# Bag of Fingers



## floppy (Feb 1, 2021)

It’s been quite a few years but as soon as the weather warms a bit I’m gonna keep my self busy with this bag of goodness!!
13.5 pounds and the vast majority being double sided and heavy plated. All from very vintage telecom equipment. Yay!!


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## nickvc (Feb 2, 2021)

You should have a decent yield there so keep us informed when you start to process them 8)


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## floppy (Feb 2, 2021)

I love to hear your optimism Nick! I believe so too as I have processed a little over 2 pounds fingers from this exact type of boards and posted pics of the yield on hear about ten years ago. And I most certainly will post steps and pics of this process when I get started but it will be a little while yet due to temperatures that will be drastically falling to zero and below in these parts over the next few days. I’m trying to determine what temps would be be needed to realistically start the AP process so it doesn’t take too long.


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## floppy (Feb 13, 2021)

The collection is getting bigger and with the weather being so cold I’m getting antsy. Cut my stock pile into 1lb bags. 18 and counting, sound be getting pretty close to about 90 grams. Cait wait to see if I’m right, hell maybe by the time warming weather rolls around I’ll have about 25 pounds.


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## glorycloud (Feb 13, 2021)

Nice fingers! You will do well. Maybe not 5 grams a pound well but
you will be pleased with the yield. :G :G :G


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## Shark (Feb 13, 2021)

Nice and simple to process with good yields. I would be getting a bit anxious as well!


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## goldenchild (Feb 14, 2021)

I'd predict closer to 2 grams per pound. In the mean time maybe you could come up with a mechanical way of getting the gold off the fingers. That would save you a ton of work when you're ready to start with chemicals.


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## floppy (Feb 14, 2021)

I will post results from the first 2 pounds done one at time for results of each yield. The AP process is what I will use, this isn’t the first time for me. I have a few posts from about ten years ago using the same scrap as shown. Of those posts the first was 745 grams of scrap that yielded a 7 gram button and the second was 845 grams that yielded 9 grams of foils. So I’m pretty confident that these will yield between 4.5 to 5 grams per pound, but we will see. All of these fingers come from cards manufactured in the sixties and seventies.


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## floppy (Feb 14, 2021)

And on a side note, the 7 gram button and 9 grams of foils I spoke of in the last reply was tested by an XRF and bought by Matthew Warbet in the day, they were tested at .9995 and .9998 respectively. I thought that was pretty decent by a first timer!


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## scrapparts (Feb 15, 2021)

You have a nice batch to work with. Very good amount to process. If it were me, while it's very cold outside, I would do this.....

Put the fingers in a 5-gallon bucket that has holes in the bottom of it, placed in another 5-gallon bucket, add HCL/Muriatic Acid, add no more than 3 cap fulls of Peroxide, and with an air bubbler, add the same amount of distilled water to the solution.

With the air bubbler and the water to dilute the solution, you can let the fingers sit in the solution for a month or whatever, and when you are ready to work on the fingers, the most you'll need to do is pick through all the fingers that are completely stripped of the foils, without dissolving the gold, and not having to check on it until you're ready to process them.

Just be sure to have a copper bus bar to collect any possible gold that may dissolve. But if you double the solution with the distilled water, the most that would probably happen is that the copper would dissolve and you'll probably have nothing but gold flakes and some blank fingers in the bucket. The rest of the fingers may be loose enough to just use a toothbrush to remove the other foils, without ever using any heat. The air/bubbles are the keys when letting items sit in solutions without heat.

scrapparts.


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## floppy (Feb 15, 2021)

scrap parts, I’ve thought about getting started, buckets and bubblers is what I’ve always used. But I don’t know how the AP will handle -10 and lower temps. I think I should probably wait until the lows get back up in the high 20’s atleast


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## jmdlcar (Feb 15, 2021)

@floppy, I have I think about 1 pound of fingers if I can find them I like to trade Sterling Silver flatware for them.


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## floppy (Feb 15, 2021)

I appreciate the offer jmd, but fingers are the only that recover and refine, and this is the first batch of fingers I’ve had in a very long time.


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## jmdlcar (Feb 15, 2021)

Well I will have those fingers if ever want to trade or buy. And I weight was only 14.75 oz I thought I had 1 pound but that about 10 years ago.


