cleaning dirty copper??????????????
- Thread starter uksmoker
- Start date
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If it has copper oxide 'scale' on it, then dilute HCl or even distilled table vinegar will brighten it up. As soon as it visibly works, quickly wash it with distilled water. It should look decent enough for sale, although I seriously doubt if the scrapper would give a damn whether it be nasty looking or new from the factory. All superficial cosmetics.
As an aside, here's what I do for protecting metallic things from fumes.
In my laboratory, metal items just seem to corrode. To protect them from the obviously corrosive atmosphere I've devised a nice little method:
For copper, brass/bronze, and stainless-- I just put a dilute solution of HCl onto a sponge and scrub them (tubes, pans, solid things, whatever) until clean. It has a dull metal colour to it afterwards. If I want to polish it brightly and make them glow so I can see my reflection then I have another trick: paper towel, and a little bit of kaowool. Kaowool is made of a hard material (fine emery also works, but not as well). Pretty much just wrap the pipe or whatever object up and polish it. It will give a mirror finish. After that's done, rinse it again with distilled water and dry it with a towel. Then take another bit of paper and smear on some silicone grease or a bit of carnauba wax dissolved up in solvent.
For aluminum, well, that just shouldn't be there, but if you must clean it you can use a dilute HF solution. I don't recommend it; generally speaking aluminum + HCl fumes generated during refining = nasty mess. So keep aluminum away.
Steel rusts as well, but if you buff it clean, the wax trick will protect it for a while.
Lou
As an aside, here's what I do for protecting metallic things from fumes.
In my laboratory, metal items just seem to corrode. To protect them from the obviously corrosive atmosphere I've devised a nice little method:
For copper, brass/bronze, and stainless-- I just put a dilute solution of HCl onto a sponge and scrub them (tubes, pans, solid things, whatever) until clean. It has a dull metal colour to it afterwards. If I want to polish it brightly and make them glow so I can see my reflection then I have another trick: paper towel, and a little bit of kaowool. Kaowool is made of a hard material (fine emery also works, but not as well). Pretty much just wrap the pipe or whatever object up and polish it. It will give a mirror finish. After that's done, rinse it again with distilled water and dry it with a towel. Then take another bit of paper and smear on some silicone grease or a bit of carnauba wax dissolved up in solvent.
For aluminum, well, that just shouldn't be there, but if you must clean it you can use a dilute HF solution. I don't recommend it; generally speaking aluminum + HCl fumes generated during refining = nasty mess. So keep aluminum away.
Steel rusts as well, but if you buff it clean, the wax trick will protect it for a while.
Lou
Something for all to think about, I believe Lou works in a rather professional lab at work as well as home. Fume hoods I would guess for most reactions. Yet he has these oxidation reactions even with these precautions.
My point?
Most here do not have the same advantages with lab set up. The oxidation he sees is due to fumes you do not see where you work. Think about what you may be breathing.
This is not said to scare, just be aware.
My point?
Most here do not have the same advantages with lab set up. The oxidation he sees is due to fumes you do not see where you work. Think about what you may be breathing.
This is not said to scare, just be aware.
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8,360
Your post is right on target. I ran my fume hood almost non-stop when I refined. Anything that could corrode did, even with precautions. It's not a heavily destructive corrosion, just a general degradation of surfaces. Imagine what it might be doing to one's lungs!
There's no way in hell I'd refine without a hood. I even wore a chemical respirator when I dealt with bromine, in the hood!
Harold
There's no way in hell I'd refine without a hood. I even wore a chemical respirator when I dealt with bromine, in the hood!
Harold
A
Anonymous
Guest
I would build a wire stripper, or sell as insulated. I may be wrong but I am convinced that you/I loose more copper to oxidation than you loose in getting paid insulated rate, if the wire is over #16 you can easily strip it even with a box cutter. You will loose even more if you dissolve it away with an acid, plus you will have to pay for the acid.
Jim
Jim
loco
Well-known member
yeah I know it sucks but I would probably just pony up the funds to get one of the cheap automatic wirestrippers. heck they even have some that are drill powered. check ebay.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I've been scrappy copper for a while, I dont have any fancy tools, but I'm sure one would be nice. I just use my trusty exacto knife. I stick the copper through a hole I have drilled in my bench, pull it throught the hole while stripping at the same time. It takes a little while to get used to, but once you master the process, it takes no time at all. Much better than throwin it into a fire. Most places will give upwards of 25 cents per lb or more for bare bright than for burnt, or corroded wire. For insulated wire, your better off stripping, to keep that number 1 copper in tact. one of the the places I go to will actually only give 1.65 per lb of insulated copper wire, and 2.70 for dirty number 2...I guess my point here is, if you dont have the time to strip, I guess your better off burning it off. Be carefull though, some people dont know what they have, some older copper is wrapped in asbestos, some lead...just be carefull, you dont want to be breathing any of that nasty stuff in.
Wretch
Wretch
A
Anonymous
Guest
wretched sinner said:
I would think that thin (16ga+) wire has nearly as much weight in insulation as it does in wire, it may be worthwhile to just sell it as-is effort free for the $1.65 instead of the 2.70 if you had a lot of thin-gauge stuff, as you find in car wiring harnesses/etc.
