# gold plating setup



## bmgold (Nov 11, 2008)

O.K. I'm starting to get discouraged with the amount of gold I am likely to extract considering the small quantity of scrap I have available to process so I'm thinking about trying to get into gold plating. I once worked at an electronics assembly plant and did some re-plating of gold fingers when some solder got on the already plated parts. This was a simple process involving a special power supply and a Q-tip dipped in a special gold solution. 

I wonder if the solutions we use would re-plate stuff if you did have the right power supply. I have spent more money on this adventure than I should have so far and have no real gold to show for it so purchasing a small plating power supply might be another option for me. I might not have enough gold to make a nugget of gold but I would think that if it was once gold plating it could be gold plating again and I've seen that a tiny bit of gold can look like a lot when it is only .0001 inch or so thick. 

Has anyone tried this or have any ideas on where to get the proper power supply and an idea of what it might cost? I'm thinking that re-plating cheap jewelry or other stuff might be a way to use the small amount of gold I might be able to extract from scrap and put it to a good use. 

Maybe a cheap test could be done with a dry cell battery for the power supply but even this might be to high of voltage. I wish I would have hooked a volt meter to the supply I did use but I was working and didn't have time to test things like that. I know someone on this forum will know the voltage required. Thanks.


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## butcher (Nov 11, 2008)

I can only guess, and do not know much about electroplating, I am sure there would be alot of problems to deal with to get electrolyte right and to keep it that way, but I do believe that these can be used to plate with as I have added copper pieces to some of my solutions (without electrical current)and they plated almost instantly and actually look pretty good, especially for a solution that was not prepared for plating.


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## Harold_V (Nov 11, 2008)

bmgold said:


> I wonder if the solutions we use would re-plate stuff if you did have the right power supply.


No, they would not. Plating solutions tend to be highly refined, with necessary buffers added. Gold used for plating is generally in a cyanide solution, although that is not always the case. 

Assuming he's tracking the forum on a daily basis, you really need to hear from GSP, who has extensive experience in the refining and plating industry. He would be better able to inform you of your objective. I'm speaking from the position of having had very little experience in plating, although I have done both gold and copper. 

One thing that strikes me odd---if you can't get enough gold to make a button-----how is it you feel you'd have enough gold to make plating solutions? 

Are you aware that gold plating generally requires a barrier layer of nickel plating beneath, to eliminate the migration of gold to the base metals? 

Harold


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## bmgold (Nov 11, 2008)

O.K. I guess I need to quite asking dumb questions and try it and fail without making a fool of myself online. I just had to say something didn't really have anything to say :roll: 

I don't have much separated scrap to process but I've been a pack rat for as long as I can remember and have a couple hundred old primestar receivers stashed away and a few broken computers. Also a little bit of karat gold scrap but don't have the time to tear apart the receivers yet and don't want to waste the karat scrap until I know what I'm doing and I really want to get a fume hood before playing around too much. Don't just want to vent the fumes outside without some filtering. I guess it is better than nothing but those fumes would still go out for everyone to enjoy if just vented or even if just done outside.

Maybe the plating answer is to just throw money at it:

Electroplating Pen Kit
3342K11
Repl. Anode Handles

Portable and completely self-contained, this electroplating system is excellent for repairing printed circuit boards, electronic components, and lab instruments, as well as for general plating applications.
Kit includes 1 oz. each of liquid 24K gold, sterling silver, copper plating, alkaline copper, brass, and nickel. Also furnished with 1 oz. each of dulling compound and stainless steel plate, 4 oz. of chrome stripper, a plating pen, two anode handles, pair of gloves, spray bottle, and instructions. The plating pen plates metal at a thickness of 1.5-2 microns per pass (up to 20 microns); it includes three tips (two 1/16" dia. tips and one 1/8" dia. tip). Anodes have washable covers and plate at a thickness of 4 microns. Using the anodes, plating can be built up to 50-60 microns. Operates on 120 VAC, 50/60 Hz, single phase and includes a power cord with two-prong plug. The power supply is UL listed.
3342K11 Each $443.40

This was from McMaster-Carr...maybe not the cheapest kit around but we deal with them a lot at work and they have quick shipping and good service.

