What to do with large amount of milspec gold plated electronic components.

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Pyerate

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2023
Messages
8
Location
Washington State
Hey all,
I've been going through these forums for over a year and a half, became full member after I learned a lot. Now, it's time for my first post/topic of question.

After years of collecting (my eye is always on the look out for a deal) I've had friends accuse me of back dooring stuff. My job is not worth that at all, I make way too much to risk that by doing something like stealing a few transistors. Not that any of you would suggest that. I have never stolen anything. You earn more when you work more is how I've been raised. Closest though is when I have taken stuff out of the garbage, but bartering is my butter. Being a reliable electrician gets you a lot more open offers.
Ok
For over a decade I've hoarded electronics of all types knowing that one day I would have enough time to start studying the chemistry and processes for refining precious metals. 2 years ago the time finally came. First I started by buying the books and reading forums. I eventually bit the bullet and went all in on glassware, practicing in my porch and garage using numerous different processes to get a more thorough understanding and grasp of what worked best in my situation. Over A year ago I began building a full-fledged laboratory in my 20x30 steel building after I ran power out to it. Since then I now have marble slab countertops, full hazmat lockers, acid resistance coating on the walls and floor, a decent fume Hood with 2 charcoal filter tanks, two sinks with running water of which both drain into independent storage tanks for future treating of the wastewater properly. I even built a water reclamation setup that allowed me to be completely self-contained and reuse my water after neutralizing, filtering boiling and condensing, and a final reverse osmosis that goes into clean storage tank. After purchasing 2 larger used tanks, the 2 old 500 & 700 gl tanks now collect rain water. Best part is that 75-90% of everything making up my lab/shop, besides glassware & consumables, was all reclaimed, built, repaired, salvaged, and or repurposed in some way from all over the PNW, which saved me quite a bit of money.

1yr to 6 months ago came the big push. First I broke up the single space of the 20x30 building into three independent rooms, a walkway & even have stand up room for storage, and all utilities on top of the 15' high ceiling.each room having a dedicated purpose. As an electrician I was very cheap to higher, this allowed me to fork out more for high quality upgrades on all the power and doubled my air flow. I'm now almost, but not quite at negative pressure throughout the 2 rooms. I even Put in a urinal that goes into its own drain field. Since one room has very loud woodworking equipment I fully insulated and sound dampened every wall, ceiling, and the steel skin of the building. It's allowed me to install a very nice sound system as well. I even figured repurposing my old wood burning fireplace. With the high air flow it's allows very good transfer of the heat without need of excessive duct work or extra blowers. I was very lucky and managed to acquire two 2500 gallon poly water tanks that were 5 years old for 1500$, one for fresh and one now for waste. And then the final coup de gras, I had 16, 350 watt panels placed on the roof. Bringing a total of 51 panels on my property. I am almost making 14kw (says my sense all).This finally completed my goal for a fully self-contained/self-sufficient green lab & wood shop. Since I have not been able to afford a battery bank yet I have to switch the main panel back on during nights, all extra goes back into the grid and reflects on my bill. I now rather be in my shop then anywhere else, and sometimes even sleep in my hammock instead of in the house LOL. I'm single so it don't matter, I have no one to upset

Now that everything is up and operational, and I have learned and lost quite a bit along the way, I still find myself lost at a certain decision. While I have never fully wasted out any of my material, as I have picked up new tips and tricks and have been able to recover more, using less, and more easily as time progressed. I will restart my solutions from scratch by reintroducing everything I have extracted. That means that I still am working with and recombining agents that I started with 2 years ago LOL. I have at least 7 55gl barrels full of concentrated solutions in a shed outside. Not counting all of the side experiments I have going on, and random containers of all sizes including a 35 gallon fish tank that I use for reverse plating. Labeling EVERYTHING in detail is the key. It was a hard lesson learned.

Sorry, my ADHD kicked in and I sidetracked.

