# starting gold recover & refining



## Wookie (Jul 25, 2013)

hello everybody, i was attracted to gold recovery & refining, i think it's a good hobby luckily, it's can become a bussines. enough for chit-chat, i want to try a little gold recovery, what tool that i need to have? and what chemist i must have? thx. and can u add the price or total for that all. thx, sorry for bad english.


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## Geo (Jul 25, 2013)

Wookie, i dont think a list like that exist. i do know that what you are asking for is in the pages of this forum. use the search bar at the top of the page and type in short terms for the best answers. the cost will be more than you will make as a hobby unless you have a gold mine.
find a link for C.M. Hoke's book "refining precious metal waste" and download it and read it as many times as it takes to understand what she is saying. the link is in many members signature lines and its free.


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## squarecoinman (Jul 25, 2013)

Geo said:


> Wookie, i dont think a list like that exist. i do know that what you are asking for is in the pages of this forum. use the search bar at the top of the page and type in short terms for the best answers. the cost will be more than you will make as a hobby unless you have a gold mine.
> find a link for C.M. Hoke's book "refining precious metal waste" and download it and read it as many times as it takes to understand what she is saying. the link is in many members signature lines and its free.




Wookie the link for a free copy of Hoke´s book is in my signature, read this first then read it again. 

scm


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## Wookie (Jul 25, 2013)

squarecoinman said:


> Geo said:
> 
> 
> > Wookie, i dont think a list like that exist. i do know that what you are asking for is in the pages of this forum. use the search bar at the top of the page and type in short terms for the best answers. the cost will be more than you will make as a hobby unless you have a gold mine.
> ...


oke thank's


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## solar_plasma (Jul 25, 2013)

While you are reading Hoke, you can start collecting mlcc's, flatpacks, IC's, n/s bridges, pins, fingers, glucose strips, pcb's with gold plating, touch pads, keyboard mylars and of course cpu's - only to give you some search words for things you shouldn't throw away.


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## Wookie (Jul 26, 2013)

helo, i just found some circuit board from my attic, it's containing gold? thx






















is there something useful that i can collect? thank's


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## Geo (Jul 26, 2013)

the first picture is gold plated contacts. the second picture is a power supply and contains little to no precious metals. ive marked the third photo with points of interest (white circles contain gold bonding wires and the red circles have gold plated pins). the fourth photo shows three gold plated connectors. the smaller the gold plated item, the more gold content per overall weight.


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## solar_plasma (Jul 27, 2013)

The first picture shows lithium ion batteries. *Don't open or break them! *They contain inflammable liquids and in a short circuit they can start burning or even worse. I would give them to someone, who is specialized on them.


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

Geo said:


> the first picture is gold plated contacts. the second picture is a power supply and contains little to no precious metals. ive marked the third photo with points of interest (white circles contain gold bonding wires and the red circles have gold plated pins). the fourth photo shows three gold plated connectors. the smaller the gold plated item, the more gold content per overall weight.



thank you very much!, and how to open the chip that you give white circle?



solar_plasma said:


> The first picture shows lithium ion batteries. Don't open or break them! They contain inflammable liquids and in a short circuit they can start burning or even worse. I would give them to someone, who is specialized on them.



thank you, luckily last night i tried to open it with flat screwdriver but it's so hard so i give up.


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## solar_plasma (Jul 27, 2013)

Those black squares yield at least 1-2g/kg. Search for "flatpacks" and "yield". Combine also


> mlcc's, flatpacks, IC's, n/s bridges, pins, fingers, glucose strips, cell phone boards, touch pads, keyboard mylars, cpu


 each with "yield".

There is one thread with pictures and yields of all different black squares, but I can't find them anymore.

I forgot to mention "tantal capacitors".


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## butcher (Jul 27, 2013)

If you manage to break open the chip then what?

At this point your stuck on every little obstacle, not knowing what to do next, you could try asking thousands of questions to get a few answers, but the only way you will learn this is by studying, start with reading Hokes book, the general reaction list, guide to the forum (general chat section), and dealing with waste safety section. this will not only answer the question you have now but will help you to find answers to questions you would not even think to ask.


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

butcher said:


> If you manage to break open the chip then what?
> 
> At this point your stuck on every little obstacle, not knowing what to do next, you could try asking thousands of questions to get a few answers, but the only way you will learn this is by studying, start with reading Hokes book, the general reaction list, guide to the forum (general chat section), and dealing with waste safety section. this will not only answer the question you have now but will help you to find answers to questions you would not even think to ask.



i'd like to read hokes book, i already read it till page 50, all my problem is my english not to good, and if i use google translate, the translation is suck. so sorry if i have a ton of question


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

i've done my scrapping, here's my result in general






the black circle item, i don't know if any gold contain, but just in case i scrap them to. and black square chip, i can't open it. it's so hard to open it (like graphite). any one of my scrap is useles? thx


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## solar_plasma (Jul 27, 2013)

Just collect and sort! The rest comes with time and reading. Listen to Butcher:


> At this point your stuck on every little obstacle, not knowing what to do next, you could try asking thousands of questions to get a few answers,



It was and sometimes still is hard also for me not to ask all the questions I have, you have to force yourself to patience.

