# precipitation



## Anonymous (Aug 20, 2009)

hello all,

for the first time I processed white gold. I precipitated it with sodium metabisulfite. The mud looked like the nickel dropped as well. Did I use the wrong precipitant? If so so what is the best.
Thanks!!

Dave


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## Palladium (Aug 20, 2009)

davidmcdaniels said:


> hello all,
> 
> for the first time I processed white gold. I precipitated it with sodium metabisulfite. The mud looked like the nickel dropped as well. Did I use the wrong precipitant? If so so what is the best.
> Thanks!!
> ...



Tell us a little more about what you had and what you did to get to that point Dave. You could re dissolve the gold and re precipitate it from a cleaner solution then do your acid washes to remove any metals that might remain and you should be good to go. If you have a lot of trash in you solution when you drop the gold it will drag down some of it with the gold. That's why it's best to remove as much base metals as possible before you digest the remaining gold for precipitation with SMB.

Steve has a saying: Garbage in ------- Garbage out.
Refining is nothing more than the separation of metals. The least you have to deal with the better. 

Here is the greatest wisdom that i can give you and it comes from Harold. This was a fine piece of work. 



Getting pure gold (shining) (Acid Wash) :arrow: http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=325&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

This process is used to do your final wash to remove any impurities (Trash) that you may have carried over from your precipitation. This is one of the most important things you will learn in gold refining. Learn it and live it.

There are NO shortcuts. If you want pure gold, you MUST follow accepted practice. Remember, those that went before us have gone through this time and again----and have perfected a process that will yield good quality------so if you're interested in achieving that level, follow instructions that are at your disposal. Don't experiment-----leave that for others with time on their hands that are content to re-invent the wheel. This is particularly important for you, considering you're trying to establish a refining service. 

Depending on what you're starting with, you may have a hard time achieving a good level of purity the first time through. That's to be expected. Part of the problem is mechanical drag-down, where you're working with very heavily contaminated solutions, part of which follow the gold. They're not always easy to wash out, even when boiling with HCL. 

My advice to you is this: 

Process your gold the first time, using conventional means. Allow as little in the way of contaminations (metals) as is humanely possible, to be included with the gold. Use only clean vessels. Wash them well between operations-----and use BonAmi cleanser if necessary to remove stubborn stains. Do not use other cleansers, for they scratch the glass. Filter before precipitating, and insure that the filter does not allow particulate matter to pass. If it does, re-filter, or go to a better filter grade. A Whatman #2 does an outstanding job for first refined metals, although they are not cheap. I used them exclusively for filtering first run gold chloride. I felt they were worth the extra money. At all times, keep your beaker covered with a watch glass of appropriate size, to prevent contamination from other sources. 

Precipitate your gold using conventional methods, collect it and wash it well. It's best to use a precipitant that does not add contamination. I preferred SO2, but there are others that work equally as well, I'm sure. 

First wash should be in boiling HCL and tap water. Boil for a prolonged period of time. Take up the solution with tap water, decant after the gold has settled, then rinse with tap water, which should again be brought to a boil. After it has boiled for a period of time, add more tap water to cool the lot, then decant as before. Rinse again, and do it until the wash water comes off clear. Next, wash the gold with ammonium hydroxide and tap water. Heat it until it boils. You'll notice that the solution gets discolored. How much is determined by how dirty your gold was when you started. The ammonia evaporates fairly quickly, so you can't boil very long. Add tap water to cool, decant, and follow up with a tap water rinse, again, boiling the water. Add tap water to cool, then decant. You now repeat the HCL and tap water wash. You'll be amazed that suddenly more contaminants will come off. Boil well, add water to cool, decant, repeat the water rinse, decant, then, and this is important-------start the refining process all over again by dissolving the well washed gold powder in aqua regia. I'll talk about that in a minute, but these are indicators you should have observed along the way, aside from the fact that you could see contaminants being washed from your gold powder. 

The gold powder, which started out quite dark, is now much lighter in color. 

It may have been rather loose and flocculent, but now is eager to agglomerate, so it forms lumps and settles quickly. 

While these instructions sound like a lot of wasted time, when you process what you think is pure gold, you'll see evidence in the remaining solutions that it was not. The evidence of which I speak will be in your solution when you've extracted the gold for a second time. It's a lot of work which is why I re-refined my gold in large lots, often as much as 200 ounces at each refining, so the time spent yielded a large return. 




When you precipitate for a second time, one of the things that you can do to help eliminate unwanted elements is to use a different precipitant than the first time. I never bothered with that, but it's good advice if you're fighting with a given contaminant and can't get rid of it by other means. That was never a problem for me. 

Wash the gold powder the second refining by the same methods and sequences as the first refining. Make sure all your equipment is scrupulously clean. Force dry the gold when it's washed by heating the beaker at a very low heat for a long period of time. Avoid allowing the beaker to achieve boiling temperature---you get minor steam explosions that blow gold out of the container. As the gold dries, it's a good idea to swish it around the beaker occasionally, which prevents the gold from bonding to the beaker. The residual matter in water tends to form around the gold and bond it to the beaker. While it's a contaminant of sorts, it does NOT alloy with your gold, so it is not a source of lowering the fineness unless you have strange elements in your water. For me, it was not a problem. 

Once dry, you can then melt your gold. A clean, never used for anything but pure gold, dish can be used. It should be covered with a coating of borax, but nothing else. DO NOT USE ANY SODA ASH. If there are any oxides present, they'll be reduced and absorbed by the molten gold instead of locked in the flux. 

Your torch should be cleaned of loose crud before melting your gold. Run fine abrasive cloth over it until it's very clean, then wipe it down with a damp cloth to remove any traces of dust. Think clean every inch of the operation-----otherwise you undo all the hard work you've done getting your gold pure. 

Your other option is to operate a small gold cell, but you must have several ounces of pure gold for the electrolyte.. That is likely not a viable choice for you at this point in time. 

Harold


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## greentea (Aug 20, 2009)

Maybe it was some of the rhodium plating that is usually found on white gold? I usually get a lot of white foils and a very fine white/silver colored powder when I do WG.


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