I have found that the one thing I seem to be able to acquire the most of is gold (& silver) plated pins, especially those of military spec. Currently I have over 200 kilos of untouched, mostly military spec pins, mainly full & partial plated gold with a good amount of silver plated. The one thing I can't get myself into stripping is all of the other components I have that are gold-plated or filled.
Prior military service & then an aircraft electrician, now a marine electrician,I have come up with a plethora of full plated diodes of all types, transistors, relays, chips of all types, even full gold solder boards ETC. The problem that i have is everywhere I read says you can get more by selling it, especially if it works, but then they go ahead & strip it anyways. I looked up some of the items I have and I have seen upwards of $400 for a single transistor! Now those are still in original packaging and brand new, well from the 60s new. A majority of the stuff I have is also brand new, but not in packaging.

Is it worth continuing to collect all this and sell it as bulk wholesale?

Should I independently break up each component type into groups and sell them as sets or solo?

Where would I even start and how would I know how much to get or ask for? Prices vary so much sometimes.

I swear I have so many types and just by looking at prices for a handful of them, if I keep up the way I'm going I could pay off my house in another couple years, solely from selling those parts off independently (if all the stars are aligned perfectly). I am a methodical thinker though and I know that something is only worth as much as there is a need and a want for such part, like art. This is my problem and I remain vexed on what to do. So, I instead just keep filling up plastic organizer boxes and stacking them in the corner. I am quickly running out of space and have become very creative when it comes to making more space. But you can only squeeze so much blood out of an orange. I don't know the first thing about selling anything, as all I've ever done is acquire. And that goes for anything. I don't sell, I give away, barter, trade but have never sold. I've seen so many different inputs from people but it seems that no two can agree and when it comes to a best served place for resale, cliental to look out for, or how long it should be kept on the market, I've seen anything from the week on upwards to forever. Just posted on eBay and every other resale site and forget about it, to even hiring somebody to do the work for me but no one has ever provided me I reputable person or company that would do that.
Until I can get these questions answered and figured out I've mostly been working on the plated pins, pcbs & cell phones, but I can't stop looking at this massively growing pile of electronic components knowing how much some of these are worth. And it would be nice to pay off all my solar panels and come even at the minimum on my endeavor from all the money I put in.
Nothing is certain in this game though and that isn't a promise that they'll sell though.

Input? Suggestions? personal experiences? Any inside insight is helpful insight. I'm going to attach a picture of the most recent box I'm currently filling up just so you have an idea of what I'm working with. I can provide more if needed but I like to keep my stash close to my heart if you know what I mean. This box isn't even near the best one, I took out all large transistors and other more pricey items and placed them into their own special holding zone. thank you for taking the time to read this excessively long thread.
 

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Hey all,
I've been going through these forums for over a year and a half, became full member after I learned a lot. Now, it's time for my first post/topic of question.

After years of collecting (my eye is always on the look out for a deal) I've had friends accuse me of back dooring stuff. My job is not worth that at all, I make way too much to risk that by doing something like stealing a few transistors. Not that any of you would suggest that. I have never stolen anything. You earn more when you work more is how I've been raised. Closest though is when I have taken stuff out of the garbage, but bartering is my butter. Being a reliable electrician gets you a lot more open offers.
Ok
For over a decade I've hoarded electronics of all types knowing that one day I would have enough time to start studying the chemistry and processes for refining precious metals. 2 years ago the time finally came. First I started by buying the books and reading forums. I eventually bit the bullet and went all in on glassware, practicing in my porch and garage using numerous different processes to get a more thorough understanding and grasp of what worked best in my situation. Over A year ago I began building a full-fledged laboratory in my 20x30 steel building after I ran power out to it. Since then I now have marble slab countertops, full hazmat lockers, acid resistance coating on the walls and floor, a decent fume Hood with 2 charcoal filter tanks, two sinks with running water of which both drain into independent storage tanks for future treating of the wastewater properly. I even built a water reclamation setup that allowed me to be completely self-contained and reuse my water after neutralizing, filtering boiling and condensing, and a final reverse osmosis that goes into clean storage tank. After purchasing 2 larger used tanks, the 2 old 500 & 700 gl tanks now collect rain water. Best part is that 75-90% of everything making up my lab/shop, besides glassware & consumables, was all reclaimed, built, repaired, salvaged, and or repurposed in some way from all over the PNW, which saved me quite a bit of money.

