Build mercury retort

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saadat68,

The blue pipe (added there), drawn in your design (picture) would defeat the proper operation of the pipe retort. Do not mess with the welded sealed inner pipe.

actually you cant add it to the outer pipe where the torch is introducing flames and extremely hot gases.

The hot gases, and Hg fumes are condensed in the water at the bottom of the inner pipe and then after flowing through the small hole in the bottom of that pipe (below water level), the hot gases bubble up through the chilled water into the outer pipe, where the cooled non water soluble gases would enter up the outer pipe, where your torch would volatilize any combustible fumes.

Good retorts are cheap and easy to buy, buy one, or stick with a known working design, do not alter it, there is science behind this, which you are unaware of, the working designs are made with these principles taken into account, and experimenting without a deep understanding of that science or principles would be well just a foolish thing to do, find a new one and be done with it, and keep your health to enjoy your gold..
 
Thank you jason and butcher
Today I find a gasket that it's thermal resistance is 450 °C
http://atbfa.sabaec.com/host/atbfa/newpdf/Ferolitespecial.pdf

I think it is good and can use it. Isn't it ?

So I can use conventional design
http://nevada-outback-gems.com/Reference_pages/Retort01.jpg
 
Conventional design (in the picture you posted), works well if you use it properly.

Understanding how to properly setup, and use the equipment is just as important as having the proper equipment. It does not work well or at all if used incorrectly.

Note:
In my opinion, I do see something wrong in the picture, the discharge pipe should not be under water.
If the retort is heated, and the temperature is lowered it will create a vacuum and suck back the cold water into the hot retort, which could shatter it in a possible implosion (backwards explosion). using a wet sock on the end of the discharge pipe --with the discharge pipe inside the wet sock but above water, and the lower part of the sock dipping into the water to keep it wet and cool.
 
Thanks butcher yes I know palladium said me before
It is just image

I am worry about gasket. 450 centigrade temp resistance is enough ?
 
I am very hopeless
My retort and also my burner don't work. Both of them don't work!!!
I just wast my time and my money.

This is my retort :
It has a little leak. ( very little )

http://uupload.ir/files/aazc_img_20170822_191519.jpg

http://uupload.ir/files/twcg_img_20170822_191525.jpg
 
If it is the gasket leaking , you can get high temp gasket papers, or make a copper gasket, and use powdered graphite mixed in a little motor oil to seal it. if it is in the weld drill or clean the hole and re-weld it.

The gasket (or copper) can be made with a ball pien hammer, holding the gasket sheet steady and hammering against the sharp edges of the steel to cut your gasket. for the center cut an X so the gasket is not pushed into the hole by the hammer, the bolt holes are first cut with the round part of the ball pien hammer, if they do not cut all the way through use one of your bolts to hammer it on through (like a paper punch).

You may also need to flatten your flange, start with a good flat file (not too coarse of teeth, hold the file flat when you file diagonally across the surface (forward direction only), then get a flat level board lay a glass pane on it, then a sheet of sandpaper, sand the flange on the paper in circular motions until the flange is flat as the glass.
If done right (all you may need) to seal it could just be the graphite and oil, not too much oil just make a thick paste to brush on the flange or gaskets, a thick layer is fine, the oil will burn out of the graphite...

You are not hopeless, and neither is your retort, or your burner, just do not give up so easily, you are almost there, you are just not finished yet. Unless you quit, quitters never win, persistence ( or trying until you get it will. Where would we be today if Edison, and others quit when things did not go right (the first or the hundredth time they tried)? We would still be reading by the campfires in our caves.

You are almost there I can see light at the end of the tunnel (Cave).
 
Saadat, if you make the gasket out of cobber like Butcher told, heat it up with a gas burner and drop it into water, the cobber will be soft again, and will be a better gasket.
Henrik
 
Thanks, Henrik good point.

Copper is work hardened by hammering or bending...
Annealing the copper as canedane recommends would be important to soften the work hardened copper.
 
Keep your copper gasket small. You only want it to be about a centimeter wide. If you can make one out of say, 4 or 6mm copper wire, and solder the ends together with silver solder, then anneal it, it'll be best.
 
Sorry, long time jewelery mistake....silver braze. Silver solder is sold in four grades...super easy, easy, medium and hard :)

My point was just to minimize the surface area of the gasket so that you get greater sealing force at the gasket interface. The nice thing about the #6 copper wire is that it will flatten right out, and in the process, form a super tight seal.
 
butcher said:
If done right (all you may need) to seal it could just be the graphite and oil, not too much oil just make a thick paste to brush on the flange or gaskets, a thick layer is fine, the oil will burn out of the graphite...
Click to expand...

Thanks all
I don't understand
Do I use copper gasket and graphite powder together to seal retort ?
I like to make copper gasket and test it if it doesn't need graphite powder

---------------------
My gasket wasn't soft
http://atbfa.sabaec.com/host/atbfa/newpdf/Aerolite1000.pdf
http://uupload.ir/files/ifsz_img_20170824_133534.jpg

Yesterday when I opened my retort and flanges, I saw the gasket has been very softer than before so I decided to test retort again with water and it works. :)
But I must close flanges very tight with screws
 
The graphite gasket you have will work with flat flanges, bolted together, you can keep it in good condition and reusable by using the powdered graphite and a little oil, we discussed.

pencil lead, is not lead, but it is made from (carbon) graphite, it is more trouble than buying powered graphite, but you can split several pencils and powder the black (lead) graphite, mix to a paste with a tiny bit of oil, and use it for a high temp gasket sealant, and corrosion inhibitor. It can be used with many different types of gaskets,to help make them seal better, in high temperature applications, even the copper gaskets...

besides being a sealant, and corrosion inhibitor, it is also a great lubricant to keep parts or fitting (threads...) from seizing or galling under the higher working temperatures...

If you use it to lube locks (one use for powdered graphite lubricants) (and a possible source for small amounts of the black powder), do not use oil with any graphite in a lock mechanism. Use the graphite powder dry, oil can collect dirt in a locks mechanism.
 
OK, Understood
Thank you
As you said my gasket has some graphite and it is cheap just 3$. Graphite powder is not and I don't think can find it, But I can buy a graphite gasket that after what you said it will be a better sealer

--------------------

What happen if retort has a very little leak? For example 5 drop of water in 30 minute with below conditions

I want to add one kilo cemented silver from silver oxide batteries in retort that it may contains 2 to 4 gram of mercury.
I think there isn't pressure in retort, So if sometimes retort has a little leak, does mercury go out from retort? Is it dangerous ?
 
The pencils (you write with) are made of graphite powders, the black part that makes the black lines on paper.
the gasket you have are made from graphite powders and a bonding (glue) compounds.
The old used up gaskets you have could be used for a source of graphite powders...
 
If you have stores that sell art supplies, you can usually get a large chunk of graphite to draw with, or even powdered graphite in a jar.

Another source that might be easy to find in a junk yard is carbon brushes from motors.
 
Thanks all
I got it
Now I must fix my burner
http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8471&p=276311#p276311
 

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