KARO SYRUP ?
- Thread starter BAKARAT
- Start date
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You can also use cane sugar as seen on my silver refining DVD.
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Steve
http://goldrecovery.us
You can also use cane sugar as seen on my silver refining DVD.
http://goldrecovery.us/pricing.asp
Steve
For each troy ounce of silver, as silver chloride, well rinsed, just cover with water and add to this 20 grams of sodium hydroxide, dissolved previously, in water, plus about 13.3 ml of Karo light syrup. Stir for about 15 minutes. A power stirrer is the best, since it will chop things up and you will have a better yield. The solution will turn reddish-black but all the silver chloride will be converted to a gray, granular silver powder. Rinse very well and melt the silver.
philddreamer
Well-known member
Bakarat, sugar will also work. In essence, glucose.
Check out lazersterve's videos!
Have a good one!
Phil
Check out lazersterve's videos!
Have a good one!
Phil
HAuCl4
Well-known member
You can also use the sodium hidroxide as GSP says, stir and wash well the black crystals of silver oxide. After wash, you can add H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide), and stir. The gas that comes out is oxygen, be careful. No need to wash after that the beautiful clean silver sand that remains!. 8)
Platdigger said:
The sodium hydroxide converts the silver chloride to silver oxide. The silver oxide is converted to silver metal by simply heating and melting it. Also, as HAuCl4 said, you can use H2O2 to convert it to metal. I would imagine the amount of NaOH needed would be about the same - about 20 grams per troy ounce of silver contained in the silver chloride.
It's not easy to get 100% conversion of AgCl to silver metal. If you have unconverted AgCl, it will end up in a layer in between the silver and the slag after melting and cooling. This solid AgCl is very difficult to convert to metal. Also, when molten, AgCl puts off dangerous fumes. It's best to get it all converted before melting it. All of your efforts should be towards this goal.
When the AgCl is chunky, the NaOH or NaOH/Karo solutions only tend to convert the AgCl on the surface of the chunk. The center is still AgCl. When AgCl dries out, it crystallizes and forms hard chunks. Never let the AgCl dry out - keep it wet. To get near 100% conversion, you must pulverize the AgCl. I would do this even if it's been kept wet. This can be easily done by adding water and putting it in a blender for awhile. If the seals will stand up to the NaOH, it would be best to also perform the chemical reactions in the blender - whether you're using NaOH alone or both NaOH and Karo syrup. If you don't have a blender, a flour sieve might work on dry material, but not as well as a blender.
If using NaOH and Karo (corn syrup) or other sugar to get a complete conversion to metal, you are always told to add the NaOH first and, only when it has been converted to the oxide do you add the syrup. I has found that this isn't necessary. You can add both at once, with the same results. I always calculate or estimate how much silver I have and use 10% extra chemicals.
philddreamer
Well-known member
Thank you GSP!
You just answered my question of why I get some white smoke & sometime silver trapped in a reddish slag. I'll make sure I try harder to convert the agcl next time.
Phil
You just answered my question of why I get some white smoke & sometime silver trapped in a reddish slag. I'll make sure I try harder to convert the agcl next time.
Phil
HAuCl4
Well-known member
philddreamer said:
Phil, I somehow deleted part of your post. Sorry.
8)
I have used all sorts of paint mixers chucked in drills. The blender is the best, though, because of it's chopping action. If the AgCl have been kept wet and out of the light, a paint mixer works well. On one job, I converted about 10,000 oz of wet AgCl, batched, with NaOH and Karo, in 2 or 3 open-top plastic 55 gal. drums using a plunger type stirrer. On other jobs, I have used a 500 gallon tank with a clamp-on Lightin' mixer.
What is a "plunger" stirrer? It's an up-and-down stirrer made from a disk, with holes in it. mounted on the end of a piece of pipe. You lift the solution and sludge up, instead of around in circles. It is easily 10 times more efficient than a stirring rod. You can make small ones and big ones. They used to sell these in most every lab supply catalog.
Materials for a drum size plunger stirrer - use 3/4" or 1" plastic pipe and fittings - Sch 40 works fine:
1) 2 ea pipe caps
2) 1 ea 5' length of pipe
3) 1 ea coupling
4) 1 nipple (see below)
5) 1 ea 5+' length of rebar (see below) - 3/8" dia is about right.
6) 1 ea plastic disk - before you cut out the top of the plastic drum, draw a 5" or 6" circle (disk) in the center of the plastic top - the drum top is about 1/4" thick in the center. Drill a hole in the center of the circle, so the pipe will just fit into it. Drill about 6 or 8, 1/2" holes spaced around and within the disk. Finally, cut out the disk.
7) Pipe cement
Starting from one end, you have: cap - 5' pipe with rebar in it - coupling - nipple - disk - cap. Cement everything together but the disk.
The disk slides onto the nipple. The nipple is of a length so that the disk fits snugly between the coupling and the final cap.
The rebar is of a length to fit inside of the whole assembly - with a little play in the total length - say, 1/2". The purpose of the rebar is to give it weight to prevent the stirrer from floating and also to give it rigidity to prevent it from warping when stirring hot solutions. Without the rebar, the bent pipe will stay bent after it cools.
To use it, slowly plunge it up and down. Don't do it fast, especially on the upstroke, or you will slosh out the solution. On the upstroke, don't bring the disk out of the solution or you will slosh out the solution. It takes about 10 seconds to figure out how to use it.
With large amounts of solution, you'll never use another stirring rod. I even made a small one for 5 gal. buckets.
Chris
HAuCl4
Well-known member
Harold_V said:
Hi Harold: I sat in the half-lotus position, relaxed, and intervened GSP's mind and made him change:
"You can always stir the stuff in a bucket using an electric hand drill with a long rod with a X welded on the tip during the hidroxide reaction. Or a blender like GSP says."
which I had posted, to:
"Phil, I somehow deleted part of your post. Sorry."
:lol:
Clearly I possess some clairvoyance, telekinesis, and other paranormal psychic abilities!. :shock: :lol:
GSP: I like the up and down plunger stirrer a lot. Simple and effective. Thanks for posting. Now let me psychically influence you to change back my post, so that Harold will not think bad of me!. 8)
This plunger-stirrer is, I presume, for manual use only. Right?.
Sorry for the confusion. I don't know why I said "Phil". I was the one that deleted HAuCl4's post inadvertently.
Chris
Chris
philddreamer
Well-known member
No need to be sorry!
I've picked up more info from all of you than what I shared, so, no harm done. I'm getting ready to process close to 2# of silver scrap & I need all the right information I can get, & no better place than here! I've work with gold for last few months & now it's silver for a little while & I want to get it right from the start.
Thank you gentlemen! 8)
Phil
I've picked up more info from all of you than what I shared, so, no harm done. I'm getting ready to process close to 2# of silver scrap & I need all the right information I can get, & no better place than here! I've work with gold for last few months & now it's silver for a little while & I want to get it right from the start.
Thank you gentlemen! 8)
Phil