1yr to 6 months ago came the big push. First I broke up the single space of the 20x30 building into three independent rooms, a walkway & even have stand up room for storage, and all utilities on top of the 15' high ceiling.each room having a dedicated purpose. As an electrician I was very cheap to higher, this allowed me to fork out more for high quality upgrades on all the power and doubled my air flow. I'm now almost, but not quite at negative pressure throughout the 2 rooms. I even Put in a urinal that goes into its own drain field. Since one room has very loud woodworking equipment I fully insulated and sound dampened every wall, ceiling, and the steel skin of the building. It's allowed me to install a very nice sound system as well. I even figured repurposing my old wood burning fireplace. With the high air flow it's allows very good transfer of the heat without need of excessive duct work or extra blowers. I was very lucky and managed to acquire two 2500 gallon poly water tanks that were 5 years old for 1500$, one for fresh and one now for waste. And then the final coup de gras, I had 16, 350 watt panels placed on the roof. Bringing a total of 51 panels on my property. I am almost making 14kw (says my sense all).This finally completed my goal for a fully self-contained/self-sufficient green lab & wood shop. Since I have not been able to afford a battery bank yet I have to switch the main panel back on during nights, all extra goes back into the grid and reflects on my bill. I now rather be in my shop then anywhere else, and sometimes even sleep in my hammock instead of in the house LOL. I'm single so it don't matter, I have no one to upset

Now that everything is up and operational, and I have learned and lost quite a bit along the way, I still find myself lost at a certain decision. While I have never fully wasted out any of my material, as I have picked up new tips and tricks and have been able to recover more, using less, and more easily as time progressed. I will restart my solutions from scratch by reintroducing everything I have extracted. That means that I still am working with and recombining agents that I started with 2 years ago LOL. I have at least 7 55gl barrels full of concentrated solutions in a shed outside. Not counting all of the side experiments I have going on, and random containers of all sizes including a 35 gallon fish tank that I use for reverse plating. Labeling EVERYTHING in detail is the key. It was a hard lesson learned.

Sorry, my ADHD kicked in and I sidetracked.

I have found that the one thing I seem to be able to acquire the most of is gold (& silver) plated pins, especially those of military spec. Currently I have over 200 kilos of untouched, mostly military spec pins, mainly full & partial plated gold with a good amount of silver plated. The one thing I can't get myself into stripping is all of the other components I have that are gold-plated or filled.
Prior military service & then an aircraft electrician, now a marine electrician,I have come up with a plethora of full plated diodes of all types, transistors, relays, chips of all types, even full gold solder boards ETC. The problem that i have is everywhere I read says you can get more by selling it, especially if it works, but then they go ahead & strip it anyways. I looked up some of the items I have and I have seen upwards of $400 for a single transistor! Now those are still in original packaging and brand new, well from the 60s new. A majority of the stuff I have is also brand new, but not in packaging.

Is it worth continuing to collect all this and sell it as bulk wholesale?

Should I independently break up each component type into groups and sell them as sets or solo?

Where would I even start and how would I know how much to get or ask for? Prices vary so much sometimes.

I swear I have so many types and just by looking at prices for a handful of them, if I keep up the way I'm going I could pay off my house in another couple years, solely from selling those parts off independently (if all the stars are aligned perfectly). I am a methodical thinker though and I know that something is only worth as much as there is a need and a want for such part, like art. This is my problem and I remain vexed on what to do. So, I instead just keep filling up plastic organizer boxes and stacking them in the corner. I am quickly running out of space and have become very creative when it comes to making more space. But you can only squeeze so much blood out of an orange. I don't know the first thing about selling anything, as all I've ever done is acquire. And that goes for anything. I don't sell, I give away, barter, trade but have never sold. I've seen so many different inputs from people but it seems that no two can agree and when it comes to a best served place for resale, cliental to look out for, or how long it should be kept on the market, I've seen anything from the week on upwards to forever. Just posted on eBay and every other resale site and forget about it, to even hiring somebody to do the work for me but no one has ever provided me I reputable person or company that would do that.
Until I can get these questions answered and figured out I've mostly been working on the plated pins, pcbs & cell phones, but I can't stop looking at this massively growing pile of electronic components knowing how much some of these are worth. And it would be nice to pay off all my solar panels and come even at the minimum on my endeavor from all the money I put in.
Nothing is certain in this game though and that isn't a promise that they'll sell though.

