# For crushing ceramic chips?



## Paige (Apr 25, 2007)

One lady wants plans for a ball mill for $40. Does anyone have other ideas on how to crush chips into dust? I saw a nuts & bolts falling inside a 14" steel pipe with a slanted angle iron to raise the nuts & bolts up to fall on the chips. Does anyone know how this works. Anyway to run it quiet?

Thank you.

Paige


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## jimdoc (Apr 25, 2007)

There are plans on the web, I think most
are for pyrotechnics, but will work the
same for our purpose. I have them on my
laptop and will post the links when I find them,
or they should be easy enough to find with a 
web search on; ball mill plans, or build a ball mill,
or build grinder or crusher, also.


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## jimdoc (Apr 25, 2007)

Don't buy the plans for $40 from megan rose, I am sure
you can get the same or better for free online. She wants
way too much for everything she sells.


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## lazersteve (Apr 25, 2007)

Here's a topic on the forum where this was discussed:

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=2384&highlight=#2384

Be sure to scroll up and read the whole thread.

Steve


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## jimdoc (Apr 25, 2007)

Here are some links that will probably be better than $40.

http://www.unitednuclear.com/ballmill.htm
http://www.pyrotechniques.org/dwilliams/mill/mill.html
http://www.privatedata.com/byb/pyro/ballmill/
http://www.abymc.com/Articles/Submitted/Ballmill.html


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## Harold_V (Apr 26, 2007)

Paige said:


> One lady wants plans for a ball mill for $40. Does anyone have other ideas on how to crush chips into dust? I saw a nuts & bolts falling inside a 14" steel pipe with a slanted angle iron to raise the nuts & bolts up to fall on the chips. Does anyone know how this works. Anyway to run it quiet?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Paige



Ball mills are designed to run at a particular speed. When you run at the proper velocity, the charge and balls are taken to the top of the drum, at which time they fall, crushing the contents. If you run too fast or too slow, you don't get the proper action and the mill is ineffective. Rose's The Metallurgy of Gold discusses the theory of ball mills and will provide the needed information for you to determine the speed for one of your design. 

I'm of the opinion, having run one successfully, that anything you add to the interior in the way of lifting devices will simply deter the proper action. It's very important for the falling balls to land on the objects being crushed. If you have lifting devices, they'll deflect the balls or other objects you've chosen to do the work. Processing time will be drastically prolonged. Much easier to run at the right speed and not include the lifters. Also, the larger the balls, the faster the initial reduction, but small balls will take the material to a fine powder quicker. It's not a bad idea to have a charge of mixed sizes so you get good action at both ends of the spectrum. That worked very well for the mill in the picture. 

Be advised. They are VERY noisy! If you live in a sub-division, unless you build an extremely small one, you will get complaints from neighbors. I had to wear ear protection when running this one. Conversation in the room was impossible. 

As the size of a ball mill diminishes, it will lose it's effectiveness. You might keep that in mind as you determine an ideal size for your needs. 

Harold


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## darkelf2x1 (Apr 26, 2007)

i use a manual rock crusher to crush things, so far no problems... you can get a pretty fine dust out of it then i further process it with a hand held crusher to get some of the smaller chunks left over - if i try to crush everything to fine powder at once i just get everything packed - plus crushing small amounts at a time makes it easier to spot stuff


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## rainmaker (Apr 26, 2007)

I was in touch with "Action Mining Supply" in Sandy, OR today about this. They sell a impact mill for reducing ore to -400. I asked about processing scrap and Mike suggested mulching the boards to -1/2" then processing them with a impact mill. I did a Google on mulch and found a photo and crude plans of one made from a discarded lawn mower that I thought was interesting and might be modified for this use.

I would post a PDF of it but I have had little sucess doing that in the past. I anyone more proficient at this posting thing than I am (probably most everyone) would like to post the JPG please pm me and I'll send it to you to share here.

Rainmaker


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## darkelf2x1 (Apr 26, 2007)

shoot away


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## aflacglobal (Apr 29, 2007)

OK please don't yell at me but maybe i can help.

