# Is Corning selling replacement parts?



## Noxx (Jul 15, 2012)

I have a broken Corning Hotplate that I wish to repair. A few years ago, a beaker broke on top of it and it got inside. It was a solution of KNO3. I think some things fried inside.

It does not heat anymore but the stirrer is still good. Is is possible to get a new controller board or do I have to buy a new hotplate ?

P.S. Corning Hotplates are quite expensive, I think that I'll get a Walmart hotplate or something that's easily replaceable...

Thank you


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 15, 2012)

If things haven't changed, replacements parts are available. At a few places I worked, we kept them on hand because the Corning hotplates frequently went out. That was a long time, though, and I don't remember any details. Have you taken it apart? I seem to remember they were pretty simple to repair - often, it was just a wire that had come loose. The newer ones might not be easy, though. Corning has several repair facilities for these hotplates/stirrers. 
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http://catalog2.corning.com/lifesciences/media/pdf/HotPlates_Authorized_Repair_Facilities.pdf.


The Corning hotplates are terribly expensive. I think the top is made from Pyroceram, the same material the dishes I always recommend are made from. I recently read that their main advantage is they will get a lot hotter (550C) than most other lab hotplates (around 350C). If you don't need extreme heat, there are other brands that are much cheaper and work as well.


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## Irons2 (Jul 15, 2012)

A Pyroceram Casserole turned upside-down would make a good substitute for someone who wants to make their own. 8) 
The heating element from a chafing dish or some similar circular flat elements available from industrial suppliers and a light-dimmer for a temperature controller would be quite inexpensive. I use a light dimmer to control the temperature on heating mantles. A resistive load is just that,
Just make sure the dimmer has sufficient capacity to handle the load.

Pay more if it makes you feel better. :mrgreen:


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## Westerngs (Jul 15, 2012)

I have used Walmart hotplates for years instead of lab hotplates.

I never need to boil anything so the Walmart hotplates get hot enough for all my needs, plus they offer much more surface area. Also, I found they last longer than the lab hotplates, mine usually go between 1 and 2 years each where lab hot plates seemed to break more often.

The only advantages lab hot plates have is they get much hotter and can have integrated stirrers. As I said, I never boil anything, so that negates the extra temperature, and simple stirrers are much cheaper.


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 15, 2012)

I have gotten to the point that I prefer electric skillets for most things. Cheap and quite controllable.


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## qst42know (Jul 15, 2012)

When I'm not using a coil type hotplate and pyroceram dish I use one of these. Lab type pyroceram smooth top, electric skillet type controller. Dial reads to 450F. This one with a dish for a spill tray. :mrgreen: 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corning-Garden-Harvest-Electromatic-Skillet-Vegetables-VGC-/290742906733?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b1a0af6d

As far as your lab hot plate it is likely just a corroded wire or potentiometer.


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## Geo (Jul 15, 2012)

depends on whether or not he wants to keep the stirrer intact. heating can be done cheaply, and all these are good ideas. some times i wish i had a stirring hot plate.


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## BAMGOLD (Jul 15, 2012)

Irons2 said:


> A Pyroceram Casserole turned upside-down would make a good substitute for someone who wants to make their own. 8)
> The heating element from a chafing dish or some similar circular flat elements available from industrial suppliers and a light-dimmer for a temperature controller would be quite inexpensive. I use a light dimmer to control the temperature on heating mantles. A resistive load is just that,
> Just make sure the dimmer has sufficient capacity to handle the load.
> 
> Pay more if it makes you feel better. :mrgreen:




You MAY find this interesting....
http://www.ilight.co.uk/downloads/iLIGHT%20Binder-HowDimmers.pdf


I personally wouldn't use a light dimmer for a "high" resistive load... such as a hot plate. I would use a Burst Fire controller on a high amp SSR (I just so happen to have one for sale) Your power company may not be very happy, if they cared... or if they are smart, they may be charging you, just depends on your "meter" is it a Analog or Digital meter on your Utility?


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## Noxx (Jul 16, 2012)

Ya, I bought an electric skillet this morning and have been using it for 12 hours straight.

Works well so far 

Got it at Walmart for $20.


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## ntobergta (Mar 17, 2018)

Noxx,

Did you ever find replacement parts? I’m trying to find a new pot for the temperature control.


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