# Scrap Find issue



## rumaanmallik (Jul 2, 2022)

I am from India. Plz someone tell me where i find gold scrap ? and how i Find?


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## Martijn (Jul 2, 2022)

Welcome to the forum. 
You'll have to look for whatever you can find. Here is a list of things that contain gold or precious metals. 








List of Items That Contain Precious Metals


SCRAP ITEMS THAT CONTAIN PRECIOUS METALS 1) Jewelry and Dental a) Karat Gold b) Sterling Silver c) Gold Teeth and Plates d) Platinum - Pt/Ir, Pt/Ru, etc. e) Gold-Filled f) Buffing Dust g) Filings h) Floor Sweeps i) Carpets j) Traps or Settling Drums and Sludges k) Dental Amalgam l) Cyanide...




goldrefiningforum.com




Before you plan to recover metals with chemicals study the safety section. 
We're dealing with toxic chemicals and salts here. 
Present your plan here before you start anything for us to review. 

Ask if you have any questions here in this thread. 
Have fun and be safe. 

Martijn.


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## justinhcase (Jul 2, 2022)

Well, want an interesting question.
That conundrum has basically underwritten humanity's entire understanding of matter and facilitated the modern world.
So sadly there are no simple answers.
You must simply look and work harder than the local competition.


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## VK3NHL (Jul 3, 2022)

Seek & thee shall find


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## orvi (Jul 3, 2022)

This is kind of question like: "What I should do to became a milionaire ?" 
There are no exact guidelines how to achieve this. And there are no guidlines on how to collect and find e-scrap. Every country is different. While there was a prevalent trend in European countries to just get rid of it in any way possible, last years we see drastic reverse on this trend and more companies emerging on the field of big players.

Either you work hard or smart. How to work hard... That is probably thing you know. Meet more people, get more material, more opportunities = more chances to strike a very good deal.
Or you work smart. And this is the thing anybody must figure for himself - finding holes in the e-waste market is difficult. There is quite a competition, not to mention countries like India, where operating margins are ultra low due to very relaxed, if even present (enviromental) regulations and labor price = everybody is pushing the numbers, because processing is cheap.

Either you will enter the field where isn´t too much people (but the reason there isn´t too much people interested is that it isn´t particularly easy), or create your own field where you will be your own boss to set the margins and rules. But the chance of achieving this is very very low. Completely possible, but it is helpful to stay realistic.


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## GoIdman (Jul 3, 2022)

rumaanmallik said:


> I am from India. Plz someone tell me where i find gold scrap ? and how i Find?


Hi, wellcome to the forum.
Since you are in India, you can find a profitable niche in depopulating motherboards.
This is a segment that is very labour intense and most of the scrap refiners hate working with it.
You can depopulate, sort and sell your materials to the refiners and from each batch you can stop a small amount for yourself to have an income, even when you are low on materials.

Before attempting any refining, download and read Hoke's book.

There is a larger market in recovery and for start, I reccomend you to start with recovery until you generate a steady income than you can invest in refining. You can become a local supplier for different sorted material, MLCC, pins and connectors, and so on.

Note that there is a good market for the copper from the boards, after depopulating it.

Hope this helps,

Be safe

Pete.


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## rumaanmallik (Jul 3, 2022)

GoIdman said:


> Hi, wellcome to the forum.
> Since you are in India, you can find a profitable niche in depopulating motherboards.
> This is a segment that is very labour intense and most of the scrap refiners hate working with it.
> You can depopulate, sort and sell your materials to the refiners and from each batch you can stop a small amount for yourself to have an income, even when you are low on materials.
> ...


thank you very much sir it was helpful for me /


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## rumaanmallik (Jul 3, 2022)

Martijn said:


> Welcome to the forum.
> You'll have to look for whatever you can find. Here is a list of things that contain gold or precious metals.
> 
> 
> ...


thank you very much


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## swaminair (Aug 3, 2022)

GoIdman said:


> Hi, wellcome to the forum.
> Since you are in India, you can find a profitable niche in depopulating motherboards.
> This is a segment that is very labour intense and most of the scrap refiners hate working with it.
> You can depopulate, sort and sell your materials to the refiners and from each batch you can stop a small amount for yourself to have an income, even when you are low on materials.
> ...