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## floppy (Feb 15, 2021)

I thought these were a really cool find, just little cards for slots in chassis, no board attached to them.....well component board. Didn’t have to break nothing off, just pick up the pile


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## scrapparts (Feb 16, 2021)

floppy said:


> scrap parts, I’ve thought about getting started, buckets and bubblers is what I’ve always used. But I don’t know how the AP will handle -10 and lower temps. I think I should probably wait until the lows get back up in the high 20’s atleast


As long as you're using something like a 5-gallon pickle bucket AND you have a lid, it'll be fine in the cold. I have 13 lbs of contacts (4 contacts) that have copper on them. I put them in solution of straight muriatic acid and it's been a bit over a month now, and a lot of the copper is dissolved. I used 1-1/2gal of acid and an air bubbler. It's been cold here for a long time and seem to be getting worse, but the acid is good to go. It won't freeze. Well, it shouldn't freeze.

If you're wanting to work on them, you could easily setup your unit and the good thing about it is that you can leave the bucket outside, in the freezing cold. As long as the lid isn't tight on it, and an air bubbler is used, it's a set-n-go way to processes them without spending much time on them.

Wow, you have a nice score there. From here on out, if you do process them, you'll having your own yields data, and know if it's worth it to collect certain gold-bearing items. Certain items I've been saving over the years are being dealt with, yet, there are gold-bearing items I no longer collect for the gold they hold. 

If you want to see if saving/collecting/buying them, process them and see the yields you'll have. 

scrapparts


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## floppy (Feb 16, 2021)

Scrapparts, do you use HCL/bleach to turn your foils into solution? Only reason I ask is because I noticed that when I did this quite a few years ago, when I got to processing about 4 pounds at a time it took forever to get the foils into solution with that method. If I only had 10 or 12 grams it seems to go to solution fairly quickly. That’s one reason I was thinking of stripping in smaller batches and processing. I don’t use nitric and am not going to start now.


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## floppy (Feb 16, 2021)

One more question if you don’t mind scrapparts, what do you use to keep your bubbler hose in the solution? I used the stone it came with years ago and it turned to solution, I ended up making a ring with hose only and kept it down with the bucket. But it always floated to the top when I would agitate the finger bucket.


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## butcher (Feb 16, 2021)

You can use a small hot nail or pin to punch holes in the sides of the tubing, heat, and seal the end of the tubing if needed you can use a weight to hold it down with something inert to the solutions like a piece of PVC pipe over the hose where it goes down into the bucket before it gets to your loop of hole and holes...


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## Shark (Feb 16, 2021)

I think it was GoldSilverPro that suggested using PVC and making a frame that fit snug to the bottom of the bucket and used a pipe running down to it for the air supply. (You need to add several small holes for the bubbles to escape of coarse) Not to snug as it will need to be removed between processes. He also advocated using a bucket warmer to help things along, and it may be just what you need in really cold weather.


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## rickbb (Feb 17, 2021)

I use bleach now instead of nitric or even poor man's nitric, it does to seem to take more time, but its benefits, (not nitric, cheaper), outweigh that for me. I have more time than anything else.


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## scrapparts (Feb 17, 2021)

floppy said:


> Scrapparts, do you use HCL/bleach to turn your foils into solution? Only reason I ask is because I noticed that when I did this quite a few years ago, when I got to processing about 4 pounds at a time it took forever to get the foils into solution with that method. If I only had 10 or 12 grams it seems to go to solution fairly quickly. That’s one reason I was thinking of stripping in smaller batches and processing. I don’t use nitric and am not going to start now.


I use any and all of these when I have them available. 
Nitric Acid
Peroxide
Bleach.

The bleach and peroxide are great for gold foils. When using peroxide, you have to be very careful because more than 1 cap-full per gallon of solution tends to dissolve the foils. To prevent that, just add at least half the solution amount of distilled water.

The reason I add water to my solution is that if I'm going to let it sit without bothering it for days, weeks or longer, the water would need to evaporate before the solution is concentrated enough to dissolve the foils. Straight solution requires you to monitor it because it WILL eventually dissolve some of the foils if left in solution too long, no matter if you make the recipe by instructions.

I had gold foils to disappear on me after days of sitting in solution, probably because I put too much peroxide in the solution. It may not seem like much, but any amount more than a cap-full per gallon of solution will dissolve the foils.

