# 2nd time gold attemp - updating live on forum



## pgm (Nov 16, 2010)

Hi 

I am going to do a live test, i thought if i took pictures while i did the test then i can get your comments on what i should do. So even before i start i am goingt o go through what i have...or what i have to use

1,2,3 liter beaker
5 liter jar

gold endz from memory stick (200) i have a picture

Bisulfate
SMB
AC
Urea

HCL 36%(Plenty)
Nitric 70% (Plenty)

vaccume filter system 
hot plate

step 1

My question is shall i heat up HCL in a 3 liter beaker then add the memory waste and then add nitric slowly to make AR 
or 
mix 4 parts hcl and 1 part nitric then heat and add in memory waste.

What do the people in the forum think?


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## Anonymous (Nov 16, 2010)

Normally I would say run them in AR,however if something goes wrong you may end up in a little trouble.
However since you did not list peroxide as one of your assets,then we will have to stick with AR.
I think your beaker may be a little too small for the volume you are trying to process.But if you can push down the fingers to around 800ml you'll be ok.
Step 1:Add just enough Hcl to cover the fingers,then add about 10% by volume of nitric wait 30 minutes.If everything has settled down then proceed,if the solution is still fizzing then keep waiting until it settles down.
Once everything has settled and there is no reaction happening,look at what you have.Is everything dissolved?If so proceed to step 3.If not continue
Step 2: If everything is not dissolved add another 5% by volume of nitric,and wait for the reaction to settle again,continue doing this until everything is dissolved......your patience will be rewarded.
Step 3:Once everything has been dissolved,filter your solution through a very good tight filter,rinse the fingers with (little)water and run the water through the filter also.Spray down the sides of your filter until they are clean.
Step 4:Your solution should be a perfectly clear emerald green color.You need to establish if there are excess nitrates in the solution.Throw about 3-4 bb's of urea in the solution and hold it with a light behind it so you can see if the are little bubbles coming from the urea.If there is very little or none,then continue to step 5.If there is a significant amount of bubbles coming off of the urea,then add about 10-15 bb's and let them dissolve fully.stir the solution and add another bb and observe.If still significant amount of bubbles,continue with this process until the bubbles subside.
Step 5:Add about 500ml of water to the solution,then add 6 grams of smb(about 2 teaspoons) to 100ml of water and stir to dissolve.Add the smb water to the solution and stir constantly for about 30 seconds.If you see a little red smoke its ok,that is any excess nitric attacking the gold as it precipitates,as a result the nitric is expelled when it dissolves the gold.However you may have to add a little more smb to "re"precipitate the gold out of solution.That should keep you going for quite a while.Let me know when you are ready for the next step.


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## 4metals (Nov 16, 2010)

Good instructions but don't forget to test. Stannous chloride is your friend!!!!!

When you get to the part where you think you've dissolved all of the gold, test the solution. If the solution has become saturated with base metals, your gold could be on the bottom with the stripped parts. 

Years ago when hybrid circuits were high grade material, I would digest multiple 55 gallon drums of granulated circuits in aqua regia and allow the acid to digest the gold and the base metals and eventually drop the gold. Then by decanting the spent acid, which had no values (which is easily tested with stannous chloride) we were essentially left with a mix of insolubles and precious metals. Another digest in aqua regia dissolved the gold leaving the insolubles to be filtered off and leaving us with a nice clean acid, loaded with gold. 

I'm not convinced, given todays e-scrap yields and chemical costs, that AR is the most prudent approach now.


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## Anonymous (Nov 16, 2010)

Its amazing,I've done that process a thousand times,I could do it in my sleep,yet I still forget something when trying to explain it to someone else.
Thanks 4metals.


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## samuel-a (Nov 17, 2010)

4metals said:


> I'm not convinced, given todays e-scrap yields and chemical costs, that AR is the most prudent approach now.



generally i agree, but with this particular batch it might be worthwhile...
he can expect 1.2 grams give or take. that's 51-53$ today's market.

Edit: ohh yea, great post mic !


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## goldenchild (Nov 17, 2010)

mic said:


> Normally I would say run them in AR,however if something goes wrong you may end up in a little trouble.
> 
> I think your beaker may be a little too small for the volume you are trying to process.