Here's an idea i had but never got around to.
Needle guns , any one know what they are ?
short order, they are hell at what they are designed for.
They run on air. 
these are expensive on the link i will post but, you can get a cheap one that will do the trick for about $ 50- $ 75.
strikes per minute 2000-6000.
depending on the needle size 14-40 needles. let see 6000 SPM @ 40 needles =
that 240,000 individual strikes per minute.
That should get you where you want to be. lol
Kick it around you will have to perfect it i just recommend it.
Let me know what you think.
http://www.michiganpneumatic.com/customer/mipnto/pdf/scalers.pdf

Thanks gentlemen.
Ralph


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## goldsilverpro (Apr 29, 2007)

Needle guns are quite powerful. I used to use them to remove slag from ingots. They might break up IC's. The problem is to confine the material so it doesn't fly all over. Your chamber might just work. Not a bad idea.


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## Harold_V (Apr 29, 2007)

All depends on where the (needle) scaler discharges spent air, doesn't it? 

If it's towards the needles, not only would it create one hell of a dusty mess, you'd contaminate the charge with oil from the properly lubricated air source. 

Harold


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## lmills148 (May 23, 2007)

I was thinking of using a blender


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## Fever (May 23, 2007)

lmills148 said:


> I was thinking of using a blender



Not a bad idea, actually :wink: 

Although, unless it's a blender from hell, I doubt it would last for long. Maybe if you fabricated a cutom heavy duty impeller, but the motor would surely give out before long.

Now, if you were to build one from scratch, with super human components, then we're on to something......

Fever


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## austexjwlry (Jun 12, 2007)

This is a crusher I use to make glass frit. It also works well for ceramic caps, rubber type silver caps etc. anything you can put in it.
Its body is 2" galvinized pipe 12" long with cap to fit. 
The ramrod is 1" galvinized pipe 18" long with cap on one or both ends.
You put parts in bodies cap, then screw on body holding body verticaly.
Insert ramrod hold vertically, jack up & down to crush parts.
Works very well but is a lot of work.
You can make larger crusher to crush processers,just buy larger pipe.
Can also use black iron gas pipe but costs more.
Glass workers also make frit by throwing chunks of glass in kitchen type electric trash disposals, might work for plastic or rubber coated parts just to expose to acid. Maybe it would work on ceramic caps, but might be too hard on blades.


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## austexjwlry (Jun 12, 2007)

Put about 1/2 oz small parts in cap or less.


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## austexjwlry (Jun 12, 2007)

You will create some dust out of top when crushing,might want to wear at least a dustmask or doing outside is even better!
I hope my description is not so simple that I offend anyone!


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## lazersteve (Jun 12, 2007)

Do you have a photo of the scrap after it's crushed so we can see how fine it gets?

Nice setup.

Steve


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## lmills148 (Jun 12, 2007)

Although, unless it's a blender from hell, I doubt it would last for long. Maybe if you fabricated a cutom heavy duty impeller, but the motor would surely give out before long. 

Are they really that hard?

Maybe something like this.
http://www.silverson.com/USA/Products/LabMixers.cfm


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## Anonymous (Jul 31, 2007)

Hi new here.

Just thought I would throw in a couple links to some home made ballmills.

http://www.unitednuclear.com/ballmill.htm

And here.
http://www.vk2zay.net/article.php/36

Dgoldboy


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## goldsilverpro (Jul 31, 2007)

I can't imagine those plastic ball mills, in the links, being heavy duty enough. I think they're mainly for slow grinding and polishing stones. I would think you would need at least 3/8" steel and an assortment of good sized balls. Something like Harold built. A photo of it was on the forum. I tried grinding ceramic CPU packages in a heavy duty ball mill a little bigger than Harold's and it took a good 2 hours. You need more of a crushing action than a grinding action.

We once had a large set of powered, adjustable, steel rolls, originally used for some sort of paint manufacturing. If I remember right, the 2 rolls were about 6" in diameter X 12" long. They were mounted side by side to each other, rather than one above the other. We had a hopper that fed the parts into the rolls, from the top. We mainly ran alumina ceramic, side brazed, IC packages through them. Crushed them into about 1/8" -1/4" pieces in one pass. Worked great and was fairly fast. Didn't damage the steel rolls very much. Usually, they ran most all day.


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## Harold_V (Jul 31, 2007)

goldsilverpro said:


> You need more of a crushing action than a grinding action.



Absolutely! Anything less is a huge mistake and will serve poorly, if at all. The dynamics of crushing abrasive substances dictates that you must hammer the pieces, not abrade them. If a ball mill runs at the improper speed, pieces are worn down, not crushed. Such action is tough on the mill, wearing away the much softer steel instead of crushing the charged material. It is for that reason that a burnishing machine or tumbler will not serve well to crush ores or ceramics.

