# 10+ grams of scrap palladium in hammond organ



## theirrationalist

All, 

After lurking on this forum for over 10 years, I finally have something worthy of a post. This week, I picked up an old Hammond H-300, and harvested 10.5 grams of palladium from just the busbars alone.

I have been taking apart scrap Hammonds for over a year now, and have taken apart over a dozen or so. This H-300 has by far the most palladium of any of the models I have taken apart. I actually wrote up a full report on scrapping a Hammond C2, which I thought had a lot of palladium at 7.5 grams in the busbars. 

Here are a few photos. 








I just wanted to say thanks and let you guys know how much I've enjoyed lurking in this community. 

If anybody has a suggestion for how to refine this palladium, please point me in the right direction. I have about 2toz of scrap.

Thanks to all.


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## kurtak

theirrationalist said:


> If anybody has a suggestion for how to refine this palladium, please point me in the right direction. I have about 2toz of scrap.
> 
> Thanks to all.



Nice 8) :mrgreen: :G 

I have scrapped a few Hammonds to :mrgreen: 

You don't need to refine it - it's already refined Pd - just take it in & sell it as is

Kurt


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## stella polaris

Would you be kind and post a close up picture of the Pd parts? Alway nice to see what to look out for.


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## jimdoc

stella polaris said:


> Would you be kind and post a close up picture of the Pd parts? Alway nice to see what to look out for.



Palladium


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## stella polaris

jimdoc said:


> stella polaris said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would you be kind and post a close up picture of the Pd parts? Alway nice to see what to look out for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Palladium
Click to expand...


Thx Jimdoc.

I have scrapped a couple hammonds but none of this model. Neither have I seen/fund any Pd that looks like the shown photo. That is why i am courious. Do you know what parts it is?


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## jimdoc

It looks like the wire pulled off the buss bar. I could never get it all in one piece, it would always break and wind up being a bunch of smaller pieces. 

One of the models I scrapped had that much palladium also (I think it was a c-3), foot pedals help the buss bar totals on some models.


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## stella polaris

Busbar? It looks like at least 20 meters.


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## stella polaris

A kind hijacking of the thread.

I am trying to get a Hammond T-500. Price not yet agreed upon. 

I have never put my hands on a tone-wheel and this is the last model with that. Anyone that have done one or knows what to expect?


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## jimdoc

As long as it has the palladium along the buss bars, you can estimate by the number of keys, and if it has pedals. As far as I remember, they are similar except for the size of the buss bars.


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## ScrapMetalJunkie

Stella, 

The T series models have about 3 grams on the busbars. I have taken a few apart, they seemed to be skimpy with the palladium compared to the full size organs. 

This link has all the info I've learned from scrapping over a dozen of these things: https://www.scrapmetaljunkie.com/2230/how-to-scrap-a-hammond-organ-for-scrap-palladium

That link shows close ups of all the palladium pieces, and explains how and where to find the palladium, as well as palladium estimates for all the different Hammond models. I wrote a lot, but you can just scroll through the pictures and you'll get the idea. 

I have a lot of palladium spring end clippings, like a whole ziplock bag full. Does anybody have a good method for refining these clipping?




Please excuse the watermark, that is pulled directly from the link I gave.


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## kurtak

jimdoc said:


> It looks like the wire pulled off the buss bar. I could never get it all in one piece, it would always break and wind up being a bunch of smaller pieces.



Hi Jim

The long bus bar that has the long Pd wire has the wire spot brazed to the bus bar about every inch or so - so if you just try to pull the wire from the bus bar it brakes off at each of those spot welds (hence ending up with a bunch of smaller wires) & although it doesn't amount to a lot you end up losing "some" Pd as it's stuck to the bus bar where the wire brakes at the point of the weld

The braze is done with a nickel braze so you can dissolve the braze with HCl which will release the whole wire from the bus bar

However - the HCl has to be HOT to dissolve the nickel - like "boiling" hot --- takes about 2 hours with the HCl on a boil & the whole wire will release 

Kurt


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## kurtak

ScrapMetalJunkie said:


> I have a lot of palladium spring end clippings, like a whole ziplock bag full. Does anybody have a good method for refining these clipping?



