# Mercury retort



## heavymetal

Anybody know how to make a mercury retort? Had a guy supposed to make me one but he seems to have stolen my money. Trying to get it back but never returns my calls or answers them. He's in cali i'm in georgia so can't just go over to his house.


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## Harold_V

I've built a retort------but I also have equipment at my disposal. 

Do you have access to machining and welding equipment? A retort isn't something you should cobble together-----your health is in the balance. 

Harold


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## heavymetal

I think i do, father-in-law works for a sign company, know they have welding, pretty sure they have machining equip to make the signs with.


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## Harold_V

A retort is nothing but a simple still. A chamber that is sealed, and can be heated, with an outlet tube that is cooled to condense the mercury. If you'd like, I may be able to provide a rather poor picture of the one I built many years ago. It's very simple in design, and worked well. 

It was machined from stainless, which turns out to be not the best choice. Mercury in intimate contact with the bottom of the retort had a tendency to dissolve the stainless to some degree. I ended up using a layer of thin asbestos paper in the bottom for each charge, which is best avoided. 

If all you're doing is distilling existing mercury, that may not be a problem. I was heating my retort to a dull red heat to extract mercury from dental amalgam, which required super heating in order to remove it totally. The higher temperature certainly played a role in the erosion. 

If you're handy with wood, and can make a pattern, having one cast in ductile iron would be the best of all worlds. The lid would need to be machined, as well as the face of the body, then proper clamps made to hold it closed while in use. If I was to build another, that's exactly how I'd build it. The clamps and screws could be made of stainless, which would limit long term corrosion. 

It's important that any retort you use have the ability to be sealed totally----to avoid any vapors that might escape. I used to use an asbestos gasket between the lid and body to insure there was no leakage. It lasted for a few repetitions, then had to be replaced. 

Ductile iron withstands thermal and mechanical shock considerably better than gray iron, which is the reason I recommend its use. 

You likely don't need me to tell you to be careful with mercury----as I'm sure you would. It can cause serious health problems, and even lead to death. 

Harold


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## heavymetal

I'd really appreciate the help.


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## Harold_V

Here's the picture (sorry about the poor quality----it was cropped from a larger picture of not great quality) of the small retort I built years ago. It's real simple-----the body diameter is about 4", with a flanged top, maybe 5" diameter. A larger size isn't real important unless you have a lot of material to process on a repeat basis. You can process a serious amount of material with one that size. 

I don't recall the capacity, but the pot holds a couple of cups, maybe three. So you get an idea of size, the condensing tube is ½" diameter stainless, and the cooling tube that you see on the condensing tube was made from 2" stainless tubing. There's a couple thin stainless plates on each end that are silver soldered to the tubes, plus two fittings for water inlet and egress. I used 3/8" vinyl hose for the water supply. and a small pump to re-circulate water from a bucket. You could use tap water and run it to waste, but you'd waste a lot of water. Water should be introduced to the bottom fitting and allowed to overflow from the top fitting, assuring that the cooling chamber is always filled with water. You'll notice a fabric boot on the end of the condensing tube. You use that, slightly submerged in water, so if under some strange circumstance the retort pulls a vacuum, it allows air to be pulled, plus by keeping it only slightly submerged in water, it runs out of water before enough enters the tube to fill the retort. 

The retort is held together by a half dozen C type clamps, made from stainless, drilled and tapped ¼"-20, with stainless hex head cap screws. It's important that an anti-seize agent be used to prevent the screws from galling to the clamps. 

Do not make a retort from steel-----it will oxidize rapidly and render itself useless in short order. Ductile or gray iron will hold up much better, with ductile being the better choice because it has greater ductility and can be welded easier. It's important to have a metal lathe and mill at your disposal if you intend to build one. I can also answer any questions you may have. I've held back on details so it won't bore you to tears. 

Harold


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## heavymetal

Thank you for the info and pic. Still looking for several things to try. The mercury sn't going no where and i will come into more as i dredge the waters of n georgia.


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## aflacglobal

Harold, Would a preasure cooker with the pop off valve removed and a coupling screwed in where it was with Stainless tubing for a condensor work. 

Just a thought.