I agree with going straight to AR. If that is a 3 liter beaker that should be way more than enough to get the job done. I process the big fingers like from slot cards, motherboards etc. in a 1 liter beaker a pound at a time. I use only about half to three quarters of the beakers volume to get the job done. The AP method is cool and I'm glad I learned it but I will never use it again. Straight AR is so much faster and more efficient. You can also save even more on the HCL by diluting it a bit with water. Once you get the hang of it you can have a pound dissolved, filtered and ready to drop in less than an hour.

After thought
I would also only dissolve the material in thirds of the beakers volume. This way you can be certain that the layer you are working on is completely dissolved. Its harder to get the nitric to penetrate through all the fingers down to the bottom if the fingers are totally submerged. You will also find that much of the upper layers will dissolve from the foam that is created from the reaction. By the time you get to the top there may not be much more digestion needed. This is why you can process all the fingers with this method using very little AR.


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## pgm (Nov 18, 2010)

Thankyou everyone for the instructions...this is mic's steps.....

Ok here we go....

Step 1 adding 800ml of HCL and 150 ml nitric

Step 2 adding more nitric 100ml and then left over night...nothing was happening.....can heat up, but didn't, should i?

more pics today


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## pgm (Nov 18, 2010)

just another thing i tryed to make some testing solution and i messed up

took steves formula

30ml of hcl
2g of tin powder

i had 2 packages same colour but no label VERY IMPORTANT to label, ended up puting Zinc powder in but stopped when it started to fizz on the spot....i wont do that again.....


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## goldenchild (Nov 18, 2010)

I would recommend heating the solution to get the nitric circulating and make sure that all of the gold is completely digested. 250 ml of nitric acid however, seems excessive for this amount of material.

This brings up a point about AR that I would like to make. AR is created by combining HCL and nitric acid in a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio. However this doesnt mean that you HAVE to use those amounts of acid strictly. In other words if you had 100ml of HCL this formula dictates that you would need to add 33 or 25 ml of nitric. Your material however may only need 10ml of nitric for full digestion. 

In this case there is no way of knowing exactly how much metal needs to be dissolved which is partly why I recommended adding the acids in increments. I would bet even money that this material could have been fully digested using about 100ml or less of nitric. I will be getting 2 pounds of fingers soon that I won off of ebay. Maybe I will make a video :idea:


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## pgm (Nov 18, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> I would recommend heating the solution to get the nitric circulating and make sure that all of the gold is completely digested. 250 ml of nitric acid however, seems excessive for this amount of material.
> 
> This brings up a point about AR that I would like to make. AR is created by combining HCL and nitric acid in a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio. However this doesnt mean that you HAVE to use those amounts of acid strictly. In other words if you had 100ml of HCL this formula dictates that you would need to add 33 or 25 ml of nitric. Your material however may only need 10ml of nitric for full digestion.
> 
> In this case there is no way of knowing exactly how much metal needs to be dissolved which is partly why I recommended adding the acids in increments. I would bet even money that this material could have been fully digested using about 100ml or less of nitric. I will be getting 2 pounds of fingers soon that I won off of ebay. Maybe I will make a video :idea:



thanks for the update will heat up and then filter the lot more pic today...fingers crossed


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## Oz (Nov 18, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> I would recommend heating the solution to get the nitric circulating and make sure that all of the gold is completely digested. 250 ml of nitric acid however, seems excessive for this amount of material.



If he is using 250ml of 70% nitric he will have to boil off well over 150ml of free nitric that will not be consumed by the reaction before he can move on to precipitating with SMB.


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## goldenchild (Nov 18, 2010)

Oz said:


> goldenchild said:
> 
> 
> > I would recommend heating the solution to get the nitric circulating and make sure that all of the gold is completely digested. 250 ml of nitric acid however, seems excessive for this amount of material.
> ...



He sure will. Or use quite a bit of urea. If it were me I would use urea. I used to swear against using urea but for first refinings when I'm not worried about purity and just want to quickly drop the gold I use it. You will find that you dont have to use much, if any, if you add small increments of nitric to the HCL. Same goes if you use the evaporation method. Adding nitric slowly also keeps the effervescence from the reaction down to a minimum. This combined with a watchglass should amount to 0 losses in the digestion stage.