Per the underlined --- dilute nitric

Although nitric will dissolve Pd - in order to do so the nitric needs to be concentrated - that is (like dissolving silver) 67 - 70 % nitric diluted 50/50 with distilled water - AND it needs to be HOT - & even at that it is very slow at dissolving the Pd --- that is a result of where it sits on the reactive series of metals

In other words - although nitric can/will dissolve Pd - it is MUCH less reactive to the nitric then nitric reaction to metal above Pd in the reactive series - such as copper or silver which are MUCH more reactive to nitric

Therefore you can take advantage of "how reactive" nitric is to the different metals

Examples; - copper is "very" reactive to nitric - 50/50 nitric/D-water will dissolve copper without any need to heat the nitric (other then the heat created from the reaction) & it will do so in a "relatively" short time (a few hours) the example here being say 5 or 10 pounds of gold plated pins in a plastic 5 gallon bucket will dissolve the pins in 4 -5 hours 

on the other hand - if you put 5 - 10 pounds of silver in a 5 gallon bucket with the same 50/50 nitric it would take several days to dissolve the silver- & then it may not dissolve all the silver (as the acid gets weaker & weaker the more metal it dissolves) which is why we put silver in a beaker & put it on a hot plate to dissolve silver --- the acid (nitric) needs the added heat of the hot plate to keep the reaction going on the silver because the silver is so much less reactive to the nitric then the reactivity of the nitric to copper

Like wise - Pd is even less reactive to nitric then it is to silver - so not only does it take heat to dissolve Pd with nitric - it also take more time to dissolve the Pd 

So you can take advantage of this fact - you have a "small" Pd wire brazed to a "thin" copper bus bar

therefore - if you dilute the nitric more then 50/50 & do "not" apply any heat - the acid will be to weak to react with the Pd - but will still react with the copper --- thereby dissolving the copper but leave the Pd (wires) undissolved & sitting in the bottom of your reaction vessel (beaker or bucket)

Keep in mind that it takes (about) 4 time more nitric to dissolve copper then to dissolve silver

It takes (about) 1 gallon of 67 -70 % nitric to dissolve (about) 2 pounds of copper - where as the same gallon of nitric will dissolve (about) 8 pounds of silver

As an example (in your case) say you have 2 pounds of the clipped bus bar points - you will need (about) 1 gallon of nitric to dissolve the copper - put the points in a 5 gallon bucket - put 2 gallons distilled water in the bucket (you don't want tap water as the chlorine in tap water can make a weak AR which may - or not - result in dissolving "some" Pd) --- then add 1/3 to 1/2 of the nitric (I think you will be safe at half your acid - because a half gallon acid to 2 gallons water is already quit diluted) let that react until the reaction slows down (about 2 -3 hours) then add half of your remaining acid - wait for the reaction to slow down again (another 2 - 3 hours) then add the remaining acid --- if you start in the morning - by the end of the day (depending somewhat on the outside temp) the copper should be dissolved with the Pd wires in the bottom of the bucket --- if the outside temp is below 60 - 70 F it may take a day & half to 2 days to dissolve the copper

Or if you don't have nitric you could "boil" the clippings in HCL to dissolve the nickel braze to release the Pd wires from the copper bus bars --- but then you have to "try" to separate the VERY small wires from the much larger copper bus bar clippings --- a real pain in the you know what --- because the HCl wont dissolve ether the copper or the Pd

Or - you could dissolve the copper with the CuCl2 method - but like dissolving gold plated pins with CuCl2 that will take DAYS to dissolve the copper

I have never used the CuCl2 method (because I have always had nitric) but as I understand it - with that much copper it could take a couple weeks --- maybe someone that knows more about the CuCl2 method could chime in on that

Kurt


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## g_axelsson

Copper chloride in hydrochloric acid dissolves palladium... I don't know if you need additional heat or if it dissolves it even when cold.

See the Wacker process : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacker_process

Göran


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## Johnny5

jimdoc said:


> stella polaris said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would you be kind and post a close up picture of the Pd parts? Alway nice to see what to look out for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Palladium
Click to expand...


How to tell how old your post is......
When Noxx asks you to resize it. Lol! God I remember those days. We had a heck of a time. I still remember you guys showing me how to use my first DSLR. Hard to believe it's been that long.