A ball mill that runs at the proper speed runs the charge near the apex, then drops it. It is that dropping (hammering) action that does the crushing, not a rolling action. 

An alternative to a shredder (blender) would be a hammer mill, where weighted hammers are spun on pivots, and don't rely on keen edges to reduce the size of the charged materials. In both instances (ball mill or hammer mill) the device must be constructed of substantial material if a decent service life is expected. 

Building such devices is not beyond the ability of a basically equipped welding shop, assuming good engineering practice was employed. There are self aligning bearings on the market that would eliminate the need for machining the trunnions, assuming they can be welded on the drum with reasonable precision. Machining is best, but not always an option. 

Harold


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## rainmaker (Jul 31, 2007)

Seems like a person might be able to invert a inline internal combustion engine, remove the head, resurface the piston heads with a hard material, attach a low speed electric motor to the crank and make a serviceable hammer mill. 

Just a thought  

Rainmaker


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## Harold_V (Aug 1, 2007)

Not a very good one, however. The strength of the entire engine would be woefully lacking. Pistons are way too soft and weak to support the loads, as are the heads and walls of the cylinders. Not sure the rods would be happy, either. You'd end up with busted components quite quickly. Think what happens when a valve floats. 

Worse yet, small bits would instantly wedge between the cylinders and pistons, stopping the entire operation in short order. 

Harold


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## CFirehawk (Aug 5, 2007)

Check out http://www.willitblend.com Even if sheerly for entertainment purposes to watch their blender-abusive videos or for the woefully impatient. I mean, look at what it does to complete electronic devices. POWDER. In about a minute rather than overnight in a ball mill. They're expensive but when you require a rapid yield you won't get any more rapid than that. Past that, watching some guy totally obliterate random objects in a blender is a joy unto itself.


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## aflacglobal (Aug 5, 2007)

That is one mean ass blender.


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## lazersteve (Aug 5, 2007)

I love this post! :lol: 

I put in a request to see if a 486 ceramic cpu will blend. We'll see if they respond.

Steve


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## aflacglobal (Aug 5, 2007)

I'm thinking lawnmower. :shock: 

:roll: :roll: :roll:


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## usaman65 (Jan 30, 2008)

try a cofee grinder


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## Irons (Jan 30, 2008)

A great way to quiet the neighbors having a party at 3 AM. I imagine a hammer mill would do likewise but at about 20 more db. 8)


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## Harold_V (Jan 30, 2008)

Irons said:


> A great way to quiet the neighbors having a party at 3 AM. I imagine a hammer mill would do likewise but at about 20 more db. 8)



If you've never been around one in operation, it would be hard to understand the level of noise they create. My ball mill could easily be described as a miniature. The charge consisted of balls from 2" diameter downwards, to about 3/4", along with a generous sprinkling of some rollers from large roller bearings. They were roughly 1" in diameter, and perhaps 1¼" long. I had to wear ear protection when it was in motion. The noise was actually painful to the ears.

Harold


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## The Refiner49er (Feb 23, 2008)

Irons might be on to something...

Before I got too far along on this thread, I am thinking a garbage disposal might be the tool for the job. Haven't tried it, but I have an old one and I am going to take it for a test drive.

Several theoretical advantages are worth considering.

1- The addition of a small amount of water would likely minimize or eliminate dust.

2- The water would also effect transport of the material (slurry) to a downstream container, providing a efficient "flow through" vs a "fill and empty" method.

3- The grinders original design is inherent to the processing task objective, little or no modification may be necessary.

Has anyone else tried this approach? I will follow up this post after validation or destruction of this garbage disposal.


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## Harold_V (Feb 23, 2008)

The problem you'd have with a garbage disposal is that it's a hammer mill, and discharges fairly large substances. By sharp contrast, a ball mill that is not continuous feed can run material until it's reduced to miniscule particles, flour, really. I'm not suggesting it won't work, but it won't do the job a ball mill will, if for no other reason, it allows fairly large objects to be discharged immediately. In a ball mill, while a few large items may find their way out of the discharge, for the most part they are kept inside and pounded until they are so fine that the water flow carries them out the discharge side. Obviously, I'm referring to a mill similar to the one I made, which was a continuous feed/discharge machine. I had restrictors on the discharge side to prevent large pieces from being discharged, but I also classified the material, returning pieces that I felt were too coarse to be effectively leached with cyanide. 