I'll go back to lurking for a while and try to keep my crazy ideas inside my head where they belong instead of making everyone else listen to them.

Nothing against you Harold, I really do value your input and this forum would not be the same without you. Keep it up!!! I read all your comments and have learned much from them.


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## Harold_V (Nov 12, 2008)

It does no harm to propose your ideas, for that's the way we all learn. Someone, somewhere, usually has walked in shoes similar to yours and can provide insight as to the feasibility of most any concept. It's up to you to sort through the comments and pick those that you feel are helpful. Keep talking----that's what the board is for. If you say something that's obviously stupid, or wrong, we'll try to inform you properly, assuming we're able. In my case, pretty much all of my comments are based on practical experience. 

I try to keep folks grounded. That's why I asked about your proposed plan to provide plating solutions. You can't do it with a couple grams of gold-----you must have volume, or a steady supply. You also must understand the chemistry that is involved. That's why I was hoping for GSP to chime in, but he has been away from the site of late. 

There are many crazy notions around, often well promoted. If I can save you from making a mistake, that's my objective. Do remember----I have nothing to gain from the advice I hand out so freely----my interest is in helping, with no strings attached. Your success is my reward, and your failures are my displeasure. 

Harold


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## bmgold (Nov 12, 2008)

Thanks again Harold. 

I'm not expecting to "provide" plating solutions to anyone. Just want a small amount for personal use as the saying goes. I expect a small pinch of gold flakes dissolved in a tiny bit of HCl/clorox will prove or disprove my idea. I should know in less than a week since I did order the kit. More than I wanted to pay but it looks like it contains everything needed to get set up and it should allow me to test my idea even if I know it probably won't work. I still think it might but I still think there's gold in rocks too. 

As for your answer to my previous post on homemade ingot molds, I am understanding your comments on grinding the small radius on the bottom of the cutter. It makes me realize that the $50 or so for the commercial mold is probably not out of line. I still want to make my own but will end up spending 1/2 that much just for the cutter and material not counting my time. By the way, I've worked in machine shops for the last 15+ years off and on so I know I can do it. Might not be worth doing but I can if I want to. 

Like I said, I still plan to test my plating idea and will post my results good or bad unless nobody wants to hear me and my crazy thoughts. I will still try to limit my posts a bit and hold those crazy ideas swimming around my head from getting out. 

I gotta get to work to pay for the plating system now but YOU keep posting your thoughts. From my searches of this forum I can tell you usually know what you talk about and keep people safe and on the right track if possible.


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## Harold_V (Nov 12, 2008)

I mentioned I had done some gold and copper plating. The copper was accomplished using a commercially prepared cyanide solution, but I made my own for the gold operation. Considering it was something I felt I may do again, I also made my own anode. The idea of making your own plating solutions for your personal use makes sense now that I understand your objective. 

I made my gold solution from gold chloride---which was then dissolved in a given percentage of cyanide and distilled water. The end product is a clear solution. I know it works, but you are limited to the amount that can be plated before the part must be buffed. 

I plated a pair of railroad spikes. one for an old friend, now deceased, and one for myself. One of my customers had a nickel cell, so he plated the nickel barrier for me, so I wouldn't have to go to the trouble to make another setup. 

I seem to recall that I found the process in Hoke's book, but I could be wrong. It was more than 13 years ago, so my memory has grown dim. You aren't likely to achieve success using your solutions as they are, but you can certainly use the processes involved to prepare gold for plating. You shouldn't have a problem getting the solution you have now to cement the gold, but getting it to adhere and be a good surface may well present more problems than you care to deal with. That's the only reason I have reservations. 

I'll be interested in hearing the results you achieve, good or bad, so please do let us know how the process goes with your own solutions.

Harold


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## bmgold (Nov 12, 2008)

I got the plating kit today. I knew that McMaster-Carr was quick. Less than 24 hours from ordering to UPS delivery. Unfortunately, the nickel solution was spilled when I got it. Some was in the bag that the bottle was in but some got in the packaging materials. A quick call and a replacement bottle is being sent out. Another good reason to deal with this company (good service). 