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## snail

I use 20% sulfuric acid with about one cup per gallon 25% peroxide ( Oxidizer from a non chlorine swimming pool chemical system is an inexpensive source ). 
Pretty violent reaction with the copper, leave some headroom in your container, doesn't seem to affect the palladium. Much cheaper for me than nitric acid for me


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## justinhcase

I would handle that mix of Sulphuric acid and H2O2 with great care.
A bit of an overkill for a little copper.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piranha_solution


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## snail

I appreciate your concern. I have great respect for concentrated sulfuric acid and wouldn’t dream of creating full strength piranha acid.
The facility I work at has a 3000 gallon tank of sulfuric that is pumped to several places in our process. The only thing I worry about more is the 60% sodium hydroxide, one drop and your eye is gone.
What I am using is diluted battery acid with a little peroxide.
This why I’m more of a lurker on the forum, I’ve never contributed without someone having an issue.
I’m very thankful and appreciate the information I’ve learned on the forum it has changed my life for the better.
Thanks to all that have shared their knowledge so freely.


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## Slochteren

Have to say thank you to scrapmetaljunkie for his info, scrapped out 4 organs till now and got a 16,5 gr button.

I have tried AP for the recovery of the small palladium contacts at the tip of the copper parts, this process also dissolves partly the paladium, also not really working. I was wondering if these parts are 100% copper or an alloy? If copper can I use them for cementing silver, the palladium contacts will be mixed with the cemented silver and recovered in my silver cell?

Thanks Paul









Verstuurd vanaf mijn STK-LX1 met Tapatalk


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## old thompson

Long time I have not been posting. 

I'm scrapping a newer Hammond Aurora Classic from 1971. There is no palladium on the key buss, but there is a short wire contact on the key tab that touches the buss bar. I only got two grains of the contact wire out of this machine. Have not tested it for Pd. 

I am curious about this one switch with silver contacts. Some kind or rheostat maybe, I don't know, but it's got nine 1/8" rods perpendicular to he travel of two silver contacts each on eight push-pull levers. The plastic switch box is about 10" long and 2-1/2" wide, about 1-1/4" thick. Does anyone know if the nine rods might have value? Or, can anyone identify this type of switch assembly by name? 

I apologize for not being able to post photos. Thanks.


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## FrugalRefiner

See Attaching Images or Files, Working with Attachments.

Dave


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## stella polaris

old thompson said:


> Long time I have not been posting.
> 
> I'm scrapping a newer Hammond Aurora Classic from 1971. There is no palladium on the key buss, but there is a short wire contact on the key tab that touches the buss bar. I only got two grains of the contact wire out of this machine. Have not tested it for Pd.
> 
> I am curious about this one switch with silver contacts. Some kind or rheostat maybe, I don't know, but it's got nine 1/8" rods perpendicular to he travel of two silver contacts each on eight push-pull levers. The plastic switch box is about 10" long and 2-1/2" wide, about 1-1/4" thick. Does anyone know if the nine rods might have value? Or, can anyone identify this type of switch assembly by name?
> 
> I apologize for not being able to post photos. Thanks.


I have scrapped one as well. The nine rods seems to be nickel. But have not tested them. You should get a few gold IC as well. Thats it. Not the best Hammond so to say.


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## old thompson

Just tested a rod with schwarter's, It turned it blue-green. Probably nickle.

I got a couple okay looking chips, and I got the organ at a price I can afford- Free. 

Good thing there's like $10 worth of copper wire harness so I'll recover my fuel money.


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## galenrog

Being offered a Hammond H-382. Other that palladium wire, palladium contact points mentioned here and at scrapmetaljunkie.com, amplifiers, and speakers, is there anything of significant value beyond scrap prices. The organ does not work, and the owner has had it in storage for several months.

Of course, if it is a fix I can handle, I will repair and sell.

Picking up next week once I am done hauling bark, dirt, plants, etc. for the wife.

Edit: I should have gotten back last week, but life happens. The organ, rather than being given to me, was sold to a used piano and organ shop. No loss here. The seller got a decent price, and the buyer will restore it, or harvest working parts and assemblies. Me, I was simply going to scrap it.


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## Ohiogoldfever

I just broke down a late 70’s funmaker organ. Some nice gold legged transistors, gold tipped contacts. I’m having trouble figuring out what the bud bar material is. Silver, bright without tarnish. Heats up super fast, but cools to have a dark gray appearance. Super mailable, has almost no memory. 

Thoughts?


