Fiber CPU's - That's how i do them

Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
xelexo
Advertise with us
Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
All that info is there use search function.
Gold is primarily located on pins, on and under heatspreaders. Some members crush remaining ceramic body of CPU after gold was extracted from mentioned places to get any gold which may be inside. However that will be minuscule amount and may be reasonable to do it only if you acquire large quantities of them.
 
joedirt said:
Sam,

Thanks a lot for the detailed response. I'm looking forward to the next part of the tutorial. This discussion leads me to another thing that has been bothering me, which is the benefit of purifying the gold to over 99%. I live in the Houston, TX area and have not found anybody who can test to this purity. As a matter of fact I had to go out of the Houston city limits to sell the melted gold because an ordinance was passed to stop jewelers from buying it; I think for the same reason that scrap metal buyers have to have ID and fingerprints from sellers. I sell to a jeweler, and as far as I can tell, he can only test to 22 carat. My thoughts are to not dissolve the gold and drop with SMB. Again does anyone have any thought on the purity of the gold before the dissolving and dropping with SMB?

JD
Click to expand...


JD

Don't stop shopping around your area.

If you just melt it as it is with the filter, gold contant can be anywhere from 90-99%, crapshoot, i don't know, that's totally up to you and how you do things.
In this case, both you and your buyer will have no clue about gold content.

In any case, you can always sell refined gold on line, if you are trusted, people will buy from you at spot price or near it, after fees you wil probaby be left with 90-95% of the spot gold value, i think that manageable, given your situation.

You also can refine it, then alloy it back to 22K or less to sell like that to your jewelr, though i doubt it will be better price (per gram of gold conent)then 24K gold.
 
Hi aarontm1985 and Dutcherkan

Patnor is right, the info is here on the forum.
When i'll get the chance and have enough ceramic's I'll make a guide of my own for it.

dig it up. :idea: :mrgreen:

Good luck
 
hi thx 4 that will look 4ward to it

im having troble with the gold drop added the smb and nothing
and one thing if i get the gold drop on this attempt how do i wash it and dry any ideas thx
 
aarontm1985 said:
hi thx 4 that will look 4ward to it

im having troble with the gold drop added the smb and nothing
and one thing if i get the gold drop on this attempt how do i wash it and dry any ideas thx
Click to expand...

You will need to post more details.

What scrap exactly did you processed, how much of it and what process did you used ?

This way, we could understand (maybe) what went wrong, if at all.
 
aarontm1985 said:
hi thx 4 that will look 4ward to it
Click to expand...

Let me give you a friendly tip.

Lose the texting lingo if you expect to have a pleasant visit on this forum, especially if you hope to get advice from those of us with experience, speak in clear, concise English, using punctuation and capitalization as required. We don't appreciate anything posted that lends itself to being confusing. If you don't have enough time to use acceptable protocol, I expect few of us will have enough time to waste in answering any questions you may have.

Thanks for your cooperation and understanding.

Harold
 
Hi all

I remove all the pins on that I could see on my 4 junk motherboards. Can put them with the cpu pins and recover the gold? And next I'm going to work on pci and memory slots for recovery of gold.

Jack
 
Hi - I am new to the forum and am looking for the refining tutorial. Has it been finished yet? If so can someone link me to it please?

The information on here has been very useful so far. Thankyou.
 
Obi said:
Hi - I am new to the forum and am looking for the refining tutorial. Has it been finished yet? If so can someone link me to it please?

The information on here has been very useful so far. Thankyou.
Click to expand...
I think HAROLD and LAZERSTEVE have the link to HOKE on their signature line. Welcome to the forum, and enjoy the reading! Between that book, and the search bar, you'll be on your way to a great foundation with all this.
 
Hi. I want to ask a question here. But I can see this post is a little old.
Want to open this up again as this actually is the Q&A post for fiber CPU's and HCl leach.