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## glorycloud (Nov 18, 2010)

Um, maybe I missed something but I don't see a fume hood
and for all the folks out there that don't understand that 
red cloud they are seeing us super, super bad to breath! :shock:


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## pgm (Nov 18, 2010)

ok this is what happened....

boiled the nitric lot's of fumes 

then filtered via a filter with cotton in it, my vaccume pump and the paper i got where no good cheap

added urea lot's when it stopped fizzing i added 500ml of water but i had little bits and bobs in it, so i decided to re-filter again using the cotton filter


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## pgm (Nov 18, 2010)

so i was ready for the BIG drop i waited for the filtering for 1 hour to finish and guess what...nothing dropped.

i might have too much nitric? i am at stage 5, now i have left it over night maybe at night something might happen.

anyone any idea's?


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## goldenchild (Nov 18, 2010)

glorycloud said:


> Um, maybe I missed something but I don't see a fume hood
> and for all the folks out there that don't understand that
> red cloud they are seeing us super, super bad to breath! :shock:



Might be doing it outside?



pgm said:


> so i was ready for the BIG drop i waited for the filtering for 1 hour to finish and guess what...nothing dropped.
> 
> i might have too much nitric? i am at stage 5, now i have left it over night maybe at night something might happen.
> 
> anyone any idea's?



You say you added urea until it stopped fizzing. Did you add more after that? You have to keep adding it until there is no reaction. You used an excessive amount of nitric. It should take quite a bit of urea to neutralize the acid. Let it sit over night and see what happens. If nothing is there see if it will react with urea. Oh and test with stannous to make sure gold is in the solution.


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## pgm (Nov 19, 2010)

this is what happened the site was down so e-mailed STEVE, he advised to add smb until there was no red smoke and then heat it up, trust me when i say i added a little every 10 minutes and i must have added 300g coz i was there along time finaly it stopped doing the red smoke, then i put it on heat. this process took along time but i have learn't never to add too much nitric did not need it....i think if i heated the hcl with the fingers then added 50ml and waited to see what was been eatin this would have been better. and add 10ml at a time would have been better.

ok i kept on putin in smb then i split the batch and put a small bit 500ml out of 1500ml in to a separte flask, to see why it still had nitric because it was just taking too long. i then added alot of smb to this 500ml and then added water to it 500ml and then this small black dust was at the bottom. heated this again and then waited and added more smb. now for the main batch i still added more smb and kept on going and finally it stoped giving off red smoke. now have left over night and going to check in the morning.

what i was really expecting was the coffee like material big chuncks of it and the colour to change like you see in the videos but this did not happen, well might be like that tommarow so time will tell, this could have been due to the nitric being too much.


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## pgm (Nov 19, 2010)

some more pictures


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## pgm (Nov 19, 2010)

glorycloud said:


> Um, maybe I missed something but I don't see a fume hood
> and for all the folks out there that don't understand that
> red cloud they are seeing us super, super bad to breath! :shock:




i understand i was coughing for a few hours but this was done in a furness which has a cheminy, but still you are right fume hood is very very important


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## pgm (Nov 19, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> mic said:
> 
> 
> > Normally I would say run them in AR,however if something goes wrong you may end up in a little trouble.
> ...




thanks for the info i need to learn about hcl and diluting it, i like the idea..


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## pgm (Nov 19, 2010)

samuel-a said:


> 4metals said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not convinced, given todays e-scrap yields and chemical costs, that AR is the most prudent approach now.
> ...



i hope i get 1.2 gram i have more to do, i really want to make my own button, not for selling but just to see that i also can do this process from start to finish.


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## pgm (Nov 19, 2010)

4metals said:


> Good instructions but don't forget to test. Stannous chloride is your friend!!!!!
> 
> When you get to the part where you think you've dissolved all of the gold, test the solution. If the solution has become saturated with base metals, your gold could be on the bottom with the stripped parts.
> 
> ...




Thanks for the testing info...should have really done this first this is very important....well now i have it and should come handy with pt and RH


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## nickvc (Nov 20, 2010)

I think the reason your didn't get the coffee coloured precipitation you expected is that the gold is very dirty as you dissolved everything in AR. If you want clean metal refine your recovered powder using the hydrochloric first and add nitric as needed.


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## pgm (Nov 20, 2010)

nickvc said:


> I think the reason your didn't get the coffee coloured precipitation you expected is that the gold is very dirty as you dissolved everything in AR. If you want clean metal refine your recovered powder using the hydrochloric first and add nitric as needed.



Thanks for the update nickvc, i have learn't this the hard way but wont forget.....what do you think i should do next filter and then add back into hcl and a little nitric and then do the drop agin.

what would be the next move? there are more pictures tonight....


