# i give up ( and im usually not a quitter)



## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

i have now finnished my 14th batch of AR ( to give you an idea how new i am )
i process computer parts and cell phones
i know for a fact that i have gold in my AR because ive seen so much gold leaf in the filters after i soak parts in nitric.
ill tell you my exact process in a sec so yous can see that im sure i have the process right.

IM HAVING ENDLESS TROUBLE MAKING STANNOUS CHLORIDE TESTING SOLUTION
ive tried so many recipes ive lost count , and the most recent is the recipe from hokes book

first ill explain how ive been processing the material , then ill run through the way ive tried making the most recent batch of stannous
...............................................................................................................................................................
first i soak gold pins and curcuit boards in nitric acid.

then after about 2 days i filter it through 2 coffee filters and i use a spray bottle to keep spraying the contents untill only clear liquid comes out.

after the filter and its contents are dry , i put in in AR made from 40mls of nitric and 120mls of hcl and i stur it well to make sure all the contents mix well in solution.

then after 1 or 2 days i put some sulfuric acid in (approx 20mls) and i place on an electric hot plate to evaporate the nitric slowly on a low heat .
when its reduced to a syrup , i add some hcl and then add to heat again to return it to a syrup. i do that 3 times or untill i get no reaction from adding hcl.

by this time , the liquid is either black or a very dark brown colour . then i add 3 times its volume of hot water. then when cooled , i filter it through 2 new coffee filters.
the liquid that comes out is a nice gold colour and its at this stage that ive tried testing . then i add smb and let it stand.
each time the liquid has gone perfectly clear and i have fine dark dust looking residue on the bottom.
............................................................................................................................................................................
ok now the most recent mix ive tried to make of stannous is :

1 old 100ml bottle that once had cogh syrup which has been boiled in hot water to clean it
1.5 grams of stannous chloride crystals
1.5 grams of tin granuals which i hammered flat
first i tried 25 to 30 drops of hcl but the last time i tried 1/4 of the bottle
and finally 3/4 of the bottle has water.

first i soak the tin granuals in hcl , then add stannous crystals and water then mix and cover with the lid.



EVERY TIME I TEST WITH SOME SOLUTION ON A TISSUE AND ONE OR TWO DROPS OF MY STANNOUS MIX , I GET NO COLOUR REACTION AT ALL
can someone please help me before i throw the whole lot in the bin


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## patnor1011 (Aug 10, 2012)

Dissolve in distilled water. Spoonful (small spoon) in 0,1l of water. Add few drops of HCl. Why do you want to add tin in that? 
It seems that you have life supply of SnCl2 so you do not need to acidify too much and add tin - that is just measure for prolonging life of your solution. What you need to do is to make some standard solution. Dissolve some foils from fingers in HCl/Cl and put that in small bottle. Now try to test that with stannous.


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> Dissolve in distilled water. Spoonful (small spoon) in 0,1l of water. Add few drops of HCl. Why do you want to add tin in that?
> It seems that you have life supply of SnCl2 so you do not need to acidify too much and add tin - that is just measure for prolonging life of your solution. What you need to do is to make some standard solution. Dissolve some foils from fingers in HCl/Cl and put that in small bottle. Now try to test that with stannous.


the reason i added tin aswel is because i followed the directions in hokes book

before i was able to get some tin granuals , i tried making test solution with just water and crystals . i even tried making a mix with hcl and crystals . as i said above , ive tried so many recipes ive lost count.

what im finding most frustrating is when i read posts on this forum , i keep seeing 2 answers over and over..............have you read hokes book , and have you tested with stannous.

well ive read hokes book atleast 5 times and i cant get stannous to work


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## lazersteve (Aug 10, 2012)

Stannous chloride test (aka: 'Solution A') is very simple to make.

Here are two methods I have had great success with:

Method 1 ( my favorite) - 
1) Add 30 mL of 30%+ muriatic acid to 1-2 grams of powdered tin in a test tube with a glass stopper.
2) Allow the tin to react until it no longer fizzes with the stopper off. If a little solid tin remains in the bottom this is ok.
3) Stopper when not in use.

Method 2 -
1) Add 1 gram of white stannous chloride crystals to 30-50 mL of 30%+ muriatic acid in a test tube with a glass stopper.
2) Allow the crystals to dissolve ( may require some shaking of the test tube).
3) Stopper when not in use.

That's it. When the stannous indicates a suspected 'false negative' (when you think it should be positive, but it's not), check the stannous against your gold standard solution. The standard solutions are kept on hand to verify your stannous is working correctly. If the standard solution does not porduce a positive, make a new batch of Solution A.

Steve


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

lazersteve said:


> Stannous chloride test (aka: 'Solution A') is very simple to make.
> 
> Here are two methods I have had great success with:
> 
> ...


thanks steve but what is muriatic acid ? is it the same as hcl ? because that all i have besides my nitric and my sulfuric


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## samuel-a (Aug 10, 2012)

goldpete 

Pat is right.

A vital part of testing procedure is comparing results to standarts (known samples).
As such, testing known standarts solutions is basically a test for your SnCl2 test solution. It is also a rough indicator for concentration.


From your recovered and REFINED! gold so far, grab one gram exactly and dissolve it with minimal amount of AR or HCl+H2O2 30%.

To dissolve in AR, put the powder in 120 ml test tube and add 5-10 ml HCl and heat the tube from below with a low flame burner (do not boil), then drop in ONE drop of nitric acid and let it react completely. Again, make sure not to boil it, remeber the reaction it self is also exothermic. when the first drop of nitric is no loger dissolving gold, add one more. usually 2-4 drops is all it takes. 
The point here is to avoid haveing too much free nitric in the solution. Do this process under the hood.

When the gold powder is gone, dilute with distilled water to make up a 100 ml solution and stir well. Now you have a standart solution with known concentration - 1g/100ml or 10g/liter. To avoid confusion, i'll call this - 'Standart 1'

10 grams per liter is too concentrated standart to work with when doing recovery, so you need to make few more standart solutions.

From your previously made 'Standart 1' solution, using a plastic graduated pipettes, pull 10 ml of solution and put it in another 120 ml test tube. Now again dilute it with distilled water to make up a 100 ml solution. You now have a new test solution with known concentration of - 0.1g/100ml or 1g/liter. Call this - 'Standart 2'

You now can make another sample solution like 'Standart 2', only now, before dilution to 100 ml, add to it a gram or two or more of dissolved copper (in AR).

The possibilities are endless. Play around with concentration and indroduce different contaminants (try even involving PGM's). 
Also, It will be wise to try and make a known solution that resembles as much as possible in concentration and contamination to those solutions you are actually working with while doing recovery work.
Matrix Matching

You can make the same solution for Pd and Pt.

Eventually, if a known standart does not yield a colored result to SnCl2 test, then you know you need to replenish your SnCl2 solution.


edit: spelling and additions


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## ericrm (Aug 10, 2012)

have you make your standard test solution? if no,do your homework or stop complaining and using the precious time of the poeple here :x


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

thanks samuel but all the went straight over my head


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

ericrm said:


> have you make your standard test solution? if no,do your homework or stop complaining and using the precious time of the poeple here :x


omg , you didnt just ask that ?
did you even read my first post ?

ofcourse ive done my homework , and this post is about how im having trouble making the test solution .
and im not complaining , im seeking help before i pull my last few strands of hair out


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## ericrm (Aug 10, 2012)

lol im not talking about your stannous chloride solution. im talking about the solution you use to test your stannous chloride and nowhere even if you have been told to make some ,you mention to have make one............ if you did make one plz tell us the result ,if you didnt make one stop asking for help you will not go further in your gold recovery adventure because you refusing to do an important step foward


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

ericrm said:


> lol im not talking about your stannous chloride solution. im talking about the solution you use to test your stannous chloride and nowhere even if you have been told to make some ,you mention to have make one............ if you did make one plz tell us the result ,if you didnt make one stop asking for help you will not go further in your gold recovery adventure because you refusing to do an important step foward


i really dont understand what your saying.
making stannous is the most important step that i havent been able to master and thats what im asking help with
and if you read my first post , you would now that i have already discussed both processes that i have tried


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## lazersteve (Aug 10, 2012)

Pete,

Check out the Guided Tour Link below for common chemical abbrevations and names.

Steve


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

thanks buddy


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## joem (Aug 10, 2012)

> first i soak gold pins and curcuit boards in nitric acid.



Is soaking the board wise, is this the whole board with all components?
ALso I make stannous easy, get some tin ( first I bought a piece on ebay, then a member here sent me a life time size bar-which I shared with anothe meber Devo ). Then in a small jar with a plastic lid I put a small piece and HCL. I warmed it on a piece of black metal in the hot sun ( which we had a lot of lately). Works like a charm.


