Watchbands that are mostly stainless steel would likely benefit from a technique that allows the gold to dissolve in the acid but not the stainless.
Taking advantage of the fact that stainless steel can be made more resistant to corrosion by a process of nitric acid passivation, the acid mixture can be made up to take advantage of the oxide film the nitric acid can form to protect the stainless and still dissolve the gold.
How is this possible?
A quick summary is to make up a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acid with percentages quite different than normal aqua regia. This mixture will have the effect of passivating the nitric and at the same time dissolving the gold.
This is how it is done.
First off it is good to have a rough idea of how much metal you actually want to dissolve. Since you have been tearing up your hands dissecting these watches, you have an idea of what percentage of the bands are worth digesting and what percentage is the stainless. Using this valuable knowledge we can determine how much acid to use to digest what we want to digest and not attack the stainless.
Based on the fact that a liter of aqua regia will dissolve (more or less) 7.5 troy ounces of metal, Calculate how much aqua regia you need to dissolve just what you want to digest.
Now take 80% of that volume you just calculated and that is how much Hydrochloric acid you will need to add.
So lets say you have calculated that the batch you want to process will have a pound of metal you need to digest. A pound is 14.583 troy ounces. So 14.583/7.5= 1.944 (call it 1.95) 80% of that is 1.55 liters of hydrochloric.
We want to make up a solution that is 97% nitric acid water mixture (50/50) and 3% Hydrochloric. So that means we need 51.66 liters of the nitric water mix plus the hydrochloric. That is a lot of nitric but 1 pound of watch ends is from a good number of bands. (.03*X=1.55) total acid required (51.66*.97=50.11) liters of nitric water mix.
So add all of the nitric to a bucket first then stir in the hydrochloric acid. Now add the watchbands and the reaction will kick off and die when the metal dissolved consumes all of the hydrochloric. The stainless will have passivated and will not dissolve.
So a small guy may say that's a lot of nitric, and it is, but it performs the necessary reactions.
Before we move on to removing the gold from the acid we should discuss how this can work for a small guy.
Calculate the amount of acid for 1 ounce of watch ends (1/7.5=.13333 liters X .8 =0.106 liters HCl
.03*X=.106 =3.55 liters total acid 3.55*.97=3.44 liters of nitric water mix.
Mix the acid and add enough bands to get close to the 1 ounce of ends you want to dissolve. When the reaction dies, filter the acid off and add more watchbands and slowly add more hydrochloric. The goal here is to use the nitric until it starts to attack the stainless, then the acid needs to be replaced with a new 97% / 3% solution and start over. In time you will determine how many watchbands you can process with a single batch of acid.
The gold is in the filtered solution with a lot of nitric. The nitric needs to be neutralized before the gold will drop out. Sulfamic acid is the way to do this. It is imperative that you keep track of exactly how much 70% nitric you used to start. For every milliliter of nitric you started with add (need I say cautiously) 1.5 grams of sulfamic acid.
Then drop the gold with your precipitant of choice.
So now you have to decide is the use of more nitric worth saving your hands! All refining techniques involve trade-offs, this one requires nitric which does not come easy to some smaller refiners.