# ISO single tool to remove fingers



## ilyaz (Jun 10, 2011)

No, not my fingers... And not my neighbor's...  

I have a bunch of PCI cards and I want to remove their fingers quickly and cheaply. I don't have access to a bandsaw. I can try doing this with a knife and a pair of pliers, but there is a better alternative. One crazy idea: can you use a manual tile cutter like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhDsFdEVg5w

Any other less crazy ideas?

Thanks!


----------



## Goldwasser (Jun 10, 2011)

ilyaz said:


> No, not my fingers... And not my neighbor's...
> 
> I have a bunch of PCI cards and I want to remove their fingers quickly and cheaply. I don't have access to a bandsaw. I can try doing this with a knife and a pair of pliers, but there is a better alternative. One crazy idea: can you use a manual tile cutter like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhDsFdEVg5w
> 
> ...



I found that a simple bench-secured vise works perfectly. Open the vise just wide enough to slip the fingers into it and then bend the card back. The fingers will break and drop into a catch container that you sit under the vice. Then toss the fingerless cards into a box, weight it, and ship it to me and I will pay full motherboard grade for them. Win! Win!




[email protected]


----------



## Acid_Bath76 (Jun 10, 2011)

I use a throatless shear, from Harbor Freight. It's fast, and you can use it for many different processes. You could probably find it cheaper though. Hope this helps. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/throatless-shear-38413.html

Using this tool, I can go through pounds of RAM/video cards/motherboards at lightening speed. It also cuts through desktop cases like a hot knife through butter. Such a great tool!


----------



## ilyaz (Jun 10, 2011)

Goldwasser said:


> I found that a simple bench-secured vise works perfectly. Open the vise just wide enough to slip the fingers into it and then bend the card back. The fingers will break and drop into a catch container that you sit under the vice. Then toss the fingerless cards into a box, weight it, and ship it to me and I will pay full motherboard grade for them. Win! Win!
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]



Hey Chris, you are quick!


----------



## Acid_Bath76 (Jun 10, 2011)

I think you were just wrapping up your comment as I was posting mine! Just checked out your site: boardsort. We should talk.


----------



## Goldwasser (Jun 10, 2011)

ilyaz said:


> Goldwasser said:
> 
> 
> > I found that a simple bench-secured vise works perfectly. Open the vise just wide enough to slip the fingers into it and then bend the card back. The fingers will break and drop into a catch container that you sit under the vice. Then toss the fingerless cards into a box, weight it, and ship it to me and I will pay full motherboard grade for them. Win! Win!
> ...



Thank you. I will admit I had that graphic already prepared. It is part of a tutorial section I am producing for my website.


----------



## Goldwasser (Jun 10, 2011)

Acid_Bath76 said:


> I think you were just wrapping up your comment as I was posting mine! Just checked out your site: boardsort. We should talk.



Acid_Bath76, email me at [email protected] and we can converse.


----------



## Smack (Jun 10, 2011)

If I cut them off as I am dismantling computers I will just use tin snips or tin shears. If I am going to do a bunch of finger boards (even RAM) I will use my paper cutter. Got it at a auction and its a tuff old thing, and I can cut longer fingers too. Had to sharpen it a few times. Whatever you use, make sure it's a shearing tool, you don't want to create dust from cutting circuit boards.


----------



## goldsilverpro (Jun 10, 2011)

In the early 80s, I once saw a huge computer recycling operation in Little Rock that had several women, full time, doing nothing but cutting off fingers. They were using hand-held power scissors, or shears. I don't remember whether they were air-driven or electric.


----------



## stihl88 (Jun 10, 2011)

GSP, Ive researched and tried to find a set of air powered scissors but to no avail. They do make a small shear type of scissor but they look to be slow and tedious. I'm sure theres some air powered scissors out their so if anyone ever finds any a link to the website here would be handy.


----------



## Claudie (Jun 10, 2011)

http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/Pneumatic-Scissors-reduce-muscle-fatigue-11972

http://www.amazon.com/Kett-P-1080-Rabbit-Pneumatic-Scissor/dp/B003ZDOPQ4/ref=sr_1_17?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1307750865&sr=1-17


----------



## stihl88 (Jun 10, 2011)

Beautiful claudie, the first link is what i was referring to that i couldn't find but the second link appears to be like the shears i would stay away from as they appear to require 2-3 snips to cut off the fingers which a bench mounted shear would rival instead.

The only problem with the first link is how tough they might be and how long they may last but i'm sure you could get some replacement blades.


----------



## Claudie (Jun 10, 2011)

I think they are a popular tool for cutting off chicken feet. I would think that if they would stand up to bone cutting, they should do okay on the boards. :|


----------



## dtectr (Jun 10, 2011)

I saw some used at turkey processing plants (Swift-Eckritch) to snip off heads - They were run off compressed air/hydraulics - I guess they'd work - Check the plants during their ONE down-time per year for used ones !! SNIP-SNIP


----------



## macfixer01 (Jun 11, 2011)

Hi,
I've used tin snips in the past to cut off edge fingers. I currently use end cutters such as those on the right side of this photo to break off edge fingers and to remove many other types of connectors and components as well. They're great for twisting IC's, small transformers, relays, dip switches, oscillators, and any other square or rectangular components off of boards. I use them to pop the tops off Eproms and ceramic DIP IC's, and also to pull the plastic off of IDE connectors over the pins. I even use them to assist in cutting the tops of transistors off. 