My plan is to learn to do the plating using real solutions and then once I am convinced that I can do good plating the right way, I will test out homemade solutions. After all, if I can't make it work with the real thing, there isn't much chance that a homemade substitute will work. One thing that surprised me is that the voltage output is a little over 12 Volts. I expected much less. 

When I get time to read all the instructions and do some tests I'll post more updates and maybe get some pictures to post.


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## butcher (Nov 13, 2008)

there is quite a bit of information on gold plating and soliutions on the internet. do some search's, also look for it assosiated with plating in the electronic industry (etcetera), they publish alot of information on it and disguss it alot, also noting the problems with it.


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## bmgold (Nov 17, 2008)

I have "played" with the plating kit a little bit now and am not having much luck. It turns the item black if the solution is not diluted and you have to move the anode with its wet cover pretty quick to avoid the burning. 

A test with the gold solution and a 1.5 volt AA battery was much slower but did seem to plate better. The plating didn't rub back off like it does with the "real" power supply. 

I wonder if I got ripped off yet again or if more practice will get better results? 12 volts seems to high and a small battery gave better results so I think ........


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## Harold_V (Nov 17, 2008)

bmgold said:


> I wonder if I got ripped off yet again or if more practice will get better results? 12 volts seems to high and a small battery gave better results so I think ........



Are you following the instructions, or are you doing what you want to do, with no regard to what is advised? Plating is generally a critical balance of all conditions, with minor variations enough to ruin the process. 

When I commented on doubting your approach, part of my doubt was that you wanted to plate from solutions that are prepared as if you had recovery or refining in mind. I would expect that wouldn't work. Plating is very different, in spite of appearing to be one and the same. Too bad GSP isn't following your posts so he could chime in. He would likely have some good pointers on what's wrong, and what won't work. 

Harold


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## bmgold (Nov 18, 2008)

Again, Harold, I expect/know you are right. I am not polishing the parts before I plate and the directions say to clean with ammonia based cleaner and rinse and do not dry. 

I need to wait until I have time to do it right and quit wasting the solutions trying to take shortcuts. 

When I get time to try again, the right way, I'll try to take a picture or two to post. 

Thanks for keeping me on the right track.


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## butcher (Nov 18, 2008)

metals oxidize.
Yes what would we do without harold to keep us in line? :lol:


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## goldsilverpro (Dec 23, 2008)

Plating is a very critical art/science. There are no shortcuts. To get the plating to adhere to the object, all soil or oil has to first be removed. This can be done with a proprietary alkaline cleaner or a warm solution of dish washing soap. After rinsing well, metal oxides must be removed from the surface. This is usually done with 10% H2SO4 or 50% HCl - both by volume. Different base metals require different cleaning cycles. The part should be kept wet during the entire cycle. Otherwise, fresh oxides will form and the plating adhesion will be poor. All in all, you must follow the instructions, to a tee, given by the process supplier.

Each type of plating solution operates within a specific current density (CD) range. Current density is the amperage applied per sq.in. or sq.ft. or sq.decimeter, etc. If you exceed the CD, the deposit will burn (darken) and the adhesion may be poor.

Most all gold solutions, no matter what matrix is used, will deposit gold. However, to get GOOD plating that is bright and shiny and adheres, the chemical formulation is critical. About the only matrices that produce good gold plating are cyanide, sulfite, and some phosphate formulas. Besides the proper gold compounds, there are always other ingredients added that do such things as promote conductivity. Only a few formulas work and these have been perfected over the years. If you try to develop new formulas, you will most surely fail.


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## bmgold (Dec 23, 2008)

Thanks for the reply GSP. I have to wait until things slow down around here before trying the plating kit again. I try to do to many things at once and nothing ends up being finished. 

I have experienced the dark, burnt looking plating and also the plating not sticking while trying to skip steps so I know you are right. The kit contains some kind of powder that gets mixed with water to make a chrome stripping solution that, I think, is used with the switch in the stripping position and with a separate anode and cloth cover to remove old chrome before replating. No chrome plating solution is included in this kit. Just nickel, 2 types of copper, gold, and silver. 

