# What electric hot plates to buy for in side of fume hood I'm building



## Mitch2580 (Jul 24, 2016)

Hi guys I'm building my own fume hood and I am now up to putting in heating elements I've been looking eBay for a used lab one but there $300 and I've found a new non commercial for $59 please tell me what you think of it 

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Euro-Chef-Electric-Induction-Cooktop-Portable-Kitchen-Cooker-Ceramic-Hot-Plate-/162015684272?nav=SEARCH

Or perhaps let me know what you use and where I can get it here in Australia 

Kind regards 
Mitch


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## g_axelsson (Jul 24, 2016)

No good at all, seems to be an induction unit so you can only heat certain metallic vessels.

Göran


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 24, 2016)

g_axelsson said:


> No good at all, seems to be an induction unit so you can only heat certain metallic vessels.
> 
> Göran



Ok thank you I've found another one it looks very primitive but that may just be its best feature 

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Maxim-Portable-Single-Electric-hot-Plate-Cooker-HotPlate-Cooktop-Stove-Caravan-/111806652393?nav=SEARCH

Kind regards 
Mitch


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## jason_recliner (Jul 24, 2016)

Better. Me like primitive.

Apparently one can purchase on eBay a digitally controlled hotplate with magnetic stirrer and retort stand for about AU$80. (* Quality unassured)

I still use a ~30 old Breville, rusty, coffee maker with the upper section unscrewed. If you could find one at the Salvos, it would be ~ $5. It reaches about 110°C on the surface but won't heat a beaker of liquid to much over 80°C, which is perfect for PMAR or set-and-forget evaporating. I've spilt acid on it twice now, but due to it simplicity I am able to rinse it off under the hose and in the sink... which at least removes the layer of rust that comes with it living outside.

Days since last [stt]accidental spillover[/stt] rust removal procedure: 35

The point is, you don't need anything particularly elaborate while you're starting out.


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 24, 2016)

Hi Jason

My thought with the first post $59 hotplate is that it was digital and I would be able to control the heat better then the $30 one

As I'm only young I thought if I bought ok quality equipment now I will still have it in 30 years.

I think I've spent about $280 AUD on my set up so far that includes glassware vac pump and filter paper chems and soon to be 2xhotplates and ply for my fume hood .

I know this is not the normal practice for beginners but I'm of the thinking that good tools will also help 

And I think with out the people on this site I would of blowen my self up or poisoned my self . 
So I tend to ask you guys everything 

Thanks mate


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## Topher_osAUrus (Jul 24, 2016)

Find an old electric corningware hotplate, they are incredible. I have one for my house, but my wife would chastise me if i took it to the lab..

The oyster one i bought from walmart for 30 or 40 bucks has held up well for about 6 months so far, but, i believe its about to poo the bed. The other day i went out and turned it on low, when i went back the solution was doing a *rolling*hard*boil ...it somehow thought it was turned up all the way... I unplugged it, plugged it back in and it hasnt faltered again since.

But, the electromatic hot plate from corning is amazingly great, i believe Lou mentioned it before as one of the best ones money could buy. They stopped producing them in 1972 i believe, there are 2 different models, both would serve you well if you can find one for less than 50 bucks. Ebay is your best bet. I have only found 1 in my thrift store searches, and ive been looking every week at every store for a couple years plus.. ..thats probably why i have wayyy too much pyroceram

Edit=spelling


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 24, 2016)

A $15 Walmart hot plate will work OK. It should work fine until you spill a bunch of acid into it. To prevent this, always put the dissolving vessel (beaker, etc.) in a Corning Ware pyroceram dish and then place the dish on the hot plate. If you want more precise temperature control, plug the hot plate into a Variac.

All hot plates will eventually crap out in the presence of acid fumes. One place I worked had about a dozen of those old (new at the time) Corning units that Topher mentioned. Even with those, we were always repairing them - usually replacing the temp sensor or the element. Corning still makes the ceramic hot plates but they look different and the cheapest new unit I found is $225. Were it me, I would just get a cheap $15 hot plate and replace it when it crapped out. Another thing I've used as a hot plate is a coated electric skillet. Won't get as hot but, for most things, extreme heat is not needed. I don't know if they're coating those with ceramic yet, like the regular skillets. If so, that might be the best thing to get.