Or maybe check out what Harbor Freight calls a 6" Jaw Straight Sheet Metal Seamer. Basically it's a pair of pliers with 6 inch wide flat jaws.

http://tinyurl.com/3lnre6x

macfixer01


----------



## Harold_V (Jun 11, 2011)

Claudie said:


> I think they are a popular tool for cutting off chicken feet. I would think that if they would stand up to bone cutting, they should do okay on the boards. :|


Speaking from the perspective of a machinist, one that has machined fiber glass, they won't have a great life expectancy. Fiber glass is very abrasive, so it wears the cutting edges. As they round off, they require more and more pressure to cut, and the cut becomes rather ragged. That may not matter for the purpose at hand, however. 

Shears can be sharpened by hand quite easily. Just duplicate the angle on each blade and take a little off each surface. Look for a keen edge on the two sides that bypass one another. If the corner is rounded, even a little, take more off. You can sharpen them on a bench grinder quite easily. 

Harold


----------



## MASTERMIND (Jul 10, 2011)

HI everyone, I just found this GREAT FORUM (this site!) today so i only saw this post now so forgive me if its a dead thread now,
I like to try new tools just to see what seems to work best for different tasks and Harbor Freight Tools are a great source for cheaper stuff
heres a link for $37 air shears http://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html

I'm a total noobie in the metal recovery world and am very excited to have found you kind people to learn from- THANK YOU ALL! :lol:


----------



## jaythenutz (Jul 10, 2011)

love the Throat less Shear but 149. are u out of your mind. I was able to pick up very cheap (free in fact) an industrial paper cutter like the ones used in schools the sturdy type that thing cut great and a variety of length i think its 20 to 24 inch blade. i have cut at least 2000 fabs and still going strong.

being happy is better than being any thing else at all..

~*Jay*~


----------



## sera57 (Oct 28, 2011)

Get a construction sizer or ( hand clipper ) and you could cut of 5 LB of fingers in a hr.
Than go out side with a toaster oven set it 400 F and put the fingers on the try about 10 minute
you cold shake of the copper and gold fingers from the raisin holding it with a pier.


----------



## Claudie (Oct 28, 2011)

Hmm, I will have to give this a try. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## niteliteone (Oct 28, 2011)

Hi all,
I have been using my wet tile saw for years gives a clean cut with no hairs to hold your foils after etching. 
Also no dust and most of the waste goes into the pan.
Mine is a 12" pro model but this one from harbor freight will do perfectly.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-tile-saw-with-wet-tray-3733.html
Good luck. 8) 
Tom C.


----------



## MMFJ (Nov 9, 2011)

(edited to remove reference to old post)
I actually use the 'end' pliers that someone suggested (FYI, the reason they are called 'end' is that they are great for tightening up the end of the wire fence line - grab the fence wire tightly, then roll the pliers against the post to tighten and regrab if you need - you can also cut off the end, bend it to hold, etc. [go work a fence for a day, you'll get the hang of it...] - at least, that is what we used them for when I was a kid and that's the story I'm sticking to!) - they work really well for sniping off the fingers of cards too, though you can get a bit tired after awhile. For small lots, or portability (we often tear apart the computers out in the parking lot so anything flying around can be swept up later), I like the pliers.


----------



## Claudie (Nov 9, 2011)

Starting out, the price for fingerless cards was the same as motherboards, but it changed sometime later. That was a post from when they were still paying the motherboard rate for fingerless cards. :|


----------



## dtectr (Nov 10, 2011)

bookmark his page and check it daily like the rest of us. As he's explained before, payouts are based on what his buyers are willing to pay which is on PM prices.


----------



## jimmydolittle (Nov 10, 2011)

1. Do I have to use a blue vise made in China? I've only got a red one that's made in the USA..... 

For someone looking for answers, You sure sound like a smart aleck to me.


----------



## Smack (Nov 10, 2011)

goldsilverpro said:


> In the early 80s, I once saw a huge computer recycling operation in Little Rock that had several women, full time, doing nothing but cutting off fingers. They were using hand-held power scissors, or shears. I don't remember whether they were air-driven or electric.



Bet those were pneumatic snips for body work. http://www.cincinnatigeneraltool.com/kett-pneumatic-shears-c-47_27.html 
Should be better price on Amozon or ebay.


----------



## triffid (Nov 18, 2011)

I found an old paper cutter at a garage sale like the ones I saw in gradeschool for cutting construction paper and the like.I paid a couple of bucks for it.I planned on using it to cut gold fingers with.But have not done so yet.I do plan to hang on it however so its not for sale.


----------



## cleanbucket1 (Jan 14, 2012)

Heavy duty utility shears made by Kobalt (blue handles). They work great and you can get close to the green board without getting the added waste in your chems. I get these at Lowes.