Real soul with helping attitude but some sourcing will provide more help,any ideas on ram yield so can procure ram scrap and start refining with rams.


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## GoIdman (Aug 4, 2022)

swaminair said:


> Real soul with helping attitude but some sourcing will provide more help,any ideas on ram yield so can procure ram scrap and start refining with rams.


Everyone has different ways of finding the materials...the source can be from trashbins through fleamarkets up until pc repairshops/services....
Some go and talk to companies and collect and transport the scrap from them, some have contracts of scrapping with companies, some are buying from e-bay or flea market..... you have to find your source according to your possibilities...

Be safe 

Pete


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## swaminair (Aug 4, 2022)

GoIdman said:


> Everyone has different ways of finding the materials...the source can be from trashbins through fleamarkets up until pc repairshops/services....
> Some go and talk to companies and collect and transport the scrap from them, some have contracts of scrapping with companies, some are buying from e-bay or flea market..... you have to find your source according to your possibilities...
> 
> Be safe
> ...


Thank you mate checking flea markets but no categories returned, search term itself is a genie there.will try some different options, I searched for pentium pro processors in vain,you are right pc repairshops can give the material, have to explore with them.
regards
swami nair


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## jons007 (Aug 4, 2022)

i have scrap cpu and boards see my post!


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## swaminair (Aug 4, 2022)

Thank you saw your post and responded.


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## Martijn (Aug 4, 2022)

Once you know how to process the material environmentally friendly, maybe you can apply for a permit and/or a certificate to show companies that need such a paper to show they disposed of their e-waste responsibly. 

You could advertise to collect it in containers at customers and pick them up when they're full and even get paid for trash removal. 

This will increase your chances a lot. 

Ask for a bigger fee when there are monitors. They cost money to recycle. 

Martijn.


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## swaminair (Aug 5, 2022)

Martijn said:


> Once you know how to process the material environmentally friendly, maybe you can apply for a permit and/or a certificate to show companies that need such a paper to show they disposed of their e-waste responsibly.
> 
> You could advertise to collect it in containers at customers and pick them up when they're full and even get paid for trash removal.
> 
> ...


Dear friend
There were too many trade enquiries floating from netherlands,is it true that netherlands provides in bulk-I cannot confirm them as everything seems fine online but they seek advance payment and they impose 100 kg as a sample and provide only tons.

Can't confirm them is that true about netherlands.,shall I provide you the companies offering them,they provide pentium pro at the cheapest prices but seems impossible to buy with them ,without checking small how can we respond to buy or work on it to buy.

would you help them check and procure such samples or make payment.I can rely you but not the trading one's though they provide VAT registration number and website contacts with phone ,,their payment is always with TT and westernunion worse btc.
I sought them for paypal.But as it shows Netherlands I thought you can certainly help in this aspect,I don't intend to trouble you but in case if it works it will be mutually beneficial.Hope a prospective solution from you being a citizen of Netherlands.
similarly if it's in my country if you spot anything I can help you.

regards
swami nair


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## Martijn (Aug 5, 2022)

Hi, i only know that most european countries have laws to recycle e-waste by certified companies. 
As a hobbyist I don't deal with them, I get a couple of pcb's and other e-waste for free from friends and fam every now and then. 

The base metals go to my local scrapyard.

I have collected industrial stuff from previous work sites. 

But the registration numbers will still mostly be required for trade in the netherlands.


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## Martijn (Aug 5, 2022)

The netherlands are also a tax haven for 'postbox' companies. They are not based here, but trade through here to avoid taxes. 
They only have a registration here. 
I could check some for you. When/if i have the time. 
How far are you with a processing plant and experience?


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## swaminair (Aug 5, 2022)

Martijn said:


> The netherlands are also a tax haven for 'postbox' companies. They are not based here, but trade through here to avoid taxes.
> They only have a registration here.
> I could check some for you. When/if i have the time.
> How far are you with a processing plant and experience?