The other problem I think you'd face with a garbage disposal is the effective lifespan. I'm of the opinion that the nature of the material being fed would be abrasive enough to quickly destroy the pivots on which the hammers mount. They're not intended to be subjected to abrasion, so they're made accordingly. 

Bottom line-----it's worth a try if you have an old one, but I wouldn't invest in a new one for the experiment. Your money would be better spent elsewhere. 

Harold


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## Irons (Feb 23, 2008)

Ear plugs not included:

http://tinyurl.com/3d9sxz

This amazing rock crusher is ideal for the gold prospector interested in a light-weight and economical high-speed machine. Material is gravity fed into the hopper and drops into the center of a high-speed tube. The centrifugal force throws the rock into a hardened steel impact wall at speeds in excess of 400 miles per hour. The harder the rock, the easier it shatters into instant powder. If any uncrushable particles are fed into the unit it will automatically pass them without damage or hesitation. All material after crushing then passes automatically into a five-gallon bucket sealed chamber providing a low dust environment. Ideal for crushing all types of quartz, schist, limestone, etc. This new machine is also ideal for crushing black sand concentrates to release any encapsulated micron gold for further processing. Mounted to a vertical 5 horsepower engine, capable of producing up to 2 tons of grind in just one hour in a single pass. Multiple passes may be desired for finer grinds. Designed primarily as a pilot mill and not a production machine. The maximum rock size that this unit will handle is one inch. Weight 85 Lbs.


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## macfixer01 (Feb 23, 2008)

honemaster said:


> Irons might be on to something...
> 
> Before I got too far along on this thread, I am thinking a garbage disposal might be the tool for the job. Haven't tried it, but I have an old one and I am going to take it for a test drive.
> 
> ...




I think I might have mentioned it here previously somewhere but my machinist friend made a nice grinder for his homemade charcoal out of a garbage disposal he bought at a yard sale. It runs dry so he had to bypass the thermal overload switch and set up an external cooling fan for the motor end. Even so he only runs it for 20 minutes or so at a time then lets it cool awhile. It actually grinds quite fine, however charcoal is fairly soft stuff. Material that is too large could easily be sieved out and fed through again. Actually in a real hammer mill they have replaceable screens which retain material in the chamber until it's small enough to pass through.

macfixer01


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## Anonymous (Feb 23, 2008)

I would suggest a tire for the container on your ball mill. I have seen pictures of large rock polishers that people have made with them.
If you put plywood plugs for the centers and some foam on the outside of the plywood they can be quited even more.


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## Exibar (Mar 16, 2008)

Fever said:


> lmills148 said:
> 
> 
> > I was thinking of using a blender
> ...



will it blend? 

You'll be amazed at what this blender can blend.... Too bad it's like a $400 blender... I wonder if it will do CPUs 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l69Vi5IDc0g&feature=related

Mike B


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## Noxx (Mar 16, 2008)

Ya the «will it blend?» website is quite funny. 

But I don't think the blade would last much long with ceramic CPUs lol 

And imagine the noise it would make...


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## Scott2357 (Apr 9, 2008)

I posted this in another area a few days ago where a guy was using a meat grinder for CPUs but don't know how to link to it so I'll cut and paste...

I'm new here so I don't have any proven methods yet, but I think a hydraulic press might do a better job. 
You could make a steel containment pan for the press plate to fit into so flying chip bits would not be lost. 
The press plate and the pan plate would need to have irregular or grooved surfaces to aid in concentrating 
pressure points for efficient use of crushing force. Preferably plates would be inverse patterns of each other. 
I can't give a good reason, but I would probably process chip pins and lid plates first then crush packages. 

Check out http://www.harborfreight.com and word search for 'ton press'. 
You can get up to a 20 ton model for less than $200. Much less if you only plan to crush plastic chips.

Well, I guess it is a little pricey compared to a 50 cent meat grinder but I was thinking long term here. Besides, it has a lot more uses than cracking chips. 

To name a few.. 

Prospectors could use it to crush gold/platinum ore. 

If you're into catalytic converters and hate cutting them open (as I do), you could partially crush the bodies so the fractured honeycomb pieces would just pour out the end. 

... and no blistered hands!


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## Harold_V (Apr 10, 2008)

I saw your original post, but didn't think much of your suggestion. Here's why. (I'm not trying to be rude, just practical). 

