Old Pocket Watch movements

Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

snoman701

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2016
Messages
2,242
Location
SE MI
Some of these are at least silver plated. But has anyone ever melted just a pile of movements and had it assayed?

Not talking cases, this was just a small pile of movements I have from a watchmakers estate. Nothing valuable in terms of watch movements.

As an example, I can see that the balance wheel on some of these appears to be either a heavy gold plate, or possibly karat for it's density.
 
A few of those are karat gold. I’m not sure which ones with out testing them all, supposedly some are marked on the movement body.
 
The most common components to be made of gold in your old pocket watches would be the collars around the screw set ruby bearings. As mentioned, you’ll likely be able to get more for the watches or their parts than the metal content alone.

I’m always buying watch materials and happy to make an offer- feel free to message me.
V/R
Tim Psaledakis
 

Attachments

  • 52E848DB-3BA1-42BD-8654-7768D745ED29.jpeg
    52E848DB-3BA1-42BD-8654-7768D745ED29.jpeg
    612.5 KB
I don't know the parts, but when I recover GF material from watches I throw the movements into AP and filter the residues a couple times a year. Then put the filter in with the rest of the filters to be procced later. There is always little bits of karat and foils. It all adds up.....
 
Some of these are at least silver plated. But has anyone ever melted just a pile of movements and had it assayed?

Not talking cases, this was just a small pile of movements I have from a watchmakers estate. Nothing valuable in terms of watch movements.

As an example, I can see that the balance wheel on some of these appears to be either a heavy gold plate, or possibly karat for it's density.
You probably has them as mixed lot, so separating and assaying single pieces does not have benefits for you. I regularly do XRF "assays" like this:

1. weigh the starting material
2. melt to form uniform button
3. hammer button flat and sand off the surface to show fresh metal
4. weigh the button to assign the melting loss
5. shot the sanded flattened button with XRF, which determine PM %
6. do the math :)

Not superextra accurate, but if the XRF machine is from upper-middle class, error is within 5%. Measuring solid metal samples is relatively bulletproof, and you can happily round the PM content to the grams per kg. Less than 1g/kg is somewhat troublesome with bigger error margin, but from 2g/kg higher it is everything I need when buying scrap.
I would advise to melt the stuff to one button, sand it nicely with sandpaper or angle grinder and let it zapped by someone. Quick and very informative. I regularly do micro-assays of pins, plated boards, contact points and MLCCs etc by this technique.
 
I was taught to sample using a quartz tube and a turkey baster by pulling from the center of the induction melt immediately following a good stir. Then roll the pin flat and polish with powdered pumice between the tips of my fingers.

I'd kill for a good handheld XRF, but I'm not there yet. But yeah, the readings are only as good as your sample preparation.

Are you using a handheld, or desktop unit so you can comfortably do long count readings?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top