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## jeneje (Aug 10, 2012)

I would offer to send you some already made, but doing that is not helping you to understand the need for it. I don't why you can not make your stannous but Pete you have to slow down and take a break for awhile, what i mean is clear your mind, drink a cup of coffee and then start over with the process and BAM you have it - anotherwards you are trying to hard. Relax and do as lazersteve and others have advised you too and you will master the stannous thing.
Ken
:mrgreen:


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## patnor1011 (Aug 10, 2012)

Who knows maybe your powder (SnCl2) is old or it is not what it suppose to be. That is why you need standard solution. To check if your stannous work or not.


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## goldsilverpro (Aug 10, 2012)

Is the stannous chloride white or brown? White is what you want. If stored improperly, it can turn brown and not work as well, or not at all.

Are you pre-mixing your AR or, are you covering with HCl, heating, and then only using enough nitric, in small increments, to dissolve the gold?

If a great excess of nitric is used in the AR, the stannous chloride can initially produce a purple or black color (indicating gold), but this color can immediately and completely fade to no color at all. Try putting a drop of the solution you want to test on a spot plate or white plastic spoon. Add 3 drops of water to dilute it and then add a drop of stannous chloride solution. If gold is present, the color produced should be more permanent.


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## RESET (Aug 10, 2012)

samuel-a said:


> To dissolve in AR, put the powder in 120 ml test tube and add 5-10 ml HCl and heat the tube from below with a low flame burner (do not boil), then drop in ONE drop of nitric acid and let it react completely. Again, make sure not to boil it, remember the reaction it self is also exothermic. when the first drop of nitric is no longer dissolving gold, add one more. usually 2-4 drops is all it takes.
> The point here is to avoid having too much free nitric in the solution.





goldpete said:


> i put in in AR made from 40mls of nitric and 120mls of hcl and i stir it well to make sure all the contents mix well in solution.
> 
> then after 1 or 2 days i put some sulfuric acid in (approx 20mls) and i place on an electric hot plate to evaporate the nitric slowly on a low heat .
> when its reduced to a syrup , i add some hcl and then add to heat again to return it to a syrup. i do that 3 times or until i get no reaction from adding hcl.
> ...



While I have never processed gold and may be completely off base, I think the reason your testing is coming up negative is because you have free nitric in your solution. I realize that your repeated boilings and such are supposed to get rid of it but I am not sure how you could test to make sure. Try it the way Samuel says to make known solution and see if your stannous test doesn't work a little better. You may or may not be having trouble making the test solution but without a known standard, you are running blind.


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

RESET said:


> samuel-a said:
> 
> 
> > To dissolve in AR, put the powder in 120 ml test tube and add 5-10 ml HCl and heat the tube from below with a low flame burner (do not boil), then drop in ONE drop of nitric acid and let it react completely. Again, make sure not to boil it, remember the reaction it self is also exothermic. when the first drop of nitric is no longer dissolving gold, add one more. usually 2-4 drops is all it takes.
> ...


thats exactly what i first thoughttoo buddy , but then i see people say that theyve tested with nitric in and still got results. there was someone ( i forget who) up there who said get 10mls of hcl , put in gold foils and add one or two drops of nitric to make my known . and there was no mention of evaproating the nitric


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## goldpete (Aug 10, 2012)

jeneje said:


> I would offer to send you some already made, but doing that is not helping you to understand the need for it. I don't why you can not make your stannous but Pete you have to slow down and take a break for awhile, what i mean is clear your mind, drink a cup of coffee and then start over with the process and BAM you have it - anotherwards you are trying to hard. Relax and do as lazersteve and others have advised you too and you will master the stannous thing.
> Ken
> :mrgreen:


i totally get where your coming from jeneje , and 9 times out of 10 that works for me too.
but in this case , it took me a week from start to finnish , just taking my time with the who process . and then yesterday i took an hour ( yes and hour ) to make the stannous ...... i had notes with me so i didnt forget or leave anything out . i hammered flat 4 new pieces of tin granuals , i wieghd them and the stannous crystals and meashured the hcl . 
i even got the right colour , i was told many times it should be a milky white colour and thats exactly what i got. im so impressed with the way it looks that im doubting i have it wrong.
which then throws doubt back to my AR . but its not possible that there is no gold . there was soooooooooooooo much foils going into the AR , and i never spilled any or let it boil , it evaporated so slowly , took 3 days just to evaporate. 
thats the one thing i spent the most time with , if there is any nitric in there then i dont know how , i evaporated it down so far that there was only about 20 mls in the coffee pot . i repeated that 3 times and i no longer got any reaction when adding hcl . i even tried adding some more sulfuric and still ot no reaction


