# Need help turning sterling into 99.9 fine silver



## love4boost

Hi guys, new to the forum and was wondering if someone would mind helping me out? Im in the precious metal business and while gold is 80% of my business I still manage to get 300-400 ounces of 90%/925 a week, mostly either pre 64 coins or sterling jewelry and or flatware.. For the last 2 years I have been slowly investing in silver weekly, mainly buying 1 ounce eagles, maples, engelhard bars ext.. Of course occasionally ill get 30-40 coins at a shot for $5+ under spot, but most of the time im getting my scrap silver real cheap and paying huge premiums for the coins I want from other dealers... Recently I've come up with the idea of taking the scrap sterling I get, grabbing my own stamping and 20 ounce molding and making 20 ounce bars... 

My business consists of mainly going around once a week to 10-12 shops, pawnshops, antique shops and jewelry stores, buying there scrap and then head down to NYC once a week, where my refiner will throw the jewelry into a machine melting it, drill it, get an accurate purity from a special computer and then im paid based off that number... This being said, i am not very firmilar with the steps needed to refine my silver. 

If anyone could give me a "rundown for dummies" on how to turn sterling into 999 silver I would GREATLY apprechiate it.

Sorry for the huge post


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## butcher

One way is to remove most of the copper and base metals by dissolving it in nitric acid and water,forming a copper and silver nitrate solution, the silver is cemented out of the solution using copper metal to replace the silver from solution, the silver cement is washed, dried and melted into bars or anode's and refined in an electrolytic cell called a silver cell.

There are a few other methods but this is the most popular, The best place to get more information, would be reading through the silver section of the forum.
Then also the safety section and learning of the dangers involved, and how to treat the toxic waste you would be generating.


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## love4boost

so i found a link that is almost exactly what i was looking for.. 

http://www.abovetopsecret.com/forum/thread810904/pg1

The only thing left that id need help with is forming the casting balls into a 20 ounce bar... How do I do this, keep making balls and then put them into the 20 ounce mold and melt them again and just keep adding and melting until ive filled the mold?

heres the mold im gonna grab.. ill probably also buy a large crucible and not a potatoe like the guys post lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-oz-Troy-Ounce-Silver-Kit-Kat-Graphite-Ingot-Mold-Casting-Melting-Refining-/321091811289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac29037d9


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## Claudie

I think you better do some more research here on the forum before following that method. Those red fumes are deadly and the cheap disposable gloves might be okay to use if you're tossing a salad, I wouldn't trust them to protect me from Nitric acid. Refining precious metals with chemicals is not something that anyone with internet access should take on without knowing what they are dealing with. Even melting the Silver, Gold, or whatever has it's dangers if not done properly. Sometimes a steam explosion will toss your Gold all over the work place and possibly even you. Melting Silver can cause a vapor that is not something you want in your face. I am not trying to discourage you from your goal, I am just trying to convince you to learn more before taking something on that may cost you a lot more than it will make you.


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## love4boost

Claudie said:


> I think you better do some more research here on the forum before following that method. Those red fumes are deadly and the cheap disposable gloves might be okay to use if you're tossing a salad, I wouldn't trust them to protect me from Nitric acid. Refining precious metals with chemicals is not something that anyone with internet access should take on without knowing what they are dealing with. Even melting the Silver, Gold, or whatever has it's dangers if not done properly. Sometimes a steam explosion will toss your Gold all over the work place and possibly even you. Melting Silver can cause a vapor that is not something you want in your face. I am not trying to discourage you from your goal, I am just trying to convince you to learn more before taking something on that may cost you a lot more than it will make you.




i hear you and in all honesty, the guy that made that post is a moron and i dont plan to follow his guidelines to the T lol... For one I will be using a 20 oz platinum crucible (plat will last alot longer) much thicker gloves, a mask, my station will be near a window and a fan will be blowing the vapor right out the window and never close to me, even with the mask on... im very safe and cautious, just need help with the actual procedure.


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## element47.5

IMO, the better way to do this is to trade your sterling to scrapman1077 and get back nice new rounds with no chemicals and no fuss. A good number of forum members, myself included, have traded sterling to Jay (me: 4 separate lots, probably 250 oz total) and the reports have been excellent. I've always gotten back rounds in roughly a week. No problems. 

