

LabConco still sells this hood, so they may also have replacement motors you can purchase.


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## kadriver (Sep 17, 2017)

Thanks for all the replies. The fan will spin, but not freely. It stops immediately after I spin it by hand. I think that it is a bad bearing. Labconco quoted me $400 for a replacement motor. But Grainger may have a suitable replacement for about $100. The fan blades had a thick coating of junk built up on the blades that had to be scraped off, almost a 50% blockage between the blades.

The motor was making an unusual noise, louder than normal hum, and that's what prompted me to shut it off. When I turned it back on later it just groaned. I spun it with a screwdriver and it ran - for the last time. 

I can't get the fan off the motor shaft because the metal set screw is badly corroded into the metal hub of the fan from constant acid fume exposure. Even if I got the set screw out, the metal hub and the motor shaft are probably "grown together" from the corrosion.

I have found a replacement polypropylene fan with motor from a place in Henderson NC, Salareinc. Does anybody have any experience with these folks? Almost $1500.

I'll have to mount it in the attic over my garage and plumb it into the existing 6 inch stack.

Ill bet I've had 5 or 6 hundred Troy ounces of metal go through that hood. It's been a good one.


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## Topher_osAUrus (Sep 17, 2017)

Any of the crud buildup on the blades precious metals?


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## 4metals (Sep 17, 2017)

> Any of the crud buildup on the blades precious metals?



I know that in commercial refineries the crud buildup on the insides of ductwork and on the fan impeller and housing is always incinerated (slowly because it burns fast and furious) and made into sweeps for refining, it always is worth doing. Bear in mind most fume scrubbers in commercial installations are on the main exhaust up to the fume scrubber so all that condenses out and coats the duct will have all of the values it was carrying when it gassed off. Ductwork after a scrubber does not show signs the same level of retention.


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## kadriver (Sep 17, 2017)

I figured that the crud would contain values. I saved all the scrapings and I'll incinerate and get the PMs. I'll try and make a video of the process. Thanks.


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## kadriver (Oct 31, 2017)

I applied some heat to the center hub (made of steel) of the fan (bonded plastic) and was able get the set screw loose. I bought a mechanical puller on eBay (about $25 all in) and got the fan off the shaft, then took the motor out and with me to Grainger. They had me a new one in my hands lickitysplit for $109. I installed the new motor and it worked beautifully. The globed light was badly corroded and dropping bits of junk down onto my work. So I removed the light, cut a rectangular hole in the fiberglass top of the fume hood and glued a piece of plexiglass with silicone caulk to seal the giant hole. Then I wired in a set of LEDs for a nice bright light. - I'm back in business!

Thank you, kadriver


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## 4metals (Nov 1, 2017)

Please post a photo of your "window" for the LED's. I am always interested in simple ways to increase lighting in hoods. It's amazing how much easier things get when there is enough light to see what is happening!


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## kadriver (Nov 1, 2017)

Got it Rick, I'll make a short video of it and post it in the tutorial section then make a link for it here when I get back to the shop later on. Im looking to buy an ounce Troy of platinum sponge, do you have any for sale? Thanks

kadriver


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## kadriver (Nov 1, 2017)

4metals said:


> Please post a photo of your "window" for the LED's. I am always interested in simple ways to increase lighting in hoods. It's amazing how much easier things get when there is enough light to see what is happening!



Here is the link to the video:

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=26270


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