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## jeneje (Aug 10, 2012)

goldpete said:


> jeneje said:
> 
> 
> > I would offer to send you some already made, but doing that is not helping you to understand the need for it. I don't why you can not make your stannous but Pete you have to slow down and take a break for awhile, what i mean is clear your mind, drink a cup of coffee and then start over with the process and BAM you have it - anotherwards you are trying to hard. Relax and do as lazersteve and others have advised you too and you will master the stannous thing.
> ...



Pete, the only thing i can i say is - if you made the stannous right (it sounds like you have) and you have a gold standard to compare the results against and it shows negative then there is no gold there. Where it went i'm not sure, maybe someone else can shed some insite on it for you.

When processing foils it is best to use HCL/CL to dislove them. Then all you have to do is wait for the clorine to evaporate from the solution before dropping.

As far as testing with free nitric in solution i do that all the time and my test will show positive if the gold is there. 

I wish you the best but truly i don't have a clue where your gold went. I hate to hear anybody losing there gold - it is so hard to come by now days.
Ken


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## qst42know (Aug 11, 2012)

> first i soak gold pins and curcuit boards in nitric acid.



I suspect stannous isn't the problem, I believe your problem is in processing whole boards. Tin nitrate carried through your processing that was not washed away with water could create colloidal gold. Colloidal gold doesn't settle, doesn't precipitate, and isn't detected with stannous.

Stannous isn't very fussy, I have made working stannous from solder, pewter and tin shot. And a gold solution to prove it works from scratch test streak from a wedding ring on a test stone. It is far better to make it correctly in a standard accurate way but it has a broad tolerance it will function in. 

Whole boards are just full of trouble.


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## goldpete (Aug 11, 2012)

jeneje said:


> goldpete said:
> 
> 
> > jeneje said:
> ...


thankyou jeneje . i went and bought some bleach to use instead of nitric , is that ok or did it have to be chlorine ?


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## ericrm (Aug 11, 2012)

finaly...
the chlorine will be produce by the chemical reaction of bleach(i cant go in detail i dont know them)

edit ... vive google... NaClO + 2HCl = Cl2 + NaCl +H2O


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

ericrm said:


> finaly...
> the chlorine will be produce by the chemical reaction of bleach(i cant go in detail i dont know them)
> 
> edit ... vive google... NaClO + 2HCl = Cl2 + NaCl +H2O


so its ok for me to use bleach ? and do i still put one part bleach just as if it were nitric ?


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## Geo (Aug 12, 2012)

if im dissolving foils or powder, i add only enough hcl to cover the material and then add bleach 10-15 ml's at a time and stir each time. you can add bleach until all the foil or powder is dissolved. by just leaving it open and undisturbed, the chlorine will evaporate out of solution by itself. you can warm it until it steams to drive the chlorine out of solution faster.


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

Geo said:


> if im dissolving foils or powder, i add only enough hcl to cover the material and then add bleach 10-15 ml's at a time and stir each time. you can add bleach until all the foil or powder is dissolved. by just leaving it open and undisturbed, the chlorine will evaporate out of solution by itself. you can warm it until it steams to drive the chlorine out of solution faster.


that sounds really good thanks , ill definately be doing that from now on instead of using nitric. 
thankyou for your advice geo.

i have just posted a new subject asking how to prepare a piece of gold to make some solution to use for testing my stannous.
id be most greatful if you could take a look and give me your suggestions


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

qst42know said:


> > first i soak gold pins and curcuit boards in nitric acid.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Pete here is your answer. Also if any gold get dissolved it will readily precipitate on any metal on boards which was not dissolved. And that may be another thing why your stannous do not detect gold in solution.


