# 1/20 10k gold filled watch bands



## 61 silverman

Here's my question I just recieved a parcel of watch bands from a seller, The total lot consists off about 1 1/2 lbs. of 1/20 10k gold filled "stamped on piece's ,3 lbs. of unmarked gold plated watch bands, the rest is just stainless.. Here is the dirty of my question on the stamped bands it states "1/20 10k GOLD FILLED TOPS==Last week I had read a reply from I believe "Lazersteve" the reply had a gold value equasion for calculating gold ammount in gold filled EYE GLASS FRAMES,,the bottom line was gold value of 1/20 10k is 5%wt. That is if I haven't lost my memory today,, back too my senario I have been removing all of the "TOPS" keeping them together. My question is will the same equasion of 5%wt. return hold true,on these watch band tops as it does with EYE GLASSES???? , I may have questions'??I have a gold plate recovery cell "instructions off EBAY" this was before I found this web site I have actually gotten a small amount of gold from some garage sale items "small success leads too desire for improvement"THANK GOD YOU'RE HERE,I have loved precious metals for more than twenty years,, I have built .999fine silver art work(lost wax process) average size of 1000ozt. for around 2o years in a foundry in OREGON.most impressive ** 1= 1500ozt 24k GOLD MICKEY MOUSE **I HAVE PICS .I'll try to put them on if I can figure it out.


----------



## lazersteve

Welcome to the forum Silverman,

The gold filled equation holds true for gold filled items as follows:

gold filled factor x karat factor x 100 = percent of weight that is 24 kt gold.

Using real numbers for 1/20 10 kt watches we have:

1/20 x 10 kt x 100 =

1/20 x 10/24 x 100 = 

0.05 x 0.417 x 100 = 

0.021 x 100 = 2.1 % gold

If the item were 1/10 12 kt gold filled glasses the numbers would be :

1/10 x 12/24 x 100 =

0.1 x 0.5 x 100 = 5% gold

To figure the final weight of 24 kt gold expected from the gold filled scrap multiply the above percentage times the weight in grams of the gold filled portion of the scrap.

If you strip down the watches removing all the stainless steel, mechanisms, and glass then you end up with 100 grams of gold filled scrap. You could expect a yield of 100 x 2.1 % = 2.1 grams from the gold filled portion of the watches. 

In the example of the glasses you would 5 grams of 24kt from 100 grams of frames.

I hope this answers your question.

Steve


----------



## Harold_V

While Steve's information is correct, what no one is telling you is that gold filled items lose value quickly, particularly items like watch bands. The gold is only on the surface, and it's the surface that wears away, so the loss is entirely on the portion that has value. That's not to say that watch bands aren't a decent source of gold----almost anything that has gold included in its construction is------but don't look at it as still having the amount of gold present when the item was made. Same goes for watch cases. It's not unusual to find them completely worn through the gold and down to the base metal. 

Harold


----------



## 61 silverman

Thank you Guys for the figures, this brings up another question,? When looking to reverse plate off - metal gold plated items that are not stamped or labeled what is the normal for the quality of !, or if it is at all ? gold, I have a reverse plating system using sulphuric acid.


By the way how did the comment at the bottom of my post appear,It sounded a bit egotistical,, I did not put it there!!!
altho maybe true...


----------



## jimdoc

Wasn't that Mickey Mouse on Ebay before?
I seem to remember seeing it before.


----------



## 61 silverman

I believe you're correct , I heard rumers around the offfice that the owners had it up for some auction, at the time I wasn't in the world of the web and never heard where the auction was, I did hear that they did not sell it at that time the reserve price was not met!!

MARK


----------



## jimdoc

Mark,
Here is a link to it;
http://collectibles.about.com/library/articles/blprmickey82401.htm
I thought I remembered it being in the Million $ price range.
Jim


----------



## 61 silverman

thanks for the link JIM I never saw that article before , I was sure it was heavier than stated , But apparentlly my memory has slipped a bit..!!!?? :? :shock: .It was still an awsome experience..

