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A good corningware pyroceram dish can easily be found at almost any thrift store in anytown usa. Or if you cannot find one, pm me your address and i will send you one with a lid for nothing. I buy them any and every time i see them in thrift shops.
 
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Thanks!

On Edit Because I don't type on my phone.

That looks awful, but it's a lot more orange than it looks. I made quite a few mistakes along the way, but I did get through it. Thanks for all the help...getting there.

It's windy here today, and it's ripping right through the shop. I've been working on silver all day. Not sure if I ran in to some cadmium or just iron, but it did NOT make filtering very easy.
 
Tin makes it a bear to filter.
Thats why it is always suggested to remove it first, whether chemically or mechanically (or both).
Tin will also make colloidal gold, stealing it from you as well.

So, be sure to always incinerate your material if going from HCl to nitric, so you don't end up prematurely dissolving some of the gold in a weak reversed AR.

Search for a post by Harold on incineration.
 
I know...I'm pretty knowledgeable, I just don't have the equipment set up yet to roast the chlorides from an HCl leach. Hopefully in the next week or so, but everything seems to be going slow in life right now.

All in all, the silver is ALL profit after the first two ounces (to pay for the gallon of nitric)...and that was a while ago, so I can't complain too much. Doesn't mean I can't make it better though.
 
snoman701 said:
For small amounts, such as the amount to be found in say, 20 grams of chips, is the inability to filter Tin Oxide not as worriesome?

I wasnt trying to belittle, but yet answer this...
 
Topher_osAUrus said:
snoman701 said:
For small amounts, such as the amount to be found in say, 20 grams of chips, is the inability to filter Tin Oxide not as worriesome?

I wasnt trying to belittle, but yet answer this...
Knowledge but not experienced. My reading I would prefer to leach in HCl, wash, then use hcl followed by nitric to take up base metals and gold. It avoids the colloidal gold as well as filtering problems.

A more experienced member however suggested something else, which motivated my query.


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I would absolutely love to be set straight if wrong!!! That's how we learn.


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snoman701 said:
I would absolutely love to be set straight if wrong!!! That's how we learn.

Ok I'll step up to the plate and take that call. My advice to you would be to use the processes offered as described with no alterations until you can produce a decent looking piece of gold. When you can do that, then you can talk preferences. There are guys on here who can produce brilliant gold using plastic pots and second rate gear because they know how to get the process right. That's your challenge and I would respectfully suggest your starting point.

Hopefully that classes as setting you straight and I promise you absolutely no malice intended. :D

Jon
 
anachronism said:
snoman701 said:
I would absolutely love to be set straight if wrong!!! That's how we learn.

Ok I'll step up to the plate and take that call. My advice to you would be to use the processes offered as described with no alterations until you can produce a decent looking piece of gold. When you can do that, then you can talk preferences. There are guys on here who can produce brilliant gold using plastic pots and second rate gear because they know how to get the process right. That's your challenge and I would respectfully suggest your starting point.

Hopefully that classes as setting you straight and I promise you absolutely no malice intended. :D

Jon

+1 on that.

Trust me, us,...corners cannot be cut in the beginning... Not until you know for sure what ramifications that it will have, and how to alleviate the issue that it will undoubtedly cause.

We're just trying to save you some woe's,... the same one's that we ourselves have faced at one time or another.
 
I think perspectives are being missed. Let's ignore the silver. My question that was quoted by topher was very specific to the advice of goran. Going straight to ar goes against overwhelming advice in processing e scrap. The advice is usually deal with base metals first. Hence my question. It has been universally suggested to avoid tin oxide if possible.

In the case of the gold pins, I probably should have used hot HCl to digest copper to copper chloride, then take up gold with a very small amount of nitric. Trust me, on review of my mistakes with the pins, excessive nitrates are to be avoided as well.

I am reading the forum probably 2-3 hrs a night....should likely stop reading and do more benchwork, but other roadblocks deter this.


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snoman701 said:
g_axelsson said:
For assaying a component I usually go for nitric acid, easy to work with and fast. Dissolve the base metals, wash by decanting, add HCl and dissolve the gold. Filter, precipitate, wash, dry, melt, weigh (or calculate the weight).

I started a small assay like this today. But I did it backwards....somewhat. I crushed the chip, soaked in HCl until it stopped bubbling. Then filtered. Once I filtered, I then added Nitric & HCl to dissolve base metals and PM's.

Goal with the HCl wash initially was to get the tin, prior to using Nitric so as to avoid tin oxide. In the end, I was just trying to skip the roast, as I can't seem to find my roasting dish.

For small amounts, such as the amount to be found in say, 20 grams of chips, is the inability to filter Tin Oxide not as worriesome?
I would like to clarify that the "components" I was talking about was connectors or other metallic components without any gold hidden inside plastic. Like the pins at the top of this thread.

For chips in plastic capsule I would incinerate it well to get rid of any carbon, then depending on the composition I would select different methods. Electronic components can be so different so there isn't one method to cover them all unless you have a fire assay setup. But even for a fire assay you have to make adjustments depending on what material you have to get a good result.

I'm not that worried for tin, decant or slow filtering is bearable when the volumes are small. And in AR as long as you have oxidizer left any colloid is immediately dissolved.

Göran
 
snoman701 said:
I think perspectives are being missed. Let's ignore the silver. My question that was quoted by topher was very specific to the advice of goran. Going straight to ar goes against overwhelming advice in processing e scrap. The advice is usually deal with base metals first. Hence my question. It has been universally suggested to avoid tin oxide if possible.

In the case of the gold pins, I probably should have used hot HCl to digest copper to copper chloride, then take up gold with a very small amount of nitric. Trust me, on review of my mistakes with the pins, excessive nitrates are to be avoided as well.

I am reading the forum probably 2-3 hrs a night....should likely stop reading and do more benchwork, but other roadblocks deter this.


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My advice wasn't to go straight to AR, it was to dissolve the base metals in nitric, then wash it lightly and in step 3 add some HCl. The remaining nitrates is often enough to dissolve the gold and you avoid the problem with excess nitric.

And this was regarding the connectors at the beginning.

I still prefer to use nitric for removing the copper from pins when running a small sample, test tube sized. Why wait a week for copper chloride to work when I can have the whole process done in an afternoon? And if you produced a lot of metastannic, an incineration before going to AR takes care of most of that problem.

Göran
 
Completely agree with you...too many topics in one thread. I thought you were saying one chip could be assayed chemically, which is why I questioned the tin.

The only reason I would do copper chloride now is because then I'd have started copper chloride to do some fingers.


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