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=151215#p151215

Especially if you are chemically unequipped (which means the location where you might carry out a .925 > .999 conversion; the glassware, the safety gear, the chemicals, the melting and casting, the fumes, and dealing with the waste) and are dealing in lots around 100 oz or under. Do your own math on the conversion, and yes, there's a $1 / round "coining charge" that is tough to get around any time you deal with these metals. If it were me I would not change the junk silver coins at all. They are perfectly tradable as they are. It's important to realize that junk silver coins are "self-assaying" whereas any bars you pour would not be. I realize Jay does not offer larger-sized bars and maybe this (10/100 oz bars) are the form factor you would prefer. I would imagine the same people who bring you silver might very well have bars they would trade, ounce for ounce, or, a local coin dealer may wish to make the same kind of trade.


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## squarecoinman

love4boost said:


> Hi guys, new to the forum and was wondering if someone would mind helping me out? Im in the precious metal business and while gold is 80% of my business I still manage to get 300-400 ounces of 90%/925 a week, mostly either pre 64 coins or sterling jewelry and or flatware.. For the last 2 years I have been slowly investing in silver weekly, mainly buying 1 ounce eagles, maples, engelhard bars ext.. Of course occasionally ill get 30-40 coins at a shot for $5+ under spot, but most of the time im getting my scrap silver real cheap and paying huge premiums for the coins I want from other dealers... Recently I've come up with the idea of taking the scrap sterling I get, grabbing my own stamping and 20 ounce molding and making 20 ounce bars...
> 
> My business consists of mainly going around once a week to 10-12 shops, pawnshops, antique shops and jewelry stores, buying there scrap and then head down to NYC once a week, where my refiner will throw the jewelry into a machine melting it, drill it, get an accurate purity from a special computer and then im paid based off that number... This being said, i am not very firmilar with the steps needed to refine my silver.
> 
> If anyone could give me a "rundown for dummies" on how to turn sterling into 999 silver I would GREATLY apprechiate it.
> 
> Sorry for the huge post



Dear Love4boost 

Your post is not huge , in fact it is missing a few things 

we have no idea why you want to make 20 ounce bars and because of that there are many potential answers 
1 you want to do this to make more profit , well then forget about it. your silver coins are known and easy to trade. I can look up the coin in a book or online and know how much silver is in the coin. I have no idea how much silver there is in your bar , so one would need a assay ( and they cost money )
2 you think it is fun to make bars , well if you do not care about the cost , then read Hoke ( a book ) learn all about safety , and no an open window is not good enough , buy safety equipment and buy a hood ( you are working with big amounts ) buy a oven and take a course of how to melt silver on large scale 
3 you want to invest in silver, keep the coins, sell your junk to the refiner in NY and use the money to buy engelhard bars, etc do look for a new refiner as some may be willing to pay you in silver bars and rounds ( still only take the ones that are known ) 

scm


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## love4boost

element47.5 said:


> IMO, the better way to do this is to trade your sterling to scrapman1077 and get back nice new rounds with no chemicals and no fuss. A good number of forum members, myself included, have traded sterling to Jay (me: 4 separate lots, probably 250 oz total) and the reports have been excellent. I've always gotten back rounds in roughly a week. No problems.
> 
> http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=151215#p151215
> 
> Especially if you are chemically unequipped (which means the location where you might carry out a .925 > .999 conversion; the glassware, the safety gear, the chemicals, the melting and casting, the fumes, and dealing with the waste) and are dealing in lots around 100 oz or under. Do your own math on the conversion, and yes, there's a $1 / round "coining charge" that is tough to get around any time you deal with these metals. If it were me I would not change the junk silver coins at all. They are perfectly tradable as they are. It's important to realize that junk silver coins are "self-assaying" whereas any bars you pour would not be. I realize Jay does not offer larger-sized bars and maybe this (10/100 oz bars) are the form factor you would prefer. I would imagine the same people who bring you silver might very well have bars they would trade, ounce for ounce, or, a local coin dealer may wish to make the same kind of trade.




