In no particular order.
1. Less is more. Your pour temperature on large 100 + oz bars need be no higher than 990*C.
2. Melt it quickly and don't re-melt it. Every time you melt it, it gets dirtier, more silver volatilizes away, and more oxygen is absorbed. Very recently, I've seen very fine (5N+ silver) melted in our bench top muffle furnace literally boil when it cooled because it had been left sitting in the silver furnace overlong at 1050 C.
3. When pouring, make sure your mold is free of moisture or excess oil.
4. Pre-warm your mold to at least half the temperature of the silver coming into it.
5. When pouring, wear gloves and appropriate safety equipment so that you're not dropping hot crucibles and the like in the event of something going wrong (i.e. steam explosion, you have an almighty sneeze and slosh it around, etc.)
6. Sooting the mold with acetylene does help with surface finish (even on graphite) and allows for easier dump out on molds with less draft; just be sure not to breathe it in, as it's a bunch of nasty stuff!
7. If you have a heavy hand with the borax or carbonate, add clean white silica to thicken the slag. It does not take much to do this, but it will hold the slag to the crucible and keep it out of your mold.
8. Have a steady hand. Quickly but steadily empty the crucible into the mold. Good tongs are essential.
9. If you want a mirror finish, have a fan flame set up over your molds. This disturbs the surface movement and organization into crystallites (or contraction patterns) and prevents oxides from appearing.
10. Put a bunch of paper towels or cotton rags in the bottom of your stainless quench bucket. When you dump your molds and the bars out and into the quench bucket, it'll keep them from getting dinged or marred.
To the pros: I have had success de-oxing silver with hydrogen or methane gas blown through it.
Lou