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## glorycloud (Jul 24, 2016)

I simply use an electric frying pan that I picked up for $10 or so at Goodwill.
I put a coffee pot on it and away I go. It has a variable heat knob on it so that 
I can warm solutions or boil as needed. Plus it also is a "spill containment unit"
as it has 2.5" sides on it. 

Best purchase I have made by far in stuff for refining!! 8)


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 24, 2016)

Hi guys 

Thank you for all of your advice I've taken it in so I'm going to buy the cheep one and a ceramic dish to put on top of the heating element. As I'm in Australia and we don't have Walmart or any of the other big outlets like you guys maybe one day they will come over here .
I think we have cosco at the Brisbane international airport but that is a long way from me . 

It's getting so exciting I'm only about 2 weeks away from doing I'm first process


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 24, 2016)

If the dish is not a Corning Ware pyroceram dish, I wouldn't use it. The one you pictured doesn't look like a pyroceram dish at all.. Pyroceram is the only product I know of that will stand up to what we do. Check eBay.


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 24, 2016)

goldsilverpro said:


> If the dish is not a Corning Ware pyroceram dish, I wouldn't use it. The one you pictured doesn't look like a pyroceram dish at all.. Pyroceram is the only product I know of that will stand up to what we do. Check eBay.



Thanks goldsilverpro 

I found them their not cheep but I guess you need the right tools for the job and if I ever crack a beaker it could save me hundreds in lost AR 

Do you think a pryxe glass dish would work just as well ?

Kind regards 
Mitch


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## FrugalRefiner (Jul 24, 2016)

Mitch2580 said:


> Do you think a pryxe glass dish would work just as well ?


Not unless it says it's safe for stove top use. Take a look through the What will hold up? Pyroceram thread.

Dave


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## Shark (Jul 24, 2016)

Plain Pyrex glass dish's won't hold up. They don't take the heat well when rapidly heated or cooled. Follow Dave's link, that is some great information and they are worth the extra cost to hunt them up.


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 24, 2016)

FrugalRefiner said:


> Mitch2580 said:
> 
> 
> > Do you think a pryxe glass dish would work just as well ?
> ...



Thank you dave I'll read that link now


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 25, 2016)

This is probably the best thread on Corning Ware pyroceram. 

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=23620&p=248945&hilit=pyroceram#p248945

There is no substitute - no other type dish will work, as far as we know. Great for cooking also. I think the new CW pyroceram dishes are marked "StoveTop". For most work, I prefer the square 5 quart or 5 liter size. When buying used ones, make sure the inside is not cracked or etched (rough). It should be shiny and feel very smooth to the touch.

The only time I've had one break was after heating concentrated sulfuric acid directly in it. I was wet ashing some filter papers and the sulfuric probably was 300-400 degrees F. This etched the glaze and exposed the more porous ceramic underneath it. It felt rough. The next time I used it dry as a catch basin for a beaker, it broke when I heated it. I think the more porous ceramic had retained some moisture, which expanded while heating.


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## Topher_osAUrus (Jul 25, 2016)

Now i feel special!

But, really though. Corningware is an absolute requirement. You never know when a beaker has had one too many reactions with sharp ceramic pieces that will eventually cause a failure and then, it blows out the bottom of the vessel spilling your gold and hot acid everywhere.

I know there are different names for pyroceram when across the pond (arcoflam), but I honestly have no idea about in Australia.

I have to admit that all of the information i got dor that thread was accumulated from corningware411.com and a couple other sites that are no longer available. I have spoke with Shane (corningware411 owner) and learned a great many things that i will update a new post on that thread eventually, when i talk to him next i will ask about corning in Australia.

If youd like, you can pm me your address and i can find out how much it is to ship to you, if its not terribly expensive i will ship you some pyroceram for free.. I have 100+ pieces (i buy it every time i see it), so i have a few i can give you. The same goes for any grf member that cant find it at their local thrift store for a couple bucks.


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## 4metals (Jul 25, 2016)

If there is one thing I could do over in my refining life it would be to recover the money I spent on short lived "high end" hot plates. Chris is right, these are the best. 



I know the catch trays are not pyrocream but most clients just go to a local store and get casserole dishes. They do not have the patience to do the yard sale for old pyrocream casseroles.