Input? Suggestions? personal experiences? Any inside insight is helpful insight. I'm going to attach a picture of the most recent box I'm currently filling up just so you have an idea of what I'm working with. I can provide more if needed but I like to keep my stash close to my heart if you know what I mean. This box isn't even near the best one, I took out all large transistors and other more pricey items and placed them into their own special holding zone. thank you for taking the time to read this excessively long thread.
Welcome.
Since you have been lurking a lot you might know the drill ;)

As long as you just treat things mechanically all is safe, but since you have acquired glassware I guess you plan to be processing some things.
This is where things may get unhealthy.
Regarding the parts you have collected, many times they are more worth as functioning parts/components,
so learning to distinguish these is a skill that has paid dividends to some members.

Back to safety and waste and all that comes with chemicals.
Here is some study material for that part.

We ask our new members to do 3 things.
1. Read C.M. Hokes book on refining jewelers scrap, it gives an easy introduction to the most important chemistry regarding refining.
It is free here on the forum: Screen Readable Copy of Hoke's Book
2. Then read the safety section of the forum: Safety
3. And then read about "Dealing with waste" in the forum: Dealing with Waste

Suggested reading: The Library

Forum rules : https://goldrefiningforum.com/threads/gold-refining-forum-rules.31182/post-327766
 
Welcome.
Since you have been lurking a lot you might know the drill ;)

As long as you just treat things mechanically all is safe, but since you have acquired glassware I guess you plan to be processing some things.
This is where things may get unhealthy.
Regarding the parts you have collected, many times they are more worth as functioning parts/components,
so learning to distinguish these is a skill that has paid dividends to some members.

Back to safety and waste and all that comes with chemicals.
Here is some study material for that part.

We ask our new members to do 3 things.
1. Read C.M. Hokes book on refining jewelers scrap, it gives an easy introduction to the most important chemistry regarding refining.
It is free here on the forum: Screen Readable Copy of Hoke's Book
2. Then read the safety section of the forum: Safety
3. And then read about "Dealing with waste" in the forum: Dealing with Waste

Suggested reading: The Library

Forum rules : https://goldrefiningforum.com/threads/gold-refining-forum-rules.31182/post-327766
Thanks for the reply. That was the 2nd book I read.,I was initially turned off by it's age and wanted some information that I thought would be more age relevant. The first book I got was gold refining for the amateur chemist. I did not know that book was written like a kid's novel that size 35 font LOL but I did download then print Hokes book afterwardsze. I sort of have a library and quick reference guide on which book or document to go to for my questions. I like to remain a little organized as it makes life quite a bit easier and prevents dumb mistakes like I originally did. safety is most Paramount as I really enjoy having my eyes, unfortunately when dissolving pins they get pokey and they have quite often pierced my gloves and I realize it when it's a little too late. I keep a barrel of baking soda and each room at center of work area as well as fire extinguishers, full chemical shoots or chemical aprons depending what I'm doing and work allows us to and encourages it, I take home all the new gloves, respirator cartridges, face shields, chemical goggles etc as often as I need to have extras on hand. I learned the hard way about nitric acid and nitrile gloves. Watching videos makes it deceiving as they're not using fuming nitric acid when wearing nitriles so the reaction is a lot slower. I definitely will look up the dealing with the waste as I am an environmentalist and live in a forest and do not want to lose my forest or anything. Which is why I store everything properly labeled with the correct hazardous waste emblems in the correct hazardous waste containers and lockers if required. Thank you for replying. I just can't seem to figure out where to go to even start figuring out a valid price range on some of my items and where to sell them. I think eBay is just a little more washed out than a more reputable electronics resale, if there is one.
 
