# Non-hallmarked jewlery in a Cell



## Tmcfarland1983 (Jan 9, 2011)

So i've got my cell up and running and I had about two pounds of crap jewelry i had picked up from goodwill in a grab-bag jar. Does all gold-colored jewelry have some amount of gold on it, even if its not hallmarked? I processed about a pound of unmarked scrap on some mesh that I cut out of a flour sifter. It bubbled up as if it were plated. But I'm not sure if its detrimental to the cell in the end if the scrap wasn't plated at all. Get what I'm saying? Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## samuel-a (Jan 9, 2011)

Can you provide a picture of your scrap?
I'm sure some one will be able to better help you using pictures...


----------



## Tmcfarland1983 (Jan 9, 2011)

Not right now, maybe this afternoon as my Camera is AWOL. Its basically Costume jewelry. Think Monet and Avon stuff.


----------



## patnor1011 (Jan 9, 2011)

If they are not halmarked or otherwise marked they are what they are - junk.
A lot of variations from brass to anodized aluminum to simply paint. There may be gold plated but from my experience it is usually 1 out of 10.


----------



## 61 silverman (Jan 25, 2011)

My experience with deciding on costume jewelry is by trial and error..
You mentioned MONET that is one of the better items as far as plated items go, Watch how much you pay for any of it you can nickel and dime yourself into frustration.. The avon items I have found have very little.. I watched a program they mentioned plating 180 pounds of some BUTTON's, for 1 ounce of gold....( dont have a picture ) it was on how its made, plastic buttons gold plated, button size I think was near that of a nickel.. plated both sides. (weight wise that does not matter. ) 

Mark


----------



## mlgdave (Feb 10, 2011)

Is all Monet plated? Or does it say Monet 12k plated? 

Mlgdave


----------



## qst42know (Feb 12, 2011)

I wouldn't get to excited about any of the costume jewelery names you will get more for a box full at auction than you will ever recover in pm's.

Honestly, check what you get incidentally when buying something of value but to hunt it specifically you will lose money.


----------



## goldsilverpro (Feb 13, 2011)

Although I can't remember the actual values, I once stripped 2, 30 gal drums, brim full, of Swank gold plated jewelry using cyanide. Maybe 1000 - 1500#. The stuff ran medium, maybe 15 - 20 micro" - maybe about $20/#, or a little more. Many types of seemingly lo-grade material can really add up when you've got lots of it. It was rejects from the Swank factory, who made cheap men's jewelry (tie tacks, cuff links, etc.) back when a lot of men wore ties.

Nothing on the planet (copper alloys, dyed anodized aluminum, paint, etc.) comes even close to looking like real gold, whether plated or solid. I can't imagine getting fooled by it after you know what real gold looks like. The best way to learn is to compare it, side-by-side, with a similar object(s) that you know is gold.


----------



## Harold_V (Feb 13, 2011)

goldsilverpro said:


> Nothing on the planet (copper alloys, dyed anodized aluminum, paint, etc.) comes even close to looking like real gold, whether plated or solid. I can't imagine getting fooled by it after you know what real gold looks like. The best way to learn is to compare it, side-by-side, with a similar object(s) that you know is gold.



Very well stated.

Harold


----------



## qst42know (Feb 13, 2011)

Manufactures scrap would make all the difference. Imagine finding them one by one and buying each piece with the content unknown. A gamble on breaking even at best.


----------



## qst42know (Feb 14, 2011)

When you do a deal with a manufacturer like this do you work on a percentage or do you buy the material outright?


----------