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## Mike18436572

I have been having decent results removing the palladium wire from the bars with sulfuric from Lowe’s, they sell battery back up systems, and H2o2. I’ve been concentrating either the common 3% or 12% from Sally’s. It says 40 clear. I’m getting tired of concentrating H2o2. I can’t seem to find a gallon of 30%-35% for a decent price with shipping. I know an air bubbler works in AP. Will a bubbler work with the sulfuric the same way it works with hcl? I’ve tried searching for it but can’t find any info. That just might be my answer but figured I’d ask. If it would work I’d make a custom bucket to process it in. Thanks.


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## snail

Oxidizer for none chlorine pool chemical systems is near 30% varies by brand, the bottle always seems to be in a plastic bag. Inexpensive way to get relatively pure peroxide, kind of like tech grade acids.


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## Mike18436572

Is it a liquid or like a tablet? Does it have a definite name? Can you order it online? I think most pool places around here would be closed for the winter. Thanks


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## Mike18436572

Ok I see....it’s granulated. Maybe looks like sugar. Lowe’s and Menards carries it but not this time of year. I can order it from Amazon. It ranges from $7 a pound to $3.5 a pound depending on how much you buy. I wonder how much I’d need per liter?


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## Yggdrasil

I'm not sure I would use any H2O2 in any other form than liquid form (if it exist), 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide, 
are you sure you have not mistaken it for Oxone?
Potassium peroxymonosulfate KHSO5
Often used in pools for oxygenating.
As far as I know they serve completely different purposes.

On another level, be careful using the mix you are using, it may serve you well to find a replacement less aggressive, this one will strip your flesh of your bones.


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## snail

Sorry, I went To bed, it is a liquid. it is for the non chlorine treatment systems. They call it oxidizer.
comes in a gallon container shipped in a plastic bag with a warning to not let it sit in a closed car in the sun!

I learned of it on this forum years ago. I believe i paid less than $20 last time i bought it.
If you can find a store open, I'm sure they would be glad to get nit off their shelves.

Good Luck


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## vestport

Oh no, those poor Hammond Organs! I have dealt in electronic scrap for decades but I am also a musician. Though I don't play the keys, some of these old organs are amazing sounding and I would never tear them apart for scrap. Before you scrap a B3, A-100, A101 or similar call me! Also, if you have a Leslie I am interested in all this stuff as musical instruments. I am in Mass so it has to be close where I can pickup as these are heavy units.


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## war_child

I just scraped a Leslie, but this thing was hardly an instrument anymore. I doubt any of the parts were useable either. It was broken into two main pieces and had been laying outside for many years, now in 6" of standing water. It was full of leaves and nests and turds. I am currently sorting thru the components and learning about what I have in front of me. This thread may be from a while ago, but it helped me out a lot.

Thanks all. Merry Christmas!
mike


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## war_child

old thompson said:


> Long time I have not been posting.
> 
> I'm scrapping a newer Hammond Aurora Classic from 1971. There is no palladium on the key buss, but there is a short wire contact on the key tab that touches the buss bar. I only got two grains of the contact wire out of this machine. Have not tested it for Pd.
> 
> I am curious about this one switch with silver contacts. Some kind or rheostat maybe, I don't know, but it's got nine 1/8" rods perpendicular to he travel of two silver contacts each on eight push-pull levers. The plastic switch box is about 10" long and 2-1/2" wide, about 1-1/4" thick. Does anyone know if the nine rods might have value? Or, can anyone identify this type of switch assembly by name?
> 
> I apologize for not being able to post photos. Thanks.


Hello old thompson, I see this post is quite old, and it says you were "last seen" here over a year ago, but I was hoping you found out something about the rods you mentioned. From your description I think I may have a similar component. I was wondering if they might be silver plated. This is what mine look like:


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## canedane

Mayby this can help you.
Silver test​When dissolved in an approximately 35% nitric acid solution it is called Schwerter's solution and is used to test for the presence of various metals, notably for determination of silver purity. Pure silver will turn the solution bright red, sterling silver will turn it dark red, low grade coin silver (0.800 fine) will turn brown (largely due to the presence of copper which turns the solution brown) and even green for 0.500 silver. Brass turns dark brown, copper turns brown, lead and tin both turn yellow while gold and palladium do not change.

In these tread old thompson test it with Schwerter's solution, the test was blue/green. Maybe nickel?

Henrik


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## FrugalRefiner

Henrik, you didn't mention the potassium dichromate that is an essential component of Schwerter's solution.