----------



## Duxthe1 (Jan 14, 2012)

I know that bandsaw was ruled out in the original post but having recently used mine to trim fingers from a decent box full of cards, I can't imagine anything quicker or easier. With a relatively coarse blade, 14 TPI, it produces a decent chip of the fiberglass that doesn't get airborne. I only spent 50$ for mine used and throw the occasional 11$ blade on it. Add the bonus that it is infinitely useful in a home workshop where a shear type tool will be very limited in usefulness.


----------



## artart47 (Jan 14, 2012)

Hey, How's it going?
I just use a pair of large, straight-cut sheet metal shears. Works great. Do it inside a plastic 5gal. bucket cuz some of the finger pieces go flying.

artart47


----------



## yodarox89 (Feb 7, 2012)

Goldwasser said:


> ilyaz said:
> 
> 
> > No, not my fingers... And not my neighbor's...
> ...


Ok. Forgive me for asking this, but I have found that asking absurd questions seldom get an answer....but when they do you are better off for having asked it.

What do you do with the fingerless boards???? I have read multiple posts on here about selling scrapped mother boards and such to others who will be happy to pay full price.... What in the world do they want them for?? what else do you get from it after the gold is removed that makes it worth your time and effort?


----------



## jimdoc (Feb 7, 2012)

yodarox89 said:


> Ok. Forgive me for asking this, but I have found that asking absurd questions seldom get an answer....but when they do you are better off for having asked it.
> 
> What do you do with the fingerless boards???? I have read multiple posts on here about selling scrapped mother boards and such to others who will be happy to pay full price.... What in the world do they want them for?? what else do you get from it after the gold is removed that makes it worth your time and effort?



There is gold in a lot of the chips as well as base metals. A large percentage of a boards weight is copper. Buyers make money by going after all the metals on a board, but then they have to deal with a lot more waste.

Jim


----------



## Bluestreak (Apr 27, 2012)

I use a pair of $8 dollar shears I bought at Lowes. I guess they used to call them aviation shears or sheet metal sheers. In order to trim any green corners or overhang, I found my dremel tool with a small grinding bit trims it up nicely with the bored anchored firmly into my blue Chinese bench vise.

A bandsaw sounds great too! (one with a fine blade)


----------



## Geo (Apr 27, 2012)

Bluestreak said:


> I use a pair of $8 dollar shears I bought at Lowes. I guess they used to call them aviation shears or sheet metal sheers. In order to trim any green corners or overhang, I found my dremel tool with a small grinding bit trims it up nicely with the bored anchored firmly into my blue Chinese bench vise.
> 
> A bandsaw sounds great too! (one with a fine blade)



its the general consensus (and rightly so) that cutting a PCB (printed circuit board) with a saw of any kind is very bad for your health. the board contains many toxic compounds like PCB (a cancer causing compound) along with heavy metals like beryllium.


----------



## NobleMetalWorks (Apr 27, 2012)

1. OLD paper cutter

2. Vice, clamp the fingerboard part, then bend to break

3. Heavy duty tin snips

4. Sheet Metal Break

Not in that order, I have used them all, the paper cutter works great for thin PCB, the sheet metal break works awesome on anything.


----------



## Harold_V (Apr 28, 2012)

Geo said:


> Bluestreak said:
> 
> 
> > I use a pair of $8 dollar shears I bought at Lowes. I guess they used to call them aviation shears or sheet metal sheers. In order to trim any green corners or overhang, I found my dremel tool with a small grinding bit trims it up nicely with the bored anchored firmly into my blue Chinese bench vise.
> ...


That includes a wet tile saw. I'm not suggesting that it doesn't cut well---it most likely does. However, the mist that comes off the blade is loaded with glass fibers, along with anything else that gets cut. If such a saw is one's choice, it should be operated with a dust mask, to limit breathing harmful substances. 

Harold


----------



## resabed01 (Apr 28, 2012)

This is my favorite toy. A 6" metal shear will slice through boards like nothing is there. Also useful for cutting open metal encased electronics to see if goodies are inside. Bought this one in Canada at Princess Auto. They also sell a 12" model I believe.


----------



## Bluestreak (Apr 29, 2012)

Geo said:


> Bluestreak said:
> 
> 
> > I use a pair of $8 dollar shears I bought at Lowes. I guess they used to call them aviation shears or sheet metal sheers. In order to trim any green corners or overhang, I found my dremel tool with a small grinding bit trims it up nicely with the bored anchored firmly into my blue Chinese bench vise.
> ...



How did I miss this? No more cutting with a grinding bit. I did wear a dust mask but I will stick to my shears.

Thanks


----------



## Barren Realms 007 (Apr 29, 2012)

SBrown said:


> 1. OLD paper cutter
> 
> 2. Vice, clamp the fingerboard part, then bend to break
> 
> ...



I would have 2nd thoughts about the break. 

Since the PCB is much thicker than the metal normaly bent in the break, you have a chance of warping the bed on the break after continuous use therby making it less effective in bending metal.


----------



## Smack (Apr 30, 2012)

I'm sure he means sheet metal shear and not break. Break press is meant for bending not cutting or shearing.


----------

