# Traveling Backroads



## rusty

Couple of weeks back I purchased a dead Cub Cadet model 364 mower with a hydrostatic drive for $50.00. Engine was seized solid so I swapped in the engine from my other mower that had transmission problems. Cut the lawn twice then had to get some new belts on the way home decided to take a side road. Not more than five minutes into the drive find this Skid Steer tucked away in the brush.

I quick introduction to the owner living on the property with an offer, I find myself the proud owner of this Hydro-Mac Model 10, the engine a 1.6 liter Ford industrial seized solid. After making a number of call all around then some find the engine is not an easy item to find.

Could rebuild the one that came with the Skid Steer, but I figure by the time I sink $500.00 to a thousand into a boat anchor why not search out a Kubota or an Isuzu of the same horse power. As luck would have it, found a Kubota V2203 with 1600 hours on the clock for $800.00 from Thermo King.

From another post you may recall my plans to build a baler, the skid steer loader has auxiliary hydraulics with quick connectors to hook up fluid driven implements such as sweepers, post hole augers and now a baler once I get it built.

With this small loader, I will be able to load my bales, just put a set of forks on once the bucket has been removed.

Regards
Rusty


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## Claudie

Nice find!


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## darshevo

Those are sweet old units. Plus, you can swap some 7.50 traction treads on it for winter time fun as well (that and a set of chains and its a back up snow plow :mrgreen: )

-Lance


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## Palladium

Rusty always finds the best stuff.


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## rusty

The fellow from whom i purchased the Hydra Mac gave me a pile of electric motors from which I received $711.00.

On the truck is my Kubota diesel, 1600 hrs cost $800.00, got a spare S.A.E. bell-housing tossed in for free, this I will use as my template to make the adapter to mount my hydraulic pumps. All three of them.

Edit: Turns out the little 1.6 liter ford engine is the Ford Kent still used by racing enthusiasts, Ford also started reproducing the Kent engine in 2010 to fill the need as these engines have become rather scarce to find in the used market.

They're squeezing 185 bhp from these 1.6L blocks on the track. 

Same block with twin overhead cam head, twin weber carbs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJeL-9T18OI&feature=related

Some of the parts from my Hydra Mac engine will eventually make it to auction.

Regards
Rusty


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## rusty

Old RV trailer, the frame and axles will be the foundation for a car hauler. Paid $200.00 for it along with 3 trucks complete with engines and exhaust systems with catalytics.

Will post pictures of this car hauler comes into being along with the loader project as they progress.


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## Barren Realms 007

rusty said:


> Old RV trailer, the frame and axles will be the foundation for a car hauler. Paid $200.00 for it along with 3 trucks complete with engines and exhaust systems with catalytics.
> 
> Will post pictures of this car hauler comes into being along with the loader project as they progress.



I guess you will be going after the wireing harness connections, switches, control boxes, brain's and such on the auto's as well? 8)


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## rusty

Barren Realms 007 said:


> rusty said:
> 
> 
> 
> Old RV trailer, the frame and axles will be the foundation for a car hauler. Paid $200.00 for it along with 3 trucks complete with engines and exhaust systems with catalytics.
> 
> Will post pictures of this car hauler comes into being along with the loader project as they progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess you will be going after the wireing harness connections, switches, control boxes, brain's and such on the auto's as well? 8)
Click to expand...


Yes to all, one of the trucks is a 4x4 maybe find a posi differential to put on auction or some other goodies.

I thought that I could retire from the scrap business but found that I was wrong. 

The wife is out there right now dismantling the RV trailer and I have not seen her this happy since we quit doing scrap. Once it's in your blood your hooked for life.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

rusty said:


> Yes to all, one of the trucks is a 4x4 maybe find a posi differential to put on auction or some other goodies.
> 
> I thought that I could retire from the scrap business but found that I was wrong.
> 
> The wife is out there right now dismantling the RV trailer and I have not seen her this happy since we quit doing scrap. Once it's in your blood your hooked for life.
> 
> Regards
> Rusty



Yea you miss looking thru stuff and tearing things apart and finding goodies. 8)


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## element47

Rusty, I used to think I was pretty good, but you SMOKE me in terms of the weird stuff you find! 

