jewelerdave said:
we have very pure tap water with almost no traces in it.
It would be unlikely for water to contaminate refined gold unless it contained traces of metals. Even then, the amount absorbed would likely be in parts per million. Far lower than the contamination in the solution from which your gold is precipitated. The balance of the minerals don't appear to report in the final product.
The use of distilled water in refining is way, way over emphasized unless you're making test solutions or making electrolyte for a silver parting cell. I used tap water routinely when I refined, and got excellent results (as you can see, below). While I've posted this picture a few times before, it's a picture of gold shot I produced, and can offer for sale. To think it could be purchased for less than spot is daydreaming. Ain't gonna happen, and never did when I was in business. Why would anyone sell $100 bills for $95?
Keep in mind that the gold pictured was melted without flux, and was not pickled to improve color. I don't claim 4 9's, but it certainly must be close. (On the subject of no flux, the melting dish used to melt the gold is lined with a thin layer of borax to insure free pouring gold. The dish, after melting a few hundred ounces, typically had no discoloration aside from a purple hue, the result of colloidal gold.
Its then rinsed with ammonia to take off any copper stuck to the precipitate. A blue liquid is the result.
The ammonium hydroxide wash shouldn't yield much color. If it does, you're not accomplishing what is required of the pre-washes. I, too, used ammonium hydroxide, and rarely got so much as a trace of blue coloration. You should be doing a HCL wash before the ammonia, and one afterwards, too, if you expect good quality gold, especially from bench waste.
We let it start cooling and dump a pinch of jewelers grade casting flux.
Get it pure and that isn't necessary. You're disguising the oxides by that method, not purifying the gold. Been there, done that, got the T shirt. The best scenario is to eliminate, in refining, the trace elements that lower the quality.
Oh yeah, a good tip if your casting into a metal mold, heat it up to a couple hundred degrees before you dump the hot metal in there. Otherwise when the hot metal hits it will cause water to condense on the mold and it will turn to steam and blow up and a good amount of hot metal will fly up and out and around and you can lose it. Just heat it in an oven to drive off condensation. The heat has to be even and not done with your torch, a hot plate works to do the same thing. Hit a piece of iron with your torch and pull away and watch all the water droplets form from the differences in heat. I also coat my molds with a spray on boron Nitride witch helps keep the mold from rusting from the heating.
The safety tip is very much appreciated, but the principle involved, as you described it, is in error.
Heat does not cause moisture to form. The moisture on metals so heated is the result of combustion in the torch, which yields water. It condenses on the cool surface. All that is required to eliminate the problem is to preheat the mold until it is warmer than the boiling point of water, at which time there are no problems with steam explosions. That can be accomplished with the torch just as easily as any other system, and it's far more convenient. Preheat the mold, blacken it with acetylene, and cast the gold. Done deal.
I cast gold ingots routinely as I described. That process provides a uniform, smooth surface, yielding a much better looking ingot, and insulates the gold from intimate contact with the mold. My molds were all cast iron, so it was important to form a complete barrier to insure that the gold didn't make contact with the mold, contaminating the ingot. There is no better way than with an oxy/acet torch for that purpose. Use only acetylene (no oxygen) , and blacken your molds in a fume hood to control the soot that settles everywhere.
For your perusal, I've posted a picture of ingots, below.
Edit: The picture of ingots is a very old photo ( early 80's), scanned. The color balance is not good, but the gold quality was the equal of that in the picture of shot, above.
Harold