Thanks for the reply. That was the 2nd book I read.,I was initially turned off by it's age and wanted some information that I thought would be more age relevant. The first book I got was gold refining for the amateur chemist. I did not know that book was written like a kid's novel that size 35 font LOL but I did download then print Hokes book afterwardsze. I sort of have a library and quick reference guide on which book or document to go to for my questions. I like to remain a little organized as it makes life quite a bit easier and prevents dumb mistakes like I originally did. safety is most Paramount as I really enjoy having my eyes, unfortunately when dissolving pins they get pokey and they have quite often pierced my gloves and I realize it when it's a little too late. I keep a barrel of baking soda and each room at center of work area as well as fire extinguishers, full chemical shoots or chemical aprons depending what I'm doing and work allows us to and encourages it, I take home all the new gloves, respirator cartridges, face shields, chemical goggles etc as often as I need to have extras on hand. I learned the hard way about nitric acid and nitrile gloves. Watching videos makes it deceiving as they're not using fuming nitric acid when wearing nitriles so the reaction is a lot slower. I definitely will look up the dealing with the waste as I am an environmentalist and live in a forest and do not want to lose my forest or anything. Which is why I store everything properly labeled with the correct hazardous waste emblems in the correct hazardous waste containers and lockers if required. Thank you for replying. I just can't seem to figure out where to go to even start figuring out a valid price range on some of my items and where to sell them. I think eBay is just a little more washed out than a more reputable electronics resale, if there is one.
We do not have much use for fuming Nitric in refining.
Usually we dilute it quite a bit, this way it get more effective and has more room for dissolved salts.
 
Search for terms "end-of-life" /EOL and NOS = New old stock.

Get in touch with some of the leading companies that are specialized in selling obsolete EOL components. Offer your stock to them.

BUT:
You need to store and handle the electronic components in an appropriate way! The photos do NOT indicate that you are doing that!
You need to store them at the right temperature, and humidity, with no UV light, antic static package! Very important!
All business partners will require detailed part description date codes etc. So you need to compile a list with all details!

Offering a box with some old parts will not get you any money. If you want to get into business with "serious" business partners in this field, you need to store, handle and document your parts accordingly. Offering them on eBay is a no-go in this business. That is where you attracted the crooks and the guys who repack it and sell it as first-class material.
Choose the big players in this field, not a small company. They will tell you whether your material is worth anything, but they will also ask you for proper handling and documentation.
 
The term "MilSpec" doesn't always mean much as far as refining goes. The term generally just means an item meets a minimum standard for it's use. So if you buy on eBay you'll see that term used a lot, but it doesn't always mean it's "over the top" material.

I'm not saying your material isn't any good, I'm just saying not to get caught up with that term if your buying material.
 
To reiterate what was said by eaglekeeper once you do actually process military scrap you can understand why people use the millspec name so often as it is frequently very very heavily plated very much like Soviet era e scrap , it has to work and cost is of very little concern.
 
"I looked up some of the items I have and I have seen upwards of $400 for a single transistor!" as Rick on the Pawn Stars reality show would reply 'Is that the asking price or selling price' ?
 
"I looked up some of the items I have and I have seen upwards of $400 for a single transistor!" as Rick on the Pawn Stars reality show would reply 'Is that the asking price or selling price' ?

If you were looking on eBay, you can "check" the completed/sold box to see if any have sold in the past and at what price.
 
To reiterate what was said by eaglekeeper once you do actually process military scrap you can understand why people use the millspec name so often as it is frequently very very heavily plated very much like Soviet era e scrap , it has to work and cost is of very little concern.
I have some old 70's canister transistors from a bunch of decommissioned nuclear launch control boards. HEAVY gold plating inside AND outside, core metal is silver, and the electrodes to the silicon wafer are platinum.
 
I have some old 70's canister transistors from a bunch of decommissioned nuclear launch control boards. HEAVY gold plating inside AND outside, core metal is silver, and the electrodes to the silicon wafer are platinum.
Looks like US also had it´s own deliberate use of PMs in electronics :D My peak were soviet PtIr10 contact points which were gold plated :D :D And also AgPd30 contacts, gold plated :D
 
Looks like US also had it´s own deliberate use of PMs in electronics :D My peak were soviet PtIr10 contact points which were gold plated :D :D And also AgPd30 contacts, gold plated :D
Behold the gold! Texas Instruments logo can be seen on the front cap.
 