Is that painted graffiti or moss growing on the side of the RV?


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## rusty

element47 said:


> Rusty, I used to think I was pretty good, but you SMOKE me in terms of the weird stuff you find!
> 
> Is that painted graffiti or moss growing on the side of the RV?



Graffiti, RV came off the Res, below is a picture of what is left. I have to re-tube the axles as they are now much to narrow to load a vehicle. 

Another road trip coming up, my buddy in Saskatchewan gave me a bunch of planking to use for the trailer deck. Hmm! wonder what other goods I will find on this journey.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

That is one destructive woman you have there. 8)


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## butcher

"One destructive woman you have there."

Yes I was thinking the same thing when I saw that picture; she made quick work of that trailer.

I have a trailer that I would like to take the trailer box off (the trailer frame) and keep it as a shed, using the trailer for hauling with, can you tell me an easy way to cut it off below flooring, about how and were all its bolted. Not sure how they are bolted down, to trailer frame, otherwise I would know where to put the sawzall.


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## element47

From the trailers I've seen, I think you'd compromise the "box" structure of the trailer badly if you separated it from the chassis, no matter how gently you did so. Don't you think you're better off having the nice floor in your shed? IMO if you had just the box, your doors wouldn't open and close well...the thing would tweak out of shape...and furthermore, I am not convinced that a travel trailer chassis would make anything more than the lightest vehicle-trailer imaginable...and, as Rusty pointed out, the wheels aren't wide enough, unless you are transporting motorcycles or ATV-like things. 

I think you'd very probably be better off buying a used auto-trailer if that is your aim. Just my .02.

Edit: Oh, I see you didn't specifically mention "auto-trailer", that was an assumption on my part. I still think you'd be better off buying a real trailer unless you're prepared to do some extensive (not expensive if you own welding gear and tools, etc: but a fair amount of labor, if your time is worth anything.


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## butcher

I do alot of welding and have built and still have several trailers, one heavyduty enough to haul catapillars, this travel trailer is just used for storage now the frame seems fairly heavy and I could beef it up or modify it for use, I was just thinking they just bolted floor to frame,then built the trailer house on it, and I could just cut bolts, add timbers to bottom of floor jack it up pull out trailer and sit it down, travel trailer to good to destroy, and the double axil trailer is just under it useless for now. 
thanks element47


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## rusty

butcher said:


> I do alot of welding and have built and still have several trailers, one heavyduty enough to haul catapillars, this travel trailer is just used for storage now the frame seems fairly heavy and I could beef it up or modify it for use, I was just thinking they just bolted floor to frame,then built the trailer house on it, and I could just cut bolts, add timbers to bottom of floor jack it up pull out trailer and sit it down, travel trailer to good to destroy, and the double axil trailer is just under it useless for now.
> thanks element47



Your right the floor is bolted to the frame then the shack is built onto the floor. RV trailers are notorious for dry rot, check your out before you wast too much time on this project.

Call a few boat and trailer storage lots then ask if they have any old RV to go, a lot of people will rent storage then spot the trailer abandoning it to the lot owner, this practice seems to be much cheaper than disposing of an unwanted trailer rather than using the proper channels. 

In B.C. I used to get old RV's on a regular basis, the lot owners will keep your number on file, as they do not wish to pay to dispose of someones else's garbage. If anyone gets a free trailer post what it is on this thread we would all like to hear what you got for free.

I have another trailer from a single axle RV that I use to carry my riding mower over to the other house to keep the grass cut per municipal by laws. I shortened the frame so it is only about 8 ft long. No lights or fenders.