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> qst42know said:
> 
> 
> > > first i soak gold pins and curcuit boards in nitric acid.
> ...


ok , i saw in a different post that AP is a really good thing to use for electronic scrap.
should i use AP and how do i use it ? 
does it get used instead of AR , after a niric soak . or instead of a nitric soak and prior to AR
the peroxide i can lay my hands on is 12%


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

Pete from your questions it is very clear that you did not read Hoke`s book, you did not studied forum Basic Guide. You are asking questions which you can answer yourself if you put minimum effort to try to learn or understand. 
If you do not stop for a while and put some effort in learning you will find that less and less people will react on your posts. While we try to help we cant hold your hand if you do not understand basics, if you do not know what you do.


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

This thread is named "I give up" - believe me you did not even started, you jumped in the middle and got lost. Why don't you start from Start?

*edited - links

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=6873#6873

http://www.scribd.com/doc/2815953/Refining-Precious-Metal-Wastes-C-M-Hoke


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> Pete from your questions it is very clear that you did not read Hoke`s book, you did not studied forum Basic Guide. You are asking questions which you can answer yourself if you put minimum effort to try to learn or understand.
> If you do not stop for a while and put some effort in learning you will find that less and less people will react on your posts. While we try to help we cant hold your hand if you do not understand basics, if you do not know what you do.


i have read the book , atleast 5 times


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> This thread is named "I give up" - believe me you did not even started, you jumped in the middle and got lost. Why don't you start from Start?
> 
> *edited - links
> 
> ...


i thought i was starting at the beginning


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

Forget Nitric soak. In electronics you will encounter many different materials with gold plating. Every type do have recommended procedure. In your case trying to process whole boards is tricky one. I do not believe that processing boards at home can be profitable, so in order to reduce costs you will have to go with cheap and reusable method. That is AP. There are many many threads regarding use of AP.


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

AP can be reused so it will save you on costs. Straight Nitric is not good on boards or pins if you do not have experience it complicate recovery by putting tin in solution.


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> AP can be reused so it will save you on costs. Straight Nitric is not good on boards or pins if you do not have experience it complicate recovery by putting tin in solution.


i do strip as much off the boards as i can . i try to put bare boards in the nitric


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

goldpete said:


> patnor1011 said:
> 
> 
> > AP can be reused so it will save you on costs. Straight Nitric is not good on boards or pins if you do not have experience it complicate recovery by putting tin in solution.
> ...



Why?


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> goldpete said:
> 
> 
> > patnor1011 said:
> ...


to avoid contaminating with too much base metals


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## patnor1011 (Aug 12, 2012)

You may be confused regarding values. You talk about boards. What do you want to recover from not populated boards. Do you talk about boards or fingers?
Boards plating (if any) is super thin. It will go off board in form of powder. How much do your nitric cost? How much do your waste disposition cost? You will still have tin in solution no matter how much do you scrape out. Maybe if you treat board in hot HCl before AR or Nitric then you might eliminate most of tin but question is - does amount of flash plating warrant cost of acid, chemicals and time spent trying to recover it?

Can you upload pictures of board you are talking about?


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

patnor1011 said:


> You may be confused regarding values. You talk about boards. What do you want to recover from not populated boards. Do you talk about boards or fingers?
> Boards plating (if any) is super thin. It will go off board in form of powder. How much do your nitric cost? How much do your waste disposition cost? You will still have tin in solution no matter how much do you scrape out. Maybe if you treat board in hot HCl before AR or Nitric then you might eliminate most of tin but question is - does amount of flash plating warrant cost of acid, chemicals and time spent trying to recover it?
> 
> Can you upload pictures of board you are talking about?


ok im going out on a limb here and ill probably get a negative response , but please try and see my point .
im as broke as someone can possibly be . computer parts and cell phones cost me nothing , and acid is relatively cheap .
ive tried everything to make ends meet , i cant work , im dissabled . and i have to do something about getting some money soon . this is my only hope.
im not a clever guy , i was useless at school , so alot of what im reading is over my head , but im trying , i really am.
im not after sympathy , i know everyone has sob stories . 
i just need help . 
im doing the best i can and im really trying to learn and to understand whats right and how to make this work


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## samuel-a (Aug 12, 2012)

goldpete 


As i read your about your situation, only one approach comes to my mind. Which is:
Source your scrap.
Dismantle and Seperate it. 
Cherry pick only high yield components (fingers, CPU's and such) if you still want to do some recovery for profit.
Find a buyer here on the forum and sell him the boards.
buy/get more scrap.

Like Pat, i think that chemically processing whole boards (with very few exceptions), is reserved for hobby, not business.
You would be far better served doing things this way so your turnaround is always fast and your overhead kept low.