Thank you mate .I was curious that you were a citizen of Netherlands henceforth I made a request,no processing plant mate just AR ,UREA,SMB only acid synthesis method, smelting makes too much smoke and risky for neighbours. so just I wish to pursue only about 100 gms of AU to solve a debt,

still not my profession, but will induct into this profession,as I can get Ram around but at high rates at 35 usd per two pounds assuming current rates.

sure thanking you for the kind words but every one has a life so if you really feel free and have time drop me a word I will send you the links,but is their a personal message option here? Due to nuance I am unable to locate one.

regards
swami nair


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 5, 2022)

swaminair said:


> Thank you mate .I was curious that you were a citizen of Netherlands henceforth I made a request,no processing plant mate just AR ,UREA,SMB only acid synthesis method, smelting makes too much smoke and risky for neighbours. so just I wish to pursue only about 100 gms of AU to solve a debt,
> 
> still not my profession, but will induct into this profession,as I can get Ram around but at high rates at 35 usd per two pounds assuming current rates.
> 
> ...


Drop the Urea in your garden and use Sulfamic acid in stead.
By the way I hope you are not planning to refine in a populated are without fume scrubbing.
Less fumes/smoke in acids but they are corrosive and toxic.

Another thing, do not put the ram sticks in AR, use Copper Chloride etch called AP.
When you dissolve the Gold foils left you can do it without any Nitric.
HCl/Peroxide or HCl/Bleach will do the job.
No need for denoxing after.

But as said before most of the gold are in the chips, and they need incinerating.
If you pyrolize first it will be as good as smokeless.


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## swaminair (Aug 5, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> Drop the Urea in your garden and use Sulfamic acid in stead.
> By the way I hope you are not planning to refine in a populated are without fume scrubbing.
> Less fumes/smoke in acids but they are corrosive and toxic.
> 
> ...



Thank you mate ,by the way I got one more idea from youtube video which removes all chips and gold coating by Desoldering :  
sorry for not hyperlinking the above video by
Ruiz Jr, Ramon:
Ruiz Jr, Ramon
One part of ram is okay,simply pulling out ic chips, next is your method, I thought of AR but you make the best move "
AP which is HCL and hydrogen peroxide combo " okay getting through it, refining goes neat.
pyrolize hmm okay mate with this idea fume hood is necessary.can build a small one with simple non toxic substances.
One doubt mate :After removing the foils do we need to smelt the ram finger/cut desoldered pieces after AP bath,//// or do we need to put them into AR ..and then smb .is this okay to make the pure out of it. smelting for gold directly or for purity AR and then smb.which is your best option/suggestion mate?

regards
swami nair


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 5, 2022)

Pyrolizing done right will produce no to little smoke, you recycle the gases back into the flames. When no more combustible gases come out, one opens the container and let it be kept red glowing in air until completely white from ash. There are plenty drawings and info on the forum.

AP is made from HCl and corroded copper or HCl and a drop or two Hydrogenperoxide.


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## Martijn (Aug 5, 2022)

swaminair said:


> is their a personal message option here?


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## Alondro (Aug 5, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> Drop the Urea in your garden and use Sulfamic acid in stead.
> By the way I hope you are not planning to refine in a populated are without fume scrubbing.
> Less fumes/smoke in acids but they are corrosive and toxic.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'll always go with the HCl-bleach, myself. Bleach is so cheap when you buy store brands, even cheaper than peroxide. And it's more stable than peroxide, so it lasts longer in storage. The test drops I've gotten with it after boiling for a bit to blow off the excess chlorine (and concentrate the gold solution a bit more, since adding washes dilutes it) have been fantastic. 

I've got just over 5 grams of excellent-looking light-brown gold powder from 2 small runs of a little over a pound of high-grade bits each, and am now on to a larger batch of 5 lbs of gold fingers, high-grade pins, and GF watch band segments.


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## Alondro (Aug 5, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> Pyrolizing done right will produce no to little smoke, you recycle the gases back into the flames. When no more combustible gases come out, one opens the container and let it be kept red glowing in air until completely white from ash. There are plenty drawings and info on the forum.
> 
> AP is made from HCl and corroded copper or HCl and a drop or two Hydrogenperoxide.