As you crush material, the surface area increases rapidly. What may break under 20 tons will spread and triple the area, stopping the crushing action. The process will work if you can keep the amount inside the plates to a bare minimum, but that would slow you down to a crawl. I'm assuming your objective is to crush items fine, not just break them in large pieces. 

I guess it all depends on what you expect from the press. My purpose was to reduce the ore I processed to fine particles. That would have required tonnage that is unimaginable with a press, but with a ball mill, surface area is not an issue. It's the reason ball mills are used. If, on the other hand, all you want to do is fracture chips, you may get by fairly well. 

I assume you understand that manual hydraulic presses are quite slow acting. Such a setup would work poorly if you had an abundance of material that needed crushing. 

Here's something for you to consider: If your intention is to break ceramic pieces in small chunks, you might consider a small assayer's jaw type crusher. Instead of parallel plates, it has jaws that close from one end to the other, allowing the fines to drop out, keeping pressures reasonable. It should do a nice job, and do it quickly. 

Harold


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## Scott2357 (Apr 10, 2008)

Harold,

I agree. Crushing to fines with a manual press is not extremely practical. I suggested it because it's easy to acquire and relatively safe for most people. It was intend to be a multi step process where you first break into small pieces then further crush finer by allowing the plates to slide thereby rolling the pieces during the crushing action.

Of coarse speed is an issue with a manual press. Hydraulic cylinders from old tractors, etc. would be better but that’s more complicated and there goes safety out the window too.

Now that I think about it, a grist mill would probably work well but only after pins/plates, etc. have been removed with your favorite method. If not, you’ll get a bunch of gold smeared across the grinding faces. Chips would still need to be hammered into pieces small enough feed the machine.

...just some thoughts.


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## Harold_V (Apr 10, 2008)

It might pay you to read a little on ball mills. You have to, more or less, get away from the idea of abrading materials. That causes undue wear on your equipment and does very little work in the way you desire. 

A ball mill, properly designed, does no work by abrasion, but by hammering instead. Balls are intended to be taken to the top of the mill, at which time they're dropped. You get the maximum amount of work from the energy consumed, and do a minimum of damage to the equipment. All it takes for a ball mill to work poorly is to run it either too fast, or too slow. It then works by abrasion, and wears the equipment at an accelerated rate. 

Building the small mill that I needed years ago, to run a small amount of ore that assayed over 300 ounces/ton in gold, was a very good and revealing experience for me. 

Harold


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## Scott2357 (Apr 10, 2008)

What about dissolving the ceramic in hydrofluoric acid? Is hydrofluoric hard to make, dangerous, expensive, impractical or all of the above?


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## Harold_V (Apr 10, 2008)

The general attitude towards the use of HF is it's not a good idea (safety reasons). I'm not convinced you'd be able to buy it, anyway. 

I have very limited experience with HF. I have a pint, which came from a lab that I cleaned out many years ago. I have used it only sparingly, to pickle platinum buttons after melting, and to kill warts. Does a good job of doing that. One drop applied to a wart and it's gone. By carefully applying the acid with a tooth pick, you can see it get absorbed only where you desire it to go. Don't know what doctors would think of the practice, but it has worked for me on three different occasions. I am not promoting , nor advocating, he use of HF for wart killing. Simply making mention of what I did. 

Harold

edit: corrected spelling---no change in content otherwise


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## Cursed (Nov 13, 2008)

I trried putting some in my Osterizer Blender and hit top speed........ the the cup disintigrated right before my eyes. Now i got a piece of steel rod that is 2.25 " in diameter and 36 inches in length and an aluminium pipe about 18" in length and 2.5" I.D. and i just let the pipe drop on them seems to work ok if you do them in small amounts at a time.


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## spooks69 (Jan 8, 2012)

Reopening a dead thread...

Found one at Harbor Freight....excited to give it a whirl!

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-rotary-rock-tumbler-67631.html


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## Anonymous (Jan 8, 2012)

It will not work.Please do not double post.


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## jrmycooke (Jan 20, 2012)

I've been considering a modified tree chipper then a portable cement mixer. The chipper will reduce it to possibly 1/4" to 1/2" pieces and the mixer can be set up with a flanged opening so it can operate horizontally. 
Good idea????


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## Harold_V (Jan 21, 2012)

jrmycooke said:


> I've been considering a modified tree chipper then a portable cement mixer. The chipper will reduce it to possibly 1/4" to 1/2" pieces and the mixer can be set up with a flanged opening so it can operate horizontally.
> Good idea????