Now, on the other hand, if you want to remove the foils from the boards first, you can use:
HCL+bleach
HCL+peroxide
HCL+Nitric

either of the above will work, with the addition of distilled water to dilute the solution. When you dilute the solution, all of the water you added would need to be evaporated before the foils start to dissolve, but in the meantime, all of your foils will fall off the boards without any questions.

If you want to see the foils come off in a few hours at most, put them in a beaker and get the solution to a boiling point. Just remember where your starting solution is at BEFORE you add the distilled water. As long as the water level doesn't get to where the solution level is at, the foils will fly around in the solution. It's a beautiful sight. 

scrapparts


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## scrapparts (Feb 17, 2021)

floppy said:


> One more question if you don’t mind scrapparts, what do you use to keep your bubbler hose in the solution? I used the stone it came with years ago and it turned to solution, I ended up making a ring with hose only and kept it down with the bucket. But it always floated to the top when I would agitate the finger bucket.


I don't use any stones because I assume they wouldn't last long, and reading from you that they deteriorated on you, confirms my beliefs.

I use a half inch (I think) PVC tubing attached to the inside of the bucket, and then stick my hose through the PVC going all the way out the other end of the PVC. It provides bubbles/air very well. I'll post some pictures and information on how anyone can make their own bubbler(s) that won't fail on you.

For the sake of using acids and recovering of precious metals, I do not put anything in my solution for air/agitation.. except the air hose. PVC and air tubing will outlast probably anything else you put in your solutions to help with air/bubbling action.

I got really creative over the past 2 months with all the 5-gallon buckets, 2-gallon buckets and other containers to use and save money on beakers, containers, filtration. You probably have access to a lot of these items I'll show as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer this week. 

scrapparts


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## floppy (Feb 18, 2021)

jmdlcar said:


> Well I will have those fingers if ever want to trade or buy. And I weight was only 14.75 oz I thought I had 1 pound but that about 10 years ago.



I’m sorry jmd, I thought you were asking me to trade you fingers. I don’t have any sterling to trade you or I would.


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## floppy (Feb 18, 2021)

butcher said:


> You can use a small hot nail or pin to punch holes in the sides of the tubing, heat, and seal the end of the tubing if needed you can use a weight to hold it down with something inert to the solutions like a piece of PVC pipe over the hose where it goes down into the bucket before it gets to your loop of hole and holes...



Thanks for the advice Butcher, that gives me some good insight on how to proceed. Much appreciated!


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## floppy (Feb 18, 2021)

Shark said:


> I think it was GoldSilverPro that suggested using PVC and making a frame that fit snug to the bottom of the bucket and used a pipe running down to it for the air supply. (You need to add several small holes for the bubbles to escape of coarse) Not to snug as it will need to be removed between processes. He also advocated using a bucket warmer to help things along, and it may be just what you need in really cold weather.



I had never even thought of a bucket warmer, i would like to give one a whirl, but when I googled them up I found they’re kinda pricey. I’m gonna look and ask around to see if I can find one second hand. Thanks for the advice!


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## floppy (Feb 18, 2021)

scrapparts said:


> floppy said:
> 
> 
> > One more question if you don’t mind scrapparts, what do you use to keep your bubbler hose in the solution? I used the stone it came with years ago and it turned to solution, I ended up making a ring with hose only and kept it down with the bucket. But it always floated to the top when I would agitate the finger bucket.
> ...


 
I look forward to pics scrapparts, I’m a much better visual learner, I love pics and step by step videos.


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## butcher (Feb 19, 2021)

as an alternative you may want to look at plumbing pipe heat tape, heat wire, or thermostatic controlled pipe heating strips, these are more common and available as well as they can be cheaper than the blanket type, or bucket type blanket heaters.


If using strip or resistance wire to make a bucket heater, you may need to look into distributing the heat better or more evenly across the surface of the bucket with something like metal or put the wire into a blanket material (or just get creative with the resistance wire)...

Another option you may consider is submersible water heaters, cattle horse trough tank heaters. heat water to have your bucket sitting in (double boiler type setup)...

Plywood cabinet insulated, with a heat lamp (hot box to keep bugs and the cats and squirrels out in the cold).

Where there is a will or purpose, and ideas, then you can find the way.