I found a simple cost-free method of burning up to 5 pounds of chips over a simple wood fire, using a fine steel mesh with the chips laid out in a layer about 2 feet off the ground, held in place with stacked brick walls. Build your pile of slender pieces of dry wood underneath in a 'log cabin' campfire setup, then sprinkle either paraffin or other wax over the chips, OR frying oil that's been used at least 3 times. Then light it up! The chips burn at an intensely high heat that the plastics practically vaporize into bright flame. The whole thing burns pretty thoroughly in a mere 15-20 minutes (sometimes the chips on the edges of the screen don't, and might need more wax or oil). Crush down the embers so you can slip a thin sheet of scrap steel (easily obtained from a trashed fridge, washing machine, etc) underneath the screen to catch anything that falls through as it cools, the chips burn so completely once you get the nuances of the burn just right, that they will fall apart at the slightest touch.

If you do a lot of chips, you can prop up the steel mesh with a few lengths of rebar to keep the mesh from sagging as it gets orange-yellow hot in the middle. The rebar won't get in the way of the flame.

Paraffin is best, as there's no smoke at all when the fire gets going. Used fry oil will make some smoke, but not too much when you get the fire lay built right. I've gotten wood fires with this setup up to a bit beyond copper's melting point with nothing more than the correct wood arrangement and airflow. You don't want it THAT hot for this purpose, but know that it's achievable!

In my first brick wood-fired kiln decades ago, I managed to melt low-grade steel pipe used for playground equipment back in those days. That rather came as a shock, since I had planned to use it as a tall crucible for melting aluminum. Found a cast-iron pipe and used that instead!


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## swaminair (Aug 5, 2022)

Alondro said:


> Yeah, I'll always go with the HCl-bleach, myself. Bleach is so cheap when you buy store brands, even cheaper than peroxide. And it's more stable than peroxide, so it lasts longer in storage. The test drops I've gotten with it after boiling for a bit to blow off the excess chlorine (and concentrate the gold solution a bit more, since adding washes dilutes it) have been fantastic.
> 
> I've got just over 5 grams of excellent-looking light-brown gold powder from 2 small runs of a little over a pound of high-grade bits each, and am now on to a larger batch of 5 lbs of gold fingers, high-grade pins, and GF watch band segments.
> 
> View attachment 51599


Good luck for your hardship get a pile of gold,wish you a good yield.
Thanks for refining ideas.


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## swaminair (Aug 5, 2022)

Alondro said:


> I found a simple cost-free method of burning up to 5 pounds of chips over a simple wood fire, using a fine steel mesh with the chips laid out in a layer about 2 feet off the ground, held in place with stacked brick walls. Build your pile of slender pieces of dry wood underneath in a 'log cabin' campfire setup, then sprinkle either paraffin or other wax over the chips, OR frying oil that's been used at least 3 times. Then light it up! The chips burn at an intensely high heat that the plastics practically vaporize into bright flame. The whole thing burns pretty thoroughly in a mere 15-20 minutes (sometimes the chips on the edges of the screen don't, and might need more wax or oil). Crush down the embers so you can slip a thin sheet of scrap steel (easily obtained from a trashed fridge, washing machine, etc) underneath the screen to catch anything that falls through as it cools, the chips burn so completely once you get the nuances of the burn just right, that they will fall apart at the slightest touch.
> 
> If you do a lot of chips, you can prop up the steel mesh with a few lengths of rebar to keep the mesh from sagging as it gets orange-yellow hot in the middle. The rebar won't get in the way of the flame.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the idea,This idea is good but hard to build in a living area. small but will try as no fumes then why not work on it. paraffin is of moderate price and we can get it back too,there is one wax for gold manufacturing units which are far cheaper than paraffin.goldsmiths use that from retail stores, usually sold by utensil sellers like Eversilver sellers.
This method used in a mud pot named pulverization is used for medicines in traditional preparations.you revoked many old memories about the stuff thank you mate.

_*THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL FORUM OF GOOD MEMBERS. THANKS A LOT.*_


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## swaminair (Aug 5, 2022)

Martijn said:


> View attachment 51598


Thank you mate,I thought inbox sort of thing here. okay for sure I will use it again thank you for sparing your precious time.