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## Harold_V

Considering the ramifications of one that works improperly (leaking mercury vapors), plus the fact that you must heat the mercury to temperatures that will compromise the integrity of the aluminum pressure cooker, coupled with the possibility of aluminum being soluble in mercury, I'd suggest it's not a good idea. 

Harold


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## aflacglobal

They make them in stainless to. I would think that with a good seal for canning, that they should not leak. I tried. lol


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## Harold_V

The problem would come with the overheating the cooker, even if it's stainless. The temperatures involved in the process would destroy the seal, which is my main concern. I heated my retort to redness, but even if you didn't run one that hot, you do run them above 500° F, and I'm not convinced there's a seal made that will withstand the temperature. Even Teflon won't tolerate constant 500°, and I don't think anyone is making Teflon seals. 

There's too much at stake here to use questionable procedures----it would truly be playing Russian Roulette. A retort need not be expensive, but it should be purpose built (so the features that are important don't fail), not clooged from something similar. 

Harold


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## aflacglobal

Ahhhh. I see. I just didn't have all the design parameters.

Thanks.


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## Lost_Adams

Please Do Not use/store ??? Mercury in Aluminum anything!
In 1981, while dredging on the Middle Fork of the Yuba River in Calif., I had to be especialy carefull when I started to hit Mercury in the gravels as it would EAT/amalgamate holes in the AL slucebox. I believe this happened because the Al Oxide, that usually protects Al from harm, is scoured off by the sand and gravel. The river could have had a higher or lower ph than 7 and contributed to the problem, I don't know answer to this as my pressing problem was solved. I solved it by sucking up the Mg with my Sniffter Bottle ever time I saw Mg being sucked up the dredge nozzle. I didn't seem to have any problem under the main riffles and matting on the box. 
Hope this helps with question about using Al to retort Mg in.
PS At this time in my life I was Living off Gold Dredging!


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## aflacglobal

Welcome to the forum Adams


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## Ian_B

if you want information on how to build a still from stainless go to this website although it doesn't pertain to gold refining it does have alot of information about still making/makers in "Australia" (legal to distill down under)

http://www.homedistiller.org/ 

and don't forget to check the forum over their


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## OMG

Mercury "eats" through Aluminum.
Most aluminum will have a layer of aluminum oxide on it because it has been exposed to air, but mercury amalgamates with pure aluminum, so even if there's the tiniest of scratches on the aluminum, then the mercury will amalgamate with it and expel it when it becomes aluminum oxide, exposing more fresh aluminum to which it can amalgamate.
process repeats....


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## JOE S (INDY)

I can confirm Lost Adams' and OMG's warning about Aluminum. 

I have an Aviation background (military and civilian). 

Mercury is _*absolutely *_prohibited in all aircraft. Not "maybe, if..." or "unless..." but Absolutely, no _*exceptions
prohibited*_.

The reason is that if even the smallest mercury spill were to occur, the loose mercury will eventually contact the Aluminum structure (or skin) and will amalgamate (thus weakening) that Aluminum -- with catostrophic results.[/u][/i]


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## Irons

JOE S (INDY) said:


> I can confirm Lost Adams' and OMG's warning about Aluminum.
> 
> I have an Aviation background (military and civilian).
> 
> Mercury is _*absolutely *_prohibited in all aircraft. Not "maybe, if..." or "unless..." but Absolutely, no _*exceptions
> prohibited*_.
> 
> The reason is that if even the smallest mercury spill were to occur, the loose mercury will eventually contact the Aluminum structure (or skin) and will amalgamate (thus weakening) that Aluminum -- with catostrophic results.[/u][/i]



During WWII, British SOE issued a Mercury 'crayon' to their field agents. It was supposedly was to be used to sabotage German aircraft on the ground by weakening the area where the 'crayon' was applied.

A number of years ago, I tested the effect of Mercury on aluminum sheet, and it did indeed make it very brittle where the Mercury was applied.


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## Lou

Mercury and gallium metal and salts are both devastating to aluminum. They are also catalytic in their effect. I use mercuric nitrate solution for making aluminum oxide, quite frequently.