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## pgm (Nov 20, 2010)

ok is what happened....got a drop but very dity

ok i had 2 batchs one with 500ml of the green liquid and 1000ml of water first lets show you what happened to that drop

the test for gold in liquid came back nothing no colour change...but i still added more smb at the end after filtering the powder and a very little amount dropped


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## pgm (Nov 20, 2010)

ok now for the 1500ml of liquid with out water this still gave off strong smile..very strong.

did drop but had to heat it up and then wait and it dropped 

test for gold and had a colour change


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## pgm (Nov 20, 2010)

this is what is left now i added some water while filtering and the colour has now changed to brown but i dont know if this is anything good so what do you poeple think?


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## Anonymous (Nov 20, 2010)

Good lord....is that a 4000ml flask?If it is then it looks like you dropped a bunch of copper with your gold.You need to wash the powder anyways,so that will clean it up(it there is excess).
Seperate the powder from the liquid by decanting(pouring off the liquid-carefully),then cover the powder with water and boil it,decant again,boil in clean muriatic and look at the color of the acid after it boils.Most likely it will be light green.If so then decant the acid and repeat until the acid is clear with no discoloration.Then boil it in water,decant and repeat this step 2 more times.Dry the powder and melt......Can't wait to see the button.


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## pgm (Nov 20, 2010)

hi mic this is a 3000ml flask, so i have the 2 filter papers shall i now put them in a flask and put some water to clean. the picture you see with the brown liquide has been filtered shall i decant that but there is nothing in the bottom i have added smb to see what happenes in the morning, i am hoping for something to drop.

what do i do with the filter paper shall i add them in a empty flask or shall i put them in the liquid which you want me to decant....

i have the following

2 filter papers with powder
1x 3000ml flask with the brown liquid

shall i do these seperatly or together...and how did the copper drop


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## Anonymous (Nov 20, 2010)

The copper may have dropped if you accidently added too much SMB.It's no problem.We can fix that later.
The only reason you would want to keep them seperated is if you are keeping a log of how much gold you get for each process.If you are not trying to keep track then you can mix them all together.Make sure you do not decant anything until you test to make sure it is negative for gold and all of the fine powder has finished dropping to the bottom.Once you have done this you can start washing the powder using the clean water and clean acid baths I mentioned earlier.......you are doing good bud.You are almost there.


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## pgm (Nov 20, 2010)

thanks mic

it's with all your help that i have come this fare this quick thankyou, how do you check you have gold in the liquide?, is it red colour or orange i have put up pictures. i will post again.

i will decant then when i boil i will add all of it in one batch this will save the head ache.


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## Anonymous (Nov 20, 2010)

That is one beautiful looking Qtip.


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## lazersteve (Nov 20, 2010)

The swab test doesn't look like gold to me, gold is a purple to black colored on a swab. If you tested with stannous after adding SMB, you may have formed sulfides which are dark brown or black colored, this is a common 'false positive'. 

Wiki has a good article on tin chloride:

Tin (II) Chloride

SMB will precipitate copper I chloride if copper II chloride is in the solution. Copper I chloride dissolves easily in HCl (muriatic acid). SMB will also precipitate metallic Pd from solutions with free nitric in them.

Steve


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## lazersteve (Nov 20, 2010)

Here's a very close photo of a swab that was purple/black that I diluted with a squirt of water to show the purple color:







The swab in my photo is from a dirty gold solution (copper contamination) containing about 3-5 grams per liter. This is why you may see the green/yellow ring around the stick of the swab in the photo. Notice how the swab in my photo has a 'halo' of purple around the purple/black spots. Before I diluted the test swab with water, it appeared jet black, not dark brown.

Your photo is dark so it's hard to tell what the true color of the test result is, but it appears distinctly brown to my eye. Try spraying a few drops of water on your swab and looking at it in bright light to determine if the purple color is present. If you see the purple color after diluting the test results then you do have gold.

A secondary test for gold is to place a small amount of the pregnant solution in a well on a spot plate and add a crystal of ferrous sulfate. A dark precipitate indicates gold.

Steve


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## goldenchild (Nov 21, 2010)

I wouldnt wash the power from the filters. You will then be filtering again and chasing your tail. More losses are also likely. I would put the filters into another clean vessel and digest with AR. This time adding the acids in small increments! In the end you should only have silver chloride(if any) and mushy filter paper at the bottom of the vessel. Filter this solution well, test with stannous and drop the gold(if any). At this point the gold should be quite clean. You could also incinerate the papers but I have a feeling that until you become more experienced in this, there may be losses with this procedure to too.