I tried to plate a quarter but had no real luck. I tried the two copper solutions and it started to work but with slight polishing it rubbed right off. I think it said to nickel plate any copper before platting with gold but I don't know if a quarter would be considered copper or if it is already plated and would take the gold plate if it was cleaned and the directions were followed exactly. 

Thanks for renewing my interest in this project that I started and never finished. If and when I try again I'll post my results good or bad. I fail more often than not and you would think I would learn to not even try anymore but I don't or at least haven't yet.


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## butcher (Dec 23, 2008)

there are no failures,only lessons.


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## Lou (Dec 24, 2008)

butcher said:


> there are no failures,only lessons.





That's what my parents said about me 


Har, har, har!

:lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Platdigger (Dec 24, 2008)

Good one Lou!  haha


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## butcher (Dec 24, 2008)

ther proud  of that lesson Ill bet.


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## bmgold (Jan 26, 2009)

I tried the plating kit again with a cleaned and polished penny and a nickel. I had the same problem of almost instant burnt surface and the plating wipes right off. I'm going to take the power supply box to work today and rip it apart to see what's inside it. I'm convinced that there is something wrong with the supply putting out over 12 volts. I tried the nickel with a 1.5 volt battery and some copper plating solution and got a thin plate of pink colored copper that didn't wash right off so I expect to either find the regulator is broken or the design is bad and not regulating the voltage down at all. 

One thought I had was to cut the power down by using a salt water solution with a couple electrodes in series with the plating wire and adjusting the amount of salt to get the voltage cut back to a level that doesn't burn the plating. 

I'll post my findings when I get the supply opened up and checked out.


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## Oz (Jan 26, 2009)

Be aware that your salt water resister will give off chlorine gas.


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## butcher (Jan 27, 2009)

a voltage devider can be made with a potentiometer, a trick to limit current is a series light bulb, if you need help with the circuit, I can help answer electronic question. also if tou just need a power supply to do your plating you could just fix one up easily.


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## bmgold (Jan 27, 2009)

Thanks for the hints and suggestions. I opened up the power supply box and there was not much inside. It uses a 12 volt wall mounted transformer and that plugs into the control box. This switches the power to the plating wire or the stripping wire and the voltage is reversed between the two and the voltage is NOT regulated down from the 12 volts. I don't know if this is how it was designed or if it is defective. It seems, to me, to be way to high voltage for plating small items. It burns instantly and when wiped or polished it comes off with no plating remaining. 

I tried my salt water resistor and it helped a little but I still haven't got it right yet. I'm running out of plating solutions and may just count my loses and give up on this system unless I get a better result soon. Someday I may build a new, regulated power supply but I have to many other projects started already. 

I guess if I can't even plate stuff with the solutions from the kit, there is no chance of any homemade solutions working either.


Updated: I give up on plating coins and, as a last resort, I tried copper plating the handle of an old spoon. Much better results even with the original 12 volt supply. I didn't clean up the handle real good before plating so there was some thin spots that did easily wipe off but it looks like coins just don't plate with this setup. I don't know why they won't plate. Especially the nickel. I'm almost out of the copper solution and the gold solution is about half gone from failed ... I mean lessons learned ...

My next test, after maybe a little more careful experiments with the spoon, is to test out some copper containing solution from the AP processing of fingers and other gold containing stuff since I have a little bit laying around from the small test batches I've done so far.


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## butcher (Jan 28, 2009)

My idea is the wall wart transformer at 12 volts and probably not much current is not going to work to plate larger objects. 
was this tool for spot plating?
I would think about 3 to 5 volts and maybe a higher current, maybe search gold plating and current density's.
I still believe you may be able to plate with homade solutions, but would need to study the break down of solutions with current and take precautions accordingly.
why cant you figure out the solution you have bought, figure out what it is and make a solution of similar makeup and also, research electroplating solutions ,voltage ,current density's, etcetera.
also look for maybe a non-cyanide sulfite based gold plating solutions.
and plating base metals to plate gold to.
I can see when you set your mind to something that you stick to it, and that is where you become sucessful, not that most of the things you try will work, but you gain knowlede of what will not work, untill you find what will work.


