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Lou said:
Geo said:
I forgot to add, if you are melting by torch, there will be some contamination. Even if you start with chemically pure gold, if you melt it with a torch with a copper tip, it will have copper contamination. It may not be much but when you are talking about purity, it doesn't take much. Borax will soak up that small amount of copper contamination.


Very astute observation.

For this reason, high purity gold that I make is melted in glassy carbon.

Lou

Yes - Harold often made mention of the fact that your torch tip can be a source of contaminating you gold - especially if you don't keep your torch tip "clean" & well maintained

But - (assuming you are keeping your torch tip clean & well maintained) how much contamination are we talking about here

I mean - lets say you have 100 gram of 9995 gold (so "about" 3 ozt) is enough copper going to come of your torch tip to effectively reduce that 9995 gold to 998 gold (so from better the 3 nine to less then 3 nine)

I ask because that would represent 1.5 tenths of a gram of copper in such a melt - that seems like a lot of copper coming off the (clean) torch tip during such a melt

I understand that for a refiner that works for clients that "call for" gold of 4 - 6 nines special precautions &/or techniques are required to insure the purity meets what the client calls for --- but is enough copper going to come off a "clean" torch tip to reduce the purity of the small &/or hobby refiner such that it reduces the purity that it is going to effects their pay out when they go to sell their gold ???

Kurt
 
kurtak said:
Geo said:
Even though it's possible and some people do it that way, it is recommended that you glaze a melting dish to torch melt gold.

Correct - glazing a dish has always been recommended - as it should be - especially if you are doing small melts of just a "few" grams (as already explained/discussed) --- its just not "necessary"

Jon can correct me if I am wrong - but I don't think he made his comment "as a recommendation" - he was simply making a point that it is not "necessary" --- in other words doable --- to which - being how it came up I felt the need to post a more detailed explanation of the pros & cons to melting in a glazed or unglazed dish

Keep in mind - as I pointed out - "over" glazing a dish can/will present its own problems - something rarely mentioned - people are just told to glaze their dish

The point being - Jon was/is not wrong &/or posting mis-information in "pointing out" that it is not "necessary" to glaze your dish - in fact - IMO - Jon pointing out the fact that it is not necessary to glaze a dish opened this "fact" for discussion such that it provides members the opportunity to make a decision based on their circumstance

Let me put it this way --- why would I waste the half hour or so it takes me to "properly" glaze a dish in a situation where it is not necessary

Example; - say I have a ozt or more of karat scrap I want to melt to pour shot to go to AR (assuming of course I don't already have a glazed dish handy for the job) why would I waste a half hour of my time to do this melt - when it is not necessary

IMO - telling me I "need" to glaze my dish - is in fact mis-information :!:

There is one more thing about using a unglazed dish that should be pointed out - if you are melting impure gold powders - the impurities tend to forum oxides (of the base metals) "on the surface" of your molten gold - you don't always see them while the gold is molten - but they will be clearly evident when the gold cools --- because these oxides tend to be on the surface of the molten gold - & if you are using an unglazed dish - when you roll the gold in the dish - to pick up beads - &/or when you make the pour - the gold tends to roll out from under these oxides with the oxides hanging up on the rough surface &/or on the pour spout lip of the unglazed dish - the slower you roll the gold &/or slower the pour the more likely the gold is to roll/pour out from under the oxides - leaving the oxides hung up on the rough surface of the unglazed dish --- these oxides will show up as a streak as the gold rolls out from under it - if it's a bead of pure gold that hangs up on the rough surface of the unglazed dish - it will show up as a bead instead of a streak - which can then be picked back up by bring the larger pool of molten gold back around to it

What does that mean? --- it means when melting your powders (assuming your melt is big enough to work properly in an unglazed dish) you can use the dish to "somewhat" determine if your gold is actually clean or not by doing a "slow" roll of the molten gold in the dish to see if oxides hang up on the rough surface

If so - & you are thinking ahead - you can have your water bucket for pouring shot already hand & you can decide to pour it to shot for going back to AR - rather then pouring it to a mold & ending up having to re-melt the mold pour to make shot for AR again