Regards
Rusty


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## trashmaster

It is really suprising what all one can learn on this Forum;;;;

Thanks for the post.

paul


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## rusty

Returned from my buddies farm in Saskatchewan loaded with 2 x 12 Douglas fir that is number one select knot free tight grain lumber that is about 50/60 years old, the planking was used a dividers in an old farrowing barn.

It has been years since I have seen lumber of the quality it is a shame to use it as decking for a low life car hauler.

Other than the lumber the trip was uneventful the only find was the box of silver plate flatware.

I had a chicken plucker from the farm loaded on the truck but a young woman saw it on the truck while I was browsing the scrap yard and she wanted it but had no money just a good story about raising meat birds which she sold from her own small farm. Anyone that enterprising deserves a good hand, I gave he the plucker.

A chicken plucker is just a drum with rubber fingers protruding from it as the floor revolves the feathers are removed from a scolded bird. They're pretty slick and make the job of plucking 20 to 30 birds at a time short work.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

Those boards should be smooth as a baby's butt with the shoats rubbing up aginst them. The smell should be gone too if they have not been used in years.


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## glondor

You could prolly sell those boards to a furniture maker for a real good buck. Any Mennonites in your area?


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## Barren Realms 007

glondor said:


> You could prolly sell those boards to a furniture maker for a real good buck. Any Mennonites in your area?



I would not suggest that since the boards were used on the hog farm. There is a possability of bacteria on the bords and you would not want that.


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## rusty

glondor said:


> You could prolly sell those boards to a furniture maker for a real good buck. Any Mennonites in your area?



Barren is right on the money the boards have a unique aroma, not suitable for indoor use.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

rusty said:


> glondor said:
> 
> 
> 
> You could prolly sell those boards to a furniture maker for a real good buck. Any Mennonites in your area?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barren is right on the money the boards have a unique aroma, not suitable for indoor use.
> 
> Regards
> Rusty
Click to expand...


Unique aroma, that is a polite way of saying they stink. 8) It was always the smell of money when I was around it


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## silversaddle1

Yea, my money don't smell like that! :mrgreen:


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## Oz

If you keep your money as silver it is even anti-bacterial and anti-viral money. Where has your paper money been before you got it?


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## Barren Realms 007

silversaddle1 said:


> Yea, my money don't smell like that! :mrgreen:



Hell that is probably why I can't smell anything. Was that a finishing floor on the right side of your last picture you posted of that last big load? You are right in the middle of where most are grown so I know you know the smell. 8)


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## Barren Realms 007

Oz said:


> If you keep your money as silver it is even anti-bacterial and anti-viral money. Where has your paper money been before you got it?



According to some reports it has probably been up someones nose sucking up cocain. :shock:


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## silversaddle1

Barren Realms 007 said:


> silversaddle1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, my money don't smell like that! :mrgreen:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell that is probably why I can't smell anything. Was that a finishing floor on the right side of your last picture you posted of that last big load? You are right in the middle of where most are grown so I know you know the smell. 8)
Click to expand...


No, it was either my horse barn or the recycling shop. Pigs, yea, we know the smell, but none around here!


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## Claudie

Barren Realms 007 said:


> Oz said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you keep your money as silver it is even anti-bacterial and anti-viral money. Where has your paper money been before you got it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to some reports it has probably been up someones nose sucking up cocain. :shock:
Click to expand...


I have mostly small bills. I think they came from a strip club.... :|


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## silversaddle1

Claudie said:


> Barren Realms 007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oz said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you keep your money as silver it is even anti-bacterial and anti-viral money. Where has your paper money been before you got it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to some reports it has probably been up someones nose sucking up cocain. :shock:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I have mostly small bills. I think they came from a strip club.... :|
Click to expand...


A smell nonetheless! :lol:


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## rusty

Car below smells of money, this was a freebie. The goodies start coming off tomorrow, then we fill it up with bits of scrap iron to add some weight to it.

