Gold Filled Data
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lazersteve
Well-known member
The answer is not that simple.
Here are some reasons:
Is the gold filled scrap free of stainless steel parts (ie. watch bands with GF tops)?
What is the karat and percentage of the GF scrap (ie. 1/20 12 kt GF)?
Is the GF scrap old and worn? The gold filled layer tends to wear over time and therefore loses gold below that which it is hallmarked.
How much did you pay for the scrap? (This one is pretty obvious)
Are there any no metallic parts to the GF scrap (lenses, plastics, etc.)?
For a hypothetical 100 gram lot of 1/20 12kt GF you can calculate the estimate gold yields like this:
(1/20) * (12/24kt) * 100g=
0.05 * 0.5 * 100g =
0.025 * 100g =2.5 grams of refined gold
The value of that gold is then calculated from the current spot price.
Don't forget your shipping, labor, and chemical costs when estimating gold filled value.
Steve
Here are some reasons:
Is the gold filled scrap free of stainless steel parts (ie. watch bands with GF tops)?
What is the karat and percentage of the GF scrap (ie. 1/20 12 kt GF)?
Is the GF scrap old and worn? The gold filled layer tends to wear over time and therefore loses gold below that which it is hallmarked.
How much did you pay for the scrap? (This one is pretty obvious)
Are there any no metallic parts to the GF scrap (lenses, plastics, etc.)?
For a hypothetical 100 gram lot of 1/20 12kt GF you can calculate the estimate gold yields like this:
(1/20) * (12/24kt) * 100g=
0.05 * 0.5 * 100g =
0.025 * 100g =2.5 grams of refined gold
The value of that gold is then calculated from the current spot price.
Don't forget your shipping, labor, and chemical costs when estimating gold filled value.
Steve
viacin
Well-known member
I have heard that vintage GF scrap has a lot more gold on it compared to something that is made today. Was the guy I heard this from just trying to sell me his old scrap over his new, or was he being truthful? This would explain why the newer stuff is cheap cheap, but the older still sells for a decent value.
I'm sure that they use as little as possible, but it seems to me that older stuff will have wear and could be thinner compared to something brand new. However the statment would apply to gold plated, perhaps he is confused. If he is right, is there a certain year that the gold suddenly got thinner, or was it a gradual process? Is the calculations you have given accurate for old and new GF?
I'm sure that they use as little as possible, but it seems to me that older stuff will have wear and could be thinner compared to something brand new. However the statment would apply to gold plated, perhaps he is confused. If he is right, is there a certain year that the gold suddenly got thinner, or was it a gradual process? Is the calculations you have given accurate for old and new GF?
lazersteve
Well-known member
The condition of the scrap and the marking on the scrap is what will determine the actual gold content.
As a general rule older gold filled is more worn, so an identically marked old piece would very likely have less gold than a piece with the same markings that is new unless the old piece were in mint condition, then they should be roughly equally valued.
The is also value in the vintage quality of a piece to some folks.
Steve
As a general rule older gold filled is more worn, so an identically marked old piece would very likely have less gold than a piece with the same markings that is new unless the old piece were in mint condition, then they should be roughly equally valued.
The is also value in the vintage quality of a piece to some folks.
Steve
steveonmars
Well-known member
What is gold filled compared to gold plated? Gold plated is fairly obvious, but gold filled? How do you tell the difference?
Thanks!
Steve
Thanks!
Steve
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
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Gold filled is alloyed gold, a thin layer that is mechanically bonded to the surface of the item, the core being a base metal, usually a copper alloy. Plating is generally pure, or nearly so. You can tell the difference between plating and gold filled by the color, if nothing else.
If gold filled is lower karat (10 K), it will discolor with a drop of nitric, turning the tested area a light brown color. That's the result of dissolving the base metals that are alloyed with the gold, leaving the now honeycombed gold behind.
Plated gold will not react to nitric, although if it is dirty it may be brightened by a drop of nitric. Given enough time, nitric will penetrate most gold plating and react vigorously with the base metals, often a copper alloy.
Marking standards for gold filled are such that you can determine the percentage of gold with which the original item was manufactured. An example of the marking might read something like 1/10-12KGF, which would indicate that the item was made with a total of 5% gold. That particular marking used to be commonly seen on eyeglass frames.