MARK


----------



## Noxx

Nice Mickey 

I would gladly take it


----------



## goldsilverpro

Very impressive, Mark!

I noticed that the About article was written in 2001. In 2001, the highest spot gold price was about $290. At that price, 2200 ozs of gold would "only" be valued at $638,000 (today, it would be over $1.5 million). At 1500 ozs., the intrinsic value would be $435,000. In the 2001 article, it mentioned a value of over $1 million. If Disney set the reserve at around $1 million, I can understand why it didn't sell. Ebayers are very good with calculators and they don't like paying that much (or, any) of a premium. Although the piece certainly deserved a premium, it sounds like Disney got a little too greedy.


----------



## Anonymous

Love to run across him at a yard sale.

With a sticker saying 50 cents!!! :shock: 

Stuff like that does happen.  

Just not to me.


----------



## Noxx

lol Dgold.

Where there is money there is me. Where there is me, money flees !


----------



## 61 silverman

I'm happy too share my expierience with every body here,

MARK


----------



## mike.fortin

Mark--is that pictur you holding that mouse above? Was you polishing it in that pictur? Nice job. Mike.


----------



## 61 silverman

MIKE, thanks for looking at the largest 24kt gold casting produced in the united states, according to the link above,,!!?? At that point of the build process I was actuall WELDING the ears onto the head, Yes welding!! in a lost wax casting the sculpture is --hollow--approximately 1/8 too 1/4+ inches thick. there are what are refered too as windows cut out of the WAX pattern prior too the slurry investment (like a ceramic -- mold applied in liquid layers with a sand inbetween layers )These windows have too be replaced, asto not be able too see where... Thats the hard part!!
I have a few more pictures I may post in the near future,keep ya coming back Thank's 
MARK


----------



## mike.fortin

61 silverman said:


> MIKE, thanks for looking at the largest 24kt gold casting produced in the united states, according to the link above,,!!?? At that point of the build process I was actuall WELDING the ears onto the head, Yes welding!! in a lost wax casting the sculpture is --hollow--approximately 1/8 too 1/4+ inches thick. there are what are refered too as windows cut out of the WAX pattern prior too the slurry investment (like a ceramic -- mold applied in liquid layers with a sand inbetween layers )These windows have too be replaced, asto not be able too see where... Thats the hard part!!
> I have a few more pictures I may post in the near future,keep ya coming back Thank's
> MARK



Mark--Did you make your own gold sodder? What clean up reqirements did you have to meet? Was Disney securty on hand all time? Mike.


----------



## 61 silverman

All of the assembly on the mickey was done with a TIG welder using 24k 1/8" wire. DISNEY security was not on site, Our own security procedures,along with having a very good reputation, dealing with PMG's primarily .999fine silver.: Along with a limited acess HIGH SECURITY area of the foundry, All was dealt with; with the highest of confidence,along with strict inventory daily...
Take a look at the picture that i just added here, At that moment I was welding the Right Ear onto MICKEY'S head,, You can see the wire in my left hand it is approx. 1/8" diamiter 24K... 
NO WONDER I LOVE THIS SITE............GOLD IS LIFE!!!


----------



## mike.fortin

61--how did you prevent firescale on MM when you were welding the plates together? Mike.


----------



## Harold_V

mike.fortin said:


> 61--how did you prevent firescale on MM when you were welding the plates together? Mike.



Assuming MM was, truly, 24 K, there should be no fire scale. That's caused by oxidation of base metals. Remember------pure gold does not oxidize. 

Harold


----------



## 61 silverman

:wink: Harold is correct ,, as mickey is 24K. pure cast from mostly 100ozt ingots, melting was in an induction furnace with a new crucible-graphite composition, open air gravity feed, with the lost wax patterrn of this size gravity pour is quite effective.. As with the welding TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding provides a-- oxygen free enviroment-- around the weld area using a argon gas as a shield against oxygen, the fill material( wire use for welding) being also 24K, NO IMPURITIES ever are present,,


----------



## aflacglobal

Mark, have you done other items of this type of art? That is just cool as shit. I can't paint by numbers myself. :shock: 

My hats off to you.