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## Palladium (Jul 25, 2016)

I'm a G.E. man ! In 7 years i've only managed to break one pyroceram dish and burn up one G.E. hot plate. The hot plate actually didn't burn out the temp controller went out. They are very sensitiveness to where you set the temperature unlike the cheap hot plates which aren't. They don't make these anymore, but if you can find a used one it's worth getting.


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 25, 2016)

I would wager that, over the years, I've tried about 20 different non-pyroceram casserole dishes. Some were Corning Ware. In every case I can remember, the dishes eventually cracked and broke, usually at a very inopportune time. I suppose you could get some life out of them but I would think you would have to baby them. I would always be worring about them breaking and could never fully trust them. With the pyroceram, you don't worry about it. You can abuse them and they still keep on ticking. You can buy a brand new 5 liter pyroceram dish for $42 and a lid for $6. Cheap insurance, as far as I'm concerned. About 5 years ago, I bought 4 ea, 5 liter dishes from the following company and had zero problems. I think they are the only CW distributor for pyroceram.

http://www.shopworldkitchen.com/corningware-stovetop/


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 25, 2016)

Topher_osAUrus said:


> Now i feel special!
> 
> But, really though. Corningware is an absolute requirement. You never know when a beaker has had one too many reactions with sharp ceramic pieces that will eventually cause a failure and then, it blows out the bottom of the vessel spilling your gold and hot acid everywhere.
> 
> ...



Can I just start with that the support on this site is unbelievable I am truly proud to be a member and one day hope to Contribute as much as you guys . This site is not just a forum it is a global family.

I have found some in Australia for sale but it is $280 for a 5L pot but I will give it a few more weeks of looking in thrift stores I have my family that lives all over Australia looking in there local stores.  

I was just given 30 Pentium 486 dx cpus I don't know if you process them as I haven't learned yet though we mite be able to trade 

Kind regards 
Mitch


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 25, 2016)

4metals said:


> If there is one thing I could do over in my refining life it would be to recover the money I spent on short lived "high end" hot plates. Chris is right, these are the best.
> image.jpeg
> 
> I know the catch trays are not pyrocream but most clients just go to a local store and get casserole dishes. They do not have the patience to do the yard sale for old pyrocream casseroles.



Hi 4metals 

That is an awesome set up you have there .


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 25, 2016)

goldsilverpro said:


> I would wager that, over the years, I've tried about 20 different non-pyroceram casserole dishes. Some were Corning Ware. In every case I can remember, the dishes eventually cracked and broke, usually at a very inopportune time. I suppose you could get some life out of them but I would think you would have to baby them. I would always be worring about them breaking and could never fully trust them. With the pyroceram, you don't worry about it. You can abuse them and they still keep on ticking. You can buy a brand new 5 liter pyroceram dish for $42 and a lid for $6. Cheap insurance, as far as I'm concerned. About 5 years ago, I bought 4 ea, 5 liter dishes from the following company and had zero problems. I think they are the only CW distributor for pyroceram.
> 
> http://www.shopworldkitchen.com/corningware-stovetop/



This is there price In Australia crazy the price difference I guess that's what you get for living in the middle of nowhere lol .
If there is one thing I have learned from you guys is use the right equipment.


Kind regards 
Mitch


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## jason_recliner (Jul 25, 2016)

Yes, eBay is no longer the second hand store it once was. It's mostly a small business playground now.
You'll be better off trying your luck in op-shops and garage sales wherever possible.


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 26, 2016)

jason_recliner said:


> Yes, eBay is no longer the second hand store it once was. It's mostly a small business playground now.
> You'll be better off trying your luck in op-shops and garage sales wherever possible.



Hi Jason 
You are right it is . I looked on gumtree and what do you know I got a 5L for $8 
A baking dish for $20 

So I'm really happy about that . The baking dish is a blue patten and I think going by that thread in Corning wear it's about a 60's dish but I'll put up photos as I'm no expert and I'm sure someone on here would know

Kind regards 
Mitch


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## Topher_osAUrus (Jul 26, 2016)

The baking dish you have shown is later than 60s, i cant read the printing on the first picture, but id bet its 70-74(72 thwy switched to a series, but alot of their baking pans [i.e. lasagna pans or brownie cake pans] stayed alive a little bit longer.

Visions is good in the kitchen, but in the lab i dont really trust it.