That would be nice, but I am almost certain scrapman will want DOLLARS over spot and value my sterling at less then spot which in the end over time will be un beneficial.. I can get 1 ounce rounds anywhere for $3 over spot, but I just dont have it in me to pay those premiums when im buying $1,000 a week worth. As stated, I am a novice at this and wont physically start until I have everything covered


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## love4boost

squarecoinman said:


> love4boost said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, new to the forum and was wondering if someone would mind helping me out? Im in the precious metal business and while gold is 80% of my business I still manage to get 300-400 ounces of 90%/925 a week, mostly either pre 64 coins or sterling jewelry and or flatware.. For the last 2 years I have been slowly investing in silver weekly, mainly buying 1 ounce eagles, maples, engelhard bars ext.. Of course occasionally ill get 30-40 coins at a shot for $5+ under spot, but most of the time im getting my scrap silver real cheap and paying huge premiums for the coins I want from other dealers... Recently I've come up with the idea of taking the scrap sterling I get, grabbing my own stamping and 20 ounce molding and making 20 ounce bars...
> 
> My business consists of mainly going around once a week to 10-12 shops, pawnshops, antique shops and jewelry stores, buying there scrap and then head down to NYC once a week, where my refiner will throw the jewelry into a machine melting it, drill it, get an accurate purity from a special computer and then im paid based off that number... This being said, i am not very firmilar with the steps needed to refine my silver.
> 
> If anyone could give me a "rundown for dummies" on how to turn sterling into 999 silver I would GREATLY apprechiate it.
> 
> Sorry for the huge post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Love4boost
> 
> Your post is not huge , in fact it is missing a few things
> 
> we have no idea why you want to make 20 ounce bars and because of that there are many potential answers
> 1 you want to do this to make more profit , well then forget about it. your silver coins are known and easy to trade. I can look up the coin in a book or online and know how much silver is in the coin. I have no idea how much silver there is in your bar , so one would need a assay ( and they cost money )
> 2 you think it is fun to make bars , well if you do not care about the cost , then read Hoke ( a book ) learn all about safety , and no an open window is not good enough , buy safety equipment and buy a hood ( you are working with big amounts ) buy a oven and take a course of how to melt silver on large scale
> 3 you want to invest in silver, keep the coins, sell your junk to the refiner in NY and use the money to buy engelhard bars, etc do look for a new refiner as some may be willing to pay you in silver bars and rounds ( still only take the ones that are known )
> 
> scm
Click to expand...


My business consist of my store which includes walk in customers and then dealers which i go out to once a week.. The store is where I get the steals, 1 ounce eagles for $50+ UNDER spot, 100+ ounces of pre 64 coins for $70% or less and flatware for around the same.. 1 day a week I go around to dealers where I pay 92% un melted for there gold and 80-82% for there silver.. Usually I will get paid 92% UN-melted for sterling and 99% of gold melted.

I believe 5-10 years from now silver will be at record high prices, $75+ an ounce, thats just me so I've been taking a small amount of my weekly income and have been investing in silver. I will still continue to buy bullion through my store, but instead of paying crazy premiums at shops, id like to start making my own 20 ounce bars and holding onto them.. I can fetch spot for ANY kind of bullion no matter what it is which is the goal, to have silver that is liquid if need be... Refiners and anyone else still wants a big premium even if I already do business with them.. Im not just buying an ounce here and there, im talking 40+ ounces a week im trying to save.. over 2 years its added up and i continue to collect for another 4-5+ years.

I apprechiate your concern and youve halfway open my eyes that I need to plan more thourough, but it is probably the best solution for me, unless you know a place i can get an unlimited supply of .999 coins/bullion... I dont need a huge operation, just something small that i can make 2 bars a week.. I've already purchased most of the supplies, 2 large glass beakers, a 20 ounce bar mold, a stamper thats getting custom engraved "999+ fine silver 20 Troy oz" a 25 ounce crucible with a handle to pour, some borax, some nitric acid and I've already got some thick industrial gloves, a torch and filters.. I think i actually also have a hood range from an old oven I took out of a house lol.. Might even do it in my garage outside.


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## squarecoinman

My business consist of my store which includes walk in customers and then dealers which i go out to once a week.. The store is where I get the steals, 1 ounce eagles for $50+ UNDER spot, 100+ ounces of pre 64 coins for $70% or less and flatware for around the same.. 1 day a week I go around to dealers where I pay 92% un melted for there gold and 80-82% for there silver.. Usually I will get paid 92% UN-melted for sterling and 99% of gold melted.