The RV trailer is now a bare frame on wheels, the axles have to be re-tubed 12" wider to get my full 8 ft 6 inches width. I'm going to cut the existing trailer frame rails into cross members then buy some new channel iron to replace the rails.

Removing the old axle stubs is not going to be as easy as originally thought the trailer has a drop axle making it impossible to swing the spindle in my lath were I would have machined the old weld off then prepared the stub for welding. Looks to be a job for the grinder instead, not so bad as this kills two birds with one stone.

Grinding the old weld free will also prepare the stub for welding, what you want is a V where the axle tubing meets the end of the stub so that your getting 100 percent weld and not just welding on top of the metal, I will post pictures when I get to this part of the project so that it all make more sense.

Regards
Rusty


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## rusty

First goodies removed from scrap car.

Speedometer circuit board has a couple of chips and some resistors on the backside, that is the air bag laying beside the speedo. Wondering if the bag would make a good filter.

Regards
Rusty


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## rusty

I think the air bag above is made from Kevlar, my hunting knife would not cut the fabric had to use a serrated knife. Now i have a pair, one from the drivers side the other passenger.

Other goodies recovered one aluminum air conditioner condenser, aluminum surge tank, aluminum radiator and about 10 lbs of copper wire, one catalytic converter. ABS braking system has gold pins both on the unit itself and the wiring harness plug all other plugs have silver looking spades and pins which could be palladium as I had checked out before with another wreck.

Now to pull the on board computer then get some tax free gasoline from the tank so that I can cut the lawn.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

rusty said:


> I think the air bag above is made from Kevlar, my hunting knife would not cut the fabric had to use a serrated knife. Now i have a pair, one from the drivers side the other passenger.
> 
> Other goodies recovered one aluminum air conditioner condenser, aluminum surge tank, aluminum radiator and about 10 lbs of copper wire, one catalytic converter. ABS braking system has gold pins both on the unit itself and the wiring harness plug all other plugs have silver looking spades and pins which could be palladium as I had checked out before with another wreck.
> 
> Now to pull the on board computer then get some tax free gasoline from the tank so that I can cut the lawn.
> 
> Regards
> Rusty



Yes the air bag should be made of kevlar. Some good finds there.


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## rusty

Thanks Barren, I said to hell with mowing the grass and took the wife to the landfill, mos of the load on the truck is what we came home with, this is stuffer material that will go into that small white Chevy Caviler to give it some weight. The aluminum we will sort and keep aside.

At $180.00 a ton we should be able to make the Caviler into a $600.00 car.

Regards
Rusty


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## Jimmi_p

$180.00 were getting $230 a ton here in Illinois. Tell that scrap yard manager to bump it up a bit. 
nice haul
Jimmi


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## rusty

Jimmi_p said:


> $180.00 were getting $230 a ton here in Illinois. Tell that scrap yard manager to bump it up a bit.
> nice haul
> Jimmi



If I were still living in British Columbia i would be getting those same prices you enjoy in Illinois. On one side if the coin I get receive less money for my scrap but have an unlimited supply with no competition, from my rural neighbors who prefer to farm for a living.

I heard that scrappers in the city are paying for scrap and derelict vehicles, I getting everything free so it more than balances the scale in my favor. it is still interesting to know what others are getting paid for their scrap.

Regards
Rusty


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## rusty

From the load above some propane tanks which I have removed the brass valves, Eight valves weigh 5.70 lbs.

The new style valves will not exhaust the propane merely by opening the valve so very often I get tanks with propane which I will use for the tiger torch or camp stove for heating liquids that I'm refining, depleting the propane for a useful purpose.

At the various landfills I frequent there are virtually hundreds of these tanks laying in piles that no one will take for scrap, once the valve is removed they make good car stuffer s

Regards
Rusty


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## skippy

Any advice on getting the valve out Rusty?
I tried once upon a time, it seems to me I couldn't apply enough force because I couldn't hold the tank still.