Here's a link to an interesting article:

http://theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/PopularScience/2004/10/1/index.html


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## PreciousMexpert

Hi Folks
I have read this thread 

I have been to google to get more info on this subject

Here is idea 1

http://practicalaction.org/practicalanswers/product_info.php?products_id=281

Here is idea 2
Hoke book page 189 is a picture of a retort

more ideas
http://www.sepor.com/new/retfrn.pdf?sepor=7386e4e25cff0507e77955c7c4385a70
http://www.machineryandequipment.com/pdfs/S731832.pdf




Hoke talks about using potatoes 
I really didn't understand that very much
Maybe if I read it another day it will make sense

Hoke suggests using a cast iron retort 
coated with chalk or painted with thin paste of clay


Hi Harold I read about your retort you use stainless stell and you say it wasnt the best choice
Maybe we could post that picture of the diagram again because its not possible to see it now

How about ready made retorts

There was a company selling mining equpiment that Raplh posted once
I cant find it now 
Maybe they will have something ready
Thanks


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## PreciousMexpert

> having one cast in ductile iron would be the best of all worlds.



Is this something I would be able to cast myself with a crucible burning furnace


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## Harold_V

PreciousMexpert said:


> having one cast in ductile iron would be the best of all worlds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this something I would be able to cast myself with a crucible burning furnace
Click to expand...

Very unlikely. There are some serious issues with melting iron in a crucible furnace. The chemistry of the iron is altered due to the burnout of carbon. 

Unless you have a very well built furnace with the proper burner, you likely can't achieve the temperature required to melt cast iron. Assuming you can, you must inoculate the molten iron with a magnesium compound, which causes the graphite to form nodules instead of forming flakes. The inoculation has a relatively short window of opportunity to function, so re-melting ductile iron will not result in new ductile iron, but gray iron, or even white iron, depending on the time spent in the furnace. 

In order to achieve success, the iron involved must have a low sulphur content, otherwise the inoculation fails. 

You'd be far better served to find a foundry that specializes in ductile iron and have one poured. If you had the necessary equipment, I would encourage you to make a set of patterns and offer them for sale. 

Harold


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## PreciousMexpert

Hi Harold
I have spent a while studying this concept

http://practicalaction.org/practicalanswers/product_info.php?products_id=281&osCsid=oiba76b9j52211nnuhnickt8q0

I really like it

Question 1
i guess I will be able to make the
# ½ - 1½ inch galvanised iron pipe reducer (2c)
a bit larger

Question 2 


> Transfer the recovered mercury to a proper container. To prevent evaporation of mercury while being stored, put a layer of water over the mercury.


What do you do with this

Question 3


> Wrap the amalgam into small balls with a piece of paper (the foil from a cigarette packet is ideal). This will help prevent the gold from sticking to the distilling chamber under heat.


I thought you it would need water but it looks like they know what they are saying


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## Harold_V

PreciousMexpert said:


> I have spent a while studying this concept
> 
> http://practicalaction.org/practicalanswers/product_info.php?products_id=281&osCsid=oiba76b9j52211nnuhnickt8q0
> 
> I really like it
> 
> Question 1
> i guess I will be able to make the
> # ½ - 1½ inch galvanised iron pipe reducer (2c)
> a bit larger



I wouldn't use that system unless you put a cooling jacket on the condensing pipe. As the mercury evaporates, it rapidly heats the pipe. Without cooling, you risk mercury vapors exiting the discharge. I wouldn't take the chance, even if they condense in the water. Some may not. 

I would also discourage you from using ½" pipe. It would be difficult to bend if nothing else. You should be able to buy ¼" black iron pipe at a plumbing supply house, although unless they have some nipples, you may have to buy a full length. 

Also, look for fittings that do not have zinc. They should be just as available, and will save you the trouble of removing the zinc. Again, a plumbing supply house would be the source. 



> Question 2
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the recovered mercury to a proper container. To prevent evaporation of mercury while being stored, put a layer of water over the mercury.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you do with this
Click to expand...

I was never that worried about mercury, although I'm not suggesting that you share that attitude. If you are concerned, store the mercury in a heavy plastic container with water on top. I kept mine in plastic containers with no water. I did use lids. 

Question 3


> Wrap the amalgam into small balls with a piece of paper (the foil from a cigarette packet is ideal). This will help prevent the gold from sticking to the distilling chamber under heat.