I tried a knockoff "corning pyro" which was actually a crap fake (easy to tell by the opacity of the dish... corning pyroceram is a beautiful white, the fakes look like they are sickly and don't have the right coloring) I used it for about 5 minutes, on the lowest heat setting on my dual range (like palladium posted, but "farberware" not ge) and it shattered, which made my evap pyrex shatter, and my copperas solution go all into my catch pan...not a fun experience

Only pyroceram ive ever had break (2 of them) was when i was incinerating with my torch and my stupid self scratched the bottom while trying to break up the syrupy mess that formed when the acids were breaking down. I scratched wayy too hard and it fought back, with vengeance. The other was a small one where I melted some gold in it, then sprayed a bit of water on it... It did fine the first 3 times, the 4th it gave in. 

I was serious on my offer, if you, or any grf member wants some pyroceram, i will give it to you (yes *give*...only exception is if shipping is 1 million dollars, i may need a little compensation lol)

I love the stuff, it has replaced everything in my kitchen, and in my lab there will never be another knockoff. Its not worth the frustration of failure to save a few bucks in the short run. 

As gsp stated earlier, any *NEW* corningware will be marked stovetop on the bottom, if it isnt. Do not use it!..even then, i dont really trust is, as it is a different formula of pyroceram. Not much different, but different none the less, it allows it to be thinner.
I will check my emails and see exact differences (ive been talking to Shane about pyroceram composition over the years, for the next update to my corning thread) 
ANY "corning" that doesnt have a smooth bottom is crap stoneware
Any corning that has chips, will fail eventually (good pyroceram can withstand [around] a 900+ degree c temp variance and hold up fine.
If there are gray marks on it, that isnt a crack or scratch, it is a metallic deposit from someone leaving their utensils on it. (the pyroceram is harder than the metal) -those can be cleaned with barkeepers friend or bon ami -both of those are also good for labglass (the best)

Think i covered all i wanted to say.. Anyways, corning pyroceram is second to none. Dont mess with the rest.


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## rewalston (Jul 26, 2016)

I have one pyroceram that I use to incinerate and as a double boiler of sorts with sand in the bottom of it. I don't have a hotplate yet for outside. Only hotplate I have is a coil type and don't know if that would work or not. I've been using a coleman camp stove to do my heating, etc on seems to work ok as long as I don't go too wild with it. But that being said I wouldn't mind having a second one larger than what I have. I think mine is a 1L casserole.

Rusty


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 26, 2016)

I've owned a few pieces of CW Vision Ware and it worked as well as the white pyroceram. I just didn't like the odball shapes that the Vision Ware came in.


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## Topher_osAUrus (Jul 26, 2016)

Rusty, your coil hotplate will work fine with corningware pyroceram.

Gsp, yes visions is an excellent brand of corning. My only issue with it is that it csn get scratches much easier than pyroceram (so it seems) and after they have a few hard scuffs and scratches they cannot withstand the thermal shock nearly as well. There are quite a few review sites where people were cooking at home with their visions dishes and then experienced a loud pop and it shattered into a million little fragments.
While i have never had that happen with any of mine (i have about 6 or 7 visions pieces that i cook with) i dont think i would want to. I still use them in my house regardless of the "testimonials" on the review sites, but, like you, i find their shapes quite odd to fit in my workstation setup. 

For what its worth... My pyroceram is 10000 times easier to clean up than visions too (even the ones that are flat and dont have the strange waffle pattern) it seems all the pyroceram needs its a bit of hot water and a sponge. Sometimes a little powder cleaner, but, more often than not, my visions need a lot of hot water soaking, and a lot of scrubbing. But, they are still great pieces.

Somewhere online i saw a picture of a visions pot that had an aluminum pan melting in it. It was pretty cool. I will try to find it again to share.


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## Shark (Jul 26, 2016)

> my visions need a lot of hot water soaking, and a lot of scrubbing.



Try letting it soak with one of those fabric type clothes softener (the little rag type). It really speeds up the loosening of food in glass ware cooking untinsels, unless it really baked dry, even then they still help quite a bit.