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## jeneje (Aug 12, 2012)

goldpete said:


> patnor1011 said:
> 
> 
> > You may be confused regarding values. You talk about boards. What do you want to recover from not populated boards. Do you talk about boards or fingers?
> ...


Pete if I may here, there are people here on the board that will process your material for a fee. If it were me and i was having this much trouble and in your situation I would look for someone here to process for me until i could learn what i was doing better. Just a though man.
Ken


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## butcher (Aug 12, 2012)

goldpete, 

Do not give up, as you said you’re no quitter, but I would stand back and take another look at the big picture, you are trying to recover and refine gold, you have just begun and are not quite sure of how to do it, you keep running into problems and have to ask for help, this may get you out of one bind but you can barely catch your breath before you run into another problem, it all sounds so simple, surely all you do is mix a couple of chemicals and wind up melting pure gold bars, why are you having troubles?

I agree with patnor, do not quit before you even start, you have jumped into the middle, If I were you I would go back to the starting point, reading Hoke's Book, get your chemicals out and work on the getting acquainted experiments, get a good grasp of the basic principles, then also carry this type of experimentation on into what you learn from Laser Steve's website (and the forum), the processes he shows there, experiment with small batches of known processes and use clean high grade scrap and your chemicals, following each procedure step by step (do not experiment on changing the process, but experiment using the exact process, keeping other variables out of your materials or your reactions, so that when it works and you get a good grasp on the process you can use that process in recovery or refining, you will know what worked and have a better idea if something is different why it will not work and what steps you need to take to make it work, working with clean memory foils is a good place to learn the basics of the copper chloride leach and dissolving and precipitating gold, the material is relatively free from other metals that can give you trouble, and following what you learn from laser Steve's information he provides, you can get a good understanding of the principles, with studying Hoke's you also learn how to deal with other metals or reactions when you run into them later, work on one process before going to another, understand it well, this process after you learn it can also help you to understand another process you may study later, work like a scientist keep notes, work with a clean lab, learn the reaction working with experiments on small batches, and known materials with a fairly good idea of what to expect and why, spend time studying.

Do quit going the wrong way trying to recover and refine before you even learn (do not try and fly that airplane until you get some flying lessons, and asking help "how do I fly this thing" after you already took off from the ground is not going to help you make a smooth crash landing).

Do not give up, but start back at the beginning and do it right this time (you have learned more than you know up to this point, you have learned that it is not as easy as you thought, you are also beginning to see how much there is to this and that you need more understanding, take this knowledge back to the starting line, get some flying lessons in, and I bet we shall see you soar like an eagle when you are ready to fly.


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

jeneje said:


> goldpete said:
> 
> 
> > patnor1011 said:
> ...


good idea , thanks , its definately worth considering


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

butcher said:


> goldpete,
> 
> Do not give up, as you said you’re no quitter, but I would stand back and take another look at the big picture, you are trying to recover and refine gold, you have just begun and are not quite sure of how to do it, you keep running into problems and have to ask for help, this may get you out of one bind but you can barely catch your breath before you run into another problem, it all sounds so simple, surely all you do is mix a couple of chemicals and wind up melting pure gold bars, why are you having troubles?
> 
> ...


thanks for you great advice . i will stick to doing fingers and pins for now and save the boards for a later date.
i do eventually learn things , it just takes me longer than most people. thats why i hate to quit , i know ill eventually get there in the end.
you all are a wonderful bunch of people . i really appreciate everything people say on here. im just getting extremely frustrated when i try something over and over and over , even taking onboard peoples advice and it still fails. the stannous chloride is a classic example . ive tried it by the book , ive tried it the way people say and still no luck


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## butcher (Aug 12, 2012)

You will get it, and when you do your going to thump yourself in the forehead with the palm of you hand, and say why did I not see that it is so simple.


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## goldpete (Aug 12, 2012)

butcher said:


> You will get it, and when you do your going to thump yourself in the forehead with the palm of you hand, and say why did I not see that it is so simple.


lol im looking forward to that day


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## mls26cwru (Aug 17, 2012)

goldpete said:


> the liquid that comes out is a nice gold colour and its at this stage that ive tried testing . then i add smb and let it stand.
> each time the liquid has gone perfectly clear and i have fine dark dust looking residue on the bottom.



correct me if i am wrong, but shouldnt the dark dust be the gold? testing this 'clear solution' should produce a negative result with stannous?


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