Your black circled pin seems not to have gold. If it had, you would see it. After my little bit experience there are no other pm's in them. If you want to do some extra work, you could cut them, only collecting the plated end. That saves a lot acid.


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

solar_plasma said:


> Just collect and sort! The rest comes with time and reading. Listen to Butcher:
> 
> 
> > At this point your stuck on every little obstacle, not knowing what to do next, you could try asking thousands of questions to get a few answers,
> ...



okay, thanks, i will collect as many as i can while i read hokes books. thx


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

hey, i just read few chapter on hokes book. i have a question
1) i don't know what fillings mean, i think it" like some ashes or dirt contain gold? am i right? 
2) if i'm right, so i shouldn't do sieve and magnet part?
3) on gold segment, it says HCl pure. what it's mean? does it mean 100% HCl?

please give me an answer or simple explanation. thx


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## g_axelsson (Jul 27, 2013)

Wookie said:


> i've done my scrapping, here's my result in general
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bend the contacts open on the black circled part, the contact surface is inside (female contact) and most cheap electronics is plated only where it is needed. Look for the gold color. If it is yellow then it is gold plated, if it's white then it is tin plated.

The three rounded pins looks more like brass. Is it a contact or just a mecanical part? Usually you don't use gold plate on mecanical parts. If it is massive then it most probably is brass.

Göran


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

g_axelsson said:


> Wookie said:
> 
> 
> > i've done my scrapping, here's my result in general
> ...



i don't think it's from mechanical part. as i remember it's some connector.


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## g_axelsson (Jul 27, 2013)

Wookie said:


> I don't think it's from mechanical part. as I remember it's some connector.


Is it magnetic? It's strange to mount a connector to the steel plate as you showed on the first picture. But the picture is too fuzzy for me to definitely tell you what it is, you have the parts in front of you and can make a better judgement.

Göran


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

g_axelsson said:


> Wookie said:
> 
> 
> > I don't think it's from mechanical part. as I remember it's some connector.
> ...



yes it's magnetic. take a look before i scrap it


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## g_axelsson (Jul 27, 2013)

I don't think it is a connector, after further consideration I wonder if it isn't zinc plated iron, that could have a yellow colour. You could test it.
A drop of HCl on the surface dissolves zinc, gold would be untouched.
A drop of HNO3 on the surface turns blue if it is brass. If there is any gold it will turn into loose flakes in the blue drop.

Learn how to test, read the forum and Hokes book, then you could find out for your self.

Welcome to the forum! 8) 

Göran


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

g_axelsson said:


> I don't think it is a connector, after further consideration I wonder if it isn't zinc plated iron, that could have a yellow colour. You could test it.
> A drop of HCl on the surface dissolves zinc, gold would be untouched.
> A drop of HNO3 on the surface turns blue if it is brass. If there is any gold it will turn into loose flakes in the blue drop.
> 
> ...


okay i'll do the test, i already read hokes book, but due languange issue, there's some part i don't clearly get it. here's my question

1) i don't know what fillings mean, i think it" like some ashes or dirt contain gold (from refinery)? am i right? 
2) if i'm right, so i shouldn't do sieve and magnet part if i work with electronic scarp?
3) on gold segment, it says HCl/HNO3 pure. what it's mean? does it mean 100% HCl?


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## solar_plasma (Jul 27, 2013)

> but due languange issue, there's some part i don't clearly get it. here's my question
> 
> 1) i don't know what fillings mean, i think it" like some a



http://www.dict.cc/

I use it excessively. Still not enough, I guess


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

solar_plasma said:


> > but due languange issue, there's some part i don't clearly get it. here's my question
> >
> > 1) i don't know what fillings mean, i think it" like some a
> 
> ...


oh, i get it now. thanks.


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## Geo (Jul 27, 2013)

i believe you mean to be typing "filings". its the bits of metal that are removed from a larger piece using a file or rasp. filings will be in the bench sweeps and floor sweeps from jewelers and metal shops. you should only work with filings from places that work with precious metals. also, buffing and polishing wheels and rugs from jewelers shops contain filings.


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

Geo said:


> i believe you mean to be typing "filings". its the bits of metal that are removed from a larger piece using a file or rasp. filings will be in the bench sweeps and floor sweeps from jewelers and metal shops. you should only work with filings from places that work with precious metals. also, buffing and polishing wheels and rugs from jewelers shops contain filings.


okay, i get it now what fillings is, my 3rd question?


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## Geo (Jul 27, 2013)

she was talking about technical grade or C.P. (chemically pure) acids. when making the aqua regia, she recommends you use pure, uncontaminated acids.