> I thought you it would need water but it looks like they know what they are saying


They're talking about the gold sticking to the retort, which has nothing to do with water. I used to use a thin piece of asbestos paper to isolate the contents from the bottom of the retort. Mine was made of stainless, which I found to dissolve slightly in mercury. You probably won't have that problem with iron fittings. They will degrade from heat if they are heated very hot, however. 

As far as the gold sticking, unless you approach the molten state, that shouldn't be a problem, although with threads forming the base of the retort, I expect you will have trouble regularly. I don't like the design, but that may be the only thing available to you.

Harold


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## PreciousMexpert

Hi Harold
How are you
Thanks very much for being helpful

Question 1
I don't know much about


Code:


 ¼" black iron pipe

Would I be able to find a container in this material

Question 2
You used 


Code:


 ½" diameter stainless

I suppose you don't need a


Code:


cooling jacket on the condensing pipe.

when you use stainless

Thanks again for your help


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## Harold_V

Not clear on your questions, but using stainless in no way eliminates the need for a cooling jacket. You can see it clearly in this photo.


As far as size of the retort body, you'd buy a bell reducer, so size is your option. You may have to adapt by using a reducing bushing, but you should be able to go from ¼" pipe to as large as you desire. Remember, 2" pipe is more than 2" inside diameter. A 2" bell reducer would give a chamber size about 2-3/8" diameter. You'd buy the appropriate plug for the size bell reducer. Does that answer your question? If not, please ask in a more direct method, using more words. 

Harold


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## goldnugget77

Hi Harold 
How are you
Those pictures are a big help 

I understand that the part where the metal is placed should be ductile iron
In your picture you have a pipe that is in between the condenser and the compartment where the gold goes
What kind of metal is this and it doesn't look like it has any protection

That thick tube the condenser how was that made 

Stainless also needs a cooling jacket

Also where is the cooling jacket


I found this site that sells galvanized products but you said galvanized is not that good


http://www.morrillinc.com/m_galvanized_fittings.aspx


Sorry for sounding confused when it comes to mercury there isn't many choices of metals and materials to use.

Also it seems like everything you do with mercury is hazardous

Would it be OK to refine when there is mercury in the batch
For example if there is 4 gram of mercury in 100 ounces of gold

Thanks for your patience


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## AKDan

I haven't read back through this thread to get what kicked it off, or how it progressed. But, based on the last few posts, here is some information on mercury, its hazard, useage, recovery, etc...

http://www.prospectorsparadise.com/html/mercury.html

a plan for building a simple retort, though this one does not show or have a cooling jacket.

http://practicalaction.org/practicalanswers/product_info.php?products_id=281

Another site with a reasonable plan view for a retort, this one with a water jacket.

http://nevada-outback-gems.com/Reference_pages/Amalgamation.htm

Action mining out of Oregon used to sell a mercury retort, but I can't find it in their catalog now. However, there are other items that may be of interest. In fact, they sell C.M. Hoke book there too. Price is high, but it is available.

http://www.actionmining.com/Catalog.PDF

This place still sells a retort. It looks to be a well built, practical unit that should operate as expected. From their catalog, the device sells for 129.00 or so. Look under the heading for Assaying and Refining Supplies.

http://www.abprospecting.com/

Again, A&B sells other items that will likely be of interest to other members of this forum. Everything just costs money.


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## goldnugget77

> Air Press (Air Tort)
> We developed this years ago for safer handling of mercury amalgam! Made of PVC
> which you attach to an air compressor, using only 12 lbs. of pressure. It pushes the
> mercury out and leaves the amalgam on the filter. Safer to use than retorting as there
> are no mercury vapors. Comes with a 4 micron polypropylene filter and stainless
> steel screen. Holds 15 lbs. of mercury.
> Cat #AIRPRESS1 Price 35.50
> Replacement parts:
> Air press end cap parts AIRPRESSEND $ 7.50
> 4 micron poly filter AIRPRESSFIL 2.50


This one seems like a good way http://www.actionmining.com/Catalog.PDF
----------------------


> http://www.abprospecting.com/


This also looks good I dont know what the price is
---------------------
http://nevada-outback-gems.com/Reference_pages/Amalgamation.htm
Hi Harold 
This looks like your system
The thing is how do you make that water jacket and what happens to the tube that does not have a jacket 
Why is left without a jacket
----------------------


