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Is there any gold in TVs?
Where do you get your scrap gold ?
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Anonymous
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I'm in kingston ontario canada and get my best electronics finds from both computer repair shops mentioned above and, my personal favorite, guys who fix computers out of their house. the ewaste industry in ontario is focused mainly in toronto and when I started out three years ago it was completely unheard of. the recent us media attention over the last year or so did most of my work for me. instead of flyers I just opened my phone book and wrote down the name and phone # of everyone in the computer repair section then reverse searched their addresses on the net. My biggest hurdle was convincing people that I was on the up and up when I offered to remove it for free.
40 dollars in stamps a pack of envelopes from the dollar store and 30 mins in front of my computer and I had directly targeted all the people in the area who were likely to have lots of electronic scrap in their house.
after that initial mailing I have done no further marketing or advertising at all, it has been strictly word of mouth and I get an average of 2 or three calls per week. in the last years I've had one competitor set up a location with billboard etc but with what they charge($15-$35 per machine) all my old customers still call.
I've also been contacted by a few corporates in the area. In this area they didn't really have a way to get rid of it and would fill storerooms, in one case a rig trailer in the corner of their parking lot and were more then happy to let me haul it away.
Until now I've been outsourcing pretty much everything but the processing but reading posts here for the last week have encouraged me to try my first solo gold recovery. I'll be sure and post back if I have any problems
40 dollars in stamps a pack of envelopes from the dollar store and 30 mins in front of my computer and I had directly targeted all the people in the area who were likely to have lots of electronic scrap in their house.
after that initial mailing I have done no further marketing or advertising at all, it has been strictly word of mouth and I get an average of 2 or three calls per week. in the last years I've had one competitor set up a location with billboard etc but with what they charge($15-$35 per machine) all my old customers still call.
I've also been contacted by a few corporates in the area. In this area they didn't really have a way to get rid of it and would fill storerooms, in one case a rig trailer in the corner of their parking lot and were more then happy to let me haul it away.
Until now I've been outsourcing pretty much everything but the processing but reading posts here for the last week have encouraged me to try my first solo gold recovery. I'll be sure and post back if I have any problems
aflacglobal
Well-known member
Welcome to the forum Reaper.
Keep us up to date on your progress. :wink:
Keep us up to date on your progress. :wink:
OK there are a lot of post on this thread but not much info. Where do you get your scrap processors/fingers ( know they come from computers but where do you get the computers) from what I've herd there isn't much gold in one computer so you have to get a lot where are all you getting enough computers/electronics for 5LBs of fingers?
Rag and Bone
Well-known member
Had some good luck lately at scrap yards. Places that normally don't handle e-waste. Now they know where to go with it. Hi-grade boards and rare processors 
Beat the bushes and you find it.
Beat the bushes and you find it.mountaineer
Active member
The noble man makes noble plans;and by NOBLE DEEDS, he stands....
Gold is considered to be a noble metal and should be treated as such!!
Gold is considered to be a noble metal and should be treated as such!!
Try thrift stores. I have a deal with one local thrift store to pickup all the donated computers that are too old or not worth repairing. It saves them from having to pay for disposal!
Also try an ad on freecycle.org if there is a one near you.
Mike
Also try an ad on freecycle.org if there is a one near you.
Mike
steveonmars
Well-known member
Harold_V said:
Harold,
A good friend of my wife's owns an eyeglass store so I'll go talk to her tommorow and I'm sure she'll save frames for me. Can you post a little more info on what she'll need to look for, (I'll give her the markings you already posted), and what the extra processing info is you mentioned.
You can also PM me if you think that'd be easier, but others might want the info too.
Thanks,
Steve
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8,360
Chances of finding gold filled frames today are not good. The price of gold in '80 had a serious effect on how much was being used, so even then the source had taken a change for the worse.
The typical gold filled glass frame was marked 1/10-12L GF on the bridge. Later frames were marked differently, and contained less gold. I don't recall the marking now---but there was no reference to gold content, just the numbers. You may find the numbers stamped on the ear pieces instead of the bridge. Early 1/10-12K frames were not marked there, just on the bridge.
Recent advancements in non-corrosive alloys have pretty much eliminated gold filled frames. The best thing I can offer at this point is for you to check discarded frames and determine which may contain values. I was doing that years ago, with limited success. I can't help but think that frames made today will be valueless.
Sorry I'm not more help------I've been away from refining for about 15 years now.
I used dilute nitric to digest the base metals after incinerating the glass frames. Both steps are important. I heated them to redness, breaking the frames down to component parts. They tend to be very dirty with body oils, so don't overlook the incineration. You'll also need to do some testing, so you'll know what portions can be clipped, to avoid processing portions that have no value. Much of the portion that is covered with plastic has no value, but that is not always the case. Only by experimenting will you learn.