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We do not have much use for fuming Nitric in refining.
Usually we dilute it quite a bit, this way it get more effective and has more room for dissolved salts.
I heard many ways to dilute it I've been usually doing a 1:5 with
The term "MilSpec" doesn't always mean much as far as refining goes. The term generally just means an item meets a minimum standard for it's use. So if you buy on eBay you'll see that term used a lot, but it doesn't always mean it's "over the top" material.

I'm not saying your material isn't any good, I'm just saying not to get caught up with that term if your buying mater

Search for terms "end-of-life" /EOL and NOS = New old stock.

Get in touch with some of the leading companies that are specialized in selling obsolete EOL components. Offer your stock to them.

BUT:
You need to store and handle the electronic components in an appropriate way! The photos do NOT indicate that you are doing that!
You need to store them at the right temperature, and humidity, with no UV light, antic static package! Very important!
All business partners will require detailed part description date codes etc. So you need to compile a list with all details!

Offering a box with some old parts will not get you any money. If you want to get into business with "serious" business partners in this field, you need to store, handle and document your parts accordingly. Offering them on eBay is a no-go in this business. That is where you attracted the crooks and the guys who repack it and sell it as first-class material.
Choose the big players in this field, not a small company. They will tell you whether your material is worth anything, but they will also ask you for proper handling and documentation.
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated. The box I posted is one of mostly questionable items. To speed up the process of sorting a usually toss things into the box, out of many boxes, all dependent on the type of material it is. But I find nice ones that have no damage or rust they get independently shrink-wrapped and placed into their own holding container.
 
The term "MilSpec" doesn't always mean much as far as refining goes. The term generally just means an item meets a minimum standard for it's use. So if you buy on eBay you'll see that term used a lot, but it doesn't always mean it's "over the top" material.

I'm not saying your material isn't any good, I'm just saying not to get caught up with that term if your buying material.
Yeah you're right about that, except a lot of come out of military specification bags and or boxes. I usually don't buy items off of eBay as I can procure them from many other avenues. They definitely have a thicker plating than most commercial pins or I have recovered quite a bit using the reverse plating method and have been able to tell the difference by commercial and my so-called military specification items. I haven't processed recovered material yet I just keep building it up and I have a great deal of black sludge. So far about a half a gallon of nothing but black sludge with minimal fluid.
 
"I looked up some of the items I have and I have seen upwards of $400 for a single transistor!" as Rick on the Pawn Stars reality show would reply 'Is that the asking price or selling price' ?
Yeah there was a couple pieces that I found for $400 or so. I was in shock that they were literally tossed into a recycling bin. They hadn't even been touched yet. Those ones are shrink-wrapped and set in the side for future processing and or transactions. I had no idea that some parts can be worse so much, and I'm an electrician.
 
I have some old 70's canister transistors from a bunch of decommissioned nuclear launch control boards. HEAVY gold plating inside AND outside, core metal is silver, and the electrodes to the silicon wafer are platinum.
I don't know how you get a hold of nuclear control boards? Those things are held under such tight control lock and key security. That would have been very interesting to see in my opinion.
 
To reiterate what was said by eaglekeeper once you do actually process military scrap you can understand why people use the millspec name so often as it is frequently very very heavily plated very much like Soviet era e scrap , it has to work and cost is of very little concern.
I used to work on E2C aircraft and when they would take off the radar dome. It would be held under armed security. I heard from one of the technicians the reason is that all of the wire in there is solid gold and needed due to the extreme conditions it's put through. Something like a mile worth of solid gold wire, talk about your tax dollars flying away.
 
I don't know how you get a hold of nuclear control boards? Those things are held under such tight control lock and key security. That would have been very interesting to see in my opinion.
Decommissioned and from 1976. It was from a guy on Ebay who had connections and could get his hands of lots of ultra-high quality scrap. He quit Ebay after a rapid number of policy and listing changes last year kept messing up his listings AND scammers selling garbage E-waste became prolific. The components are ANCIENT. Each board's functions could be performed with a modern chip the size of my pinkie finger's finger nail.
 
Nice, is that a three-legged transistor or one of the zener diodes?
I'm assuming it's a transistor. I've never seen any others like this, and I'm just going by the placement and attachment of the electrodes to the silicon wafer, which looks similar to the little canister transistors' insides.
 
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