# Sulfuric Cell - SS - Copper mesh or perforated plate



## necromancer (Mar 4, 2014)

as i read through the forum on Sulfuric Cell construction 

i am at odds of which is best for a simple Sulfuric Cell using a mesh basket or perforated plate

and as to the hole size of the mesh.

lasersteve has 50 mesh (copper) for sale i think that has been the standard mesh people use

there is also the stainless steel mesh i hear mentioned

i am planing on a water cooled Sulfuric Cell (cooled at 4oC)
will post full instructions with photos while building & testing (made from 90% recycled or reused materials)
and yes, it will be very much "outside the box" just like me 

here is what i find in mesh specs

View attachment mesh-table.pdf


thanks for your help and/or opinions

Dave C.


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## philddreamer (Mar 4, 2014)

Here are a few pic's of one, (of two), that I'm running for the next few days. I have about 15 pounds of pins that I need to deplate. 
One thing I've done with this one in particular, is to make the basket so it's about a good half inch from the bottom of the vessel; and I made the cathode deep enough so its just above the bottom of the basket. There's very little, if any, interference from the copper mesh, and the pins deplate with ease.

Phil


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## necromancer (Mar 4, 2014)

thank you, nice folding job on the copper basket !!

are you sure the open tray of ice water is a good idea ?

as a quick thought putting plastic film (cling wrap) over the tray and then putting your cell on top of the film will act as a (no splash barrier)

you can use wire or an elastic to keep the plastic film from getting in the way, or maybe put the tray in a small plastic trash bag and then putting your cell on top of it.......


saftey first

i am going to guess that is a 50 mesh you use on you basket ??

EDIT: to ask about the basket mesh


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## sharkhook (Mar 4, 2014)

The mesh of a standard window screen is a bit big if you are doing the smaller pins. I have several yards of that window screen in copper. It works OK if your doing slightly larger pieces. I have started doing the small, low grades by dumping them all in AP. ((Correct me if I am wrong) CuCl2). Just works easier for me.

EDIT: Try a zip tie, they make some in a chemical resistant plastic.


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## solar_plasma (Mar 5, 2014)

If this white cornet ever breaks of what ever reason, you could have a little disaster - just have that risc in mind.


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## necromancer (Mar 5, 2014)

another thread miffed.........


Mod / Admin, can you please delete this thread since it has gone "nowhere"


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## jimdoc (Mar 5, 2014)

It has been less than 24 hours, what ever happened to patience?

Jim


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## necromancer (Mar 5, 2014)

jimdoc said:


> It has been less than 24 hours, what ever happened to patience?
> 
> Jim



perfectly understood, do you use a Sulfuric Stripping Cell Jim ? if so do you have anything to add (on topic) that may be helpful in my final water cooled Sulfuric Stripping Cell tutorial

personally i am in no hurry what so ever its -16°C outside & i see so many threads go left or right & not forward & its been a bit slow for the last few days which makes time flow feel longer then it really is.

i have about 200 lbs of plated items stashed in my shed that i will get to in mid or late april, i am looking for the best type of mesh or plate to use in the cell 

thank you

Dave C.

PS, sorry if there is any "R's" missing, gravity & coffee don't mix well


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## jimdoc (Mar 5, 2014)

I have run a cell a few times, and have been waiting for the weather to warm up to do some more. 
I just followed Steve's instructions. I used copper mesh that I got at AC Moore craft store. Pins fall through the holes, so I wish the mesh was a little tighter. I don't like the water cooling idea. I would more likely use two or more cells, and allow one to cool down while I use another.
I would also stay away from stainless steel mesh.

Jim


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## necromancer (Mar 5, 2014)

lol, wait until you see my design i think you will like it 8)


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## ferrous (Mar 6, 2014)

necromancer said:


> lol, wait until you see my design i think you will like it 8)



I would like to see your design, how many pounds do you think you will be able to do before it gets to hot ?
Out of recycled material even better win win 
What's your thoughts on transferring the heat from the reaction vessel ? 
I don't want any of my dish's to crack from shock learned that one quick


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## necromancer (Mar 6, 2014)

ferrous said:


> necromancer said:
> 
> 
> > lol, wait until you see my design i think you will like it 8)
> ...





as i posted in my original post


"i am planing on a water cooled Sulfuric Cell (cooled at 4oC"

have not built this yet, my intention in starting this thread was to get more info about (SS - Copper mesh or perforated plate)
inside a sealed water cooled Sulfuric Cell (cooled at about 4oC

thank you


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## moose7802 (Mar 11, 2014)

To the OP, if I had 200 lb of pins like you do I would make one of the tumbler sulfuric cells. Check this thread out http://www.goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=5092&hilit=sulfuric+tumbler

Tyler


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## necromancer (Mar 11, 2014)

moose7802 said:


> To the OP, if I had 200 lb of pins like you do I would make one of the tumbler sulfuric cells. Check this thread out http://www.goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=5092&hilit=sulfuric+tumbler
> 
> Tyler






necromancer said:


> 200 lbs of plated items


........ not just pins alone, as the weather warms up there will be photos

Dave C.