I believe 5-10 years from now silver will be at record high prices, $75+ an ounce, thats just me so I've been taking a small amount of my weekly income and have been investing in silver. I will still continue to buy bullion through my store, but instead of paying crazy premiums at shops, id like to start making my own 20 ounce bars and holding onto them.. I can fetch spot for ANY kind of bullion no matter what it is which is the goal, to have silver that is liquid if need be... Refiners and anyone else still wants a big premium even if I already do business with them.. Im not just buying an ounce here and there, im talking 40+ ounces a week im trying to save.. over 2 years its added up and i continue to collect for another 4-5+ years.

I apprechiate your concern and youve halfway open my eyes that I need to plan more thourough, but it is probably the best solution for me, unless you know a place i can get an unlimited supply of .999 coins/bullion... I dont need a huge operation, just something small that i can make 2 bars a week.. I've already purchased most of the supplies, 2 large glass beakers, a 20 ounce bar mold, a stamper thats getting custom engraved "999+ fine silver 20 Troy oz" a 25 ounce crucible with a handle to pour, some borax, some nitric acid and I've already got some thick industrial gloves, a torch and filters.. I think i actually also have a hood range from an old oven I took out of a house lol.. Might even do it in my garage outside.[/quote]

Thanks for your answer at least we have a better idea, why you want to do this. 
I would recommend the following to you 
1 read Hoke, it will give you a very good understanding of the situation you are going to be in.
2 do a test run with 3 or 4 coins, in nitric acid ( outside in your garage , with full protection, I can see you have gloves, but nitric in your eyes can blind you and that would be bad for business. When the coins are dissolved cement them out with copper ( read Hoke how to ) make a stock pot for your waste and find a place where you can get rid of your waste the correct way. 
3 to melt 20 oz of silver you will need a pretty good torch and it will take a lot of gas, a oven would be better but you can give it a try with the torch, again remember to shield your self and have all the protection needed, a blowout of melted silver will serious damage you and it only take a drop of water in your crucible to get a pretty big blowout. ( after you did your test with the 3 or 4 coins, melt the cemented silver, before going big)
4 In Denmark where I live, it would be illegal to stamp the silver with 999+ if there would not be another stamp with my company name and I would have to register what I would stamp ( the fact that I have such stamps means that every now and then people will come and check the carat of my gold and also the grade of my silver. ) If they would find anything that is slightly less then what I stamp I would have a big problem) I know that they are more relaxed in the US, but I would still look in to the legal side of putting a stamp on anything.

If you read and do search on the forum, you will see there are lots of people that say they did read hoke, and did think about safety , but you will see people that show pictures from the kitchen, and from the question it is clear they did not read Hoke. Those are the people that most likely start the post with I need a little help.

Now several members have given some advice and I am sure you can get a lot more if needed, but the best thing to do is Read Hoke, and take the guided tour, spend some extra time on safety. 

scm


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## love4boost

squarecoinman said:


> My business consist of my store which includes walk in customers and then dealers which i go out to once a week.. The store is where I get the steals, 1 ounce eagles for $50+ UNDER spot, 100+ ounces of pre 64 coins for $70% or less and flatware for around the same.. 1 day a week I go around to dealers where I pay 92% un melted for there gold and 80-82% for there silver.. Usually I will get paid 92% UN-melted for sterling and 99% of gold melted.
> 
> I believe 5-10 years from now silver will be at record high prices, $75+ an ounce, thats just me so I've been taking a small amount of my weekly income and have been investing in silver. I will still continue to buy bullion through my store, but instead of paying crazy premiums at shops, id like to start making my own 20 ounce bars and holding onto them.. I can fetch spot for ANY kind of bullion no matter what it is which is the goal, to have silver that is liquid if need be... Refiners and anyone else still wants a big premium even if I already do business with them.. Im not just buying an ounce here and there, im talking 40+ ounces a week im trying to save.. over 2 years its added up and i continue to collect for another 4-5+ years.
> 
> I apprechiate your concern and youve halfway open my eyes that I need to plan more thourough, but it is probably the best solution for me, unless you know a place i can get an unlimited supply of .999 coins/bullion... I dont need a huge operation, just something small that i can make 2 bars a week.. I've already purchased most of the supplies, 2 large glass beakers, a 20 ounce bar mold, a stamper thats getting custom engraved "999+ fine silver 20 Troy oz" a 25 ounce crucible with a handle to pour, some borax, some nitric acid and I've already got some thick industrial gloves, a torch and filters.. I think i actually also have a hood range from an old oven I took out of a house lol.. Might even do it in my garage outside.