I started a batch with fiber CPU pins today, and boiled it for 3 hours in HCl in a erlenmeyer flask. The solution turned green pretty fast, that is copper right?
I sat up a condensation setup with a cork and a tube, I watched it for an full hour and the evaporation rate did not seem to be very high, so I left it to do something else for about 2 hours, and then the acid got boiled off, it was all dry when I got out again :p Good experience ;) It was a little as 350W I used on the hotplate, but this in fact seems like too much. The first lessons comes forward ;)

But I just poured in some fresh HCl and let it stand COLD for 4 hours more. But nothing major happened. The foils have not been separated from the pin, but the solution has a deep green colour, so it seems like most of the pins were copper-based, because this copper has cemented onto just about all of the pins.. I read that this could happen in this very post if it was both kovar based pins, and copper based pins. Facinating.

So.. Should I add some more HCl and also a little H2O2 to this solution and just dissolve everything beside the gold, filter it and proceed with a HCl wash and then AR? Im also going to test it after filtering, with stannous obviously.
I can't think of a better way to clean this up, but that is why I ask if anyone else have some tips? Especially you Sam that is the author of this guide ;)

Thanks :)
 
If these pins on the CPU's were made of kovar, you could have made ferrous chloride, a green solution, as well as nickel and cobalt in solution, copper is not the only solution that looks green, although copper does give a green or blue solution.

it could also be copper, one way to tell would be to add clean iron to the solution (after you checked for gold), if copper is in this solution it would plate out onto the iron as the copper colored metal you can recognize. The green solution that did not plate out would then most likely be iron, cobalt, or nickel.

Decant this leach; let it settle well, there may be some fine gold powder liberated.

Continue to leach for base metals, HCl and 3% peroxide will help to remove base metals, as long as you are leaching these base metals, without dissolving your gold, you are removing these other metals and getting closer to recovering and then refining the gold
 
Hehe OK butcher, thanks ;)

Yes it is indeed tiny flakes of gold floating in the solution. This have settled all night and day now, so I will do what you suggest, decant the green solution into anther flask without distubing the powder/pins, test it for gold, then try some iron in it, and just resume with leaching of the metals in the first flask :) Good analytical procedure for finding out what to expect of these pins in the future :)
 
Dude4ever

I'll second every word Butcher said.

Also, to save on the acid consumption, remember that most chlorides salt are soluble in water, some to better degree then others.
If you happen to run in such situation again, you might want to first dissolve as much salts crystals with boiling hot water, then go on with acid to go after oxides, anhydrous Chloride compound and base metals as per Butcher instructions.
 
samuel-a said:
Dude4ever

I'll second every word Butcher said.

Also, to save on the acid consumption, remember that most chlorides salt are soluble in water, some to better degree then others.
If you happen to run in such situation again, you might want to first dissolve as much salts crystals with boiling hot water, then go on with acid to go after oxides, anhydrous Chloride compound and base metals as per Butcher instructions.
Click to expand...

Hmm. Makes sense :)

You are right on Sam, I used a clear excess of acid to leach the rest of the batch. But I did what I wrote earlier, and now I have some beautiful foils in my solution ready to be filtered ;) but this was valuable information, I did several different processor types at once, that was probably the issue, pins weighted in at 16g, not a large batch, but that was the point.

What butcher said was what I thought at first, so that seemed right to do. But as you said, too much acid got consumed, and I have a lot to filter at this point. So next time I will use water, but should I decant the water boil through a filter also?

Thanks guys ;)
 
Dude4ever said:
but should I decant the water boil through a filter also?
Click to expand...

Yes, the preceeding water wash and the following acids wash would be considered as one.

Remember that micron scale gold particles may easly be washed away, that's why, it is advised to filter any liquid that comes in contact with the gold.
Either filter it all, or combine all washes and allow to settle for few days, later siphon the majority of liquid.


Dude4ever, you are on the right track. I'm looking forward seeing your results.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top