# First Gold Bar



## iis (Jun 26, 2009)

Hi to all
Why does my crucible have red colouration does that mean my Gold is not clean enough. The bars is 31.1gr
Thanks
Dan


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## jimdoc (Jun 26, 2009)

It looks more like a purple color in the crucible,
and that is gold. Looks good, and on your first 
attempt. All your studies are paying off.
Jim


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## Harold_V (Jun 27, 2009)

The color you see in the dish may not be gold. I see hints of discoloration on the ingot surfaces, but it's hard for me to determine if it's the picture or an actual deposit. If the surface color of your ingots is improved by a boil in dilute sulfuric acid, what you are seeing may be signs of traces of iron. I suspect that may be the case. 

The color in your crucible will be anywhere from a pink to a purple color if there is nothing but gold present. If it leans towards red or brown, you have other elements present, which are being oxidized and absorbed by the flux coating on the dish. Viewing them from a monitor, especially my old, tired one, may not indicate the true color. 

Nice job, by the way!

Harold


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## Strider (Jun 29, 2009)

That is so cool! Now that looks expensive! God luck with your job


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## patnor1011 (Jun 29, 2009)

jaysus hats off... gold bug bit me again hard


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## goldenking (Jun 29, 2009)

It means you take two years to getting master in gold refining it means I
am kid in gold refining .


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## peaksilver2012 (Jun 30, 2009)

If any of the guru's are still following this post, I need answers to questions that have undoubtedly been addressed but I'm unable to find them so far. So if it is redux, please forgive me.

1. What is the ratio of sulfuric dilution to use for cleaning off surface junk on gold button?
2. What " " " of dilution when mixing SMB and water for precipitation?

Thanks and as always, you guys rock!

Preston, your humble apprentice.


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## goldsilverpro (Jun 30, 2009)

> 1. What is the ratio of sulfuric dilution to use for cleaning off surface junk on gold button?


If the surface junk is an overall stain, especially on the top, it's an indication that the gold is still contaminated throughout and should be re-refined. I have always felt that cleaning off the stain is somewhat dishonest, since it gives the buyer a false indication that the gold is pure.

However, before going to all that work, you might remelt it and try to clean it in the melt. Harold is not going to like this, but here goes. When molten, add a small pinch of borax, let it melt, and add a bead (BB, prill) of niter (sodium nitrate). If contaminates still exist, you will see them rise to the top, from the center, and move off to the side. Keep the gold molten during this entire process. After it has worked for awhile, if necessary, add another bead of niter and keep working it. At some point, there will be no white film on the surface and the gold will be still (quiet) and all beautifully metallic. For those small ingots, it should take only a bead or two or three of niter. Never add so many chemicals that they completely cover the gold when they are molten. This is much easier to do than to explain. This only works if the gold is slightly contaminated. I have done it many times and it probably worked 95+% of the time. Keeping it molten, carefully pour it into the mold without pouring out any slag. This is easier said than done and takes a little practice. If the surface is still stained, melt, shot, dissolve in AR, and re-refine it.



> 2. What " " " of dilution when mixing SMB and water for precipitation?


I used sodium sulfite and not SMB. I usually added a couple of heaping tablespoons to a 1 cup Pyrex measuring cup, filled it with hot water, and stirred it well. It didn't quite all dissolve. What did dissolve was enough for 2 to 3 ounces of gold. I may be off on these numbers (the more I think about it, it may have been a 2 cup vessel), since it's been a long time and I didn't pay much attention to it then. It doesn't make any difference. Whatever it took was what I used. If I needed more, I dissolved more.

In other words, use enough hot water to dissolve however much SMB you need. This isn't rocket science - just get it dissolved. If you want numbers, weigh out some SMB, add hot water in increments, stir it, and see how much hot water it takes to dissolve the SMB. You can use cold water but it will take more. I preferred hot water. It didn't have a chance to cool off because I made it immediately before I used it.


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## peaksilver2012 (Jun 30, 2009)

GSP, Thanks for the advice. I'll just re-re-refine  since I'm still in early learning stages, so I don't mind. Doing small amounts 'til I get the hang of it. Learning tons in the process!

As for SMB, thx for the info. Just wanted to make sure there were no concrete ratios to use. Flying by the seat of my pants, what I've mixed so far has worked like a charm.

Thanks again,

Preston


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## Harold_V (Jul 1, 2009)

In defense of GSP's recommendation, Hoke, too, suggests that process. I tried it a few times, but found I was spinning my wheels more than achieving success. The principle is simple----base metals are oxidized by the niter, and the borax absorbs the oxides. It works, and always will, but it's a matter of degree. I never, once, got to the point of no oxides being developed, but had no problems achieving that level of purity when refining a second time. I never looked back, even abandoning the gold parting cell I had almost finished. Who needed it? 8)

Harold


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## Lou (Jul 1, 2009)

Chris,

It works much better if you premix your gold powder with some sodium nitrate and borax. A few grains of sand can be added to thicken up the slag so it can be held up on the quartz skim stick.


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