Nitric storage issue

[justinhcase]

Passivation of the 300 series of stainless is typically accomplished with nitric and potassium dichromate.

Harold

I have just bought a 30L stainless steel drum for my acid store.
I was just going to flush out with nitric to pacify the interior.
Could you expand on your use of potassium dichromate for this treatment.
And if potassium dichromate helps to pacify stainless steel and builds up a more resilient layer than straight nitric,might that be used for reverse A.R. when you are dealing with low grade S.S. that you can barely pacify through normal means.
Or is that lightly to interfere with the creation of gold and P.G.M. chlorides.
Much thanks
J

 

[snoman701]

If you can find them, I know that all of the Firestone and Buehler stainless milk cans I have ever had were 303 SS.

But I think I'll probably go the beer keg route myself. I just have to find someone to drink the beer.

 

[FrugalRefiner]

But I think I'll probably go the beer keg route myself. I just have to find someone to drink the beer.

I always try my best to help our members. I'm available! :lol:

Dave

 

[snoman701]

I gave up drinking...I was never good at drinking, so I stopped. Then when I tried starting again I found out I'm allergic.

Where are you in Ohio? If not too far off, I'll pay for the keg, you can pick it up and empty it, then I'll pick it up empty.

I don't even know how much a keg costs these days!

 

[aga]

HDPE is what nitric acid is stored and transported in, at up to 68% azeotropic concentration.

The OP photo shows a white/opaque HDPE container with a foaming Blue liquid in it.

Check out the white bits with the bubbles in the OP photo.

Edit:
corrected spelling errors and misassumptions.

 

[justinhcase]

303 do you all use food grade equipment?
316 thank you.

 

[goldsilverpro]

HDPE is what nitric acid is stored and transported in, at up to 68% azeotropic concentration.

The OP photo shows a white/opaque HDPE container with a foaming Blue liquid in it.

Check out the white bits with the bubbles in the OP photo.

Edit:
corrected spelling errors and misassumptions.

I don't agree with either statement. Before making definite statements like those, I would suggest you know, without a doubt, that what you are saying is true.

Over the years, I've had a number of colored buckets and other colored PE containers that looked nearly identical to the blue container in the photo. It seems the dye leaches or bleaches out with the acid. Nitric is a strong oxidizer. You're not seeing a foamy blue solution in a white container. You're seeing a blue container that, in certain areas, has had it's color removed. It looks like the areas of removal are in places where the fumes would gather above the solution (maybe). Also, maybe, when molding the container, those areas that are white are relatively thin and that's why they discolored. Whatever, what you are seeing is a damaged container, in my estamation. Since having this happen a few times, I only use buckets and other PE containers that are white or translucent. My favorite buckets are the 5 gallon translucent ones from Lowes that have the graduations on them - both gallons and liters, I'm thinking. I don't trust any colored PE container, especially over the long haul. The orange Home Depot buckets seem to be the worst in discoloring.

I do agree that the acid in the photo should be transferred to a more suitable container.

Legally, I'm pretty sure that technical grade nitric, whether 67 or 68%, must be sold in a 304 SS container. This may depend on the state laws but, nowadays, I doubt it. I do think that one gallon nitric containers can be HDPE but anything bigger must be 304 SS. About 18 years ago, in Texas, a 5 gallon nitric container could be PE but anything larger had to be 304 SS. About 10 years later, I'm thinking that even the 5 gallon containers in Texas had to be SS.

 

[justinhcase]

304: The basic alloy. Type 304 (18-8) is an austenitic steel possessing a minimum of 18% chromium and 8% nickel, combined with a maximum of 0.08% carbon. It is a nonmagnetic steel which cannot be hardened by heat treatment, but instead. must be cold worked to obtain higher tensile strengths.
The 18% minimum chromium content provides corrosion and oxidation resistance. The alloy's metallurgical characteristics are established primarily by the nickel content (8% mm.), which also extends resistance to corrosion caused by reducing chemicals. Carbon, a necessity of mixed benefit, is held at a level (0.08% max.) that is satisfactory for most service applications.
The stainless alloy resists most oxidizing acids and can withstand all ordinary rusting. HOWEVER, IT WILL TARNISH. It is immune to foodstuffs, sterilizing solutions,
For severe environments. Of course, there are many industrial processes that require a higher level of resistance to corrosion than Type 304 can offer. For these applications, Type 316 is the answer.
Type 316 is also austenitic, non-magnetic, and thermally nonhardenable stainless steel like Type 304. The carbon content is held to 0.08% maximum, while the nickel content is increased slightly. What distinguishes Type 316 from Type 304 is the addition of molybdenum up to a maximum of 3%.
Molybdenum increases the corrosion resistance of this chromium-nickel alloy to withstand attack by many industrial chemicals and solvents, and, in particular, inhibits pitting caused by chlorides. As such, molybdenum is one of the single most useful alloying additives in the fight against corrosion.