----------



## 61 silverman

8) I have worked in the Art Foundry buisness for 22 years, When I first started all of the art work was BRONZE, Anything and every thing from abstract- to western - to and thru real life; all of these diferent pieces could range in size from inches tall too 3o+ feet.. About 18 years ago the request to produce .999 fine silver castings, after months of trial and error and bugging anybody we could think of for info about the caracteristics of working with fine silver,We finally came up with a process of casting .999 fine silver producing at the largest a life size ballet dancer,balanced too spin at the ball of her right foot, using a SS 2" solid bar for spin apperature. Above that ( in my oppinion ) is a series of REMINGTON sculptures AUTHORIZED by the remington museum in new york. each of these , over 300 of them each quaranteed too weigh 1000+ ozt. .999 fine silver,Each of the different sculptures were limited edition of 100 each with 5 museum proof's also if you have heard of these maybe, THE BRONCHO BUSTER, THE RATTLESNAKE, THE MOUNTAINMAN, CHEYANNE,, another fun project was a MOUNT RUSHMORE piece that was also a production of 100 pieces, after 22 years unfortunately I could go on about my work for hours, another example attached I am on the leftP.S. thank you very much for appreciating my work !! :lol:


----------



## mike.fortin

61--i guess I done used the wrong word when said firescale. The first mm picure you put up here i was looking at what seems to be orange bands where you hooked the ear togethr on bothsides of the seamweld. Can you see what im talking about and tell me if it is just the pix? that is why I said firescale. The new picure is very cool. Mike.


----------



## aflacglobal

Now that is old school real craftsmanship. Did you have a mentor to learn from. I take it their ain't a school for this type of work. :?:


----------



## 61 silverman

Mike I believe the area that you are refering too is about 3/4" outside the weld area,this is where the argon gas shield gets compromised by our atmosphere, note that the area of weld that is molten at any given time is anly about the size of a pencil eraser, 1/4" or so, solidifing instantly as the concentrated arch from the tig welding is moved along too where weld is needed,..always remaining within the protection of the argon shield gas.. as you can see in the finished product..  
MARK


----------



## 61 silverman

aflacglobal said:


> Now that is old school real craftsmanship. Did you have a mentor to learn from. I take it their ain't a school for this type of work. :?:


 :wink: 
AFLAC well in part you are correct, many to almost all colleges offer art classes that range in many areas , SCULPTURE is where the most equitable knowledge and a bit of hands on expierence could be obtained..There has been ,over the years, too many people that have came thru the foundry doors, some of them had degrees in art, couldn't tell by some. There is allways somebody that is allready doing what you are starting to do, In that I guess I had a mentor at least one, there are a few people that stick out in my momories, Be it a quote or a how-too,We can allways learn from the expierience of others,,, NOTE, why I'm here!!!!It was almost inevitable that my career would involve the arts is some manner,My mother has been teaching ceramics since I was 3 years old, I kind of grew up around forms of art.. :wink: MARK


----------



## goldsilverpro

I have a jeweler friend, in Houston, that makes great jewelry from pure precious metals - wire, sheet, etc. - gold, silver, platinum but, mainly gold. Heavy, heavy jewelry - mainly bracelets. He is part Mexican and his beautiful stuff relates this. Sort of an Aztec feel to it. He got so much business in 2 months that he quit making it - took too much time away from his bread and butter - gold trading. He tried to hire and train several jewelers but, he wanted each piece to be unique and they could never duplicate his thinking when he made the pieces ad lib.

He torch welded the pure gold to pure gold with just a slight scrubbing action. No flux, solder, or oxides present - just gold on gold.. The metal just immediately flowed together. He could easily form it at will.


----------



## aflacglobal

Hey, I like the Mickey Mouse Guy. 

Passion, understanding, and respect for ones work as well as the work of others. The desires to understand and to experience, learn, and grow from those wants, needs, and desires. The true understanding of ones visions, hopes, and dreams.