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## Wookie (Jul 27, 2013)

Geo said:


> she was talking about technical grade or C.P. (chemically pure) acids. when making the aqua regia, she recommends you use pure, uncontaminated acids.


in my country, chemical store sell 2 type of HCl chemical analysis & technical, what should i buy? analysis HCl cost $1,3/100ml and technical cost $3,2/Litre.


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## Geo (Jul 28, 2013)

the cheaper chemical is just a diluted form. it will still work to make AR but of coarse the formula would change a little to compensate for the weaker acid.


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## butcher (Jul 28, 2013)

Wookie,
I get my 32% HCl hydrochloric acid where they sell brick (used to clean concrete) you may find it at your local hardware store, it is sometimes called muriatic acid, just do not buy it if has inhibitors or says something like fume free, or green, you can Google the MSDS sheet for the product if you are unsure.

Before you run out and buy a bunch of acid and spend a lot of money on things you think you need, you should understand how to use them safely, I do not think you have done that yet, do you understand how to treat the toxic waste these acids create with metals, have you studied to find out what poisonous gases they create, what the reactions are and what they produce, and how to deal with these, are you sure you will not be making something explosive, and understand how not to, you need to be careful, it is hard to get anywhere when you put the cart in front of the horse, first you need to understand where to put the horse before you can drive the buggy to town and buy your acid.

From the questions you are asking it is obvious you will have problems at every step, slow down, study, that is where you will get your gold, not by forging ahead and stumbling around in the darkness, making all of the mistakes and then asking how to clean up the mess or how do you get the gold that disappeared when you mixed it with acids, by study you light your way, you know what you need and know what to do, and most important you know how to do it safely.

Gold fever is a terrible sickness; it can actually make it harder to get the gold.


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## g_axelsson (Jul 28, 2013)

Wookie said:


> in my country, chemical store sell 2 type of HCl chemical analysis & technical, what should i buy? analysis HCl cost $1,3/100ml and technical cost $3,2/Litre.


Go with the cheaper one. Pro analysis is a purer form with a list of the contaminants, mainly used for sensitive analysis work. Technical grade is not as pure but still more than enough pure for our usage.

Göran


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## Wookie (Jul 28, 2013)

Geo said:


> the cheaper chemical is just a diluted form. it will still work to make AR but of coarse the formula would change a little to compensate for the weaker acid.





g_axelsson said:


> Go with the cheaper one. Pro analysis is a purer form with a list of the contaminants, mainly used for sensitive analysis work. Technical grade is not as pure but still more than enough pure for our usage.
> 
> Göran



Thx for the answer, it's very helpful



butcher said:


> Wookie,
> I get my 32% HCl hydrochloric acid where they sell brick (used to clean concrete) you may find it at your local hardware store, it is sometimes called muriatic acid, just do not buy it if has inhibitors or says something like fume free, or green, you can Google the MSDS sheet for the product if you are unsure.
> 
> Before you run out and buy a bunch of acid and spend a lot of money on things you think you need, you should understand how to use them safely, I do not think you have done that yet, do you understand how to treat the toxic waste these acids create with metals, have you studied to find out what poisonous gases they create, what the reactions are and what they produce, and how to deal with these, are you sure you will not be making something explosive, and understand how not to, you need to be careful, it is hard to get anywhere when you put the cart in front of the horse, first you need to understand where to put the horse before you can drive the buggy to town and buy your acid.
> ...



my god, i don't think to that problem, what i get from Hokes book is.
1) acid waste from filter should be dilute with water.
2) fumes from the reaction should not touch mechanic/metal
3) if reaction created fumes, should be perform outdoor or in fume hood.

what i don't get, where i should throw acid waste? if it diluted with water, it's ok to throw it at gutter near from neighboor hood?


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## solar_plasma (Jul 28, 2013)

> what i don't get, where i should throw acid waste? if it diluted with water, it's ok to throw it at gutter near from neighboor hood?



NO.

Read on and use the search function! Of course it depends on, what is in your acid waste. For every kind of waste there are proper ways to treat it. Mostly it is not done with dillution or neutralization. ...no, in refining it is NEVER done with only dillution or neutralization. Often you can recycle the waste or parts of it. You put NOTHING into nature! Not even, what you believe is water.


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## butcher (Jul 28, 2013)

Study dealing with waste in the safety section.

From more study you can learn ways to use some of the "waste" from some of your processes, sometimes the chemical byproducts produced from reactions are actually useful chemicals.

You have been told where to begin that study, and if you were taking that advice (read the safety section of the forum and study dealing with waste) you will how to deal with the waste, you would also know how deadly this stuff would be to other people, you could poison and kill many people even whole towns if you just diluted and dumped your waste these toxic solutions would get into the peoples drinking water.

Keep studying Hokes, and study the other material suggested, it will take some time but every question is answered already, you just have not spent enough time finding all of those answers.


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