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 5, 2022)

swaminair said:


> Thanks for the idea,This idea is good but hard to build in a living area. small but will try as no fumes then why not work on it. paraffin is of moderate price and we can get it back too,there is one wax for gold manufacturing units which are far cheaper than paraffin.goldsmiths use that from retail stores, usually sold by utensil sellers like Eversilver sellers.
> This method used in a mud pot named pulverization is used for medicines in traditional preparations.you revoked many old memories about the stuff thank you mate.
> 
> _*THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL FORUM OF GOOD MEMBERS. THANKS A LOT.*_


You can not refine anything inside a house where people live, unless you have a proper fume hood.
Even then it should not be done.
The fumes will corrode any and all metal objects and some fumes are toxic and may accumulate in the body of living beings over time.
If this is your situation you should seriously reconsider your plan.


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 5, 2022)

Alondro said:


> I found a simple cost-free method of burning up to 5 pounds of chips over a simple wood fire, using a fine steel mesh with the chips laid out in a layer about 2 feet off the ground, held in place with stacked brick walls. Build your pile of slender pieces of dry wood underneath in a 'log cabin' campfire setup, then sprinkle either paraffin or other wax over the chips, OR frying oil that's been used at least 3 times. Then light it up! The chips burn at an intensely high heat that the plastics practically vaporize into bright flame. The whole thing burns pretty thoroughly in a mere 15-20 minutes (sometimes the chips on the edges of the screen don't, and might need more wax or oil). Crush down the embers so you can slip a thin sheet of scrap steel (easily obtained from a trashed fridge, washing machine, etc) underneath the screen to catch anything that falls through as it cools, the chips burn so completely once you get the nuances of the burn just right, that they will fall apart at the slightest touch.
> 
> If you do a lot of chips, you can prop up the steel mesh with a few lengths of rebar to keep the mesh from sagging as it gets orange-yellow hot in the middle. The rebar won't get in the way of the flame.
> 
> ...


Alondro
This is not pyrolizing, it is incinerating and has the drawback that it will not fully burn many of the toxic fumes that come off the epoxies from the chips.
When pyrolizing one should bubble the off gases through a water trap to remove toxic non burning substances before the gases gos to after burning in the primary fire.


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## Alondro (Aug 5, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> Alondro
> This is not pyrolizing, it is incinerating and has the drawback that it will not fully burn many of the toxic fumes that come off the epoxies from the chips.
> When pyrolizing one should bubble the off gases through a water trap to remove toxic non burning substances before the gases gos to after burning in the primary fire.


It's not really an issue when outside. The HCN released by some of the epoxy autoignites at 1000F, and the heat of this fire exceeds that by several hundred degrees, thus it is destroyed. The other commonly released gasses are HCl and HBr, but these are only dangerous in an enclosed space or if you're basically over the fire breathing in the hot rising gases... which is a bad thing to do with any fire. 

If one is processing LARGE amounts of chips, say more than 10 pounds at a time, my method isn't practical, since the area of steel screen needed to spread them out into a single layer would be quite large. And it would require quite a large bonfire. Basically, it needs a square foot of screen per pound of chips. 10 pounds would be 10 square feet. That's already a little over 3 x 3 feet.

This method works for small amounts of chips in a rural area.

I wouldn't do any high-heat techniques in an enclosed space, other than a proper laboratory or chemical plant. Simply too risky. Vents can break down if not constructed of the right chemical-resistant materials.

And to do all that means a lot of investment, meaning it's only practical when one is performing at least small-industry level refining.


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 5, 2022)

Alondro said:


> It's not really an issue when outside. The HCN released by some of the epoxy autoignites at 1000F, and the heat of this fire exceeds that by several hundred degrees, thus it is destroyed. The other commonly released gasses are HCl and HBr, but these are only dangerous in an enclosed space or if you're basically over the fire breathing in the hot rising gases... which is a bad thing to do with any fire.
> 
> If one is processing LARGE amounts of chips, say more than 10 pounds at a time, my method isn't practical, since the area of steel screen needed to spread them out into a single layer would be quite large. And it would require quite a large bonfire. Basically, it needs a square foot of screen per pound of chips. 10 pounds would be 10 square feet. That's already a little over 3 x 3 feet.
> 
> ...


Without knowing for sure I suspect it may be inside a building or in a closed backyard.
There are some really simple devices in here comprised of tin cans on wood fire or barbecue coals.


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## Alondro (Aug 6, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> Without knowing for sure I suspect it may be inside a building or in a closed backyard.
> There are some really simple devices in here comprised of tin cans on wood fire or barbecue coals.