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## Harold_V

goldnugget77 said:


> In your picture you have a pipe that is in between the condenser and the compartment where the gold goes
> What kind of metal is this and it doesn't look like it has any protection


The entire retort was built from stainless, so the pipe you see between the condenser and the retort body is ½" stainless tubing. It is one continuous piece, from the retort body to the discharge end. It has no protection because it doesn't need any. Anything between the condenser and the retort body will contain mercury vapors, but they are being transported to the condenser, where the temperature in the tubing drops drastically, so they condense. Once they have cooled and condensed, there is no further need for the water jacket (the large tubing that is over the ½" tubing), because it is expected that there are no vapors remaining. In practice, that proved to be correct. The fabric on the end prevents the retort from sucking water in, although in my experience it didn't work. I found traces of water in my retort when it was opened, but not routinely. By the time water reached the chamber, temperatures were low enough that there were no problems as a result. It's important that no water reach the retort when it's heated, which could result in a steam explosion. 



> That thick tube the condenser how was that made


It's important that you keep in mind that I am a (retired) machinist, and that I have machines at my disposal. The condenser was made from large stainless tubing, to which I silver soldered fittings for the water to enter and exit. To seal the tube, end plates were machined from stainless sheet, which were in turn silver soldered to the assembly. By circulating water through the condenser, temperature at the discharge was equal to ambient room temperature. 



> Also where is the cooling jacket


That, of course, is the large diameter tubing I just discussed. You don't want any cooling between the condenser and the retort body, otherwise you get condensing prematurely, where some of it will drip back into the retort body. It's very desirable to keep the mercury in a vapor state until it reaches the condenser. 




> I found this site that sells galvanized products but you said galvanized is not that good


Avoid galvanized material, which will form an amalgam with mercury. If you find you must buy galvanized components because you can't locate them in what is commonly termed black iron, you can remove the zinc using lye. HCl will dissolve it in a heart beat, but it also promotes rusting. Lye won't rust the parts.



> Also it seems like everything you do with mercury is hazardous


It certainly can be. While I didn't lose any sleep over keeping mercury in containers without a water cover, I still respected the fact that it has the potential to be a killer. 



> Would it be OK to refine when there is mercury in the batch
> For example if there is 4 gram of mercury in 100 ounces of gold


In my opinion, no, it wouldn't. It's important that you don't form any compounds of mercury, some of which can be extremely unstable. In all cases, they are harmful to you and the environment. Personally, I wouldn't process anything that had mercury included. I practiced what I preached in that regard. After my silver amalgam was retorted, it then received a heating in my fume hood to the point where it was molten. It was then stirred well, to oxidize the tin content. Any residual mercury was driven off. 

Here's something to think about. Mercury dissolved in nitric acid can form an explosive compound with the introduction of alcohol. Drizzle a little of that beer you may be drinking into your solution and you have the potential for an explosion. 

I highly recommend you eliminate all mercury before attempting any processes. Simply expelling mercury by force isn't enough. Once an amalgam is formed, you should distill the mercury in order to eliminate it totally. Said another way, you MUST retort to get rid of mercury once it has formed an amalgam. It can not be removed by filtration or other means, although free mercury can be. 

Harold


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## Platdigger

edit


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## qst42know

As far as zinc free steel tubing goes has anyone considered seamless steel hydraulic lines?

Some grades (wall thicknesses) should be very easy to bend.


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## golddie

> goldnugget77 on September 2nd, 2009, 12:43 pm
> 
> Air Press (Air Tort)
> We developed this years ago for safer handling of mercury amalgam! Made of PVC
> which you attach to an air compressor, using only 12 lbs. of pressure. It pushes the
> mercury out and leaves the amalgam on the filter. Safer to use than retorting as there
> are no mercury vapors. Comes with a 4 micron polypropylene filter and stainless
> steel screen. Holds 15 lbs. of mercury.
> Cat #AIRPRESS1 Price 35.50
> Replacement parts:
> Air press end cap parts AIRPRESSEND $ 7.50
> 4 micron poly filter AIRPRESSFIL 2.50
> 
> 
> This one seems like a good way http://www.actionmining.com/Catalog.PDF
> ----------------------
> 
> http://www.abprospecting.com/
> 
> 
> This also looks good I dont know what the price is
> ---------------------
> http://nevada-outback-gems.com/Referenc ... mation.htm



