tin for stannous chloride

[relpub3]

Hi

I cannot get pure tin and the tin solder I can find does not state the composition. Somebody told me that some tin solders use lead in them instead of antimony (as I have read from some of the posts in this forum).

Question:

Assuming it is really lead (and maybe other minor impurities), can I use the lead (minor part) tin (major part) solder for the tin portion in stannous chloride testing solutions?

Thanks

Alberto

 

[jimdoc]

Generally the tin solders are for lead free solder and
have 5% antimony. I think Steve sells tin on his web site.
Jim

 

[Noxx]

I use 95% tin-5% lead and it works very well

 

[aflacglobal]

I use 95% tin-5% lead and it works very well

Same here. Haven't used it but i got it from a commercial plumbing supply house. Big ass roll for $ 7 LB

 

[Irons]

Some of the new lead-free split shot fishing sinkers some are Tin. It looks on the surface like pure Tin, having compared it to the material I have.

One little hint I picked up in an ancient Qualitative Analysis book was to always leave some Tin metal in your test solution. The excess Tin will help keep the Stannous Chloride solution from oxidizing, thus lasting much longer.
A small bag of split shot will probably make enough test solution to last you a lifetime.

 

[EVO-AU]

Irons: I browse these posts from time to time for information and spotted your thread on fishing sinkers. Good thought, I never would have known.

Not trying to be nosey, but hailing from Downeast I'm curious whereabouts in the Pine Tree State you are settled. EVO :roll:

 

[Andrew W]

[img:340:404]http://eagleclawclassic.com/images/tech/non_lead.jpg[/img]

I bought some Eagle Claw lead-free sinkers at walmart hoping that they were tin, but I don't believe they were. The stannous chloride that I thought I made wasn't working with known gold solutions. I guess they were steel; does anyone know for sure? Eagle Claw's website doesn't mention it.

Here's a nice list from theodoregray for sources of tin:
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/050/index.s7.html

 

[Harold_V]

I guess they were steel;

A magnet is your friend.

Harold

 

[Irons]

[img:340:404]http://eagleclawclassic.com/images/tech/non_lead.jpg[/img]

I bought some Eagle Claw lead-free sinkers at walmart hoping that they were tin, but I don't believe they were. The stannous chloride that I thought I made wasn't working with known gold solutions. I guess they were steel; does anyone know for sure? Eagle Claw's website doesn't mention it.

Here's a nice list from theodoregray for sources of tin:
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/050/index.s7.html

The Tin sinkers are a light golden color. Look for lead-free split shot. It's all you can buy hereabouts.

 

[gotgoldfever]

These are the ones you want.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030A728?smid=A1SQJ55GUIVOGP&tag=yahoo-sg-20&linkCode=asn

 

[Scott2357]

Andrew,

Not sure about your Eagle Claws there, but apparently some are made with steel/tin or bismuth/tin combinations. Must not be much percentage of tin.

 

[Andrew W]

A magnet is your friend.

It was magnetic, good idea! Definately some iron in there.

Andrew,

Not sure about your Eagle Claws there, but apparently some are made with steel/tin or bismuth/tin combinations. Must not be much percentage of tin.

I believe that the Eagle Claw's are mostly steel with no tin. If there was any tin, I think the stannous chloride that I made would have tested positive for gold with at least a slight purple color.

Thanks for yalls help

 

[Scott2357]

How did you disolve in HCL? Solid steel would require filing unless you put in the whole sinker.

 

[Andrew W]

How did you disolve in HCL? Solid steel would require filing unless you put in the whole sinker.

I put the whole sinker into a test tube of about 10mL HCl. You're right: it didn't dissolve much at all. It reacted slightly, at first. Then I added heat, and it fizzed vigorously. It turned yellow. I let it react for a few minutes and then I tried to test a gold solution by putting a drop of the "supposed" stannous chloride onto a filter paper with a drop of the gold solution. :arrow: No dice.

 

[Lou]

Yeah, definitely iron.

I'm sure you could look around for some silver solder that's tin/silver alloy.

Or you could check with Steve, he has tin for cheap.

If you really can't get any though, I can help you out with premade SnCl2*2H2O.

 

[Scott2357]

Now I know some people don't have a Home Depot or Lowes, etc. in their country but Texas has got to have 'em. I just buy the plumber's solder which as mentioned before is 95% tin 5% antimony. Just ignore the antimony (black stuff) that settles to the bottom or filter it out if it gets in the way.

 

[Andrew W]

Now I know some people don't have a Home Depot or Lowes, etc. in their country but Texas has got to have 'em. I just buy the plumber's solder which as mentioned before is 95% tin 5% antimony. Just ignore the antimony (black stuff) that settles to the bottom or filter it out if it gets in the way.

Another good idea that I didn't think of. I actually had some solder in the toolbox, and it worked great. I apparently skipped over the post that mentioned solder...

 

[Shecker]

The other day at Ace Hardware I found a solder that runs 95% tin and 5% silver. This worked very nice for making stannous chloride.

Randy in Gunnison

 

[tlcarrig]

I agree with Scott and Shscker. The Ace Hardware lead free plumbers solder is 95% tin and 5% antimony. Mine works fine. $10 a pound though.

 

[Irons]

I agree with Scott and Shscker. The Ace Hardware lead free plumbers solder is 95% tin and 5% antimony. Mine works fine. $10 a pound though.

It doesn't take throwing away much precious metal bearing solution to make $10.

Cheap insurance.