Confused how to best remove THIS

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Yeah, wont be making much poorman ar with nitrite, the suffix is pretty critical.

No worries though, use the nitrite to precipitate the gold, get some nitrate to dissolve it.
 
This won't be my first mess up in lettering. I have Hcl. 36% . As I mentioned I am buying the chemicals and building the lab. Not purifying anything yet. But I thought HCL and Sodium Nitrate = poor man's aqua Regia. In fact almost any nitrates work??? Or has my chemistry gone totally haywire well this is going on the shelve
 
Ok so looking through the list I find that Sodium NitrAte is 10 times more expensive than potassium Nitrate.


I am steering clear of Amonia nitrate for obvious reasons. Open to suggestions. £100 per kilo vrs £14 per kilo??
 
Uh, thats quite the hefty pricetag for a simple fertilizer found most everywhere..

I just buy nitrate of soda,by hi-yield (they also sell copperas, and potassium nitrate [-stump killer]), recrystalize it, and Im good to go.
KNO3 works fine too. It is sold as spectracide stump remover.
SMB can also be sold as stump remover, except under the brand name bonide. MSDS are your best friend, er, SDS now (I guess)

Also, these names are only good for people in the US and Canadia. Across the pond, no idear.
 
As an aside it’s amazing you can’t buy nitric acid easily as it’s so dangerous and potentially a bomb making ingredient but the nitrates which are even easier to be stupid with you can get in most stores...
 
Oh please don't get me started. I understand why they removed some chemicals but honestly it's stupid. If you want to do a stupid act as mentioned above you don't need to be a rocket scientist. You can buy all everything you need in a supermarket or even make it...

Anyway. Potassium nitrate should be just as good.
 
Obstacles. But I will prevail. I just noticed any nitrate a pain in the UK as well. ??? Hold on it mentions acetone. Damn I am in trouble then. I use that with fibreglass resin and a few other probably now illegal or highly restricted things. Joyful.


I looked up stump removal as mentioned. Finding one in the UK is not too difficult and crystalizing it is easy. But how ling do you normally wait to before you filter it?

And what to look for. The one I seen is potassium Nitrate. UK
 
I know I just said that. Hence going down the road if stump removal. The one I am looking at contains potassium Nitrate. So I can crystallize it. Alts.. But I prefer not to use is HCL PEROXIDE heat
 
Just found where I can legally buy potassium Nitrate. Yes I got it right. Nitrate. UK

Legally and they said my use is justified.
 
I sent you a PM with my mobile number bud. But I talked to my friend (the chemist) who is coming over tomorrow. I advised him of my chemicals required and he is worried.... :eek: OK time to hit the brakes.... I am all for safety.... so I am and had NO plans to do it without him anyway....


His main concern is the use of Potassium Nitrate... Which I obtained. And that I have 36% HCL.

Now I know I can produce from this and with my 12% Hydrogen Peroxide with processing Nitric Acid... BUT I don't and WONT do this...

My understanding was to use the Potassium Nitrate with HCL and start making "P.AR" But he rightly worried about what chemical reaction would occur... And worried about potential explosion :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: Ok So now he has my attention even more. We work great as a team and he knows this is a hobby for me. Until today I have been gathering scrap gold and putting it into hoards of piles..... and then also lab equipment. Vents, Glass tops, bottoms etc. But since I havnt mentioned to him my buying spree of chemicals he suddenly thought I was going to be a JOE blogs and do it on my own. I advised him HECK no and I am searching around and doing a lot of research about the Potassium Nitrate.

I was under the impression ( which is always a wise thing to check as I am doing before doing ANYTHING) that to make Poor mans AR or P.AR you add a nitrate and Hydrochloric acid... But this is a acid and a base//// not a Acid and a Acid. So We are going to do a major Chemistry lesson so to speak tomorrow. He works with this and a heck of a lot more toxic things than I will ever get my hands on... But as pointed out he knows the dangers as do I of when it goes wrong it goes wrong fast! So I have been forbidden to buy anything until I have a further lesson. He is going to bring with him some type of sheet that he will make tonight. Joyfull. I am being schooled. But better safe than sorry.
 
I just looked on the chart... it doesn't say acidic at all. I bought 6KG of this in 99.3% KNO3, may contain anticaking agent.



The only warning is for fire. Obvious. but some will use it for other illegal things.
 
hi First time I ever contributed to GRF
the sealed automotive box some have a hard resin in them others a soft sticky gel Yamaha outboards use what looks like a type of polysulfide with grit in it just to make sure you cant get in to fix it
no idea of PM content but put some hard and soft ones in my pyrolysis oven for 1 hour at 420C. worked a treat
the insides were ash including the PCB everything fell out leaving me nice clean ally and number 2 burnt copper from the wiring loom.
so far so good PROFIT and still have the metals from the PCB to sort out.
On the down side I have found that anything I cook in the pyrolysis oven comes out covered in ash if this is left on it draws moisture out of the air overnight turns sticky then needs washing in water otherwise beads of blue
acid/liquid appear and quickly eat away at the metals ( I cooked 300kg of fairy lights not a single strand of copper left after a week normally 75kg if washed same day ) I am new to all this and no chemist but did read that pvc is made with 52% salt that creates the acid ?
so I am sorry to disagree with the others and think these boxes are well worth looking at as long as you can control the emissions from the pyrolysis some of the boards I have seen look really rich also found satellite dish heads are sometimes sealed in the same way
 
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