# Recovering Plated Scrap Using Lazersteve's DVD



## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

This has been a great experience.

I was able to dissolve the base metals in my plated scrap with Nitric Acid.

It left little hollow shells of gold foil and flakes.

I filtered the spent acid off (and saved for cementing silver).

I then used a pair of magentic tweezers to pick through the whole batch.

I found stainless pieces and some solder so I picked them out.

My filters were really clogged up with gold mud. I used nine filters & saved.

I then rinsed each filter into a beaker with distilled water.

I let it settle and poured off the top liquid.

Gold mud and some gold flake were in the bottom of that beaker.

I put everything in a pyrex coffee pot and dissolved the gold using hydrochloric acid and clorox. Only a few flakes were left undissolved.

I had to stop at this point and let the dissolved gold solution cool while I went to a function.

Tomorrow I will filter the AuCl and drop the gold.

So far everthing has reacted right in step with Lazersteve's dvd.

I will post the results tomorrow.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

this is what the filters looked like after filtering the spent nitric acid


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

I used magnetic tweezers to get the magnetic junk out before dissolving the gold. Also found some bits of solder.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

I used a spray bottle to rinse each of the 9 filters I used into a beaker


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

After letting the mud in the beaker settle, I poured off the liquid and this is what was left over - i added it to the rest of the gold flakes.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

I put all of the material into a pyrex coffee pot in preparation to dissolve the gold with clorox and hydrochloric acid.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

I used 500ml of hydrochloric acid and 250ml clorox - It worked perfectly.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

Here is what the clorox and HCL looked like.


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## Barren Realms 007 (Nov 6, 2010)

You might want to consider doing some more cleaning on it before you dissolve your gold next time.


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## samuel-a (Nov 6, 2010)

Nice work kadriver 

Barren's comment is right on, eliminating as much base metals as possible before dissolving the gold will save you on the chemicals and result in better gold quality once dissolved and precipitated.


although, i must admit that i occasionally sin with that part, since i'm anyway doing a secund refining, i don't even buther to wash foils with acid... only one wash with H2O -> AR -> ppt -> put aside the gold powder.

In time, you'll adopt your own way of doing thing...
good luck


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

Thanks for your input - I will clean it better next time.

I got home and went to the shop to filter and drop the gold tonight.

I wanted to let it settle overnight.

I filtered the dissolved gold for times until the filter paper came out clean.

After all the rinsing, there was about 1300ml of AuCl.

I divided it into 2 - 1000ml beakers and added equal amounts of sodium metabisulfite dissolved in about 250ml of distilled water to each 1000ml beaker.

In about 15 or 20 seconds the color changed from a almost clear lime green to dark brown - just like on lazersteve's dvd. I could see tiny specs of gold forming in the solution.

I am posting pictures for all to see the results - This is a great forum - Thank you all. kadriver.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

I'll dissolve these with more hcl & clorox later on.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

Filter paper after four filterings.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

The dissolved gold in solution ready to drop out the gold.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

After adding the sodium metabisulfite to the right beacker, the color changed after 20 seconds or so of stirring.


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## kadriver (Nov 6, 2010)

a little time lapse photography over about 5 or 6 seconds.

Thanks for looking. I will melt it and post a picture of the button of gold tomorrow.

kadriver


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## kadriver (Nov 7, 2010)

I am a rookie - this is my first piece of gold refined from scrap plated jewelry.

I followed Lazersteve's DVD as closely as possible.

The gold button weighs 3.8 grams.

I lost some in a boil-over during Nitric Acid treatment.

I lost some to filtering mishaps.

I lost a bunch when I dried the powder too quickly - spatter all over the place out of the bowl!

The button is hard as a rock and I really had to pour on the heat to get it to melt.

There is probably some other metals in with the gold that made it hard.

I will carefully sort the type of plated scrap I use next time - selecting like items.

This batch was thrown together and had all different kinds of base metals.

I am very pleased, and this is a testimonial to the DVD - IT WORKED PERFECTLY.

This has been a very valuable learning experience - found many things I will do differently next time.

Thanks for looking - kadriver


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## Anonymous (Nov 7, 2010)

In his defense,it has a little pipe on top.Looks good bud.Good job.And thorough post.


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## bwcbob (Nov 7, 2010)

Was This process for Gold Filled scrap or Plated? I also have Steve's DVD's and I don't remember a DVD on plated scrap. Please correct me if I am wrong

Bob


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## texan (Nov 7, 2010)

kadriver said:


> The dissolved gold in solution ready to drop out the gold.



I know color on the net is subjective at times but that looks a little more on the green side than my AuCl looks...I do wash my gold residue in HCl before disolving the gold until the acid is colorless...that also removes the copper cloride that may have formed...which may be what contributes to the green color here. I have also taken the advice given me and do not filter the residue. There really is no need. I make sure there are no heavy metallics in the mix before the material goes in the AP the first time. Once you have the AuCl then filter and look for any gold that may have been missed...there should not be much.

Texan


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## Harold_V (Nov 8, 2010)

texan said:


> kadriver said:
> 
> 
> > I have also taken the advice given me and do not filter the residue. There really is no need.


The only need to filter when processing materials such as this is just before precipitation, with one exception, noted below. It makes no sense to filter, when you are removing traces of the very thing you hope to retain---the values. 

Solutions should be allowed the opportunity to settle, then decanted by siphoning. That eliminates the need to filter solutions that do not cooperate. 

A great trick to remember when processing gold filled items, often contaminated with lead and tin, is to do the preliminary processing with dilute nitric, which removes the base metals, then to gather all of the solids after rinsing well with (tap) water, and incinerating the lot, filter and all. This is one exception to not filtering, and for good reason. 

After the solids have been freed of moisture, they should be incinerated (including the filter), then given a wash in hot HCl. This process removes material that makes filtering of the gold chloride solution troublesome, and, best of all, keeps the traces of gold in the circuit, traces that are discarded in the way of purple mud. 

Harold


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## kadriver (Nov 8, 2010)

I used the DVD titled "Processing Gold Filled Scrap" purchased from Lazersteve's web page. I had great fun, I learned a ton, and I got a piece of gold.

I followed the DVD to the best of my ability and I got a good result!

Thanks to this fourm and Thanks to Lazersteve.


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## kadriver (Nov 8, 2010)

Harold, I just copied and pasted your input. I will use this proceedure next time I do a load of gold filled scrap. Thank you,
kadriver


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## lazersteve (Nov 9, 2010)

Since making the Gold Filled DVD I too have changed to using the wash, settle, and siphon technique Harold mentions. It saves having to deal with the filter collecting some of the gold. In my latr DVDs you'll notice I use the wash, settle, and siphon technique throughout.

Perhaps I should compile a list of changes that I have adopted since the filming of each DVD as I am always trying to improve the processes.


Steve


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