Thanks for your answer at least we have a better idea, why you want to do this. 
I would recommend the following to you 
1 read Hoke, it will give you a very good understanding of the situation you are going to be in.
2 do a test run with 3 or 4 coins, in nitric acid ( outside in your garage , with full protection, I can see you have gloves, but nitric in your eyes can blind you and that would be bad for business. When the coins are dissolved cement them out with copper ( read Hoke how to ) make a stock pot for your waste and find a place where you can get rid of your waste the correct way. 
3 to melt 20 oz of silver you will need a pretty good torch and it will take a lot of gas, a oven would be better but you can give it a try with the torch, again remember to shield your self and have all the protection needed, a blowout of melted silver will serious damage you and it only take a drop of water in your crucible to get a pretty big blowout. ( after you did your test with the 3 or 4 coins, melt the cemented silver, before going big)
4 In Denmark where I live, it would be illegal to stamp the silver with 999+ if there would not be another stamp with my company name and I would have to register what I would stamp ( the fact that I have such stamps means that every now and then people will come and check the carat of my gold and also the grade of my silver. ) If they would find anything that is slightly less then what I stamp I would have a big problem) I know that they are more relaxed in the US, but I would still look in to the legal side of putting a stamp on anything.

If you read and do search on the forum, you will see there are lots of people that say they did read hoke, and did think about safety , but you will see people that show pictures from the kitchen, and from the question it is clear they did not read Hoke. Those are the people that most likely start the post with I need a little help.

Now several members have given some advice and I am sure you can get a lot more if needed, but the best thing to do is Read Hoke, and take the guided tour, spend some extra time on safety. 

scm[/quote]


I apprechiate your time responding back to me, I have 1 quick question about your process... After i filter the nitric into a beaker and am left with the raw powder, you said to then melt it.. I've heard two ways of doing it... #1 put a cup onto a scale and tare it, then put the amount of the bar i wanna make (20oz) in POWDER form into the cup.. add a little more then 20oz, how much more im not sure? for melt loss... Put the 20 and change ounces into crucible and melt.. when done melting, pour into mold...

#2 - like you said, melt the powder, drop it into cold water creating pure .999 silver shot.. Then take the shot and weigh up 20 ounces. Once weighed, throw it in a crucible, re-melt it and pour it in your mold..

Which way is the best?? If I melt the powder into shot, when i RE melt, will i get melt loss again??


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## squarecoinman

My Advice was read Hoke , the rest is not that important , read hoke first ( there you can read what to do with your cemented silver , ( washing etc etc ) 
when i wrote my answer I assumed you would read all of it and take it serious, safety and the process has to be done right. 

when you read Hoke and read about safety I will be happy to explain the melting process 

but before we get there, I would like to see you study and do a small test , 20 OZ is not a small test it is a big test , so please read , study and do a small test 
dissolve 3 coins of no numismatic value, in nitric acid , ( read Hoke what to do with the cemented silver, do all that, then when you have done that, take a photo 
and show your result. Then do a test melt under the correct conditions and when all that is done , ask about how much melting loss you can expect by melting shots and by melting 20 OZ with a torch. 

ps I never suggested to make shots and remelt them.

scm


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## love4boost

squarecoinman said:


> My Advice was read Hoke , the rest is not that important , read hoke first ( there you can read what to do with your cemented silver , ( washing etc etc )
> when i wrote my answer I assumed you would read all of it and take it serious, safety and the process has to be done right.
> 
> when you read Hoke and read about safety I will be happy to explain the melting process
> 
> but before we get there, I would like to see you study and do a small test , 20 OZ is not a small test it is a big test , so please read , study and do a small test
> dissolve 3 coins of no numismatic value, in nitric acid , ( read Hoke what to do with the cemented silver, do all that, then when you have done that, take a photo
> and show your result. Then do a test melt under the correct conditions and when all that is done , ask about how much melting loss you can expect by melting shots and by melting 20 OZ with a torch.
> 
> ps I never suggested to make shots and remelt them.
> 
> scm