In my opinion, no, not a good idea. The chipper will offer huge losses and likely won't enjoy a very long life. Cement mixer has the wrong action. In order for crushing to take place, items should be taken high in the drum, then dropped on a tough surface. A cement mixer doesn't work that way, and is way too thin. You would wear down the pieces slowly, I'll give you that, but what would take days and days to accomplish in a cement mixer might be accomplished in a couple hours in a ball mill. 

Before you make decisions about things like this, do a little research, so you understand the problems. It can save you a lot of frustration when what you try doesn't come close to working right, yet you don't understand that to be the case, and you have no idea what to expect. The reason I say this is because you'll achieve some sort of results with almost anything you try, but there's an optimum way to get the job done. 

Harold


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## jimmydolittle (Jan 21, 2012)

Back when I was doing them, I borrowed an 8” diameter by about a foot piece of steel tubing from the shop where I worked. Placed my CPU’s in it and smashed them with a 2” diameter steel rod. It’s kind of rough on my garage floor, but it worked for the small batches I was doing. If you shoud go that route, place a steel plate under the tube.


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## shaftsinkerawc (Jan 21, 2012)

Has anyone tried a Keene Bucket Crusher (Impact crusher)?


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## Geo (Jan 21, 2012)

i have a homemade mortar made from 8" pipe with a plate welded on the end and a 2" piece of stock as a pestle.


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## jack_burton (Jan 22, 2012)

Geo said:


> i have a homemade mortar made from 8" pipe with a plate welded on the end and a 2" piece of stock as a pestle.




Have any pictures of it Geo?


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## Geo (Jan 22, 2012)

ill try to remember to snap a couple.


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## Iridium chaser (Mar 23, 2019)

Sorry guys,but are you serious?I just can't believe that somebody does try to dissolve silicon chips/silicon dies(if I understood that correctly),with HF??Just quick note before I start:that's never been an issue for me to use HF as well as any similar stuff but only when I need to!And use it to crush either silicon or silica is actually like using nitric acid to dissolve lithium metal(just dissolve in anything-not turn into nitrate)!
Anyway the main issue for me is that it is slow as a wounded slug:it's actually useful for dissolving some really stubborn fused ceramic stuff like fused zirconia just because nothing else will do that,and if we are even talking about some really reactive stuff like superacids and fluorine gas-well..Here it's evident that whatever on earth you will employ for that purpose it's always has to be fluorine-based when any chemicals that has no fluorine atoms in them are useless!You can argue that by saying that metallotermic reduction with lithium metal will do the job as well but I will just point out that first of all you in such case will spawn an even more stubborn zirconium metal,and the main issue is actually the fact that no matter what you are going to extract in this case will partially evaporate and partially fuse together with it making recovery of anything even harder!And so only fluorine bearing stuff will help!But with silicon and silica that is vastly easier to just annihilate those with molten sodium hydroxide!So what I always did at least with silicon dies is I just took some anhydrous NaOH,put it onto the silicon dies without having to crush them(in this case actually even not necessary to get them out of the chips:molten NaOH will do that instead just in the matter of seconds)-and what I always just loved about this process was that it's very fast and efficient and also if you do make everything properly(I just add 20% of sodium nitrate to sodium hydroxide prior to actual applying heat in order to increase it's speed to the point where it quickly becomes a self sustained reaction when you rise the temperature of the melt up to 600-700°C)-it is actually very beautiful and fascinating process just to look at!And by the way:just look at this video showing right what I am talking about right at the end!Actually I did that video quite a long time ago,but anyway it's right what you need!
https://youtu.be/sHji-r3KYs0
Anyway although the video is probably retarded but it is clearly showing the vast superiority of my method!
By the way it's also doing exactly the same thing with both tantalum and tungsten metals!And the same time all PGMs except palladium are completely immune to this method so in case you want to get platinum metal out of tungsten/tantalum-platinum alloy than it's also the best possible solution as when fused with the mixture of NaOH and NaNO3 they are both behaving exactly the same way as silicon dies in this video,and both even can reach the same self-propelled reaction which won't let the mixture to solidify due to the heat being generated by the reaction and when that is reached with them after that even if you will turn the heat off the reaction will still most of the time run to completion!


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## anachronism (Mar 23, 2019)

The last post on this thread before you posted was 7 years ago. You obviously didn't read the date before you posted.

I tend to be a little dubious about post that harp on about the "vast superiority of my method" because it has an unfortunate side effect of making the poster look like a complete knob.


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