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## Barren Realms 007

skippy said:


> Any advice on getting the valve out Rusty?
> I tried once upon a time, it seems to me I couldn't apply enough force because I couldn't hold the tank still.



Take you a 2" ratchet strap to hold the tank down to something and then a 24" pipe wrench to unscrew the valve.


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## rusty

skippy said:


> Any advice on getting the valve out Rusty?
> I tried once upon a time, it seems to me I couldn't apply enough force because I couldn't hold the tank still.



Barren the lazy man does it my way, first I cut the protective cage away from the valve, place the tank on the ground then tap the valve on the side with a hammer, couple of blows will get the valve turning loose enough to remove by hand.

In the first picture you will notice the plasma torch is angled upwards, you do not want to cut into the tank at this point, after the valve is removed no problem. When I cut the tank in half I have the opening pointing away from me and never stand with my face over the cut, sometimes there is enough propane vapor left inside to go woof once enough oxygen has entered the cut. No big deal, scares the crap out of you the first time it happens.

The scrap yard wants the tanks cut in half before stuffing my cars with them, removing the valve is not enough to satisfy them.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

rusty said:


> skippy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice on getting the valve out Rusty?
> I tried once upon a time, it seems to me I couldn't apply enough force because I couldn't hold the tank still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barren the lazy man does it my way, first I cut the protective cage away from the valve, place the tank on the ground then tap the valve on the side with a hammer, couple of blows will get the valve turning loose enough to remove by hand.
> 
> In the first picture you will notice the plasma torch is angled upwards, you do not want to cut into the tank at this point, after the valve is removed no problem. When I cut the tank in half I have the opening pointing away from me and never stand with my face over the cut, sometimes there is enough propane vapor left inside to go woof once enough oxygen has entered the cut. No big deal, scares the crap out of you the first time it happens.
> 
> The scrap yard wants the tanks cut in half before stuffing my cars with them, removing the valve is not enough to satisfy them.
> 
> Regards
> Rusty
Click to expand...



ROFL, yea it is the quicker way as well. 8)


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## rusty

Car hauler made from old RV trailer almost completed, all thats left to do is put on fenders and do a bit of wiring for lights and brakes.

The RV axles were to narrow so I cut off the old tubing then put in new schedule 40 to the proper width, the pig barn boards were given a coat of paint to seal in the aroma, the electric winch was my major expense.

Regards
Rusty


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## Barren Realms 007

That is a very nice job.


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## rusty

Barren Realms 007 said:


> That is a very nice job.



Thanks Barren, she gets her maiden voyage sometime this upcoming week. 

When in Brandon bought more deck screws then left leaving them on the counter, these are in the mail and should be here Monday. Then I can finish securing the deck planks at the back end of the trailer.

Trailer is licensed for 7000 GVW, I put on 6 ply tires.

ttys
Rusty


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## rusty

No engine but the exhaust is there complete with a pair of cats.

Will have to check out the differentials later maybe got lucky with a posi or two.

I'm pleased with the Chinese winch it pulls as rated without working up a sweat.

Regards
Rusty


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## darshevo

I have a dove tail car hauler built onto an extended wheel base 1 ton ford. It's got one of those $300 chinese pullers on it too. The last year I used the truck (its been down for 2 now) I moved over a 100 cars and it never let me down. Not bad for an import to be sure


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## rusty

darshevo said:


> I have a dove tail car hauler built onto an extended wheel base 1 ton ford. It's got one of those $300 chinese pullers on it too. The last year I used the truck (its been down for 2 now) I moved over a 100 cars and it never let me down. Not bad for an import to be sure



Glad to hear good about this winch, with inflation they now cost $800.00, The Warn planetary is over 2 grand and it looks identical same hp motor and reduction. Go figure, probably made in the same factory.

Regards
Rusty


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## macfixer01

Barren Realms 007 said:


> skippy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice on getting the valve out Rusty?
> I tried once upon a time, it seems to me I couldn't apply enough force because I couldn't hold the tank still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take you a 2" ratchet strap to hold the tank down to something and then a 24" pipe wrench to unscrew the valve.
Click to expand...



