10+ grams of scrap palladium in hammond organ

[stella polaris]

Long time I have not been posting.

I'm scrapping a newer Hammond Aurora Classic from 1971. There is no palladium on the key buss, but there is a short wire contact on the key tab that touches the buss bar. I only got two grains of the contact wire out of this machine. Have not tested it for Pd.

I am curious about this one switch with silver contacts. Some kind or rheostat maybe, I don't know, but it's got nine 1/8" rods perpendicular to he travel of two silver contacts each on eight push-pull levers. The plastic switch box is about 10" long and 2-1/2" wide, about 1-1/4" thick. Does anyone know if the nine rods might have value? Or, can anyone identify this type of switch assembly by name?

I apologize for not being able to post photos. Thanks.

I have scrapped one as well. The nine rods seems to be nickel. But have not tested them. You should get a few gold IC as well. Thats it. Not the best Hammond so to say.

 

[old thompson]

Just tested a rod with schwarter's, It turned it blue-green. Probably nickle.

I got a couple okay looking chips, and I got the organ at a price I can afford- Free.

Good thing there's like $10 worth of copper wire harness so I'll recover my fuel money.

 

[galenrog]

Being offered a Hammond H-382. Other that palladium wire, palladium contact points mentioned here and at scrapmetaljunkie.com, amplifiers, and speakers, is there anything of significant value beyond scrap prices. The organ does not work, and the owner has had it in storage for several months.

Of course, if it is a fix I can handle, I will repair and sell.

Picking up next week once I am done hauling bark, dirt, plants, etc. for the wife.

Edit: I should have gotten back last week, but life happens. The organ, rather than being given to me, was sold to a used piano and organ shop. No loss here. The seller got a decent price, and the buyer will restore it, or harvest working parts and assemblies. Me, I was simply going to scrap it.

 

[Ohiogoldfever]

I just broke down a late 70’s funmaker organ. Some nice gold legged transistors, gold tipped contacts. I’m having trouble figuring out what the bud bar material is. Silver, bright without tarnish. Heats up super fast, but cools to have a dark gray appearance. Super mailable, has almost no memory.

Thoughts?

 

[Mike18436572]

I have been having decent results removing the palladium wire from the bars with sulfuric from Lowe’s, they sell battery back up systems, and H2o2. I’ve been concentrating either the common 3% or 12% from Sally’s. It says 40 clear. I’m getting tired of concentrating H2o2. I can’t seem to find a gallon of 30%-35% for a decent price with shipping. I know an air bubbler works in AP. Will a bubbler work with the sulfuric the same way it works with hcl? I’ve tried searching for it but can’t find any info. That just might be my answer but figured I’d ask. If it would work I’d make a custom bucket to process it in. Thanks.

 

[snail]

Oxidizer for none chlorine pool chemical systems is near 30% varies by brand, the bottle always seems to be in a plastic bag. Inexpensive way to get relatively pure peroxide, kind of like tech grade acids.

 

[Mike18436572]

Is it a liquid or like a tablet? Does it have a definite name? Can you order it online? I think most pool places around here would be closed for the winter. Thanks

 

[Mike18436572]

Ok I see....it’s granulated. Maybe looks like sugar. Lowe’s and Menards carries it but not this time of year. I can order it from Amazon. It ranges from $7 a pound to $3.5 a pound depending on how much you buy. I wonder how much I’d need per liter?

 

[Yggdrasil]

I'm not sure I would use any H₂O₂ in any other form than liquid form (if it exist),
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide,
are you sure you have not mistaken it for Oxone?
Potassium peroxymonosulfate KHSO₅
Often used in pools for oxygenating.
As far as I know they serve completely different purposes.

On another level, be careful using the mix you are using, it may serve you well to find a replacement less aggressive, this one will strip your flesh of your bones.

 

[snail]

Sorry, I went To bed, it is a liquid. it is for the non chlorine treatment systems. They call it oxidizer.
comes in a gallon container shipped in a plastic bag with a warning to not let it sit in a closed car in the sun!

I learned of it on this forum years ago. I believe i paid less than $20 last time i bought it.
If you can find a store open, I'm sure they would be glad to get nit off their shelves.

Good Luck

 

[vestport]

Oh no, those poor Hammond Organs! I have dealt in electronic scrap for decades but I am also a musician. Though I don't play the keys, some of these old organs are amazing sounding and I would never tear them apart for scrap. Before you scrap a B3, A-100, A101 or similar call me! Also, if you have a Leslie I am interested in all this stuff as musical instruments. I am in Mass so it has to be close where I can pickup as these are heavy units.

 

[war_child]

I just scraped a Leslie, but this thing was hardly an instrument anymore. I doubt any of the parts were useable either. It was broken into two main pieces and had been laying outside for many years, now in 6" of standing water. It was full of leaves and nests and turds. I am currently sorting thru the components and learning about what I have in front of me. This thread may be from a while ago, but it helped me out a lot.