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## scrapparts (Feb 19, 2021)

butcher said:


> as an alternative you may want to look at plumbing pipe heat tape, heat wire, or thermostatic controlled pipe heating strips, these are more common and available as well as they can be cheaper than the blanket type, or bucket type blanket heaters.
> 
> 
> If using strip or resistance wire to make a bucket heater, you may need to look into distributing the heat better or more evenly across the surface of the bucket with something like metal or put the wire into a blanket material (or just get creative with the resistance wire)...
> ...



butcher, that is so creative. Some of the ideas started popping in my head. I am getting my setups together piece by piece, due to the weather, but I have so many buckets, containers and the like that I've accumulated over the last 3 years. I've made some straining/filtering buckets that already save me countless hours filtering. 

You also gave me the idea of adding heat to different setups that will work. Thanks again for your great knowledge. It reminds me to get creative.

scrapparts


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## floppy (Feb 21, 2021)

So we have gotten a little reprieve from the polar vortex that’s been plaguing us for a couple of weeks so I decided to start the process of defoiling the 20 pounds of fingers I have compiled. I am posting a couple of pics of my setup below. I am using a dual output bubbler to supply air to two five gallon buckets and have one gallon ice cream buckets inside, with the bottoms drilled with a strainer pattern. I drilled holes around the side very close to the bottom so I could zip tie the air hoses around the bottom edge of each ice cream bucket. I figured if I’m going to go with the patient route, instead of starting with one pound in each bucket for data purposes, I used three pounds in each bucket. I had 20 ziplock bags filled with 455 to 460 grams in each bag. So a with a little math I will still get the data that one pound batches would have given. Each five gallon bucket has a lid loosely fit to the top of each bucket and they are housed in an all plastic bin that I had in my garage that really had no use. When the process is complete I will post pics of the yield from each bucket. So for now, all I have is time.


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## Shark (Feb 22, 2021)

Sorry, been gone a few days.

Butcher is right there is a way where there is will. I have used heating pads, the kind for sore muscles and things, and sit a bucket on top of them. Taking an electric blanket apart will work also. The wire is coated and placed between two blankets in such a manor they come apart like a puzzle. 

The set up your using now resembles the one I started with that ended up being my first fume hood.


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## scrapparts (Feb 26, 2021)

*floppy,*

If that cabinet is metal (magnet sticks to it), that thing will corrode in a few weeks or a bit longer, but it won't last. A setup like that needs to be PVC/plastic.

Also, even still, it will destroy that cabinet soon is because there doesn't seem to be any lids for the buckets. You MUST have lids on them to keep deterioration at its lowest, IF that cabinet is metal. Don't lock the lids down, just place them over the buckets and let them vent. Also, if the weather is in the 40's and above, you don't need the cabinet at all. Just place them outside somewhere, out of reach of animals and humans, and the natural heat from the sun will be in your favor. Even in the cabinet you have them in, the heat it'll build up and work for you stripping your fingers, yet, you'll destroy that cabinet at the same time.

If your buckets must be surrounded/enclosed, use brick, wood or plastic. Using metal doing what we do can be your worst nightmare because it'll corrode before you know it.

I didn't forget about the pictures and how to make the containers and such that we all need. Now, we're in the 50's+, I'll make time to get to my lab and show some easy step-by-step ways to make the things you'll need. and hopefully, other members will benefit from the information. 

scrapparts


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## floppy (Feb 27, 2021)

scrapparts said:


> *floppy,*
> 
> If that cabinet is metal (magnet sticks to it), that thing will corrode in a few weeks or a bit longer, but it won't last. A setup like that needs to be PVC/plastic.
> 
> ...



I appreciate your input scrapparts, but the cabinet was junk I just hadn’t thrown it out yet. But it is completely plastic, not even magnets on it to to keep the doors together, and my buckets do have lids that lay over the top. Trust me I know the corrosion it causes, I found that out the hard way about ten years ago. If you leave it around any metal they will pay the price. I did find out something new this time around though, if you use zip ties to secure your air tube to the bottom of your buckets they last just about 2 days or at least that’s how long the ones I put on did. They will now how to be fished out when the foils are ready for harvest. I started the buckets on the 20th of this month. I have agitated every two days and today they are starting to come along quite well but still have time to go. I’m hoping by next Sunday they will be ready. I’ll keep the post updated. I’m pretty curious to see the yield.