I'd probably use a thin slat of scrap steel or a spare lawnmower blade. Slide it through the slots under the handle and use it to hold the tank from twisting, then loosen the valve with a pipe wrench.


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## skippy

What way does the valve turn to unscrew?

My question also reminds me of a very scary story. I had a propane tank on my bbq and the valve was sticky, and was taking a lot of force to loosen and tighten. Well the valve stem assembly threads are reversed, so someone was using the barbeque, and when they were closing the valve, the excess torque finally loosened the whole valve stem assembly, which they proceeded to spin right out of the tank. Propane started howling out, where it caught fire on the BBQ and made an eight foot flame accompanied by a terrifying whistling noise. A garden hose was trained on the tank until the fire crew got there, and they proceeded to do the same thing with a bigger hose. Fortunately no one was hurt and no property seriously damaged except for the BBQ. Anyhow the lesson I want all to draw on this not to keep compressed gas cylinders that aren't in a good state of repair, as unexpected bad stuff can happen.


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## rusty

skippy said:


> What way does the valve turn to unscrew?
> 
> My question also reminds me of a very scary story. I had a propane tank on my bbq and the valve was sticky, and was taking a lot of force to loosen and tighten. Well the valve stem assembly threads are reversed, so someone was using the barbeque, and when they were closing the valve, the excess torque finally loosened the whole valve stem assembly, which they proceeded to spin right out of the tank. Propane started howling out, where it caught fire on the BBQ and made an eight foot flame accompanied by a terrifying whistling noise. A garden hose was trained on the tank until the fire crew got there, and they proceeded to do the same thing with a bigger hose. Fortunately no one was hurt and no property seriously damaged except for the BBQ. Anyhow the lesson I want all to draw on this not to keep compressed gas cylinders that aren't in a good state of repair, as unexpected bad stuff can happen.




Propane supply hose has left hand thread which is identified with a notch cut into the fitting see red hose on cutting torch. Green hose is oxygen and has right hand threads.

You tank valve the big brass one that screws into th tank is also right hand thread, you turn it counter clockwise to remove it.

All industrial gas fittings have that notch cut into the fitting be it a female or male nut.

Regards
Rusty


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## rusty

Trailer was built from 4 inch channel, that heavy truck was bowing the frame so I made a modification to strengthen the frame. 

The modification is similar to a floor joist or a rafter used for a flat roof building. I'm posting this so you don't make the same mistake I did using 4 inch channel just because it was free.

Trailer has only been finished a couple of days and already I have 6 free scrap cars to pick up most still have the cats on em and I thought that I was going to get out of the scrap business.

Regards
Rusty


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## skippy

Rusty, I wonder, if the deck wasn't strong enough because of the channel size, maybe you should beef up the A shaped section too. Don't want it failing where the 'A' meets the deck.


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## rusty

skippy said:


> Rusty, I wonder, if the deck wasn't strong enough because of the channel size, maybe you should beef up the A shaped section too. Don't want it failing where the 'A' meets the deck.



skippy the "A" hitch part of the frame extends on through to the side rails and is welded near the first tie down winch on both insides of the trailer. The car I now have on now weighs more than the truck i had on it originally, we have stuffed it full of small and large bits of scrap iron.

The 6 ply tires are showing there is definitely weight on the trailer, now to load my truck - ,make the trip pay.

Regards
Rusty


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## butcher

Handi and nice looking trailer, thanks for shareing.


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## skippy

That makes sense, if there weren't those extensions coming off the 'A' section , then the front channel would experience a lot of twisting.

What I was actually more concerned with was that the 'A' shaped section might be flexing like the deck did, but now that I think about it there's less a requirement for strength beyond the deck anyway, as the balancing of the trailer minimizes the weight on the hitch and likewise the strength needed in the 'A' section.