Thanks all. Merry Christmas!
mike

 

[war_child]

Long time I have not been posting.

I'm scrapping a newer Hammond Aurora Classic from 1971. There is no palladium on the key buss, but there is a short wire contact on the key tab that touches the buss bar. I only got two grains of the contact wire out of this machine. Have not tested it for Pd.

I am curious about this one switch with silver contacts. Some kind or rheostat maybe, I don't know, but it's got nine 1/8" rods perpendicular to he travel of two silver contacts each on eight push-pull levers. The plastic switch box is about 10" long and 2-1/2" wide, about 1-1/4" thick. Does anyone know if the nine rods might have value? Or, can anyone identify this type of switch assembly by name?

I apologize for not being able to post photos. Thanks.

Hello old thompson, I see this post is quite old, and it says you were "last seen" here over a year ago, but I was hoping you found out something about the rods you mentioned. From your description I think I may have a similar component. I was wondering if they might be silver plated. This is what mine look like:

 

[canedane]

Mayby this can help you.

Silver test​

When dissolved in an approximately 35% nitric acid solution it is called Schwerter's solution and is used to test for the presence of various metals, notably for determination of silver purity. Pure silver will turn the solution bright red, sterling silver will turn it dark red, low grade coin silver (0.800 fine) will turn brown (largely due to the presence of copper which turns the solution brown) and even green for 0.500 silver. Brass turns dark brown, copper turns brown, lead and tin both turn yellow while gold and palladium do not change.

In these tread old thompson test it with Schwerter's solution, the test was blue/green. Maybe nickel?

Henrik

 

[FrugalRefiner]

Henrik, you didn't mention the potassium dichromate that is an essential component of Schwerter's solution.

I mix mine 5 ml at a time since it does degrade over time. I put about 0.4 grams of potassium dichromate in a 5 ml dropper bottle. I add distilled water till it's about half full and give it a swirl to get things mixing. Then I add some nitric till it's about 3/4 full and swirl some more. No heat is needed and the dichromate salt goes into solution in just a few minutes. Then I top it off with nitric.

Be aware that chromium IV salts, including potassium dichromate are carcinogenic. PPE including gloves and careful technique are essential.

Dave

 

[war_child]

Oh, I see now. Old Thompson did post the exact info I was looking for. I must have scrolled right past it. I will take his word for it. I don't have any Schwerter's solution, or nitric for that matter. I was going to check here one more time, then try the method I saw on a 999dusan video. To test for silver plate, he used a couple drops of standard bleach on the items, then waited to see if it reacts. The silver-plated stuff turned dark, but the tin stayed bright. I tried it on one of the silvery fingers found on all the boards in the organ. No change. I thought it was worth a shot.
Thanks again guys.

 

[Mowrey]

I'll buy your palladium.

mowreygold.com

 

[Abdoulapapatte]

Per the underlined --- dilute nitric

Although nitric will dissolve Pd - in order to do so the nitric needs to be concentrated - that is (like dissolving silver) 67 - 70 % nitric diluted 50/50 with distilled water - AND it needs to be HOT - & even at that it is very slow at dissolving the Pd --- that is a result of where it sits on the reactive series of metals

In other words - although nitric can/will dissolve Pd - it is MUCH less reactive to the nitric then nitric reaction to metal above Pd in the reactive series - such as copper or silver which are MUCH more reactive to nitric

Therefore you can take advantage of "how reactive" nitric is to the different metals

Examples; - copper is "very" reactive to nitric - 50/50 nitric/D-water will dissolve copper without any need to heat the nitric (other then the heat created from the reaction) & it will do so in a "relatively" short time (a few hours) the example here being say 5 or 10 pounds of gold plated pins in a plastic 5 gallon bucket will dissolve the pins in 4 -5 hours

on the other hand - if you put 5 - 10 pounds of silver in a 5 gallon bucket with the same 50/50 nitric it would take several days to dissolve the silver- & then it may not dissolve all the silver (as the acid gets weaker & weaker the more metal it dissolves) which is why we put silver in a beaker & put it on a hot plate to dissolve silver --- the acid (nitric) needs the added heat of the hot plate to keep the reaction going on the silver because the silver is so much less reactive to the nitric then the reactivity of the nitric to copper

Like wise - Pd is even less reactive to nitric then it is to silver - so not only does it take heat to dissolve Pd with nitric - it also take more time to dissolve the Pd

Vous pouvez donc profiter de ce fait - vous avez un "petit" fil Pd brasé sur une barre omnibus en cuivre "mince"

par conséquent - si vous diluez le nitrique à plus de 50/50 et n'appliquez "pas" de chaleur - l'acide sera trop faible pour réagir avec le Pd - mais réagira toujours avec le cuivre --- dissolvant ainsi le cuivre mais laissez le Pd (fils) non dissous et assis au fond de votre récipient de réaction (bécher ou seau)

