litle question about ap tin and coppe

[ericrm]

can somebody tell me what will appen if i disolve tin lead and copper at the same time in ap
will they all disolve at the same rate and when the solution will be saturated,the tin will precipitate the copper and lead
OR
will the ap disolve the hiest reactive of the 3 and, end up leaving copper alone until all the tin is disolve

also can i disolve thin and lead in hcl or do i need something else
thank you
Eric

 

[Geo]

the AP will dissolve the tin first and then deposit it back on to the pins and make them look black, but thats just temporary. if its a little solder you wont notice any change in the solution as it goes along. if theres alot of solder you can get tin dioxide crystals thats can trap your gold in the last part of the process. if you get stuff that looks like sand just incinerate and add some fresh hcl and it will dissovle quickly. never add water to the solution until you rinse your foils because copper (II) chloride will form but this too can be dissolved with fresh hcl. it would be best to boil the pins in just hcl acid for a few minutes to remove as much solder as you can before you start your AP reaction.

 

[ericrm]

what you said is very uselfull but im not doing pins right now, im trying to find an easy way to remove flat pack on memory , i was doing them by hand and after 3 stick ..... i just tough they is gonna be an more effective way to do it

and right now it is very much looking as you said
thin and lead are first disolve my flat pack are practicaly all free sadlly for me (and my amke it big)i have put to much memory stick (with the gold)(3-4 pound and its gonna be a mess later to separate but well i got to learn it easy or hard...
also it is strange i not sure why but at first i had many stick that loss theyr finger (this was what make me think everything was disolving at same rate but after 10-15 minute ,as you describe the finger whent grayist and stop falling)

with what you said and and my actual result i think im on a good direction escept next time i will remove finger first or pass them in hcl alone before (but not both)
thank you
Eric

also i just bought myself a full face and it is a real charm to work with,i would recommend to those who wanna feel a bit saffer for theyr eye(its relatively cheap 20 box at bmr...)and it is well worth it

 

[Geo]

its actually is the same process for fingers as pins. the same reactions apply to both. its best to either cut the fingers from the memory sticks or remove the chips before AP. this can be done very easily with a dull knife or a screwdriver. just push the utensil down one side a couple of times ontil it breaks loose then fold the chip back and forth a couple of times to break the other side loose. or boil in hcl for a few minutes and the solder will dissolve, mostly.

 

[ericrm]

well i just got a surprise that i didnt think of with this idea ,the paper and glue from the memory stick make a mess in my bucket ,it take me about 1/2 hour by pouring and waiting for my solution to get filtered .

if you allow me to ask, i have some question that i would love to get answer


with this solution of tin, lead, and copper chloride i have tryed to recover the metal by electrolisis
i have use 2 stainless metal plate (use stainless because it is what i have who is the stongest) but i have gotten a weird smell,do hydrogene have a bad smell or do i have breath something bad ?
also
im thinking that maybe i should use old saturated ap to remove tin from memory board (that sound like a good idea i recover copper in the process) my 2 question is will my solution become crystal clear :shock: when all the copper will be precipitate (having a visual indicator would be realy nice)?

one other question(at 10 $ a pound) how would you recover the tin in the solution?

and other one ... what is left when you get all the metal out, is it plain water or is it back to acid?

thank you a lot
Eric

 

[Geo]

if you use a bubbler like a fish tank bubbler, you can re-use the AP solution over and over again just adding a small amount of hcl due to loss of taking material out of solution. after the parts are stripped leave the bubbler in the solution bubbling after you have removed materials. this will help clear the liquid back to a deep rich green color ready for the next batch. remember to remove black powder before starting batch, this will be mostly copper that has dropped out of solution. to use a stripping cell you need to use inert material for the cathode. stainless steel will react to hot hcl acid so this is a poor choice, lead would be better suited. check out the free videos on this subject at lazersteves website at www.goldrecovery.us to log in use the username (gold) and the password (goldm1ner*). someone else will have to guide you as to reclaim the tin. ive never tried to reclaim it myself as im too preoccupied with PM's. :lol: