# Black IC Chips - Again!



## glaucodobrasil (Jan 28, 2015)

Hi miners!
Sorry if this question is repeated, but I found so many topics that it was impossible to find out what I need.

I incinerate a lot of chips in a barbecue using charcoal until they got very white. After shaking and shredding, I got a grey, not white powder. I incinerate again and now the powder is little more white than grey, and I tried panning, but all I got was chunks of white, grey and black things mixed with the pins. I gave up the panning process and I decided using the AR the way it is, is it alright? Or I should incinerate until the powder get totally white?﻿

Very tks!


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## g_axelsson (Jan 28, 2015)

Welcome to the forum, you should slow down a bit and do some study. It will save you your gold and possibly even your health if you do.
The details can be found elsewhere on the forum, but the black chunks are carbon and carbon will absorb gold chloride, making it impossible to extract all the gold from it. You should incinerate any black chunks left until they are white all way through. Then it will be easier to crush and pan.

Göran


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## glaucodobrasil (Jan 28, 2015)

g_axelsson said:


> Welcome to the forum, you should slow down a bit and do some study. It will save you your gold and possibly even your health if you do.
> The details can be found elsewhere on the forum, but the black chunks are carbon and carbon will absorb gold chloride, making it impossible to extract all the gold from it. You should incinerate any black chunks left until they are white all way through. Then it will be easier to crush and pan.
> 
> Göran


Is getting hard to study in a so big library like this forum =)
Alright, so let me review it... I'm trying using partnors101 method, but I caught on trouble after the first water washing because the result was very different from his guide. So, I should continue washing until water gets clean, incinerate this stuff again, hammer again, wash again, and continue doing that until no more black chunks are visible? Then I can continue the rest of his process? I will not lose any gold doing this?


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## Geo (Jan 28, 2015)

Yes, all of the ash has to be white. This can be done in steps. Incinerate and then wash. Repeat until no black carbon remains. As the volume is reduced each time, the time it takes to do the next is reduced. Be sure that when you are rinsing, be careful not to remove any ash that is not white.


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## glaucodobrasil (Jan 28, 2015)

Geo said:


> Yes, all of the ash has to be white. This can be done in steps. Incinerate and then wash. Repeat until no black carbon remains. As the volume is reduced each time, the time it takes to do the next is reduced. Be sure that when you are rinsing, be careful not to remove any ash that is not white.


Great! I thought I was doing something wrong! Alright, so I have a lot of things to do before using acids... actually I'm building a fume hood from an old patch panel that I picked in an auction for these steps with acids. It already have two large 110v fans in the top.

Muito obrigado!


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## patnor1011 (Jan 29, 2015)

Repeated incinerating or repeated grinding. Your choice. 
If I do have BGA, I do repeated grinding as there are no other metal pins involved. 
If I do have mixed IC I do repeat incineration. This incineration is usually just a flame on bigger unburned pieces. If my material is smaller than lets say rice grain then I do not bother with incinerating, I just use mortar and pestle and grind it to powder.
I incinerate second time just bigger lumps which did not burn properly first time.


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## goldsilverpro (Jan 29, 2015)

To me, lily white ash is virtually impossible. A light gray when mixed is OK. There are other things besides ash that might give it a gray color. What you don't want is flecks of pure black or black in the center of what you're burning. Use a poker to break it up occasionally.


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## glaucodobrasil (Jan 29, 2015)

patnor1011 said:


> Repeated incinerating or repeated grinding. Your choice.
> If I do have BGA, I do repeated grinding as there are no other metal pins involved.
> If I do have mixed IC I do repeat incineration. This incineration is usually just a flame on bigger unburned pieces. If my material is smaller than lets say rice grain then I do not bother with incinerating, I just use mortar and pestle and grind it to powder.
> I incinerate second time just bigger lumps which did not burn properly first time.


Alright, so I will incinerate once more and then only grind and wash repeatedly.

Tks partnor!


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## kurtak (Jan 30, 2015)

Small bits of silicon from the actual silicon IC chip will appear to be carbon to the eye - use a 10X magnifier to check if it carbon or silicon bits

there is no carbon in this pic - there only appears to be

Kurt


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## glaucodobrasil (Jan 30, 2015)

goldsilverpro said:


> To me, lily white ash is virtually impossible. A light gray when mixed is OK. There are other things besides ash that might give it a gray color. What you don't want is flecks of pure black or black in the center of what you're burning. Use a poker to break it up occasionally.


Sure, my material is light gray, with a lot of black things after washing. I'm being a little lazy these couple days, then I didn't do the grinding with the washed material yet, but I will get back to work today. I'm using a can with marbles to break the material. I will try the poker to burn these things as you said.

Tks!


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## glaucodobrasil (Jan 30, 2015)

kurtak said:


> Small bits of silicon from the actual silicon IC chip will appear to be carbon to the eye - use a 10X magnifier to check if it carbon or silicon bits
> 
> there is no carbon in this pic - there only appears to be
> 
> Kurt


Your picture looks very green, not black as my material. If my material is silicon, not carbon, may I change the process?


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## kurtak (Jan 30, 2015)

I was showing the black specs in the concentrates - they are bits of silicon not carbon - this is milled to -80 mesh (very fine) so it takes 10X magnification to really see it (other wise it looks like carbon - the greenish/gray appears to be a sort of ceramic that is very, very, very fine (-300 mesh & finer) its the binder used in the make up of the epoxy - it is very heavy & impossible to pan out from the wires

Edit tosay: as far as your material - I don't know - look at it with 10X magnification & you will see the difference between the carbon & the bits if silicon 

Kurt


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## g_axelsson (Jan 30, 2015)

Carbon would be matte black while silicon would have a metallic sheen to it and reflect light well. There should be no question about which is which when watching a sample under magnification.

Göran


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## Geo (Jan 30, 2015)

Also, carbon is fairly light in water and the silicon dies are almost as heavy as any metal. The carbon will move around with the water and the glass pretty much stays put. When I said all the ash needs to be white, I meant the larger pieces. The glass will be at the very bottom of the pile. The silicon will not just float out like ash will do. If you are removing the glass, you are most likely removing your target metal as well.


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## patnor1011 (Jan 30, 2015)

Use this on your concentrate, much better choice than marbles in can.


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## glaucodobrasil (Jan 31, 2015)

patnor1011 said:


> Use this on your concentrate, much better choice than marbles in can.


Hey folks, now it is working! Muito obrigado! I'm using stuff I have in hand for this test, now I will buy a pan for gold and I will use something better for crunching.


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