Gardez à l'esprit qu'il faut (environ) 4 fois plus de nitrique pour dissoudre le cuivre que pour dissoudre l'argent

Il faut (environ) 1 gallon de 67 -70 % nitrique pour dissoudre (environ) 2 livres de cuivre - alors que le même gallon de nitrique dissoudra (environ) 8 livres d'argent

Par exemple (dans votre cas), disons que vous avez 2 livres de points de barre omnibus coupés - vous aurez besoin d'environ 1 gallon de nitrique pour dissoudre le cuivre - mettez les points dans un seau de 5 gallons - mettez 2 gallons d'eau distillée dans le seau (vous ne voulez pas d'eau du robinet car le chlore dans l'eau du robinet peut faire un AR faible qui peut - ou non - entraîner la dissolution de "certains"Pd) --- puis ajoutez 1/3 à 1/2 du nitrique (je pense que vous serez en sécurité à la moitié de votre acide - parce qu'un demi-gallon d'acide dans 2 gallons d'eau est déjà dilué) laissez réagir jusqu'à ce que la réaction ralentisse vers le bas (environ 2 à 3 heures) puis ajoutez la moitié de votre acide restant - attendez que la réaction ralentisse à nouveau (encore 2 à 3 heures) puis ajoutez l'acide restant --- si vous commencez le matin - à la fin de le jour (en fonction de la température extérieure) le cuivre doit être dissous avec les fils Pd au fond du seau --- si la température extérieure est inférieure à 60 - 70 F, cela peut prendre un jour et demi à 2 jours pour se dissoudre le cuivre

Ou si vous n'avez pas de nitrique, vous pouvez "faire bouillir" les coupures dans HCL pour dissoudre la brasure au nickel afin de libérer les fils Pd des barres omnibus en cuivre --- mais vous devez ensuite "essayer" de séparer les TRÈS petits fils de les coupures de barres omnibus en cuivre beaucoup plus grandes --- une vraie douleur dans le vous savez quoi --- parce que le HCl ne dissoudra pas le cuivre ou le Pd

Ou - vous pouvez dissoudre le cuivre avec la méthode CuCl2 - mais comme dissoudre des broches plaquées or avec CuCl2 qui prendra des JOURS pour dissoudre le cuivre

Je n'ai jamais utilisé la méthode CuCl2 (parce que j'ai toujours eu du nitrique) mais si je comprends bien - avec autant de cuivre, cela pourrait prendre quelques semaines --- peut-être que quelqu'un qui en sait plus sur la méthode CuCl2 pourrait intervenir là-dessus

Kurt

hi kurt even diluted if you heat the nitric 50/50 you will have an attack of the pd, I guarantee it to you.
need to use hcl only or all refine
vincent

 

[kurtak]

hi kurt even diluted if you heat the nitric 50/50 you will have an attack of the pd, I guarantee it to you.
need to use hcl only or all refine
vincent

per the bold print - yes & correct - "if you heat the nitric" - if you don't heat the nitric (other then the heat from the reaction it's self) you can separate the Pd from the copper/brass/silver with very little or NO Pd going into solution

I have done this many times with very little (just a trace) or NO Pd dissolving & going into solution

Here is a thread where I posted a demonstration of how to do it that puts little or NO Pd into solution

IF (the BIG IF) you do it right - you will dissolve very little to NONE of the Pd

read this thread - it may explain it better

https://goldrefiningforum.com/threads/three-types-of-contacts.23091/#post-242404
Kurt

 

[Abdoulapapatte]

selon l'impression en gras - oui et correct - " si vous chauffez le nitrique " - si vous ne chauffez pas le nitrique (autre que la chaleur de la réaction elle-même), vous pouvez séparer le Pd du cuivre/laiton/argent avec très peu ou PAS de Pd en solution

Je l'ai fait plusieurs fois avec très peu (juste une trace) ou AUCUN Pd se dissolvant et entrant en solution

Voici un fil où j'ai posté une démonstration de la façon de le faire qui met peu ou pas de Pd en solution

SI (le GRAND SI) vous le faites correctement - vous vous dissoudrez très peu à AUCUN du Pd

lire ce fil - il peut mieux l'expliquer

https://goldrefiningforum.com/threads/three-types-of-contacts.23091/#post-242404
Kurt

ok kurt promise I will read this thread that looks interesting, I don't doubt that you are right eh, for my part with 1kg of aliage granailler in a 3liter beaker.
+200 ml water (for booster)
+250 ml hno3 65% (for booster)
+ad hno3 when visual decrease of the reaction
T°C 5°/ 15°C outside)
I still have a lot of palladium in solution.
(stanous chloride test).
when I treated 75kg of aliage Ag 82%/pd8%/W 10%.

WTF I got so much pd as [dmg sponge].

but I think my solution ended up heating up more than yours because it was probably in larger quantities.

I don't know?
I will read your thread and give you my opinion bye
if you want to see my result from aliage i can send picture