----------



## 61 silverman

Hi, G-S-PRO , I to truly admire the skills of the jeweler; especially the hand crafted HIGH Quality, this is a true talent!! :shock: as far as relaying his feeling too trainies I understand what he means.. :x At one time I was making a few rings from twisting 1/16th " .999 fine silver wire two strands, I was sucessful about 70 % of the time :wink: of getting a weld over a few inches at a time using a med. turbo tourch,propane gas.. This was just for fun and a few gifts, I didn't persue more jewelry size items..


Thank's for the support there aflac.. 8)


----------



## 61 silverman

Hello I hope somebody that had read this post, reads this one as well, It's been a little more than a YEAR since the last post ..I have bought HOKE'S BOOK and read much of it and learned a bit from it.. following the directions in THE BOOK, I have finally carried the outlined process for this type of material.. I hope my pics will load now...I started with 1.5 ozs as a test..I have not weighed the results, But it looks like a good little amount , I stripped all of the TOP CAPS off of the watch bands..and heated too RED prior too acid treatment's...


----------



## Lou

While you're here, I should say--really impressive work. I can't even begin to describe how I envy you. Don't get me wrong, I like what I do, but what you do daily, I would give much to do even just once.

You're privileged. God bless.


----------



## 61 silverman

LOU
Thank You for that**  (EGO BOOST) **
Back too the foils of 10k that are left after the acid treatment's.
HOKE says too treat these lkike I would any other Karat GOLD material meaning AR.. Before I do this I have 8+ more ozs. too get too this stage than it will be a measurable / worthwhile amount.. I should get in the area of 5-6 grams all said and done (24k)..

Here is another Pic for you too enjoy...
MARK


----------



## 61 silverman

The previous pic is of a Male's Hand -forearm on the inside,,There is a females hand also,I am welding seams inside of the casting..These two standing together touching in a couple of places (fingers to fingers) Are a full 20 feet tall... Close too 1 of the largest single pieces of art that I have had a hand in building...almost 5 tons of BRONZEE in both pieces total..
This Pic is of the hand with the forearm attached ,,looking at it laying down..
MARK


----------



## 61 silverman

Hi ALL, Here is a picture of what is remaining after 100grams of 1/20 10kt gold filled all watch bands and a couple of Bezels and Backs.. All of the TOP CAPS which is where the gold filled is was seperated from the rest of the bands.. Heated with a torch until RED, during this process all of the solder used in holding the base metal to the karat gold layer melts, You can see some of the gold layer float around on top, anyway 1st treatment with full strength HCL.,( HEAT TO LOW BOIL ) Just enough too cover material, HCL turns light green with a yellow tone, ?? this color looks enough like gold disolved in solution I tested it a couple of times, came up negative..A second treatment of (* Hot *HCL ) Much of the TIN and LEAD will be dilolved and removed by pouring off the used HCL carefully ALL of the material except what has disolved needs too stay in the main container,. This now MUST be rinsed completly of ALL HCL.. If any remains a solution of AR would be made in the next step..THE MATERIAL IS NOT READY YET.. There is more base metals to remove.. Now that all is clean and NEUTRAL PH Now NITRIC ACID 50/50 H2O again this will be heated to LESS THAN BOILING TO START,, using small amounts at a time not to over-react.. continue until everything looks clean, pouring the USED ACID off to another container, probably a couple of times before all is said and done..On the LAST round of NITRIC -ADD A small amount of full strength SULFERIC ACID to the NITRIC now boil at a low boil, The foils started looking ,cleaner -brighter and collecting together in the boil ( kind of like clean attracted clean,) Note the only materoal AIMED AT to disolve has been BASE METALS ONLY, Here is a picture of the foils I collected from this my second batch.. Mark


----------



## 61 silverman

O.K. I have too tell of the mistake that I made while I was treating this material,, All of my heating is being done in a sand bath ( simple sand box sand in a pie tin,) It works good at distributing the heat evenly,, The one problem is that if there is any moisture on the outside of the glass ware the sand sticks to it until all is comfort warm,, Well I wiped off the outside of a different container near the OPEN TOP of the one holding this material,, I ended up with about 1/2 teaspoon of PLAY SAND in with my foils,, NOW WHAT,,??!! Well I carefully picked out all of the foils that you can see in the picture,, I used HCL/CL on what was left in the bottom of the container... Here is a test swab..


