Updated spreadsheet: Nov 3. Added a diamond page, and a CPU/escrap page.
I think Excel viewer would work, if you do not have office, but not 100% sure.
This one is very similar to the other ones listed, but it is greatly enhanced. The enhancements are: Gold and silver. GF pricing. Auto computes percentages, and will increase the percentage you pay, as the size of the lot increases. I have this coded to pay:
60% for 0 - 2 toz (raw weight, but is simple to change to actual 24k weight)
65% for 2 - 4 toz
70% for 4 - 6 toz
75% for + 6 toz
The sheet will auto "kickup" the rate you pay, as you enter more and more items (crossing the X troy ounce levels).
Most of the "need NOT to know" data is located on the "Per" sheet. It is where the percentages are, and where the "spot" price items are. usually, the only thing you need to do on that page, is to make sure the spot is properly filled in, and possibly to sneak a QUICK peek at the 100% value, if you are needing to negotiate.
Ok, the spreadsheet has 4 main pages, 2 for gold, and 2 for silver. You should only use ONE of the gold, and ONE of the silver at a time. This is because the auto-increased % payout page looks on both the karat gram and the karat DWT pages to compute ounces being purchased. So make sure you only input the data on one of them. I usually use the gram page, unless I have chatted with the seller, and they frequent pawn shops, etc. If so, they are used to prices (at least it is so in my area) that are in DWT, and will know the price there. If so, and they see the numbers I am working with, I damn well want to make SURE they see the DWT prices, so they know how much more I am paying than the pawn dealers.
To use this sheet, go to the "per" page, and properly fill in cells C17 and C18 which are the troy spot for fine gold and fine silver. The "spot" price listed (and used for computation) on each of the 4 pages will auto update from the "per" page, so ONLY update the spot prices there. I have a laptop, and a small pocket PC that I take with me, I fill in the spot prior to going out for a purchase, so there is no reason for the "per" page to ever be seen by the seller. It contains things you might NOT want the seller to see. "hiding" the page is not a bad idea, once the spot has been entered. The forumlas will work even if the sheet is hidden.
Once you have the proper spot filled in, then simply and carefully categorize and sort the lot into karat weights, being sure to test the pieces (I test everything with electronic, and also file to find any GF material). Then weight the "like" karat material (properly with gram or DWT, depending upon the page you are using), and simply key in the number into the orange box for that karat (or GF line). Note, stones, watch mechanics, metal springs, etc, will HAVE to be accounted for (or guessed), or the numbers will be way off. Once you have ALL of the weighted items entered, then the total pay in the upper right corner should show the total value you are willing to pay (in the percentage you are paying).
I have found this spreadsheet to be a wonderful tool, and when I have had sellers thinking that their huge (pile of crap), which there are 2 14k rings, and a 10k bracelet I want, and a BUNCH of worthless chains and such, are worth "more" than I am quoting. I simply pull out the "computer" and show them the numbers. Every time, they have agreed that the material is worth what I am quoting. I think every time, they KNOW that most of that pretty gold "colored" stuff is the crap that it is. Most in the end, do not want it, and usually will toss it all in for a few extra dollars. I take it, and have a couple flea market people I know sell it off, giving me a cut (probably so I can re-buy it again a few months later (LOL), from someone else selling their "treasures" because they need casino money.)
I think Excel viewer would work, if you do not have office, but not 100% sure.
This one is very similar to the other ones listed, but it is greatly enhanced. The enhancements are: Gold and silver. GF pricing. Auto computes percentages, and will increase the percentage you pay, as the size of the lot increases. I have this coded to pay:
60% for 0 - 2 toz (raw weight, but is simple to change to actual 24k weight)
65% for 2 - 4 toz
70% for 4 - 6 toz
75% for + 6 toz
The sheet will auto "kickup" the rate you pay, as you enter more and more items (crossing the X troy ounce levels).
Most of the "need NOT to know" data is located on the "Per" sheet. It is where the percentages are, and where the "spot" price items are. usually, the only thing you need to do on that page, is to make sure the spot is properly filled in, and possibly to sneak a QUICK peek at the 100% value, if you are needing to negotiate.
Ok, the spreadsheet has 4 main pages, 2 for gold, and 2 for silver. You should only use ONE of the gold, and ONE of the silver at a time. This is because the auto-increased % payout page looks on both the karat gram and the karat DWT pages to compute ounces being purchased. So make sure you only input the data on one of them. I usually use the gram page, unless I have chatted with the seller, and they frequent pawn shops, etc. If so, they are used to prices (at least it is so in my area) that are in DWT, and will know the price there. If so, and they see the numbers I am working with, I damn well want to make SURE they see the DWT prices, so they know how much more I am paying than the pawn dealers.
To use this sheet, go to the "per" page, and properly fill in cells C17 and C18 which are the troy spot for fine gold and fine silver. The "spot" price listed (and used for computation) on each of the 4 pages will auto update from the "per" page, so ONLY update the spot prices there. I have a laptop, and a small pocket PC that I take with me, I fill in the spot prior to going out for a purchase, so there is no reason for the "per" page to ever be seen by the seller. It contains things you might NOT want the seller to see. "hiding" the page is not a bad idea, once the spot has been entered. The forumlas will work even if the sheet is hidden.
Once you have the proper spot filled in, then simply and carefully categorize and sort the lot into karat weights, being sure to test the pieces (I test everything with electronic, and also file to find any GF material). Then weight the "like" karat material (properly with gram or DWT, depending upon the page you are using), and simply key in the number into the orange box for that karat (or GF line). Note, stones, watch mechanics, metal springs, etc, will HAVE to be accounted for (or guessed), or the numbers will be way off. Once you have ALL of the weighted items entered, then the total pay in the upper right corner should show the total value you are willing to pay (in the percentage you are paying).
I have found this spreadsheet to be a wonderful tool, and when I have had sellers thinking that their huge (pile of crap), which there are 2 14k rings, and a 10k bracelet I want, and a BUNCH of worthless chains and such, are worth "more" than I am quoting. I simply pull out the "computer" and show them the numbers. Every time, they have agreed that the material is worth what I am quoting. I think every time, they KNOW that most of that pretty gold "colored" stuff is the crap that it is. Most in the end, do not want it, and usually will toss it all in for a few extra dollars. I take it, and have a couple flea market people I know sell it off, giving me a cut (probably so I can re-buy it again a few months later (LOL), from someone else selling their "treasures" because they need casino money.)