IMO - recommending glazing a dish should certainly stand as the "standard recommendation" --- but trying to discredit not glazing a dish as an option does not serve the purpose of this forum which is to provide information such that members can make informed decisions that best serve their circumstances

I hope between the fact that Jon brought the point to light & my efforts to explain the pros & cons has served that purpose

Kurt


am will use this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Casting-Kit-Tongs-Quartz-Silica-Melting-Dish-Ingot-Mold-Graphite-Crucible-/252208978089?hash=item3ab8d398a9:g:FYAAAOSwfZ1WZ5z2
 
Kurt, technique can also cause contamination when using a torch. Even if the torch is new. If you move the torch too close to the melt, the heat from the melt and the blow back from the torch can cause oxidation of the copper tip. Also, what ever you use to pick the dish up with (tongs, pliers), if you put anything over the lip of the dish, and especially while the flame is still on the gold, will cause contamination.
We are talking about maybe mg's at best and it only matters if you are melting relatively pure gold. If your gold is .9990 starting out and the torch causes .0002g of contamination, you still wind up with less than .999 gold. For most, this is not enough to worry about. Borax will absorb that much contamination and maybe more.
So using good work practices and good hygiene will improve your quality of work and you can produce a great product and still cause contamination in the end of it at the melt. Borax is sort of a safety net to keep your gold as pure as it can be after the melt. Personally, I don't think it's misinformation telling people they need to use borax in the melt. As a matter of fact, the opposite might be true, IMO.
Eventually, it will make it to youtube where someone says "hey, you don't need to use borax when you melt gold" and then we get a big influx of newcomers wanting to know why they keep getting contamination after the melt. I think it should be common practice to instruct all newbies to use borax and then explain the correct way to use it.
 
kurtak said:
Lou said:
Geo said:
I forgot to add, if you are melting by torch, there will be some contamination. Even if you start with chemically pure gold, if you melt it with a torch with a copper tip, it will have copper contamination. It may not be much but when you are talking about purity, it doesn't take much. Borax will soak up that small amount of copper contamination.


Very astute observation.

For this reason, high purity gold that I make is melted in glassy carbon.

Lou

Yes - Harold often made mention of the fact that your torch tip can be a source of contaminating you gold - especially if you don't keep your torch tip "clean" & well maintained

But - (assuming you are keeping your torch tip clean & well maintained) how much contamination are we talking about here

I mean - lets say you have 100 gram of 9995 gold (so "about" 3 ozt) is enough copper going to come of your torch tip to effectively reduce that 9995 gold to 998 gold (so from better the 3 nine to less then 3 nine)

I ask because that would represent 1.5 tenths of a gram of copper in such a melt - that seems like a lot of copper coming off the (clean) torch tip during such a melt

I understand that for a refiner that works for clients that "call for" gold of 4 - 6 nines special precautions &/or techniques are required to insure the purity meets what the client calls for --- but is enough copper going to come off a "clean" torch tip to reduce the purity of the small &/or hobby refiner such that it reduces the purity that it is going to effects their pay out when they go to sell their gold ???

Kurt


At many small clients I consult for that are melting small lots and refining on an output basis, not a fire assay basis/sum, their tips are often quite purple and not very clean. Soda ash from cleaning the dishes is a big offender.

Although I torch melt gold (up to about 50 oz with a rose bud). But if you ask whether or not melting with a clean torch tip will affect the purity and payout--I doubt it. A dirty torch tip can easily knock something down from 99,95 to 99,92.

Melting should be a purifying operation. Very high purity gold doesn't get borax.

In my opinion, for people here, a little borax is a good thing.
 
Topher_osAUrus said:
Pure gold requires no flux.

Only a thin layer of borax glazed on the dish to capture any impurities you may have missed.

After a couple times of being in solution, and proper washing and rinsing techniques, you should have no contaminants though.


washing and rinsing techniques ehm...

and what can i use for that and how do i do that
 
Yes, that will work fine.

When heated it puffs up some, then becomes fluid and can run well and spread around the dish nicely.

I honestly haven't watched it, but here is a video by another member showing how to glaze your dish
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=24917
 
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