# any more mechanics around



## steyr223 (Feb 28, 2013)

Hello everyone
Sorry about being gone for so long i have
another car problem

Replace the entire steering column
Complete all the way with steering wheel
1998 Chevy Astro van 4.3 liter

Just like a fuel pump starts and stops
This time it won't run when you spray
Starter fluid into it. It still stops

Cant get a reading on the computer
Possible pass key ignition security problem
Tried 2 or 3 resets didn't work
All comments are welcome
Thanks steyr223


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## Palladium (Feb 28, 2013)

Does the security light come on and stay on when you try to crank it or does it flash on and off?


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## cnbarr (Mar 1, 2013)

Is it the 4.3L V6 Vortek.? Judging by your. Description it could be one of two problems if not both. Did you get your fuel pump from Checker? If so their manufacturer had an issue with a faulty wiring harness that caused fuel pump failure. And 96' through 99' V6 vorteks also had a fault with the ignition switch module causing faulty diagnosticodes!when it was actually a failed ignition switch.


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## steyr223 (Mar 1, 2013)

Palladium the security light goes 
on for a few seconds then shuts off
But, if i countinue to try and start from
On position it flashes 3 to 5 times then
Goes off

Cnbarr. Not sure were my mechanic
Bought my fuel pump ,probaly not
Checkers

I didnt think this was important
But, i lost my key,striped wires as usual
Jumped on,aux,and starter(couldn't find
Fuel pump wire if it was seperate)
Forgot about passkey ,drilled out ignition
Broke ignition housing were magnet sends
Signal to computer so just bought a whole
New colum with everything even a key

Arced a few wires during the process .there
Was a point were the motor would stay running
With the addituon of starter fluid.
Thanks steyr223

Di you know were the iignition modual is
And how i would test it


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## Palladium (Mar 1, 2013)

Yeah your problem is going to probably be the security system locking your engine system down. Even though you got a new steering column with the proper key for that column the computer is still programmed to read the key code from the old ignition system. The key has a chip which is basically a resistor. I believe their was 14 different key codes but i'm not sure about that. Your options are to reprogram the computer control module to accept the new key code or you can go to a chevy dealership with your title and vin to get a key made. Well that won't work either. The key would be for the old ignition and still wouldn't work. They could read your old key code and make a copy of the new key from the new column and then program that blank i guess. Last one i got run about $60. Ace Hardware use to be able to read the codes and make them keys. I think i paid $20 there one time.


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## steyr223 (Mar 1, 2013)

I dont belive my key is coded but i could
Be wrong 
I was told the computer just sences the
Fact thar an actuall key is used 

The lock guy who came and looked said
It was just a magnetic sensor that eirher
Locked or released a contact untill the
Computer verified and after a few seconds
The eirher locked or released the same contact
To allow the motor to continue to run

I will call general cheverlet tommorow
And find out about the key and i will
Post a pic
Most of these guys dont want to give
Any info so i never know who to belive
But the lock guy this morning showed up
40 min after calling and didnt stutter when
Telling me about the magnit but he admited
To not being a mechanic

Thanks for the info i will post after talking
With them.
Steyr223.rob


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## butcher (Mar 1, 2013)

I have no clue about the lock systems on these new cars.

But if you have a magnet that is in your key that has to be a certain spot, you could have a reed relay there, or a Hall effect sensor, a magnet would trick it, if wires were broke the reed relay could be bypassed, as it is just a switch, normally open or normally closed. the hall effect sensor if that is what it is would be harder to trick but it could also be bypassed if you know what it needs or how it worked,
There could be several other ways for a security system to sense a certain key especially with today's electronics and circuits, I would first research the system they use, how it operated, then search for schematics hoping they gave enough information on wiring (down to component level on even the circuit boards would be best), and see if you can tell how Bypass the security circuit, or hot wire the system, any car can be hot-wired to run, some of the newer ones would just be more difficult to figure out.


If you shorted some wires you may also have damaged other components (or circuit boards) beside what is in the steering coulomb, hopefully at most you blew fuses.

This sounds like the fuel pump thing did. (I think your best bet is to get busy and refine more gold to pay the mechanic, before you have a need to refine more gold for more money from doing more damage to the wiring.
I am not saying you could not figure this out BUT...


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## Palladium (Mar 1, 2013)

:?: http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/0weak-1998-chevy-astro-van-idisconnected-battery-install.html


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## wrmahaff (Mar 1, 2013)

I'm not sure if your van has a VATS system in it or not, but this sound like a VATS situation.