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## floppy (Feb 27, 2021)

I put the buckets in a cabinet this time, because the last time I did this I used a lid and set it in a corner by my house. The fumes even with a lid aren’t good the vinyl siding I case anyone was wondering. It faded a fairly large portion of the siding quite badly. I had to replace three strips


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## scrapparts (Feb 28, 2021)

floppy said:


> I put the buckets in a cabinet this time, because the last time I did this I used a lid and set it in a corner by my house. The fumes even with a lid aren’t good the vinyl siding I case anyone was wondering. It faded a fairly large portion of the siding quite badly. I had to replace three strips


Wow,

Good to know that. Glad you shared that!

scrapparts


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## jack_burton (Mar 2, 2021)

Looks awesome, following!


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## floppy (Mar 6, 2021)

Well eleven days into the soak, and the fingers were ready to harvest. Not all the fingers were stripped cleanly, the overwhelming majority was though. So I saved the partially stripped for another day. I will post a pic of the two three pound batches later tonight after the foils dry and show weight. But I do have one question, the filter I ran my AP through pouring of to get the foils left a very black sludge in the filter. I will post a pic of one filter. Any ideas what it could be? I know there are some gold foils in it. Would inceneration have to be used to process the filters? I will be saving the filters in an airtight bag and an airtight box for future project. I am super excited to weigh the dry foils before the bleach takes them to solution.


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## floppy (Mar 6, 2021)

On a second note, after filtering the AP solution I added the bubbler and a steel bar to rejuvenate each bucket for the next batch of fingers. Each bucket has a about a gallon and a half of AP and processed three pounds of fingers. How long would you let it cement for before filtering the copper out and reusing?


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## FrugalRefiner (Mar 6, 2021)

floppy said:


> On a second note, after filtering the AP solution I added the bubbler and a steel bar to rejuvenate each bucket for the next batch of fingers.



:?: 

The "AP" solution, which is actually a CuCl2 solution, depends on the copper. If you add steel, you'll no longer have a CuCl2 solution.

Dave


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## butcher (Mar 6, 2021)

Spend some time gaining a better understanding of the cupric chloride leach. dealing with waste, and the ferric chloride leach, I feel you have some confusion about these processes you are attempting to use.

A study of these should answer all of your questions here, you seem to be confused on how to recover your values and reuse your solutions.

If you added iron to the solution and cemented out the copper you no longer have a copper chloride solution.

Normally we will add copper metal to the solution (not iron) to cement out precious metals leaving us with a copper-rich ionic solution Of CuCl to rejuvenate back into CuCl2 using a splash of acid and air...


Normally we only add iron to remove copper and a few other metals as a part of the waste treatment process.


You now have an iron chloride solution which can also be used as a ferric chloride leach, although it is somewhat different than the cupric chloride leaching process in how it is best used and rejuvenated and can be somewhat more complicated.

Old relay telephone exchange

The black could very possibly be silver chloride after sitting in the sun or dirty cemented gold or both, possible values at any rate.


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## floppy (Mar 6, 2021)

Well I try to read as much on this forum. Apparently my memory, comprehension or both have came up a little short. I have replaced the iron bars with copper buss bars. All I want to accomplish at this point is to rejuvenate the solution in both buckets to continue the reclamation of gold from 14 more pounds of fingers. I am assuming that the two hours of time spent for the iron in the solution didn’t ruin it. I really miss access to LaserSteves website, as I am more of a visual learner and that’s what I used ten years ago when I had my first batch of fingers that I processed. Is there a particular post you could post a link to that talks about treating AP waste? Any information that I could couple with reading would be very appreciated. Thank you. 

Kenny


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## butcher (Mar 7, 2021)

You can have both iron and copper in solution as a solution ferric and cupric chloride, both of which will work as a leach for base metals, although this normally takes more concentrated solutions and heating to be effective, you also will need to understand what is going on during the leaching process, for example, the formation of white salts of copper and other metals upon cooling or oxidation-reduction potentials of the leach solution.
For that matter, depending on the oxidation state of the metal ions (and thus oxidation potential of the solution), we can have both copper and iron in solution as cuprous and ferrous chlorides that will not work to dissolve more copper or base metals very well at all.

You can always take the copper cemented from the iron chloride solution (the white copper I chloride salt or the cemented copper metal) and add some HCl and air to the solution and be right back to a working cupric chloride solution ready to take electrons from the base metals and dissolve them into solution as ions or salts of those metals...