I mix mine 5 ml at a time since it does degrade over time. I put about 0.4 grams of potassium dichromate in a 5 ml dropper bottle. I add distilled water till it's about half full and give it a swirl to get things mixing. Then I add some nitric till it's about 3/4 full and swirl some more. No heat is needed and the dichromate salt goes into solution in just a few minutes. Then I top it off with nitric.

Be aware that chromium IV salts, including potassium dichromate are carcinogenic. PPE including gloves and careful technique are essential.

Dave


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## war_child

Oh, I see now. Old Thompson _did_ post the exact info I was looking for. I must have scrolled right past it. I will take his word for it. I don't have any Schwerter's solution, or nitric for that matter. I was going to check here one more time, then try the method I saw on a 999dusan video. To test for silver plate, he used a couple drops of standard bleach on the items, then waited to see if it reacts. The silver-plated stuff turned dark, but the tin stayed bright. I tried it on one of the silvery fingers found on all the boards in the organ. No change. I thought it was worth a shot.
Thanks again guys.


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## Mowrey

I'll buy your palladium.

mowreygold.com


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## Abdoulapapatte

kurtak said:


> Per the underlined --- dilute nitric
> 
> Although nitric will dissolve Pd - in order to do so the nitric needs to be concentrated - that is (like dissolving silver) 67 - 70 % nitric diluted 50/50 with distilled water - AND it needs to be HOT - & even at that it is very slow at dissolving the Pd --- that is a result of where it sits on the reactive series of metals
> 
> In other words - although nitric can/will dissolve Pd - it is MUCH less reactive to the nitric then nitric reaction to metal above Pd in the reactive series - such as copper or silver which are MUCH more reactive to nitric
> 
> Therefore you can take advantage of "how reactive" nitric is to the different metals
> 
> Examples; - copper is "very" reactive to nitric - 50/50 nitric/D-water will dissolve copper without any need to heat the nitric (other then the heat created from the reaction) & it will do so in a "relatively" short time (a few hours) the example here being say 5 or 10 pounds of gold plated pins in a plastic 5 gallon bucket will dissolve the pins in 4 -5 hours
> 
> on the other hand - if you put 5 - 10 pounds of silver in a 5 gallon bucket with the same 50/50 nitric it would take several days to dissolve the silver- & then it may not dissolve all the silver (as the acid gets weaker & weaker the more metal it dissolves) which is why we put silver in a beaker & put it on a hot plate to dissolve silver --- the acid (nitric) needs the added heat of the hot plate to keep the reaction going on the silver because the silver is so much less reactive to the nitric then the reactivity of the nitric to copper
> 
> Like wise - Pd is even less reactive to nitric then it is to silver - so not only does it take heat to dissolve Pd with nitric - it also take more time to dissolve the Pd
> 
> Vous pouvez donc profiter de ce fait - vous avez un "petit" fil Pd brasé sur une barre omnibus en cuivre "mince"
> 
> par conséquent - si vous diluez le nitrique à plus de 50/50 et n'appliquez "pas" de chaleur - l'acide sera trop faible pour réagir avec le Pd - mais réagira toujours avec le cuivre --- dissolvant ainsi le cuivre mais laissez le Pd (fils) non dissous et assis au fond de votre récipient de réaction (bécher ou seau)
> 
> Gardez à l'esprit qu'il faut (environ) 4 fois plus de nitrique pour dissoudre le cuivre que pour dissoudre l'argent
> 
> Il faut (environ) 1 gallon de 67 -70 % nitrique pour dissoudre (environ) 2 livres de cuivre - alors que le même gallon de nitrique dissoudra (environ) 8 livres d'argent
> 
> Par exemple (dans votre cas), disons que vous avez 2 livres de points de barre omnibus coupés - vous aurez besoin d'environ 1 gallon de nitrique pour dissoudre le cuivre - mettez les points dans un seau de 5 gallons - mettez 2 gallons d'eau distillée dans le seau (vous ne voulez pas d'eau du robinet car le chlore dans l'eau du robinet peut faire un AR faible qui peut - ou non - entraîner la dissolution de "certains"Pd) --- puis ajoutez 1/3 à 1/2 du nitrique (je pense que vous serez en sécurité à la moitié de votre acide - parce qu'un demi-gallon d'acide dans 2 gallons d'eau est déjà dilué) laissez réagir jusqu'à ce que la réaction ralentisse vers le bas (environ 2 à 3 heures) puis ajoutez la moitié de votre acide restant - attendez que la réaction ralentisse à nouveau (encore 2 à 3 heures) puis ajoutez l'acide restant --- si vous commencez le matin - à la fin de le jour (en fonction de la température extérieure) le cuivre doit être dissous avec les fils Pd au fond du seau --- si la température extérieure est inférieure à 60 - 70 F, cela peut prendre un jour et demi à 2 jours pour se dissoudre le cuivre
> 
> Ou si vous n'avez pas de nitrique, vous pouvez "faire bouillir" les coupures dans HCL pour dissoudre la brasure au nickel afin de libérer les fils Pd des barres omnibus en cuivre --- mais vous devez ensuite "essayer" de séparer les TRÈS petits fils de les coupures de barres omnibus en cuivre beaucoup plus grandes --- une vraie douleur dans le vous savez quoi --- parce que le HCl ne dissoudra pas le cuivre ou le Pd
> 
> Ou - vous pouvez dissoudre le cuivre avec la méthode CuCl2 - mais comme dissoudre des broches plaquées or avec CuCl2 qui prendra des JOURS pour dissoudre le cuivre
> 
> Je n'ai jamais utilisé la méthode CuCl2 (parce que j'ai toujours eu du nitrique) mais si je comprends bien - avec autant de cuivre, cela pourrait prendre quelques semaines --- peut-être que quelqu'un qui en sait plus sur la méthode CuCl2 pourrait intervenir là-dessus
> 
> Kurt