GM used a resistor in the key. A sensor in the column measured the amount of ohms, and told the brain box if it was the correct amount or not. It's pretty easily beaten. You will need to take the ohms reading off the original key, not the key to the column that you have installed now.

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

This site, believe it or not, is the definitive site on beating a VAT/Passkey II system.


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## steyr223 (Mar 1, 2013)

Well thanks for all links guys 
this is awesome stuff my key
not have a chip in it and so far
None of the resets work

Hey butcher your usually so posative
And ...well posative (one of those
Critters up there didn't bite you i hope)
:lol: 
Just playing.
Actually this one i am doing by myself
And the steering columb is done and i
Added tilt 8) 
I dont have any more gold right now
Well except 7 lbs of pins that i have
Been clipping of the heads (probaly
End up with 1lb of doable stuff)

But i do have a customer that i helped
Start a business who became huge
Overnight that is now backing me financially
We are looking to invest so anyone
Feel free to contact me if you got some
Gold bearing material.

Anyways maybe the ignition modual
Got fry'd
Thanks steyr223 rob


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## cnbarr (Mar 1, 2013)

steyr223 said:


> Di you know were the iignition modual is
> And how i would test it



I'm not sure how you would test it, but the ignition switch is the little black box with about 10-12 wires coming out of it, that sits directly underneath the key tumbler.


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## steyr223 (Mar 1, 2013)

Cnbarr
I must be thinking of something else then
That was part of the harnesd i arced
But has been replaced with the steering
Columb

What controls the spark the thing is usually
Part or coincides with the distributor
And can be destroyed from electricity as
It is extremely sensitive
Thanks steyr223 rob


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## cnbarr (Mar 1, 2013)

Are you talking about the ignition coil, it puts the spark into the distributor?


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## butcher (Mar 1, 2013)

steyr223,
I can fix any thing, or I will just tear it up trying where no one could fix it, I have made my living doing this, and you can too, I did not mean to not sound positive, the information these guys are giving you may give you what you need to get the van run.
I would also look for the wiring diagrams and see what wiring and circuit boards are involved.

Do not let me deter you if you believe you can fix this then you can.

http://www.getbookee.org/wiring-diagrams-for-astro-van-alarm/


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## kelly (Mar 1, 2013)

Here's a link for instructions on testing the ignition control module...

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_icm_test/gm_icm_diagnostic_1.php


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## steyr223 (Mar 2, 2013)

Right on 
Butcher goodlink i have a passkey II
Anti theft system.
Thanks kelly and palladium and cnbarr
So the one link on how to beat it. Is right
I checked it out unfortunarlly when
The voltage was checked on the sensor
It did not drop enough when the key was
Turned (12-13 down to 3 or so )i got
8 
This led me to believe since no resistance
In new ignition(lower voltage) that there
Must not be a sensor in the tumbler
Housing
Took off the plasic around ignition
Yep no 3 wires coming out on top

They lied about the year of the sterring
Columb

Once i get the right one i will have to
Cut thr wires and install 1 or more resistors
Thanks steyr223 rob


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## steyr223 (Mar 2, 2013)

Ok i grabed another harness from
Junk yard this one has the magnetic
Sensor in the tunbler housing and the
3 wires that go to the plug end of the
Harness(were it plugs into the truck)

Now im looking at my wrong steering
Columb harness and now that i see
Where those 3 wires go and i now
Know the truck is asking for a certain
Resistance from those 3 wires
Cant i just loop a resister between 2 of
Those 3 wires right on my wrong harness
Were they would go on the right harness

Now i would still have no magnet in my
Tumbler housing but this should bypass
That right

Sorry if this doesnt make sense
Steyr223 rob


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## steyr223 (Mar 3, 2013)

It works
I did not need to loop in a resistor
I took the tubler and housing
With the middle part of the main
Harness that i got today at the junk
Yard and attatched it to my dash so
As to have 2 ignitions i pluged it in
With the 2 out parts of the harness
When i trief tp start it didnt but
Now the security started to
blink, so i tried the 10 min reset/ relearn
procedure and
It started.
So now i just have to leave the
Regular ignition on for the 
Steering lock and start it with
The other
This tells me that all passkey
2 sensors have the same value 
and you do not need a key but do 
need to turn the tumbler

Again thanks everyone you guys are 
awesome i could not
Have done this with out your
Help
Steyr223 rob


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## butcher (Mar 3, 2013)

Now the only problem is you did not take my advice earlier and get busy refining that gold to pay the mechanic who fixed your truck. :lol:
Good job Oh well you can still refine some and pay your self any way.


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