----------



## 61 silverman

This is what I got from the sand mix 0.68gram


----------



## lazersteve

Mark,

Great job on the Gold Filled Scrap!

Steve


----------



## Harold_V

lazersteve said:


> Mark,
> 
> Great job on the Gold Filled Scrap!
> 
> Steve


Indeed!

Next time you have a mishap with sand, just ignore it. Process the material as if it wasn't there. It will be removed in final filtration with no ill effects. There were a few times I processed sufides that ended up nothing more than values and finely crushed rock. Carpets ended up that way, too. No big deal at all!

Harold


----------



## 61 silverman

thank's guys , I really thought that the sand wouldmt be to much trouble, however I was really trying to get an accurate number that I could post.. Because there is one question ( of many ) that I'm a little confused about, When the calculation is done <reducing> Is the starting weight ONLY THE TOP CAPS == or == THE WHOLE WATCH BAND... It's kind of a no brainer on charms and pendants or chains , But what about the watch bands that have the obvious springs hinged joints SS backs you get the idea I think.. This all boils down too WATCH BANDS.
I may of mentoioned that I have about 9 total OZ.s of only the parts thaat are filled none of the HARDWARE,, Is my total going too still be only 2.1%..I'm hoping that I will get A CONCIDERABLE AMOUNT MORE..
WHAT YA THINK ..?? Notice the last pic of the foils came from 100grams, and the recovered 0.68 grams "from the gravel" the container is a PYREX 1 Qt container,,


----------



## Harold_V

There is no question---the percentage of yield will be based on the gold filled material alone----and it won't be what is specified because wear has removed a percentage of the gold---often a large percentage. That's what's wrong with gold filled materials. All the wear occurs on the gold. 

There are types of bands that are almost all gold filled, as you likely know. the square telescopic (ladies) types tend to be, although the springs inside are stainless. 

I stripped watch bands (electrically) with cyanide. It was the only way I could justify handling them, but then I was very busy with other materials. That in no way implies that I think you shouldn't process them. Just don't expect to get rich! 

Harold


----------



## 61 silverman

Thank's Harold 
I just cant help myself but to hope for high numbers after stripping all the top caps, Very time consuming, I have one other Question while I have your invaluable attention,?? I have material that is not 1/20th or 1/10th but 10k - 12k - 14k gold filled, I understand the method of making the gold filled material according too what HOKE describes,, gold and base bonded with solder and thinned down I believe this all starts with the gold wieghing 1/20th or other of the base metal..(1/10th) .. Now with non/ fractioned gold filled is there another method of calculation for returns, ?? Thank's again 
Mark
P.s. Harold do you know about ,laser diodes --gold plating thickness --??


----------



## Harold_V

61 silverman said:


> Now with non/ fractioned gold filled is there another method of calculation for returns, ??


I know of no method. Watch cases often are gold filled, and warranted for a given period of time. That doesn't tell my much about the percentage, either, but I think it's fairly safe to assume that you aren't likely to recover any more than about 5% from gold filled objects, especially when you consider that the majority of them are subject to surface wear. 



> do you know about ,laser diodes --gold plating thickness --??


Sorry! Don't know a thing. I avoided plated things when I refined unless they were free, and even then I didn't spend much time on them. 

The one exception I might mention was some defense wave guide equipment, obviously WWII era, or thereabouts. I stripped some of that stuff for a guy and recovered over 2% gold. I never again saw anything that came even remotely close to that stuff. 

Harold


----------



## Platdigger

What was your "plan of atack" on that old millitary stuff Harold?
Randy


----------



## Harold_V

Platdigger said:


> What was your "plan of atack" on that old millitary stuff Harold?
> Randy


In the end, I didn't process all of it. I stripped with cyanide, electrically. The parts were made of brass, but had no nickel barrier beneath the gold, which turned out to be troublesome (and was likely the reason for such heavy gold plating). The test lot I ran stripped until the gold got perforated, then base metal started stripping instead of the gold. At this point in time I had no clue about buffering, nor did I have anyone to talk to about how to go about dealing with the problem of stripping as I was doing. 