Heh, I build my first wood-fired kiln when I was 13. It lasted 20 years and created nearly 150lbs of aluminum ingots, back when that was my primary metal of interest, since I could get a lot of scrap with little effort. I'm going to be remaking that design this time too, with some modifications that should allow it to reach about 2100F steadily. 

I found a HUGE cast iron pipe, 1/8th inch walls, that I can cut into at least 10 crucibles/smelting chambers. The only costs there will be firebrick for lining the interior and some refractory cement to plug the bottom of the pipe sections. I found a furnace/kiln supply store that carries everything. Just waiting for it to stop being nearly 100F and as humid as a sauna here every day to start building.

That setup will be perfect for processing my base metals, and I can save my gas setup and costly crucibles for the PMs.


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## swaminair (Aug 6, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> You can not refine anything inside a house where people live, unless you have a proper fume hood.
> Even then it should not be done.
> The fumes will corrode any and all metal objects and some fumes are toxic and may accumulate in the body of living beings over time.
> If this is your situation you should seriously reconsider your plan.


sorry mate I forgot to mention I have a good terrace and a backyard with enough space for a fume hood with trees around. so happy can get through fume hood for IC's.High airflow and ventilation are available for the process, and being too small I can't make more than 10 lb max,with this I think of grinding the peeled out IC's.
regards
swami nair


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## swaminair (Aug 6, 2022)

Alondro said:


> Yeah, I'll always go with the HCl-bleach, myself. Bleach is so cheap when you buy store brands, even cheaper than peroxide. And it's more stable than peroxide, so it lasts longer in storage. The test drops I've gotten with it after boiling for a bit to blow off the excess chlorine (and concentrate the gold solution a bit more, since adding washes dilutes it) have been fantastic.
> 
> I've got just over 5 grams of excellent-looking light-brown gold powder from 2 small runs of a little over a pound of high-grade bits each, and am now on to a larger batch of 5 lbs of gold fingers, high-grade pins, and GF watch band segments.
> 
> View attachment 51599


mate thanks for the info between what brands of Ram were they "high brand bits" what ram were they: I am trying out to purchase ddr ddr2 and ddr3 rams with high priority.
As you have got an yield of 5 grams on 1 lb or 1/2 kilogram. I wish to know more about the ram models so that I can purchase them out instead of chasing some odds for nothing.

Help me out by just quoting the ram models of ddr or did you purchase SD /RD rams.when the sellers demand high cost for ddr ddr2 and ddr3 double sided chips and fingers they cost around 40-45 usd per kilogram which is higher to gold rate today which is 60% of the gold price.so I am cautious in purchasing them.
so I need your support in this issue about rams you purchased so I can be aware of what to purchase on rams?

Thank you in Advance.
Forgot to mention your method of extraction too, I planned AR first , now with yggdrasil AP,can you specify the full method including pure gold extract.
Friends I will gift all who had helped the process after clearing my debts.


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 6, 2022)

swaminair said:


> mate thanks for the info between what brands of Ram were they "high brand bits" what ram were they: I am trying out to purchase ddr ddr2 and ddr3 rams with high priority.
> As you have got an yield of 5 grams on 1 lb or 1/2 kilogram. I wish to know more about the ram models so that I can purchase them out instead of chasing some odds for nothing.
> 
> Help me out by just quoting the ram models of ddr or did you purchase SD /RD rams.when the sellers demand high cost for ddr ddr2 and ddr3 double sided chips and fingers they cost around 40-45 usd per kilogram which is higher to gold rate today which is 60% of the gold price.so I am cautious in purchasing them.
> ...


Bleach may or may not hold longer in cold areas, I have no numbers for that but it will decompose faster in solution.

Bleach does two things, increase the pH and release Chlorine (the business end of this process) the biggest issue is that Cl- have a very short lifespan in solutions before it gas off as Cl2.
You need to watch out for the pH and also make sure you feed it enough to keep up the Cl- to do the job.

This is why I prefer HydrogenPeroxide if I can choose.

One can use pool chlorine tablets, but they come with their own challenges.