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## floppy (Mar 7, 2021)

butcher said:


> You can have both iron and copper in solution as a solution ferric and cupric chloride, both of which will work as a leach for base metals, although this normally takes more concentrated solutions and heating to be effective, you also will need to understand what is going on during the leaching process, for example, the formation of white salts of copper and other metals upon cooling or oxidation-reduction potentials of the leach solution.
> For that matter, depending on the oxidation state of the metal ions (and thus oxidation potential of the solution), we can have both copper and iron in solution as cuprous and ferrous chlorides that will not work to dissolve more copper or base metals very well at all.
> 
> You can always take the copper cemented from the iron chloride solution (the white copper I chloride salt or the cemented copper metal) and add some HCl and air to the solution and be right back to a working cupric chloride solution ready to take electrons from the base metals and dissolve them into solution as ions or salts of those metals...



Thank you for your update Butcher. I went and took the iron out of the buckets and replaced with copper as soon as I read your post last night. There was no visable reaction to the iron, I didn’t sand off the paint so I assume it was acting as a barrier.


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## floppy (Mar 7, 2021)

So today I took my yield from the two buckets and proceeded to making Auric Chloride with bleach. I had 34.4 grams of foils and impurities such as fiberglass and a little bit of filter paper that the foils were stuck to. I started by adding 400ml of Hydrochloric acid and then slowly added about 300ml of bleach over a period of about 1 and a half hours. I also did this on a warmer on low heat. It was the most foils I’ve ever tried to digest at one time. Typically I do about 10 to 15 grams at a time. But things went really nice, it was a slightly breezy day so it made staying away from the fumes easy. I filtered the solution twice and I think I have a very nice looking batch of AuCl3. I think that is the correct way to write the compound. Here is a pic of the finished product, I will let the chlorine dissipate for a day or two and make the drop! I’ll keep you posted with the results of that process.


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## butcher (Mar 8, 2021)

It is a nice looking solution, just do not break the beaker and plate your ford truck bed with gold


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## floppy (Mar 8, 2021)

Well it weighed in quite a bit lighter than I had expected, but it’s still a pretty sight none the less. It’s been many years since I’ve held one of these beauties and it still feels just as glorious as ever! I have saved my wasted and filters hoping maybe I’ve left something behind. But I do have 14 more pounds to add to this little chunker. To all of you that are gracious enough to share your experience,knowledge, and opinions I want to say thank you. You definitely had made life a little happier and more interesting for a whole ton of people.....safer too. Hope you enjoy the pics.


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## butcher (Mar 9, 2021)

Man, that gold has a beautiful shine of its own, just from seeing it, it has brightend my day. 
Thank you for posting the pictures, keep them coming.


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## floppy (Mar 19, 2021)

butcher said:


> Man, that gold has a beautiful shine of its own, just from seeing it, it has brightend my day.
> Thank you for posting the pictures, keep them coming.



Well the foils are dropping a lot faster than I expected in this weather, I just finished up the second run of the 20 pound lot I started with. The last pic posted on this thread only shows 18, but I did manage to fill up 2 more bags as well 385 grams in the GTE rectangular cards posted earlier in this thread. Today’s foils were from 3 1lb bags in one bucket, the scraps that didn’t strip completely from the first batch, and the weird rectangular cards. I don’t know the weight of the partially stripped fingers, but the rectangular cards were 385 grams in total. I started the digestion with 20 grams of foils. The picture of the button below shows you the end result, so looks to have had just under 6 grams of waste. So just under ten pounds so far and 33.2 is where I stand. It’s not looking to be 5 grams a pound stuff but I sure am happy and it’s beautiful to look at as well as bounce it it the palm of your hand.. Now it’s time to go back to the stockpile and grab six more bags to toss in the buckets!!!


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## floppy (Apr 30, 2021)

Here’s a couple pictures of the total amount I was able to recover from the stock picture I started this post with. It’s not as much as I thought I’d get, but definitely worth it and nice to look at while I figure out what I want to do with it. To those who engaged with me on this post, thank you. It was as fun as I remember it being last time!!


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## glorycloud (May 2, 2021)

A good yield. 3.156 grams per pound. Well done! :G


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## floppy (May 5, 2021)

You certainly can’t complain about 3 per pound. Well worth the effort! And thank you for the compliment


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