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## bmgold (Jan 28, 2009)

> My idea is the wall wart transformer at 12 volts and probably not much current



It is 12 volts at 1.5 Amps



> was this tool for spot plating?



Yes, it was only meant for small things. I've been using the electrode with a little cloth sponge over it to plate (or try) small stuff. It also came with a pen to do touch up plating but I haven't tried this out much.




> I can see when you set your mind to something that you stick to it, and that is where you become sucessful, not that most of the things you try will work, but you gain knowlede of what will not work, untill you find what will work.



Stubborn? :wink: Actually I start many more things than I ever stick with long enough to finish. Or maybe I just put them on hold for 10 or 20 years until I get around to it. I do know of a lot of things that don't work :lol: 

I'd post a picture of my spoon but it isn't good enough to waste the time or space. It wasn't prepared properly and didn't plate without spots. Also, it is copper and looks like copper and not real shiny like gold. Kind of a pink/brown color and not thick enough to polish up without rubbing through. If I don't give up completely, I'll figure this thing out. It's freezing cold in my shop so I haven't dug out my used AP solution to try to plate out the copper but will someday soon. I don't really expect it to work (at least not very well) but that won't stop me from trying it.


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## Anonymous (Jan 28, 2009)

I would check and make sure the output is DC thats is required to plate. I agree that 12v is too high, it may start as that from the transformer but there should be voltage drop from the rectifier, also a capacitor could be bad letting the current have a lot of ripple.

Jim


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## bmgold (Jan 28, 2009)

The output is DC but I question the box (controller) that came with the kit. I opened it up to see what was in it and except for the LED lights and the switch there was only one sealed up box with some wires going into it. I expect that was to keep prying eyes from seeing what was inside. It could just be wires hooked together or there could be some ciruit inside that is not doing its job. It is sealed with some kind of epoxy or something and I MAY destroy it just to see what WAS inside. I guess if it came down to it and with some internet searching for power supply circuits, I could re-design it and just make the regulator myself. The way it is working now I could just use the wall wart with a couple test leads and get the same thing without the fancy indicator lights.

Anyone have any idea how to get inside a sealed device without destroying it? Maybe some paint thinner or some heat. Maybe just a hammer. :twisted: I've spent a lot of money on this kit but I expect that IF there was a waranty on this kit it is expired and if it isn't I already voided it by opening the case although there may not be a way to tell that I did. It hasn't really worked right yet but I can't be sure if it's my fault or the devices fault.

I'll try to take some pictures before I do anything extreme to have a before picture just in case :roll: Everything comes apart...It might not go back together, but it will come apart :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: No user servicable parts inside!!! Kind of sounds like a challenge doesn't it???


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## Anonymous (Jan 28, 2009)

That should be the rectifier. If that is all they have, now I'm no expert, I do not think you had a ice cubes chance well you see were I am going.

I would be sending it back.
There should be components to adjust the voltage, I am sure one of the plater guys will verify that the voltage is different for each metal based on the electromtive series and half cell voltages..

Jim


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## Anonymous (Jan 28, 2009)

I did some checking on the net and found the "brush plating" guys use 3 - 6 volts.

Jim


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## bmgold (Jan 28, 2009)

Thanks Jim,

Here's a picture of the box opened up.


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## Anonymous (Jan 28, 2009)

Weres the transformer fit? Is it in a seperate box? That thing could be a sealed circiut ti keep stuff from getting in it. But there still should be a way to change the voltage. I think you could fix it with a multi tap transformer and a selector switch.

I should make them, looks like they are high profit.

Jim


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## bmgold (Jan 28, 2009)

The transformer is just a wall wart that plugs into the wall and the output goes to the box at the upper right in the picture. It is 1.5 amps and 12 volts D.C.

Other than not getting that high of current, your idea of a switchable power supply gave me an idea to try a universal wall wart supply to limit the voltage instead of just trying to regulate the output down. 

I'm glad I didn't resort to the hammer just yet. 

Making these to sell could be a good way to make money if you can find another sucker to buy it. The solutions that came with the kit were a big part of the cost though. 