For the brown liquid. Let it settle 100%. Test with stannous. If positive add a small amount of smb. Keep testing until its negative. After 100% settling decant the liquid. Boil in HCL to easily get rid of copper chloride. Filter any power that may be left over. Refine this remaining powder in AR and proceed normally.


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> I wouldnt wash the power from the filters. You will then be filtering again and chasing your tail. More losses are also likely. I would put the filters into another clean vessel and digest with AR. This time adding the acids in small increments! In the end you should only have silver chloride(if any) and mushy filter paper at the bottom of the vessel. Filter this solution well, test with stannous and drop the gold(if any). At this point the gold should be quite clean. You could also incinerate the papers but I have a feeling that until you become more experienced in this, there may be losses with this procedure to too.
> 
> For the brown liquid. Let it settle 100%. Test with stannous. If positive add a small amount of smb. Keep testing until its negative. After 100% settling decant the liquid. Boil in HCL to easily get rid of copper chloride. Filter any power that may be left over. Refine this remaining powder in AR and proceed normally.



Thanks goldenchild for the feedback, i got told the same by Steve, the last time i did this...more pictures coming after decant....


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

ok another update


ok i took the brown liquid and decanted, saved the brown liquid and put some more smb and tested but no colour change.


i took the powder left once washed and added the 2 filter paper in a and added some hcl then heated, did this and added small amount of nitric...very small amount 10ml and then tryed to add 1ml but no reaction so stopped adding. the colour went green. light green

i also had some powder from my last test so i now have 

1 test for the fingers which we are currently doing and have started this post and

1 test with cpu, i did this 1st time round and got stuck and put the powder away, now i think this was dirty and just needed cleaning. so this is yellow in colour
keeping both separte just in case,


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

ok so i am currently 

filtering from doing AR with both samples

the green test is the fingers and the yellow is the old powder from my first try with cpu

i did stannous test both came purple

green liquid came out dark purple 

yello liquid came out light purple

now my question is how much smb should i add to 200ml of liquids for both, i added 6g smb last time to 800ml of hcl and 250 ml of nitric


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## lazersteve (Nov 21, 2010)

After the solutions are filtered clear (100% free of sediment) rinse the liquids into two straight sided beakers.

Next add a sprinkle of SMB to each, less than 1/2 gram to each beaker. Stir each with a glass rod unitl the SMB dissolves. If the color of the solution in each beaker does not lighten then go dark after the SMB dissolves add anohter small sprinkle (no more than 1 gram total). Stir again and let the solutions set for 15 minutes to see if they are going to change to a dark color. Keep adding small amounts of SMB with stirring, then wait to see if the color shifts.

Once the color of the solutions shifts place the beakers on a hot plate and set the temperature to low. Do this outdoors or under a good fume hood. The fine gold particles should begin to adhere to one another and start to settle as the solutions heat up. 

Steve


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

lazersteve said:


> After the solutions are filtered clear (100% free of sediment) rinse the liquids into two straight sided beakers.
> 
> Next add a sprinkle of SMB to each, less than 1/2 gram to each beaker. Stir each with a glass rod unitl the SMB dissolves. If the color of the solution in each beaker does not lighten then go dark after the SMB dissolves add anohter small sprinkle (no more than 1 gram total). Stir again and let the solutions set for 15 minutes to see if they are going to change to a dark color.
> 
> ...



Thanks Steve back in a few hours with more pictures.....


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

ok here is my update

i did what steve said and i have had a good result...i can see the coffee colour powder and gold little bit's inside, have to wait another 6 hours to get the torch, can't wait...

the green liquid gave lot's and the yellow liquid gave very little, this explains the colour on the test...dark purple is a good colour indicator...for gold


I would like to say very big thankyou to everyone who tryed to help me getting through the task....still got a little bit left...

here are some pictures


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## Barren Realms 007 (Nov 21, 2010)

Not bad, not let's see how it looks when you get it melted. Congrat's


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

now for the yellow liquid this was a bit of a problem but i think i did this wrong when i tryed the cpu's....it have a bad smell...like hcl and would hit your eyes when you heat it up.....

when i had the yellow liquid on the hot plate and added some smb it would act different ....to the green one...

the yellow had a colour change when i did a test...but not purple but brownish and i kept on adding smb but still not much dropped but test changed colour everytime.

the green liquid had no colour change when i finished


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## pgm (Nov 21, 2010)

Barren Realms 007 said:


> Not bad, not let's see how it looks when you get it melted. Congrat's



thankyou...i only did what people on the forum told me so without them i would have really struggled...

any ideas how to melt it?..shall i heat the melting dish first and then add it in or shall i add it in and heat as i go along.

i can get the melting dish hot orange and then put in the gold powder, do i add in borax or is that at the end..