 

[goldsilverpro]

Whatever, but those 55 gallon nitric SS drums you pay a $1000, or so, deposit on, are 304 (maybe 304L but probably not). Same with the 15 gallon carboys. I have never seen a 5 gallon SS nitric container, but I would bet they are 304 (maybe 304L).

 

[justinhcase]

Whatever, but those 55 gallon nitric SS drums you pay a $1000, or so, deposit on, are 304 (maybe 304L but probably not). Same with the 15 gallon carboys. I have never seen a 5 gallon SS nitric container, but I would bet they are 304 (maybe 304L).

We have quite a good glut of stainless drums/
I can get Stainless steel drum 316 grade,45 gallon for £175 and the 30L one I picked up for £100.
All stamped 316.
If you are paying over $1000 may be I should send you some.

 

[anachronism]

Whatever, but those 55 gallon nitric SS drums you pay a $1000, or so, deposit on, are 304 (maybe 304L but probably not). Same with the 15 gallon carboys. I have never seen a 5 gallon SS nitric container, but I would bet they are 304 (maybe 304L).

We have quite a good glut of stainless drums/
I can get Stainless steel drum 316 grade,45 gallon for £175 and the 30L one I picked up for £100.
All stamped 316.
If you are paying over $1000 may be I should send you some.

£99 FOR A 55 gallon 316 Justin Proves your point even more.

 

[goldsilverpro]

Whatever, but those 55 gallon nitric SS drums you pay a $1000, or so, deposit on, are 304 (maybe 304L but probably not). Same with the 15 gallon carboys. I have never seen a 5 gallon SS nitric container, but I would bet they are 304 (maybe 304L).

We have quite a good glut of stainless drums/
I can get Stainless steel drum 316 grade,45 gallon for £175 and the 30L one I picked up for £100.
All stamped 316.
If you are paying over $1000 may be I should send you some.

I'm not buying SS drums. I'm saying that, if you buy a 55 gallon drum of nitric acid from any chemical supplier (e.g., Univar) in the US, it will come in a 304SS drum and you will have to put a deposit of from $700 - $1000 on the drum, which you fully get back when you return the drum. The deposit for the smaller drums are less. With 55 gallons, the price of the nitric acid, itself, will probably range between $3 to $5 per gallon. If you can afford it and can use that much over, say, 6-12 months, it is the cheapest way, by far, to buy nitric.

Your prices seem OK, though, and I would imagine a 316SS drum would more than suffice for nitric. Much better than HDPE.

 

[snoman701]

Over the years, I've had a number of colored buckets and other colored PE containers that looked nearly identical to the blue container in the photo. It seems the dye leaches or bleaches out with the acid. Nitric is a strong oxidizer. You're not seeing a foamy blue solution in a white container. You're seeing a blue container that, in certain areas, has had it's color removed. It looks like the areas of removal are in places where the fumes would gather above the solution (maybe). Also, maybe, when molding the container, those areas that are white are relatively thin and that's why they discolored. Whatever, what you are seeing is a damaged container, in my estamation. Since having this happen a few times, I only use buckets and other PE containers that are white or translucent. My favorite buckets are the 5 gallon translucent ones from Lowes that have the graduations on them - both gallons and liters, I'm thinking. I don't trust any colored PE container, especially over the long haul. The orange Home Depot buckets seem to be the worst in discoloring.

One thing to note is that when you buy a white, or clear container, you are buying virgin resin. It costs more to manufacture.

I discovered this with HDPE from a machining perspective. White is more expensive than black. Further, I find that black is more gummy when machining.

So avoiding colored resin in general is likely better, if only to avoid recycled resin.

On edit...I would agree that the current container should no longer be used. I would also suggest that you NOT lift it, but empty it where it sits first. You don't want to find out that the bottle has been compromised, when it's 2 feet in the air.