On the topic of solutions, I tried plating with some used AP solution and a 1.5 volt battery and got a nice copper plating on the spoon but it could be scratched off with some effort. That might have been due to not cleaning the spoon good enough to get a good surface to plate to or maybe it would never stick real good. It did look nice and maybe any plating would come off if scratched like I did especially when it is thin to start with. It looks like it might have a chance of working though. 

I'll find a switchable voltage wall wart in a day or so and give that a try. Thanks for the idea.


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## butcher (Jan 28, 2009)

cleaning your object is gonna be important , try acid bath just prior to plating, not letting oxidation set in metals.

you have a 12 volt probably A/C wall wart transformer, my guess the box sealed would be no more than a bridge rectifier (four diodes) which change the alternating current to direct current(DC), most likely a capacitor to smooth ripple of DC. and at most a 5 volt regulator, (maybe a current regulator but unlikely since wall wart current so small).

this you can build from electronic scrap for free, or a few dollars at radio shack, if you want to build one I would use a larger transformer, so it would be more versitile, scematics can be found look for power supply circuit, maybe LM7805 data sheet, and if you want help just ask,

and see what you can find on sulfite based electrolytic solutions.
or acid based electrolyte for gold plating, electronic industry has used both. although they may also use nickel, and they do like to keep these secret but then they also like to talk about or ask questions about their plating solutions, so with some effort you can figure out how to make yer own.


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## bmgold (Jan 30, 2009)

Well, I tried a universal power adapter set at 4.5 volts and got a real nice coating of copper from the used AP solution. Unfortunately it didn't stick to the spoon. It took some rubbing but it came back off. 

I'm going to put the system back in the box until it warms up enough to work in my shop again and then try the acid dip to clean whatever I plan to plate. 

Thanks for all the advice. I'll post more results when I try it again once this winter calms down a bit.


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## Lou (Jan 30, 2009)

You're going to learn that the most important things in electrochemistry and electroplating are:

1. composition of your electrolyte
2. how well you prepared/cleaned/etched your substrate you're plating onto
3. current density
4. temperature


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## bmgold (Feb 3, 2009)

Thanks again for all the replies on this plating idea. I was going to put it aside for a while but I just can't seem to get it out of my mind until I get something to plate. Right now I don't have a real project or use for this but If I figure it out I'm sure the projects and uses will be there.

I am pretty sure most of my problem is with the cleaning of the parts to be plated since I did some internet searching and it looks like just polishing the parts and washing with soap and water then dipping the coins or whatever into a cleaning solution and rinsing off is not enough. Probably need some heat also.

The whole plating kit with its wall wart power supply and 12 volt only output is another problem. I have done some searching for schematics and decided to just order a real plating rectifier to use with the plating solutions I still have left. The one I ordered was a 25 amp digital plating rectifier with controls to adjust the voltage and also the current. I sure hope this was the right choice and hope I figure this thing out pretty quick. For the money I have spent on this crazy idea I could have probably sent my spoon or coin to a commercial plating company and gotten it gold plated by a pro but what fun would that be and I don't really need a gold or copper spoon anyway.

I'll keep the group posted on my progress with this idea after the new power supply comes in. I'm still hoping to find a use for the copper containing AP solution I have and eventually move on to gold and silver. For now, I still have a little copper solution left and some nickel solution. I never opened the silver or brass solutions yet so I should still have an ounce each of these. I'll try the real plating solutions first to eliminate the solution as a part of my problem and then try my homemade ones.


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## bmgold (Feb 5, 2009)

The new power supply came in today and I played around with it a little bit. It looks like this one will work. It is adjustable both voltage and current and from my tests so far it looks like my original wall wart powered plating kit was never going to work right. The voltage makes a big difference. Even as small a change as 1/10th of a volt makes a noticable difference in how it plates and I can burn the plated coin by moving the dial a slight bit to high.

I don't have anything good enough to try to post a picture yet but the coin I tested this new power supply on has a definite copper coating that doesn't rub right off. I even used some polishing compound on it and the plating stayed on. My cleaning still needs some work and I kept turning up the voltage to see just how high I could go without burning. It looks like the voltage will have to be kept under 2.5 volts but this will probably change with the type of plating solution used and how concentrated the solution is. 