The unfortunate problem with gold filled is that if the items are old and well worn, it is the gold that is lost, therefore the formula may not reflect actual recovery.
Harold
If gold filled is lower karat (10 K), it will discolor with a drop of nitric, turning the tested area a light brown color. That's the result of dissolving the base metals that are alloyed with the gold, leaving the now honeycombed gold behind.
Plated gold will not react to nitric, although if it is dirty it may be brightened by a drop of nitric. Given enough time, nitric will penetrate most gold plating and react vigorously with the base metals, often a copper alloy.
Marking standards for gold filled are such that you can determine the percentage of gold with which the original item was manufactured. An example of the marking might read something like 1/10-12KGF, which would indicate that the item was made with a total of 5% gold. That particular marking used to be commonly seen on eyeglass frames.
The unfortunate problem with gold filled is that if the items are old and well worn, it is the gold that is lost, therefore the formula may not reflect actual recovery.
Harold
2.5 grams today per 100 grams of gold fill material would be about 75 dollars...Could that material be processed using steves AP method & just wait ?? If time is not a factor..OR...AP & warm Crock pot method has been mentioned..Is that a viable option??? I was going to try an old pair in with my first batch of fingers & then thought might be better to try & do a 100 gram pile all by itself just for the sake of science & report back here...mike
Buzz
Well-known member
Why not buy Steve's Gold Filled scrap DVD?
He takes you by the hand, step by step from start to finish.
I can definately recommend it.
Regards
Buzz
He takes you by the hand, step by step from start to finish.
I can definately recommend it.
Regards
Buzz
qst42know
Well-known member
This is from Hokes book on testing.
"In order to meet U. S. standards the gold layer must be of at least 10-k quality. If the weight of the karat gold is more than 1/20 of the total weight, the jewelry may be stamped "gold filled" The term "rolled gold plate" is used when the gold layer is thinner."
And as has been said before, the gold is on the outside and it wears away first.
"In order to meet U. S. standards the gold layer must be of at least 10-k quality. If the weight of the karat gold is more than 1/20 of the total weight, the jewelry may be stamped "gold filled" The term "rolled gold plate" is used when the gold layer is thinner."
And as has been said before, the gold is on the outside and it wears away first.
hihoag
Member
Buzz
What exactly does Steve's Gold Filled scrap DVD cover? How much is it and where can I find it?
Thanks
What exactly does Steve's Gold Filled scrap DVD cover? How much is it and where can I find it?
Thanks
lazersteve
Well-known member
Hihoag,
On my Gold Filled DVD I demonstrate the entire process of refining a batch of gold filled scrap from various sources (watches, chains, rings, wire, etc.).
The DVD costs $25 plus shipping and is available at my website:
http://www.goldrecovery.us
Steve
On my Gold Filled DVD I demonstrate the entire process of refining a batch of gold filled scrap from various sources (watches, chains, rings, wire, etc.).
The DVD costs $25 plus shipping and is available at my website:
http://www.goldrecovery.us
Steve
lazersteve
Well-known member
Yes, I use nitric in the process.
Steve
Steve
Theoretically, but usually contains less. Chains often contain solder which lower the gold content. Also, before about 1980, manufacturers were allowed a 1/2 karat leeway. So, if I were the buyer and if the chain is well marked and if I had tested it (both the chain links and the clasp) to make sure it was solid gold and approx. 14K, I would assume it was about 13 K. If I were the seller, I would call it 14 karat. If I refined it, it would probably fall somewhere in between.
So, if I were buying, the formula would be (40)*(13/24) or (40)*(.542). If I were selling, the formula would be as you said.
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gLyze said:
Correct. At least in theory, but carat (with a C) is for jewels. Gold is karat, with a K.
Markings, and when the item was made, at least in the US, can make a big difference. If you have an item marked as .583, fairly good chance that's what it will yield. If it is marked 14K, and is old, and fabricated, it could be as low as 13K and still comply with regulations.
Smart people never rely on a yield in keeping with marks. There's never been a shortage of dishonest people that manufacture gold products.
Harold