hi kurt even diluted if you heat the nitric 50/50 you will have an attack of the pd, I guarantee it to you.
need to use hcl only or all refine 
vincent


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## kurtak

Abdoulapapatte said:


> hi kurt even diluted* if you heat the nitric* 50/50 you will have an attack of the pd, I guarantee it to you.
> need to use hcl only or all refine
> vincent


per the bold print - yes & correct - "*if you heat the nitric*" - if you don't heat the nitric (other then the heat from the reaction it's self) you can separate the Pd from the copper/brass/silver with very little or *NO* Pd going into solution

I have done this *many* times with very little (just a trace) or *NO* Pd dissolving & going into solution

Here is a thread where I posted a demonstration of how to do it that puts little or *NO* Pd into solution

IF (the BIG IF) you do it right - you will dissolve very little to *NONE* of the Pd

read this thread - it may explain it better









Three types of contacts


Folks I've got three types of contacts here on a batch of telecoms equipment that's landed with me today. I may be wrong and I'm happy to take some advice but I think that the dark contacts (corroded) on the right are silver, as they polish up. I think the grey contacts on the left may be...




goldrefiningforum.com





Kurt


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## Abdoulapapatte

kurtak said:


> selon l'impression en gras - oui et correct - " *si vous chauffez le nitrique* " - si vous ne chauffez pas le nitrique (autre que la chaleur de la réaction elle-même), vous pouvez séparer le Pd du cuivre/laiton/argent avec très peu ou *PAS* de Pd en solution
> 
> Je l'ai fait *plusieurs* fois avec très peu (juste une trace) ou *AUCUN* Pd se dissolvant et entrant en solution
> 
> Voici un fil où j'ai posté une démonstration de la façon de le faire qui met peu ou *pas* de Pd en solution
> 
> SI (le GRAND SI) vous le faites correctement - vous vous dissoudrez très peu à *AUCUN* du Pd
> 
> lire ce fil - il peut mieux l'expliquer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three types of contacts
> 
> 
> Folks I've got three types of contacts here on a batch of telecoms equipment that's landed with me today. I may be wrong and I'm happy to take some advice but I think that the dark contacts (corroded) on the right are silver, as they polish up. I think the grey contacts on the left may be...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> goldrefiningforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kurt


ok kurt promise I will read this thread that looks interesting, I don't doubt that you are right eh, for my part with 1kg of aliage granailler in a 3liter beaker.
+200 ml water (for booster)
+250 ml hno3 65% (for booster) 
+ad hno3 when visual decrease of the reaction 
T°C 5°/ 15°C outside)
I still have a lot of palladium in solution.
(stanous chloride test).
when I treated 75kg of aliage Ag 82%/pd8%/W 10%.

WTF I got so much pd as [dmg sponge].

but I think my solution ended up heating up more than yours because it was probably in larger quantities.