What do you guys think of these


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## AKDan

They work. However, you will still need to either retort off the mercury from the amalgam, or use nitric to clean off the mercury in order to get the gold cleaned up. Using one of the presses, or a chamois has always just been a way to extend the use of the mercury. By pressing through a filter you get the bulk of the mercury back into production while the small amount that is still almalgamated with the gold is held in reserve. Also, there is no reason to run all of the mercury throught the retort every cycle. The mercury comes off quicker so you are using less energy, etc... when you press it off first, then retort that which will not pass through the press.

As Harold has pointed out a few times here already, there is no substitute for a well built, well maintained, properly operated retort.


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## goldnugget77

Hi Folks 
Thanks for your the knowledge on this terrible metal mercury.
Hi Harold 
You're knowledge on the subject of retorts is very extensive.

Thanks for clearing up the confusion now I understand the concept very well 
I have the confidence to make a retort 
There are some important facts to keep in mind with retorts



> NEVER put the exit end under water in a catch vessel. If you do, a very slight drop in the temperature of the boiling Mercury will create a vacuum sufficient to suck water back through the system right onto the boiling Mercury. This will almost certainly create an explosion, blowing iron shrapnel, poisonous mercury vapors and your gold all over the place. Please believe me when I tell you, that it is a bad idea and extremely dangerous! It may well ruin the rest of your life and probably put you in the hospital (if you are lucky). One thing to note is that as mercury come out of the retort and into the mercury receptacle, the water level will rise as mercury is added to the receptacle. This needs to be noted so that you don't get in trouble with the problem of water being sucked into the retort vessel as described above.


I got this from here 
http://nevada-outback-gems.com/Reference_pages/Amalgamation.htm

Also I have seen this from a link Akdan gave us
http://www.abprospecting.com/
This is very much like the concept you are talking about
What do you think of this 
Does it look like it could do the job
Thanks again for helping 
I hope that you are also getting something good out of this forum.
Its always us asking the questions and you replying all the time.
Maybe one day we will be able to return the favor


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## Harold_V

goldnugget77 said:


> Does it look like it could do the job


That's pretty much what I was thinking. Note the discharge has a cooling jacket, which I consider to be very important. I would also recommend that you use a small fountain pump to circulate water. The intake should always be the low side, with the discharge being the high side. That way the jacket will always be full of water. 



> I hope that you are also getting something good out of this forum.


Just the pleasure of trying to help. I am no longer involved in refining, but I recall all too well how hard it was to learn these things. 

Harold


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## goldnugget77

Hi Harold
How are you 
Thanks very much for giving us guidance


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## JOE S (INDY)

Folks, I have finally found a small area that I can help with here. Finally!

Mercury vaporizes, for all practical purposes, at 350 deg C. http://www.integrachemical.com/msds/M560_005.pdf

Mercury, especially HOT Mercury vapors, react with Aluminum, Silver, Copper, Stainless Steel, Zinc and a variety of other metals (all to some degree).

Iron is the "Silver Bullet" (oh, please forgive me for that one!) in distilling mercury from amalgam. Use Iron and you will have no trouble.

I use black iron plumbing parts to make the vessel, reducers and cooling discharge pipe for the distilling process. Please note that I did NOT include any reference to any kind of a water jacket here. It's NOT needed to provide any kind of additional cooling to drop the vapor temperature to less than 350 deg C. where the Mercury vapor reverts to it's liquid state. 

So, an enclosed chamber, which will not leak vapors to the ambient air (for you and I to breathe) and a sufficiently long discharge tube to permit cooling / condensation of the Mercury vapor are the bare bones need here. Yes, you can add a water cooled condensor, lights, bells, whistles, smoke and mirrors -but those peripherals are not needed.

Of course, barring the use of a fume hood (wish that I had one) the only real worry is that of breathing Mercury fumes - and that problem is rather well resolved using strict attention to good ventilation procedures and common sense. 