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## rusty

skippy said:


> That makes sense, if there weren't those extensions coming off the 'A' section , then the front channel would experience a lot of twisting.
> 
> What I was actually more concerned with was that the 'A' shaped section might be flexing like the deck did, but now that I think about it there's less a requirement for strength beyond the deck anyway, as the balancing of the trailer minimizes the weight on the hitch and likewise the strength needed in the 'A' section.



Correct, as a rule of thumb on a tandem axle trailer the center spring hanger is positioned two thirds from the front of the deck. This gives you a well balanced trailer easy towing and easy to back up.

Regards
Rusty


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## rusty

This is not an optical illusion, that is a McCormick-Deering WD-9 sitting on the trailer, the bridging really helped that tractor weighs in at 7000 lbs.

When I loaded the tractor it lifted the back end of the truck right clear off the ground.

The McCormick Deering WD 9 starts on gasoline then switches over to diesel.

For the record I will not be showing a picture of every piece of scrap i pick up, just those that have a possible interest.

Regards
Rusty


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## skippy

Rusty, what's it like driving around with that kind of weight? If I am not mistake that's the sort of range where you are supposed to have trailer brakes. Not that I'm the trailer police, but I'm guessing this might be the sort of load to not take too far or too fast. 

I would enjoy seeing every load of scrap you take in, but that's just me.


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## rusty

skippy said:


> Rusty, what's it like driving around with that kind of weight? If I am not mistake that's the sort of range where you are supposed to have trailer brakes. Not that I'm the trailer police, but I'm guessing this might be the sort of load to not take too far or too fast.
> 
> I would enjoy seeing every load of scrap you take in, but that's just me.



Skippy I'm legal with a class 1 on air, this load however is not, I owned a large truck in BC on air and had to get an International Safety Code Number now that I have that number I can not plead insanity if I'm caught breaking the laws of the highway.

Trailer is licensed for a GVW of 7000 lbs, this load exceeds this, luckily I only had a couple of miles of back roads to travel it, I'm going to get in touch with a collector of such relics to see if he is interested if not it;s chop chop. Have to prune it down to size.

The Chines winch would not pull this tractor on without the help of a block, for those that are not familiar with a snatch block it's just a pulley that you attach to the weight your pulling bringing your winch line hook back to the winch.

One snatch block really helps, theres more ways to use em, for instance a double purchase, one block attached to the load, bring the winch line back to the winch through another snatch block then back to the weight your pulling. Now you have some pulling power.

Regards
Rusty


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## element47

Man, that's kind of a cool looking tractor! From the picture it looks eminently restorable...not that I would foolish enough to volunteer or undertake such a thing. I am sure those big rear tires cost a bloody fortune. Some projects are better left just dreamt about, if you know what I mean.


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## rusty

element47 said:


> Man, that's kind of a cool looking tractor! From the picture it looks eminently restorable...not that I would foolish enough to volunteer or undertake such a thing. I am sure those big rear tires cost a bloody fortune. Some projects are better left just dreamt about, if you know what I mean.



Definitely know what you mean, I have a Massey 35 that I'm restoring, the rear tires are half the size of that McCormick which cost me $800.00 each and they still need to be filled with calcium chloride. 

Now the Massey sits while i take on yet another project the Skid Steer which is getting a complete engine transplant, going from gasoline to diesel.

Regards
Rusty


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## darshevo

rusty said:


> For the record I will not be showing a picture of every piece of scrap i pick up, just those that have a possible interest.



You pull up some really cool stuff, by all means please do show pictures. Down here those old farm tractors usually do about 2x scrap value with a diesel or one with a loader or other attachments doing even better yet. Nice find

-Lance


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## rusty

Found this fairly large heat exchanger on the way back from the scrap yard, it's really no big deal but thought I should share with you all how I go about removing the brass tubing.