I tried my used AP solution and it also did plate onto the coin but was darker colored (probably more than just copper in this solution) and it is to acidic and will take the plated copper back off the coin unless it is diluted some.

I definitely need some more work to get this plating idea to work even with the real plating solutions but I am sure that it will work now. I may try finding an e-mail for the company that made my first kit and see if the 12 volt output is what it was supposed to have or if I did in fact get a defective unit. I definitely voided any guarantee so I would not expect them to replace it even if it was defective from the start but it would be nice to know if I just don't know how to make that unit work or if it would never work the way it is. I can't imagine the company being around long if all the kits work (or don't work) like the one I got.

I haven't tried it yet but I expect the new power supply would work great to use for the gold stripping cell. I think the lowest voltage it will supply is 1.1 volts so it might not be low enough to refine silver. I'll have to do some searching on this forum to get the plans for the silver refining cell again.


Here's a link to a site that tells how to nickel plate old radio parts:

http://www.stanwatkins.com/nickel.htm

It mentions the temperature requirement (around 125 degrees F.) Low temperatures promote blistering and dull plating. Also, it has information on cleaning the parts.

Another one is:

http://www.finishing.com/85/42.shtml
EDIT: should have been: http://www.finishing.com/faqs/howworks.html

This one tells how to zinc or copper plate with common household stuff like vinegar, salt, sugar, etc. I never tried it yet. Probably not real high quality plating but HOMEMADE. Has some good info. Even waste disposal of the dissolved copper from the solution using steel wool.

I've still got much to learn before I figure this skill out but IF I don't give up, I'll probably get it eventually.


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## bmgold (Feb 7, 2009)

Well, it took some time and more money than I care to admit but I think I finally got what I was shooting for.  

I used the acid/peroxide that had copper and probably other metals dissolved in it from my small tests with gold fingers and the new power supply to plate a quarter.

The quarter was cleaned and polished up then rinsed off and dipped into some sulfuric acid and rinsed quickly and put into the plating solution. (This was probably what kept the copper on the coin instead of just rubbing right back off.)

I diluted the AP mixture quite a bit with water and added a pinch of sugar (don't know if the sugar helped or hurt) as a "brightener". I used a piece of copper pipe as the anode (+ side) and hooked the coin to the cathode (- side).

The voltage I used started at 0.3 Volts and ended at 0.4 Volts and the plating time was probably 5-10 minutes. It plated a lot quicker than that but I wanted to try to get a thick enough coating to allow me to polish it up without rubbing through the plating. The current drawn showed a maximum of 0.1 Amps at this very low voltage.

The coin came out of the plating solution very pink colored and got a shiny, slightly red color after polishing. I have to hold it at just the right angle to see the copper color but it is definitely on there. I expect the color to darken a bit as the copper oxidizes. I put it in a 2X2 cardboard coin holder so it might not oxidize as quick as it would exposed to the open air but it should still darken up with time. I'll keep this one as a reminder of my first somewhat good electroplating experiment and hopefully my attempts will only improve from here. 

The picture doesn't show the color very well but it did plate pretty good.

I couldn't or probably wouldn't have stuck with it without the help and advice I got on this forum.

Thanks everyone :!:


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## bmgold (Feb 13, 2009)

Well, I keep on playing around with this idea and I have to admit I don't really know what I'm doing but it is working.

My latest attempt was done with another quarter and this time I heated the plating solution before using it. I kept turning up the voltage expecting to burn the coin but it did not. I was at a little over 12 volts and it was still working. I quess that a possible reason is that I am reusing the same homemade plating solution with a piece of copper for the anode and I expect it to be dissolving this copper into the solution at the same time it is plating it onto the coin. Like I said, I don't really know but it is working.

Now I wonder if the original plating kit was not as bad as I thought. I haven't tried it again since I got the new power supply.

Anyway, here's a couple more pictures. The first one is the coin from the last post after a few days to give it some time to bring out the copper color (oxidize?) and the second one is my latest attempt with a lighter color. I expect it to also darken up a bit with some time.

Thanks again everyone.


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