Edit for spelling


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## swaminair (Aug 7, 2022)

Yggdrasil said:


> Bleach may or may not hold longer in cold areas, I have no numbers for that but it will decompose faster in solution.
> 
> Bleach does two things, increase the pH and release Chlorine (the business end of this process) the biggest issue is that Cl- have a very short lifespan in solutions before it gas off as Cl2.
> You need to watch out for the pH and also make sure you feed it enough to keep up the Cl- to do the job.
> ...


Thank you mate.Getting a HCL based bleach is easy.will try it out. waiting for Alondro's ram tips to boost up the buy of ram sticks. Able to get ddr2 and ddr3 but not sure what models to purchase some researches show Dimm shows better gold, some says ddr with simm is better with gold. confused hence waiting for Alondro.
The rams cost higher to around $45 a kilogram.Hence being at risk on spending waiting .


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## Yggdrasil (Aug 7, 2022)

swaminair said:


> Thank you mate.Getting a HCL based bleach is easy.will try it out. waiting for Alondro's ram tips to boost up the buy of ram sticks. Able to get ddr2 and ddr3 but not sure what models to purchase some researches show Dimm shows better gold, some says ddr with simm is better with gold. confused hence waiting for Alondro.
> The rams cost higher to around $45 a kilogram.Hence being at risk on spending waiting .


The older the better, usually regarding electronics.
Not sure if that goes for Ram to.


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## swaminair (Aug 7, 2022)

yes for that I tried SD RD rams earlier with the vendors but hard to find them, only ddr2 and 3 are available ,hence I am suspicious of the output as the cost is higher or least 50=55% of the gold rate.
Trying to get off this mess from members help.If any one shares about Ram as I had watched out with few youtube videos of sreetips,but not sure of the ram variety.Alondro seems to pull something better hence I made that request to him.
sure surfing around the world for the oldest But I am too late in refining hence the problem.


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## Alondro (Aug 7, 2022)

swaminair said:


> mate thanks for the info between what brands of Ram were they "high brand bits" what ram were they: I am trying out to purchase ddr ddr2 and ddr3 rams with high priority.
> As you have got an yield of 5 grams on 1 lb or 1/2 kilogram. I wish to know more about the ram models so that I can purchase them out instead of chasing some odds for nothing.
> 
> Help me out by just quoting the ram models of ddr or did you purchase SD /RD rams.when the sellers demand high cost for ddr ddr2 and ddr3 double sided chips and fingers they cost around 40-45 usd per kilogram which is higher to gold rate today which is 60% of the gold price.so I am cautious in purchasing them.
> ...


It was all mixed up fingers from all sorts of RAM and industrial boards. I don't get enough of one type to bother sorting it. I just trim the fingers off of everything until I half-fill a large beaker.

I will say that the RAM mostly looked old, with large chips. And the industrial boards were a mix of telecom and heavy industry with thick rows of fingers. 

The pins I had in that batch were partly military grade from some... ahem... 1970's nuclear launch control boards... It was actually available in a military surplus lot. Those boards have gold-plated everything, as well as what look to be large early-type MLCCs the size of a postage stamp. I'm nervous to test them, because if they are MLCCs, the yield of palladium from them will be massive. They have huge, thick electrodes. But if they're some type of resistor, might have nothing. I can't tell because almost nothing on those boards looked even remotely like consumer electronics parts. I still can't identify many of them. 

I'm saving all my lower-grade pins and gold-plated fingers and boards with small gold-plated contact points for later, when I've finished depopulating my entire current stockpile of circuit boards.


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## swaminair (Aug 8, 2022)

Alondro said:


> It was all mixed up fingers from all sorts of RAM and industrial boards. I don't get enough of one type to bother sorting it. I just trim the fingers off of everything until I half-fill a large beaker.
> 
> I will say that the RAM mostly looked old, with large chips. And the industrial boards were a mix of telecom and heavy industry with thick rows of fingers.
> 
> ...


Thank you for sharing mate.I am getting only ddr2 and ddr3 rams at higher prices as mentioned as ram scrap is now targeted than processors.They say per kg almost 2 pounds/lb and a bit more costs around 45$ in my zone and are scarce.
so while investing this much I spend almost a gram of gold with so I am worried about purchasing them.
Hence I sought help.
Regarding yours you got a original stick I think so which should be RD which have good stock pile of gold.


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