I don't know? 
I will read your thread and give you my opinion bye
if you want to see my result from aliage i can send picture


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## kurtak

Abdoulapapatte said:


> ok kurt promis je vais lire ce fil qui a l'air intéressant, je ne doute pas que tu aies raison hein, pour ma part avec 1kg d'aliage granailler dans un becher de 3litres.
> +200 ml d'eau (pour booster)
> +250 ml hno3 65% (pour rappel)
> +ad hno3 quand diminution visuelle de la réaction
> T°C 5°/ 15°C extérieur)
> J'ai encore beaucoup de palladium en solution.
> (essai au chlorure staneux).
> quand j'ai traité 75kg d'alliage Ag 82%/pd8%/W 10%.
> 
> j'ai eu tellement de pd que [dmg sponge].
> 
> mais je pense que ma solution a fini par chauffer plus que la vôtre car elle était probablement en plus grande quantité.
> 
> Je ne sais pas?
> Je vais lire ton sujet et te donner mon avis bye
> if you want to see my result from aliage i can send picture


You have been told by others to - PLEASE translate what you post to the forum to English before posting it

I have *NO* idea what you said in this last post

Kurt


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## Abdoulapapatte

yep i do , you can read , sorry maybe pb with google translate


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## kurtak

Abdoulapapatte said:


> with 1kg of aliage granailler in a 3liter beaker.
> 
> when I treated 75kg of aliage Ag 82%/pd8%/W 10%.



I believe we are talking about to very different things here

You are talking about Pd that is *alloyed* with silver --- when the Pd is actually alloyed with silver (or other metal like copper/brass the Pd is most certainly going to dissolve along with silver (or other metal) --- so both the Pd & silver (or other metal) goes into solution --- you then need to selectively precipitate (separate) those metals out of the solution --- the silver first - then the Pd --- or the Pd first - then the silver

In other words - the method I describe in this thread & the thread I posted a link to does not work if the Pd is alloyed with silver (or other metal)

In this thread & the thread I posted a link to we are talking about a completely different thing 

In this thread the Pd is *PURE* Pd "contact points" that are "attached" to a copper/brass buss bar - so you can dissolve the copper/brass without dissolving the Pd because the Pd is not alloyed with the copper brass 

The same is true in the post I provided a link to except that "*some*" of the points are *pure silver* on copper/brass bus bars - & "*some* of the points are *pure Pd* on copper/brass bus bars --- so again - because the Pd is pure Pd & not alloyed with the other metals - you can dissolve those other metals (including the silver) without dissolving the Pd

Kurt


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## Helian

Kurt,

You're right that nitric is the easiest way to separate Pd wire from Hammond tone bars, as long as they are copper or brass. However, some of the tone bars are made of a different metal, which passivates in nitric. The palladium will dissolve first, even in cold nitric, leaving the bare tone bars behind. I know this, because I've done it myself. Pd in solution is not a problem if you're used to dealing with it, but not if you're trying to strip the wires intact. HCl does gradually loosen the wires on these tone bars, but it takes a long time. If anyone knows of a quick way to do it, not involving razors, etc., I would certainly be glad to hear it.


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## Abdoulapapatte

ok kurt you make me really want to go and see what you have done it looks exciting.
I'll check it out 
thanks 

I'll put some pictures of a project I've already finished.
I don't post much my smartphone is dead.
but i was able to extract some pictures
I do not develop more here, just to illustrate my method of separation of palladium, (with dmg).
besides I was in a hurry and here I did not try to repurify a second time or to electrolyze, I saw some people taking then the palladium sponge diluted in ammonia and reprecipitating it with hcl, if someone has an explanation about this, see results at xrf I'm interested 
pd 80% average purity (77%/90%81/75%)
gold in average (995/1000) (9985/1000)
silver 999/1000
Platinium was not present 

the table: last Picture 
TOP BOX:
1weight/2/3/4 pgms
-red chalk weight per theoretical alloy
-white chalk (% of precious in each alloy ingot)
only one alloy of 28 gr found in the forge has not been tested. 
-the last column at the bottom adds up everything 

see you


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## snail

I use 20% sulfuric with additions of swimming pool oxidizer ( it’s around 25% hydrogen peroxide).

Start with about 1cup of peroxide per gallon of 20% sulfuric. Battery electrolyte is 30% sulfuric.

Can get hot, give it time to start reacting. I use 5 gallon plastic bucket with lid. Only a gallon of liquid to start. Doesn’t put any palladium into solution.