Shortly thereafter I was introduced to a (sulfuric) stripping cell, and got one built, but the owner of the material had become tired of waiting and requested the return of the material. As a result, I never put the stripping cell to work. It was a large one, made of stainless, with a cooling jacket. I had a rectifier capable of delivering up to 300 amps, so I could have stripped many pounds of the material at one time, using the sulfuric process. I didn't weigh in the material, but it would be the equivalent of a couple average garbage cans full. 

All of this dates back to the mid 70's, so my memory isn't all that good now. The owner of the material ran an electronics surplus store, and had a keen interest in precious metals. I had refined for him on a few other occasions. He routinely made purchases through government auctions. 

By the way, I was flown to New Mexico by a guy in Idaho that wanted me to build a stripping cell for him. He had gained permission for us to tour the facility operated by the government that was stripping precious metals from surplus military equipment. It was there that I got the information on the operation of a stripping cell. 

Harold


----------



## Platdigger

Interesting.
Did your cell end up going with the buisness then?


----------



## Harold_V

Yes, it's long gone. I have a picture of it, but more by accident than anything. I noticed when I was looking through the scrap book my wife put together, looking for pictures of the filter press I built, there is one picture that shows part of the cell. If you're interested, I could copy and post the picture. 

GSP claims that iron (sheet steel) is best suited for a cell, although the one in question was fabricated from sheet stainless. May not have been the best choice, but I seem to recall that was what the government was using, albeit a round one instead of a rectangular one like the one I designed.

Harold


----------



## goldsilverpro

When I first started playing around with the sulfuric stripper, in about 1970, I used a 4 liter stainless beaker. I know these beakers are thin but, in just a few days, the solution ate a hole in it. I don't remember where the hole was. It was probably at the solution level where O2 from the air is present.

Since then, I have never used stainless. I used a 50 gal welded tank, made from mild steel sheet, for several years, with no problems. There was no visible attack, even at the solution level.

After working with this for many years, I found that nickel is slowly attacked by the solution. Another good reason for not using stainless. 

If too much nickel is dissolved, the solution reaction will slow down and can eventually stop working. I haven't experimented with this, but I've always thought that a small addition of potassium dichromate, an excellent passivating agent, would prevent the Ni from being attacked.

The solution I used was slightly different than what the forum is using so you may not have the same problems. The standard solution will not attack gold alloys except maybe Au/Ag. I discovered a couple of additives that would allow most any gold alloy, including karat gold, to break down. Otherwise, the solution was the same. I can't divulge my modification. Please don't ask. It was the basis of 2 very successful businesses and it's value is still as viable as it was back then, for several applications.


----------



## 61 silverman

Today I cemented silver out of nitric solution used in removing base metals from gold filled material..For the last few weeks I have been slowly attacking the mateial first with hot HCL four sepperat 100 ml amounts.. Troublesome to change solution, so many ultra light particles,after rinsing to neutral started with nitric again small amount incroments this time 50/50 mix H2o/ nitric 50ml batches.. Now this proved to be very educational,,after at least 2 hours letting the solution ( added in small amounts at a time, 2-5 ml, ) sit, not beeing pressed for time, then I would heat the solution until no more chemical reaction is able to be seen, let sit over night until the next morning, carefully exchange the solution siphoning as much as I can, trying not to disturb the very fine material that has been accumilating, test of the first batch, small sample disolved a pinch of salt in hot water, added a few drops a cloud appeared, did not settle but rose to the top, added a few drops of dilute sulpheric, cloud disappeared "TIN "in solution no silver,
continued with 3 more treatments of 50/50 H2o/nitric, no silver was noticed until the morning after the third treatment there was a heavy white precipatant in the bottom of the beaker, I was sure at seeing this, that's the silver I have been expecting to get disolved.. after getting the old out so the new could go in as I added the first of the new as expected the white precipitant started disolving with intent! 4 grams silver dried with a small amount still cementing out..Foils weigh just under 10 grams, I'll try to put up a couple pics tomorrow, haven't downlaoded them yet.. Mark