Had I a loader I would have simply cut the bolts that hold the lid on, just beneath this is a heavy plate where the brass tubes have been swedged in, this would have lifted right out complete with the tubes attached. We're doing this the hard way, I cut the outer shell of the heat exchanger to access the tubing,

The first three rows of tubing are cut using the skill saw, then when the blade can go no deeper the plasma comes into play. 

I figure there could be as much as 1000 lbs of brass inside, I really hate these things but hey I fellow has to earn a buck where he can.

Regards
Rusty


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## rewalston

HOLY SMOKES


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## Palladium

I love my gold, but i to have been known to drag something up out the woods if it's worth money. That big bulky thing is a gold nugget in disguise. Good find.


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## element47

Rusty, you have a panorama of scrap metal there!


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## Palladium

You can tell a man who knows how to use his tools. Note the clean crips cuts he made to open it up. Shows skill with that torch.


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## rusty

Palladium said:


> You can tell a man who knows how to use his tools. Note the clean crips cuts he made to open it up. Shows skill with that torch.



Palladium when I'm cutting up scrap I'm not trying for crisp cuts, a severance cut works for me, sometime I miss a section where I have only cut half way through and the parts do not want to separate this is where a quick rap with the sledge brakes it apart.

Almost like cutting glass.

At 62 years old I can still be fooled, the heat exchanger tubing is not brass as i originally thought. The material is monel / inconel both of which are trade names for a nickel alloy used in extreme environment conditions such as heat exchangers and marine applications. 

Scrap Monel $6.00+ dollars, so my day didn't turn out half bad sitting in the rain cutting this thing up.

Here's what is left of the heat exchanger, wife packed a bunch away making room for me to work safe. :lol: 

Regards
Rusty


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## Palladium

What i was talking about is most rookies will start a cut and stop somewhere in the cut and start again. This leads to uneven lines and cuts and zig zag patterns. Yours looks good.


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## Geo

it takes a pro to cut that clean with a oxy/acet torch. not saying your not, but id bet money you cut it open with the plasma cutter. :lol:


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## rusty

Geo said:


> it takes a pro to cut that clean with a oxy/acet torch. not saying your not, but id bet money you cut it open with the plasma cutter. :lol:



Your right, plasma it was, I love that machine and use it for almost all my cutting. Forum members may recall that I purchased that machine almost 2 years ago from an ebayer in China delivered for $800.00.

I've had a few problems with it and probably know this machine inside out better than the guy that sold it. Would I purchase another - yes in a heartbeat.

Regards
Rusty


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## joem

I said it before,,,
Rusty you do find the big scale coolest stuff


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## rusty

The bad news is the tubing from the heat exchanger does not enough nickel to be Monel that would have sold for $7.00 lb, but has enough copper content to be sold as number 2 copper. 

The alloy contains.

Mo .522%
Nb 1.19
Bi .63
Zn 3.32
Cu 80.69
Ni 10.93
Co .28
Fe 1.33


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## Geo

sure looked much more yellow than #2 copper. be thankful they didnt try to give you yellow brass price. :lol:


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## rusty

Geo said:


> sure looked much more yellow than #2 copper. be thankful they didnt try to give you yellow brass price. :lol:



I sent a sample to the yard I used to deal with in B.C. for Marcel to shot with the XRF. 

Based on the XRF report I received form Marcel I will negotiate my price with the Manitoba yards over the telephone before it even gets loaded never mind leave the yard.


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## Geo

i can truly understand that.


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## TXWolfie

Dunno about most states but here in the Dallas area copper#2 is $3.17 Lb and yellow brass is $1.90 lb.


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## rusty

Homebuilt car trailer has turned into a truck, next spring rip into that old bus and make a larger trailer to tow behind this rig. 

Should be able to haul in 6 cars at a time - make every calorie of that fossil fuel pay.

Not a hell of a lot to say other than having fun and enjoying life as best I can.


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## Oz

It sure looks like your having fun Rusty! Nice rig.


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