# tin oxide?



## kronix (Dec 4, 2012)

Hi I was wondering if I can make stannous chloride with tin oxide? 

I hope so because I just spent 5$ on an ounce of it haha.

Thanks!

*edited to add pictures*


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## kronix (Dec 4, 2012)

or does anyone know how to reduce the tin oxide to regular tin powder? 

i was hoping i could make the good old stan today, but i cant find any references to making it with the oxide, or how to reduce it to regular tin powder.

can i melt it to a button, possibly releasing the oxide?, or dissolve and precipitate, or maybe basify it, i dont know, im just throwing things out there at random, im no great chemist yet. 

any info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks again - Ian


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## butcher (Dec 5, 2012)

I do not think just mixing tin oxide in HCl would work.

There is a way to convert it to metal tin with mercury in a nitrate solution, but I wouldnt try it.

What I would do is take a brick of charcoal,with a pocket knife cut a hole in it like a crucible, add some tin oxide powder, cover with the carcoal dust you dug out of the hole, burn this coal brick with a torch, to reduce the tin oxide to metal.

Now you would have tin to make stannous chloride out of.

Just running down to the hardware store or going to the fishing tackle store and picking up some tin would be much easier.


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## g_axelsson (Dec 5, 2012)

This is an example when the word smelting could be used.

Tin was one of the earliest metals known to man, we have been able to extract it for 8500 years according to wikipedia ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smelting#Tin_and_lead ). I've heard that just mixing tin oxide (cassiterite) with charcoal and heating will reduce it to metal state. As seen on Time Team and youtube videos it can be done in a very small kiln.
According to http://www.carnmetl.demon.co.uk/tin.htm you need 1200 degrees C to reduce the tin.

If I were you, I would mix charcoal and tin oxide and heat it with a torch to see what happens.

/Göran


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## kronix (Dec 5, 2012)

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it. 

I tried dissolving it in hcl to no avail. 

I have some charcoal in a bag somewhere at home, I'll try it after work and post my results. 

Can I crush up the charcoal and mix 50/50 and melt that way? If I remember correctly I think the bag I have may be mostly powder from another experiment. 

Also, the hardware store where I live doesn't have tin solder and I was unaware you could get it from the fishing store. What would I be looking for at the fishing store?

Thanks again! -Ian


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## Geo (Dec 5, 2012)

if you live in the US, most states have regulations that restricts the use of lead in the environment (pellets in shotgun shells are now steel, fishing weights are now tin).i happen to live in Alabama which is one of the least restrictive states but they still have to offer a selection of both types for consumers. understandably, the tin products over lead cost a little more.even wheel weights are effected. in the most restrictive states,even wheel weights are made of tin and lead is considered a hazardous material (and rightly so).

are you looking for lead free solder in plumbing supplies? i cant imagine no one carries it in your area. 95/5 tin/antimony works best.the tin dissolves and the antimony will not dissolve in hcl.


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## kronix (Dec 5, 2012)

All the solder I have found is either silver based or has a rosin core flux...
Also I checked the fishing supply, and they have lead free weights but it didn't say what they were made of. They were more shiny than the led ones but I was unsure so I didn't buy them yet. I'll try the conversion first and see where that gets me.

Thanks! -Ian


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## g_axelsson (Dec 5, 2012)

My source of tin is an old pewter bowl. I bought a couple of banged up objects in a second hand store for a dollar a piece. Whenever I need new tin chloride I just cut a few grams of it and add hydrochloric acid. It usually takes one or a couple of days before it is ready to use as it is solid instead of powder, but with a bit of planning that isn't a problem.
A funny thing is that it changes colour from colorless to tinted green just before it goes bad.

/Göran


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## kronix (Dec 6, 2012)

hey everyone, hows it going? 

so i tried the charcoal thing with the tin oxide, but to no avail, it just kept blowing everywhere, its a really fine powder. i didn't want to contaminate my crucible with tin either, and i didnt want to buy a big bag of charcoal briquettes to use 1, so i just gave up on that project.

i bought some non lead split-shot fishing weights today, hoping that they are indeed tin. i will post back with pictures of my positive reaction with a known solution if everything works out well. 

the weights i got were size 7 matzuo non lead sinkers. i can post a pic if anyone wants, after i make sure that they are tin. 

also, on another note, i found a local store that sells some glassware, which of course i felt like a kid in a candy store haha. i bought a 1000 ml, 600 ml, and 250 ml beaker, and a 50 ml graduated cylinder. they are kimax brand, but the value ware, has anyone used this line of products before? will they hold up to refining, if im careful with tempurature changes and chipping? 

thanks! -Ian


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## kronix (Dec 6, 2012)

Success at last!!!! 

I finally have a good testing solution. Showed dark purple instantly on my standard and more importantly showed no gold in my used smb solution. 

Thanks again!! -Ian


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## nickvc (Dec 7, 2012)

Ian I'm sure I have used kimax over here in the UK, they are ok but are easily shattered but with care they are useable, be very careful of temperature changes I had a few that literally the bottom fell out, it was my fault and luckily they were in catchment vessels. Use corning ware if you can find it, if it's good enough for GSP need I say more.


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