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## kurtak

Helian said:


> Kurt,
> 
> You're right that nitric is the easiest way to separate Pd wire from Hammond tone bars, as long as they are copper or brass. However, some of the tone bars are made of a different metal, which passivates in nitric. The palladium will dissolve first, even in cold nitric, leaving the bare tone bars behind. I know this, because I've done it myself. Pd in solution is not a problem if you're used to dealing with it, but not if you're trying to strip the wires intact. *HCl does gradually loosen the wires on these tone bars, but it takes a long time*. If anyone knows of a quick way to do it, not involving razors, etc., I would certainly be glad to hear it.


Per the bold print - You are talking about the long wire on the long bar - right ?

The long wire is spot brazed on the bar (about every inch or so) the braze is a nickel braze which yes will dissolve in HCl & loosen the wire

You can speed that up by *boiling* them in the HCl

The last time I recover the Pd from Hammond organs was *years* ago & that is how I loosened the wire from the bar

If I remember right it only took about an hour & a half maybe 2 hours to loosen the wire by *boiling* the bars in HCl

Kurt


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## Helian

Thanks, Kurt and Snail, your info is very useful.


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## filmstar

theirrationalist said:


> All,
> 
> After lurking on this forum for over 10 years, I finally have something worthy of a post. This week, I picked up an old Hammond H-300, and harvested 10.5 grams of palladium from just the busbars alone.
> 
> I have been taking apart scrap Hammonds for over a year now, and have taken apart over a dozen or so. This H-300 has by far the most palladium of any of the models I have taken apart. I actually wrote up a full report on scrapping a Hammond C2, which I thought had a lot of palladium at 7.5 grams in the busbars.
> 
> Here are a few photos.
> 
> View attachment 44638
> 
> View attachment 44637
> 
> View attachment 44636
> 
> 
> I just wanted to say thanks and let you guys know how much I've enjoyed lurking in this community.
> 
> If anybody has a suggestion for how to refine this palladium, please point me in the right direction. I have about 2toz of scrap.
> 
> Thanks to all.


Ive only just noticed this thread did a quick search after I picked up 3 M102's and I have 2 others coming dont know the model No.s yet? ill be stripping them as long as none of them have ever been played by Ray Manzarek or Billy Preston ? hahahaha


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## FriscoDad

ScrapMetalJunkie said:


> This link has all the info I've learned from scrapping over a dozen of these things: https://www.scrapmetaljunkie.com/2230/how-to-scrap-a-hammond-organ-for-scrap-palladium



The above link is not working anymore. Does anyone have an archive of the info that was posted there? I think I saw that page before and the part I'm interested in is the table or chart with all the different Hammond models and the PM content for each model. Thanks.


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## FrugalRefiner

Yep, looks like the site is no more. The domain name is parked and available from Go Daddy.

Dave


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## Palladium

I Made $400 Scrapping A Hammond Organ For Scrap Palladium


Welcome to ScrapMetalJunkie.com! If you are interested in Scrap Metal Recycling, and would like to read a breakdown of how to scrap all types of things to make cash, please read though the Scrapper…




web.archive.org


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## Findm-Keepm

FriscoDad said:


> The above link is not working anymore. Does anyone have an archive of the info that was posted there? I think I saw that page before and the part I'm interested in is the table or chart with all the different Hammond models and the PM content for each model. Thanks.








I Made $400 Scrapping A Hammond Organ For Scrap Palladium


Welcome to ScrapMetalJunkie.com! If you are interested in Scrap Metal Recycling, and would like to read a breakdown of how to scrap all types of things to make cash, please read though the Scrapper…




web.archive.org





Wayback Machine at the Internet Archive.

Edit: duplicate post - just clarifying where to find archived pages.


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## Slochteren

nevermind, just read the last post... sorry

The mentioned website does not work anymore ( https://www.scrapmetaljunkie.com/2230/how-to-scrap-a-hammond-organ-for-scrap-palladium). Has anyone saved this documentation and willing to share again?

Thanks Paul


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## Shark

Palladium said:


> I Made $400 Scrapping A Hammond Organ For Scrap Palladium
> 
> 
> Welcome to ScrapMetalJunkie.com! If you are interested in Scrap Metal Recycling, and would like to read a breakdown of how to scrap all types of things to make cash, please read though the Scrapper…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> web.archive.org


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