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## moose7802 (Mar 12, 2014)

Either way plated items or pins this tumbler would be the way to go. 

Tyler


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## necromancer (Mar 12, 2014)

lots of work, no instructions

i like simple (no jokes please)


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## Palladium (Mar 12, 2014)

Their is instructions if you talking about the tumbler cell.


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## necromancer (Mar 12, 2014)

very nice thank you, looks like i wasn't the only one to miss the link, wonder if it gets hot over time ??

i have been looking at things like this:
http://www.sdshobby.com/esc-water-cooling-length42mm-width26mm-p-3466.html

and this:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/40-mm-water-..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item2589d8849a&_uhb=1

to cool the cell down if needed, attach tubing, hook up to a fish tank pump that is submerged in a bucket of ice water.

only thing i wonder about is condensation between the hot & cold source.

the first link uses heat sink glue so it can be mounted on the outside of the cell, 4 of these mounted to the bottom of the cell like feet.
not only will it cool down the cell but it will let air flow under the cell.

second link:

can be used in the same fashion but placed inside the cell so the sulfuric flows through the cooling jackets between the cathode & the anode
(lead & copper mesh), just don't know if the aluminium will interfere with the flow of the electric current & cause problems

i will need to try it out unless someone has a suggestion.


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## bmgold2 (Mar 12, 2014)

necromancer said:


> very nice thank you, looks like i wasn't the only one to miss the link, wonder if it gets hot over time ??
> 
> i have been looking at things like this:
> http://www.sdshobby.com/esc-water-cooling-length42mm-width26mm-p-3466.html
> ...



I like that first link, especially the price. Another option you might consider is Thermoelectric Cooling. This can be purchased as just the thermoelectric cooling module or you could scrap one from a 12 volt cooler like truck drivers use. Your idea sounds cheaper but the thermoelectric module has no moving parts except maybe a fan and there is no water used so no pump or ice would be needed.


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## necromancer (Mar 12, 2014)

i have thought about those but for the layman hooking up 4 or more in series might be tricky.
even though they " typically reduce the temperature by up to 20°C (36°F) below the ambient temperature" seems great but i am still thinking simple & cheap

everyone likes simple & cheap 8) 

the choice will be left to those who want to use the "simple" or the "complex"

great idea for the thread !!!


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## g_axelsson (Mar 15, 2014)

bmgold2 said:


> I like that first link, especially the price. Another option you might consider is Thermoelectric Cooling. This can be purchased as just the thermoelectric cooling module or you could scrap one from a 12 volt cooler like truck drivers use. Your idea sounds cheaper but the thermoelectric module has no moving parts except maybe a fan and there is no water used so no pump or ice would be needed.


For a thermoelectric cooler you need to cool the secondary surface somehow. It only moves heat from one side to the other and the resistive losses in the cooler also adds a lot of heat.
I have a small wine cooler with a thermoelectric element and a fan at the back. When the fan died the fridge went from +5C to +40C. I replaced the fan with some scrap from a computer and now it's working fine again.

Göran


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## necromancer (Apr 2, 2014)

can i use copper coated mesh as an anode basket ?

copper over rolled steel


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## necromancer (Apr 3, 2014)

necromancer said:


> can i use copper coated mesh as an anode basket ?
> 
> copper over rolled steel



can anyone help to answer this ?

would like to buy this, this friday if it will work

Thank You

Dave C.


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## jimdoc (Apr 3, 2014)

I would try to find pure copper mesh. I had stainless steel mesh first and it didn't last that long, and it is dangerous if it gives way and splashes into the sulphuric. I found mine at an AC Moore or Michael's art supply store. AC Moore has half price coupons at least once a month, so if I waited I could have got two.

Jim


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## necromancer (Apr 4, 2014)

thank you, we have a Michael's art supply close by. will check it out


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