----------



## LaurenceOs

Laugh, if you will, at my utter newbynessbut..... What's gold filled? :S


----------



## qst42know

Here is a brief description.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_filled_jewelry


----------



## 61 silverman

Hi All, I have finally finished processing the material that this POST was started for...Yes it has been a long time .. However I have learned a great deal as well as recovered some nice looking Gold..The Total amount of precipitant I collected is 5.62 grams.. At one point I had disolved some material out of some sand that had gotten in with my foils...I had mentioned that in an earlier post..I started with 260 grams of material . I had seperated the " TOP CAPS " and any parts with gold from the other watch parts, mostly watch bands some cases just a few...I have a few pictures too share..View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1
When I inquarted this material I melted in Neycraft oven,Raised the temp. upto 1950F, I did not get a very good BEAD effect when I poured it into water, My container was MUCH to shallow, I new this !! so to prevent any loss due too metal -metal contact I cut a piece of plaster board to the shape of the bottom of my Pot..Held it down with a braced stick, it wanted too float.. I had too much flux in the crucible so when I poured into the water ( not swirling ) It went in with the melt..Too remove the flux I pounded the material in my manual crusher, all the flux powder up and screened away, I then proceeded with Dilute Nitric 50/50H2o.. I noticed self cemented silver in the bottom of my beaker after the first small treatment.. I use small amounts at a time to not waste acid..The picture titled very clean cement silver is from,after inquarting material with FINE Silver.


----------



## qst42know

I like the Toucan glass stir rod. :wink: :lol:


----------



## 61 silverman

61 silverman said:


> LOU
> Thank You for that**  (EGO BOOST) **
> Back too the foils of 10k that are left after the acid treatment's.
> HOKE says too treat these lkike I would any other Karat GOLD material meaning AR.. Before I do this I
> 
> 
> 
> have 8+ more ozs. too get too this stage than it will be a measurable / worthwhile amount.. I should get in the area of 5-6 grams all said and done (24k)..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another Pic for you too enjoy...
> 
> 
> I was just reading over the posts that had been made on this ,I noticed my early calculation pretty on spot.. MARK
Click to expand...


----------



## 61 silverman

qst42know, Thanks that is my first stir rod , Yard sale item,, I haven't broken it yet (knock on wood) 8)


----------



## 61 silverman

The Quote aboveof 5-6 gramsgold when done, originally posted 10 months ago.
View attachment 1
All that is left is to melt into a button..


----------



## 61 silverman

cement silver after inquart,,


----------



## Oz

That is nice clean cement silver with no visible traces of copper nitrate. Did you wash it in boiling water a couple of times? Beyond getting a more pure silver it desirable to wash it well before melting so you are not gassing off NO2 at the melt.


----------



## 61 silverman

Oz, Yes I washed the cement silver with very hot water, not quite boiling but very hot, after most all the silver was out of solution I removed the very clean then collected the rest which has a little darker tint to it.. the lower baggie is the rest after removing the clean, kept sepperate..


----------



## Palladium




----------



## Palladium

Happy Birthday Mickey !!!!

I mean Mark.


----------



## 61 silverman

Thank you Palladium , i looked at the bottom of the page and I am not there for B-DAY :roll:


----------



## Palladium

Look on your profile and see what birth date you have listed. I swear to god it was there yesterday before the days changed.


----------



## Palladium

10 years!
I wonder what ever happened to Mark?


----------



## jimdoc

Is this him?

https://www.prod.facebook.com/marcdellesculpture/


----------



## Palladium

I don't believe that's him, but dam that man is gifted!
I wished i had talent like that! Did you look at some of the pictures?


----------



## francisco rodriguez

Happy birthday Mark. 10 more years.


Paco.


----------