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## Palladium (Jul 26, 2016)

Notice at 1:18 what type of vessel it is she's dipping sand out of ! :twisted: 


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyhdMa1ikKM[/youtube]


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## Mitch2580 (Jul 27, 2016)

I have spent about 3 hours reading up on Corning wear and it is truely amazing what applications it has been used for :shock: 
I don't think that there is any substitute for it and for the rest of my life I will only use it and recommend for fellow grf members.

It is a shame that they stopped making it . It's all ways the way when something is to good


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## Topher_osAUrus (Jul 27, 2016)

Yes, when corning sold their product consumer division to world kitchen, it ruined everything. But, there was enough people that complained so eventually they brought "stove top use" back in to play. Just be very cautious of the bottom, how it feels and what it says.

The odd thing (to me anyways) is that they only make the pyroceram in their factory in France (where they initially produced Visions full scale, and where they make their ArcoFlam) the factories here, only make stoneware. So they have to ship over every piece of pyroceram, which undoubtedly increases the price. 
...oh, to be victim of one's own success.

But, yes, Corning is/was incredible... Lightbulbs for Edison, pyrex for the world, heat diffusers for the shuttle, nosecones for missles, fiber optic cables, astronauts glass faceshields, crt tvs....lcd tvs.... And now they are making things for the biomedical field... Not to mention the dozens of other things they have contributed that i have forgotten... Oh yeah, and pyroceram

I am quite the fan of corning. If you cannot tell :twisted:


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## Barren Realms 007 (Jul 27, 2016)

Topher_osAUrus said:


> Yes, when corning sold their product consumer division to world kitchen, it ruined everything. But, there was enough people that complained so eventually they brought "stove top use" back in to play. Just be very cautious of the bottom, how it feels and what it says.
> 
> The odd thing (to me anyways) is that they only make the pyroceram in their factory in France (where they initially produced Visions full scale, and where they make their ArcoFlam) the factories here, only make stoneware. So they have to ship over every piece of pyroceram, which undoubtedly increases the price.
> ...oh, to be victim of one's own success.
> ...



It actually cost less to ship a 20' to 53' container around the world then you might think. Especially if you ship enough of them.


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## saadat68 (Apr 9, 2017)

Hi
I want to buy a cheap hotplate
how many degrees need for refining ? 
For example silver refining.


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## 4metals (Apr 9, 2017)

If I could only get back all of the money I have wasted over the years buying hot plates from science suppliers. With the possible exception of stirring hot plates, which I prefer for dissolving salts, just heating for refining I use a kitchen grilling hot plate made for pancakes. 




They're inexpensive and last just as long as the costly Corning or other scientific hotplates I have used. Here in the US they cost under $20. I use them for parting in fire assays and digestions in beakers. Now if I could only figure out how to get one to spin a magnetic stir bar that would be a home run.


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## saadat68 (Apr 9, 2017)

Hi
Thanks
I don't think I can find this here. Today I go shop and see some hotplates. I must buy a hot plate from science suppliers.
how many degrees need for refining ?
If we need 60 centigrade or lower I can buy a cheap heater and if we need higher temperature I must buy a hotplate from lab shop


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## FrugalRefiner (Apr 9, 2017)

saadat68 said:


> I don't think I can find this here.


Saadat, one of the reasons we encourage members to include a location in their profile is that it allows other members to provide advice that is more helpful. You say you can't find an electric griddle like 4metals showed where you are, but your location only says you are on Earth. :roll: If you put a country in your location, those from your country or countries near you might be able to suggest where you might find what you're looking for.

Dave


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## 4metals (Apr 9, 2017)

Don't they eat pancakes in Iran?



> how many degrees need for refining ?



If it can boil water that is more than enough.


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## saadat68 (Apr 10, 2017)

Hi FrugalRefiner
Thanks for your suggestion 




4metals said:


> Don't they eat pancakes in Iran?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Here we use gas.Natural gas is very cheaper and about pancakes, No we don't eat pancakes!
I found a hotplate like yours in a Iranian online shop but it is 200$ :shock: 
I think a laboratory hotplate is best choice and today I will buy one


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## saadat68 (Apr 11, 2017)

I buy a 1500 W hotplate like this. But another brand
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kampa-Single-Electric-Hob/dp/B0029W4FB2

It has 6 degrees for temperature. 1 is lowest and 6 is highest.
It boils water with 5 degree in 5 minutes. I buy it for 20$


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## anachronism (Apr 11, 2017)

That'll work! Good buy 8)


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