Silver Chloride conversion success!

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
xelexo
Gold Refining Forum

Help Support Gold Refining Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Barthel732 said:
I dissolved foils from boards and pins into aqua regia. But after filtration and neutralization I could never get the gold to drop out. I would just have this brown liquid floating on the top of the solution and all my smb would solidify on the bottom. So I got frustrated and quit doing it. I just watched videos on cupelling. And I think that’s the way that would work best for me after failing with acids so many times.
Click to expand...
Make sure the Ph is between 2-4 for SMBS to work. Also, the gold precipitated is so fine, if the water is not pure (use only DM water) the gold finite-size particles tend to float rather than settle down. Use a coagulant such as Zinc powder to drop the gold.
 
Anil said:
Make sure the Ph is between 2-4 for SMBS to work. Also, the gold precipitated is so fine, if the water is not pure (use only DM water) the gold finite-size particles tend to float rather than settle down. Use a coagulant such as Zinc powder to drop the gold.
Click to expand...
Not entirely accurate.
SMB needs an acidic environment, but ideally not higher than 2, so I'd say 1-2 but it may work up to 4.
The more concentrated the solution is, the more compact the precipitate.
But then it depends on the way the SMB is added and what ever impurities are in solution with the Gold.
Some say add the SMB dry other make slurry and some just dissolve it with water.
I think it was Ultrax that had a some posts regarding this some time back.

Usually it is straight forward.
 
Anil said:
Make sure the Ph is between 2-4 for SMBS to work. Also, the gold precipitated is so fine, if the water is not pure (use only DM water) the gold finite-size particles tend to float rather than settle down. Use a coagulant such as Zinc powder to drop the gold.
Click to expand...
Is zinc powder the same as the zinc in Pennie’s?
 
Yggdrasil said:
I believe you use Zinc salts or other metal salts as coagulants/flocculants not Zinc metal powders.
Click to expand...
Ok. Thank you. I wasn’t sure if it was the same thing. I guess I’ll have to get these items before I can move forward then. Good thing gold doesn’t disappear when sitting
 
Anil said:
Make sure the Ph is between 2-4 for SMBS to work. Also, the gold precipitated is so fine, if the water is not pure (use only DM water) the gold finite-size particles tend to float rather than settle down. Use a coagulant such as Zinc powder to drop the gold.
Click to expand...
So I just ordered sulfamic acid since I’m being told that works and urea doesn’t. I honestly think that will be a big part of me succeeding in this gold process
 
You can get sulfamic acid at the local big box hardware store, it's sold as ceramic tile cleaner. I have used a single drop of liquid soap to lower the surface tension on the solution to make the fine floating gold drop.
 
rickbb said:
You can get sulfamic acid at the local big box hardware store, it's sold as ceramic tile cleaner. I have used a single drop of liquid soap to lower the surface tension on the solution to make the fine floating gold drop.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you. I just ordered a 1Lb tub from Amazon a little bit ago. I will try the soap thing tho and see if it works with my solution
 
Barthel732 said:
Yeah I know that but the core is zinc and the copper plate would burn of leaving pure zinc after borax. So would it be the same if it was ground to powder form
Click to expand...
Quite the opposite, Zinc will evaporate and you risk metal fume fever.
 
ModernAlchemy said:
So once again I attempted the Silver Chloride conversion to cement silver. This time after I rinsed the silver chloride and then added the Sodium Hydroxide and saw the particles turn black to silver oxide, I did not rinse it. I just added the corn syrup one tablespoon after another so 2 total. The mirror in the beaker came and went quickly leaving the gray cement silver. I then rinsed well with boiling water and then filtered. I'm comfortable now doing this on a small scale so I'm confident on a larger ( not too large) scale that I can do this without fail. I once again would like to thank all the gentlemen in the forum for their expert opinions and advice. I couldn't do it without you.
View attachment 60900
View attachment 60901View attachment 60902
Click to expand...
Good 👍 nice
 
Yggdrasil said:
Any mask will have a relatively short life time after the canister is opened.
And the red cloud NOx from Nitric is beyond masks ability.
Having a decent fume hood and a system for catching the fumes should suffice.
Something like this:
View attachment 61246
Click to expand...
Hi Yggdrasil,
Your post of a reaction scrubber in this thread is similar to the ones in the library ( article about building a whole hood scrubber ) but I could not find the original thread that those pictures were copied from. I’m sure there are many great ideas out there and the best way to go about this and would love more input. I never recover then refine more than an ounce of gold at a time so I was planing to use
Yggdrasil said:
Any mask will have a relatively short life time after the canister is opened.
And the red cloud NOx from Nitric is beyond masks ability.
Having a decent fume hood and a system for catching the fumes should suffice.
Something like this:
View attachment 61246
Click to expand...
Hi Yggdrasil,

Your diagram of the scrubber in this reply is similar to the ones pictured in a discussion on whole hood scrubbers in a thread in the library. I couldn’t find the thread that the pictures were copied from. I’m sure it has been discussed before but I’m having trouble navigating the site and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I’m sure that there are many great ideas out there and I would be interested in hearing what works best. I never recover and refine more than an ounce at a time and I am planning to use vacuum flasks for the neutralization vessels. Thanks
 
Phmatt said:
Hi Yggdrasil,
Your post of a reaction scrubber in this thread is similar to the ones in the library ( article about building a whole hood scrubber ) but I could not find the original thread that those pictures were copied from. I’m sure there are many great ideas out there and the best way to go about this and would love more input. I never recover then refine more than an ounce of gold at a time so I was planing to use

Hi Yggdrasil,

Your diagram of the scrubber in this reply is similar to the ones pictured in a discussion on whole hood scrubbers in a thread in the library. I couldn’t find the thread that the pictures were copied from. I’m sure it has been discussed before but I’m having trouble navigating the site and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I’m sure that there are many great ideas out there and I would be interested in hearing what works best. I never recover and refine more than an ounce at a time and I am planning to use vacuum flasks for the neutralization vessels. Thanks
Click to expand...
I can't remember where I saw it, it is in here.
In my lazyness I slapped together this sketch in my CAD program from memory.
A 2 min job ;)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top