nvm


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## Claudie

This is where many people make their first mistake, they don't use one of the best tools they already have, patience. A person cannot successfully refine Silver without learning how to do it first, some people try and some people lose more than their Silver in the process. Once you do learn the right way to do it, and have successfully made your first bar, you will better understand what everyone is trying to say. The Silver won't go anywhere while you take time to read and learn. Use patience, you will be glad you did in the end. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum and members are willing to share what they know to help you. Take the advice you have been given, learn what you need to know, and ask questions when you don't understand something. When you are ready to try it out, let others help you along the way, post pictures, and make some nice Silver bars. :lol:


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## mikeinkaty

Have you thought about just pouring sterling bars? If the price of silver goes up, the price of sterling will follow. While stockpiling sterling bars you can acquire the refining skills to turn them into 99.9 silver bars, IF that will allow you to make more profit. Or, just cut the sterling into small pieces and stockpile it that way.

I don't think I would want to try pouring 20oz bars with a torch though. I would want a fairly good furnace for that.


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## goldsilverpro

If it were me, I think you would be money ahead selling the coins separately, as is, and melt the sterling into bars and sell it based on assay. You should be able to get 95%, or more, that way, if you shop around. I don't feel that 300-400 oz/week is enough to go through the learning curve and to purchase the equipment needed to purify it.


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## 4metals

I agree with GSP, you're a buyer, you can get favorable pricing for your sterling and get fine silver bars in return. A stamped recognized bar that sells for a fixed rate under spot when you are ready to sell (when silver gets to $75) is a hassle free way to sell, a melted sterling bar requires an assay or an acid test and then the buyer will round down anyway. There are plenty of guys who will give you fine bars or rounds back in settlement. 

Now reading Hoke is still good advice, but setting up and dealing with all you will have to deal with, waste, fumes, testing, etc. is a bit much for the quantity. But read Hoke so you know what you're talking about when it comes to refining. Makes for interesting bar-room conversation!


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## love4boost

in patient would be melting silver by now which i am not lol... I am reading reading and doing more reading along with watching several videos of other peoples home set ups. Morgans and what not I resell, regular pre 64 dimes and quarters dont really fetch a huge premium so alot of the time ill melt them. I would much rather have pure silver bars instead of 925 bars as i know for a fact in my area i can get spot at any given moment in cash. I make alot of money on alot of the sterling that i get during the week, to do trail and error as someone earlier stated with a small amount is worth the loss to me to gain the knowledge.. Only place i found hoke is on ebay and the seller wants $300 lol... Call me stupid, but I'll loose $300 in silver before I spent $300 on a book :/... I apprechiate everyones response in this thread, even those advising against it, but I was hoping for someone here to give me step by step directions, kind of like the link i posted earlier in the thread, in a more professional way instead of using a damn potatoe to melt lol...


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## jimdoc

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=16555#p167229


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## Claudie

Here is a copy of Hoke for FREE!
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=16882&p=170803&hilit=storing+AP#p170803

and here is another on that you can print, it's FREE TOO!
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=17706


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## element47.5

The information you're looking for is indeed on this forum. Look for some posts by kadriver for info about processing sterling. 

I'm going to go ahead and opine that you are underestimating the potential dangers of N02, the red/brown gas given off by the reaction of nitric acid with silver (and copper) 
In my Merck manual, it is listed as twice as toxic as Hydrogen Cyanide. In addition, the presence of even trace amounts of those fumes will corrode the daylights out of virtually anything metal in the same room. A good whiff can kill you or permanently damage your lungs very, very easily, and it won't say "I'm sorry".


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## kjt124

I've seen a lot of guys on here argue against torch melting silver in larger amounts for a variety of reasons (especially volatility). What is the realistic limit on batch sizes for torch melting silver? It seems unrealistic to be torching 20 ounce batches, but perhaps I am wrong.

Also, wouldn't a platinum crucible be the wrong vessel for melting silver?

I understand that these questions are somewhat academic in regards to this thread, being that it really doesn't seem like love4boost wants to hear safe and correct advice, but not withstanding the issues that have already been raised, those were the two that stuck in my head a bit.

Thanks,
Kevin


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