Some still feel that they must use water in some way to """Distill""" anything. If you feel compelled to put water in the equation (wet rags, pools of water for underwater discharge of fumes, water "traps", etc) please use the old and true technique of putting a small 'weep hole' in the low end of the discharge tube to allow no suction of water back into the hyper heated distillation chamber.

Oh, always, ALWAYS store any Mercury or Amalgam under water, it stops evaporation of the Mercury over long periods.

http://webpages.charter.net/kwilliams00/bcftp/bcftp.htm

Joe


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## AKDan

Bouncing around a little joe  

I agree, the water jacket is not "strictly" necessary, but you have to admit it does help. You don't have to have quite as long of a tube on bigger batches, or for longer runs on lots of material. The process seems, for me, to go quicker with a unit that has a water jacket.

Good call too on the black iron only for the retort. Folks not working with mercury that much don't realize just how many common substances that it does react with, some violently. Aluminum being one of the big offenders.

One thing you didn't mention was thread sealing at all the joints. Once the black iron is heated a few times, rust and oxidation start to be an issue at all the joints. A good joint compound applied to the parts that do come apart with every run becomes necessary to eliminate/minimize vapor leaks.

How about some pictures of your cleanups from this year?


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## Harold_V

JOE S (INDY) said:


> Of course, barring the use of a fume hood (wish that I had one) the only real worry is that of breathing Mercury fumes - and that problem is rather well resolved using strict attention to good ventilation procedures and common sense.


Yes. Common sense. That includes providing a cooling jacket. To imply that it isn't necessary isn't the smartest thing you've had to say. It's a lot like telling readers that seat belts, in cars, aren't really necessary, either. 

What a cooling jacket does is INSURE that there will be a sufficient temperature drop between the retort and the discharge to insure that there are no fumes escaping. 

I'm not suggesting that a fume hood isn't a good idea, but a cooling jacket on a retort is much cheaper, and stops the problem instead of changing the nature of the problem. Keeping fumes from escaping is far better than re-directing escaped fumes. 

I strongly advise a cooling jacket for retorting mercury. That's especially true if it is retorted in volume.

Harold


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## dick b

Here's one for sale on ebay. It might give you some ideas to copy or you can just buy it and save some headaches.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mercury-Retort_W0QQitemZ190345353535QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c5177993f

I don't know how it works or if it works. Just seen it for sale and rembered it.

Good luck.
dickb


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## AlanInMo

Here's some pictures of my retort, (store bought) that you can use as a template for your project.


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## EVO-AU

Anybody ever see the small retort that Rockpecker built anld used many years ago. Found it in his book,"Rockpeckers Notes".. Yes, I built one, no cooling tube and I never had any trouble with it. Very simple to construct. Used it several times. Very effective. However, Hg is not in my arsenal of recovery anymore. And to those who still play with the stuff, you deserve what you reap. Phill


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## EVO-AU

alaninmo: Punch this into your wandering keyboard and really have fun.

"Borax replacing mercury in small scale mining."

Believe me, this method is a joy. Phill


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## patnor1011

there she is:


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## AlanInMo

Thanks for the pdf guys, interesting... I'll have to give that a try.. The gas blow torch works on the same principle as a gas *Coleman* lantern (just on a larger scale).


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## saadat68

Harold_V said:


> Mercury in intimate contact with the bottom of the retort had a tendency to dissolve the stainless to some degree





Harold_V said:


> Avoid galvanized material, which will form an amalgam with mercury. If you find you must buy galvanized components because you can't locate them in what is commonly termed black iron, you can remove the zinc using lye. HCl will dissolve it in a heart beat, but it also promotes rusting. Lye won't rust the parts.


Hi
I want to make mercury retort for silver oxide batteries ( they contains 7 gram per kilo after cementation ) 
I couldn't find iron caps and fittings 
My pipe is stainless steel ( I think ) and caps are galvanized. For galvanized fittings you said I can remove zinc with lye. What is lye concentrate and is it necessary for my work ?

What problems I will have with stainless steel body of retort ?

Thanks


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## kernels

Another very simple DIY retort worth consideration is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KL9deyMSzs8&list=PL3abwjc2nPD9e1LNizx-4I8lFdph7dELo

Basically designed to be made in 3rd world areas by small scale miners from scrap metal.


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## saadat68

Thanks but I want to build a bigger and better retort


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