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## Barren Realms 007 (Nov 21, 2010)

pgm said:


> Barren Realms 007 said:
> 
> 
> > Not bad, not let's see how it looks when you get it melted. Congrat's
> ...



If your yellow liquid does not test positive you might not have any PM's in the solution. If all else fails and nothing drops and does not test's of positive you can add a piece of copper to the solution and see if anything drops and reprocess it or use some zinc to drop what might be in your solution and reprocess.

Make sure your melting dish has been seasoned and fluxed. Add your gold powder to your crucible before you heat it up, add your flux before you heat the gold and you don't need to use a lot of flux if your gold is clean.


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## pgm (Nov 22, 2010)

ok here are the picture not had time to weigh it yet but i will try to do this today.

i think it will be 2g but could be wrong, i also added some borax and i might have added a it too much but dont know


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## goldenchild (Nov 22, 2010)

Well done. Do you plan on refining your gold again?


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## pgm (Nov 22, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> Well done. Do you plan on refining your gold again?



thankyou goldenchild

i am going to do it again but larger amount this time need to save on the nitric and hcl

i have heard of mixing water with hcl then boiling and then adding nitric, what do you think is this good idea? and if you think this would be good what percentage? 70% hcl and 30% water...i will be doing 5 times as much next time same as this i want to see a big nuget.....by the way the weight was 1.2g whoever said this was 100% correct.


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## Buzz (Nov 23, 2010)

Hey PGM,

Just noticed your location.

Are you based in Yorkshire?
I'm in Wakefield.

Regards
Buzz


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## goldenchild (Nov 23, 2010)

pgm said:


> goldenchild said:
> 
> 
> > Well done. Do you plan on refining your gold again?
> ...



I meant to ask if you will refine the gold you ended up with once more but I'm glad to see that you're hooked like the rest of us 8) If I were you I would try to recover/refine your incoming material the traditional way before adding another variable to the equation like diluting. This way you can get more practice and understand the "why" in all the processes or else you can end up with a big mess again. Also see if the way I outlined above works better adding the acids in increments and processing your scrap in batches and not all at once. Again congrats.


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## pgm (Nov 23, 2010)

Buzz said:


> Hey PGM,
> 
> Just noticed your location.
> 
> ...



Hi Buzz, well i am next door Bradford, i did live in leeds and halifax well a bit everywhere. So what do you refine or is it just research?


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## pgm (Nov 23, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> pgm said:
> 
> 
> > goldenchild said:
> ...



sound advice mate....i am now adding the acid in small amount and this is working better for me....less headache when it come to getting ride on the nitric..not going to be using urea only SMB..do you think i should refine the last small bit of gold again....you think it is still not 100%?


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## goldenchild (Nov 23, 2010)

It doesnt appear to be as pure as it could be. Not many people get .995 on their very first try myself included. But its up to you. You can save it as your first button or you could put it together with your next batch of recovered gold and refine it together with that.


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## pgm (Nov 23, 2010)

goldenchild said:


> It doesnt appear to be as pure as it could be. Not many people get .995 on their very first try myself included. But its up to you. You can save it as your first button or you could put it together with your next batch of recovered gold and refine it together with that.



i understand what you are saying but i can't 

i have a sample of rh + pt and pd all with assey reports my first ones that went good and they are really good but i did get help with them.. the same will happen with this gold it is more of the challenge i like. even the next one i will more be adding to my wall....after about 6-7 nuggets i think i will then be more happy with myself.

i was thinking it was not as shine as i would like but i think i know why this is....i washed 1 sample a few times but the others i had already put into filter so was stuck but i now think the first AR is to get the gold powder the secound time is to purify the powder or as washing it....more practice and more practice and i think i will improve quick.....i have just done a leach 2500ml of hcl and 200ml of nitric and still there is gold left on the fingers, but i have added in alot more fingers this time, i am trying to do it this time via memory and notes.....it should work like clock work....will upload more pics when i am finished..


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