As the frames reduce in volume, the solution has a tendency to boil over. Heating is a requirement, so use large volume vessels that allow for a huge amount of frothing. Your first experience will be a good teacher.
Harold
The typical gold filled glass frame was marked 1/10-12L GF on the bridge. Later frames were marked differently, and contained less gold. I don't recall the marking now---but there was no reference to gold content, just the numbers. You may find the numbers stamped on the ear pieces instead of the bridge. Early 1/10-12K frames were not marked there, just on the bridge.
Recent advancements in non-corrosive alloys have pretty much eliminated gold filled frames. The best thing I can offer at this point is for you to check discarded frames and determine which may contain values. I was doing that years ago, with limited success. I can't help but think that frames made today will be valueless.
Sorry I'm not more help------I've been away from refining for about 15 years now.
I used dilute nitric to digest the base metals after incinerating the glass frames. Both steps are important. I heated them to redness, breaking the frames down to component parts. They tend to be very dirty with body oils, so don't overlook the incineration. You'll also need to do some testing, so you'll know what portions can be clipped, to avoid processing portions that have no value. Much of the portion that is covered with plastic has no value, but that is not always the case. Only by experimenting will you learn.
As the frames reduce in volume, the solution has a tendency to boil over. Heating is a requirement, so use large volume vessels that allow for a huge amount of frothing. Your first experience will be a good teacher.
Harold
Hello,
I'm still sitting on three plus pounds of GF frames, no lenses or ears, just bridges. I've processed close to 5 pounds of them and they all vary a little in their base metal makeup.
The ones I have now are stainless steel based and nitric has a very limited affect on them. I start off incinerating (something Harold taught me last year back :wink: ), then I move on to two extended boils in HCl. When the HCl no longer has any effect, I put the shells in AR and dissolve the gold as usual.
Be sure you test a small sample before you jump in head first on a batch.
Steve
I'm still sitting on three plus pounds of GF frames, no lenses or ears, just bridges. I've processed close to 5 pounds of them and they all vary a little in their base metal makeup.
The ones I have now are stainless steel based and nitric has a very limited affect on them. I start off incinerating (something Harold taught me last year back :wink: ), then I move on to two extended boils in HCl. When the HCl no longer has any effect, I put the shells in AR and dissolve the gold as usual.
Be sure you test a small sample before you jump in head first on a batch.
Steve
Harold,
The storm leap frogged my neck of the woods. We experienced only a light sprinkle here and everywhere within 50 miles.
These frames are very interesting indeed. They are magnetic and clearly hallmarked 1/10 12Kt GF. I stripped some in the cell and the steel dissolved along with the gold. When I tried 50/50 technical grade nitric, it did change color, but would not work to reduce the batch to shells. I'm assuming the SS base metal passivated and stopped the reaction.
I poured off the nitric and rinsed the frames well. A close inspection of the frames at this point revealed that the gold filled shells could be removed from the underlying metal by sliding the entire shell length wise off of the wire frame, so I guess the nitric dissolved the layer between the gold shell and the steel. I then moved to boiling HCl. The HCl worked slowly on the frames, but eventually dissolved the steel.
In the past batches I've done the base metal was easily dissolved with nitric. Nearly all of the above mentioned frames were identical and brand new with the tag on them.
Steve
The storm leap frogged my neck of the woods. We experienced only a light sprinkle here and everywhere within 50 miles.
These frames are very interesting indeed. They are magnetic and clearly hallmarked 1/10 12Kt GF. I stripped some in the cell and the steel dissolved along with the gold. When I tried 50/50 technical grade nitric, it did change color, but would not work to reduce the batch to shells. I'm assuming the SS base metal passivated and stopped the reaction.
I poured off the nitric and rinsed the frames well. A close inspection of the frames at this point revealed that the gold filled shells could be removed from the underlying metal by sliding the entire shell length wise off of the wire frame, so I guess the nitric dissolved the layer between the gold shell and the steel. I then moved to boiling HCl. The HCl worked slowly on the frames, but eventually dissolved the steel.
In the past batches I've done the base metal was easily dissolved with nitric. Nearly all of the above mentioned frames were identical and brand new with the tag on them.
Steve
steveonmars
Well-known member
Harold and Steve,
Thanks for the info on the frames, it's something more to look into.
Steve, I live in Ft Myers and we got more rain after the storm went by than we did that day. Today's the first day it hasn't rained all day. Hopefully that's the worst we'll see this year but it's not looking good if you belive the forcasts.
Steve
Thanks for the info on the frames, it's something more to look into.
Steve, I live in Ft Myers and we got more rain after the storm went by than we did that day. Today's the first day it hasn't rained all day. Hopefully that's the worst we'll see this year but it's not looking good if you belive the forcasts.
Steve
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Anonymous
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I have learned so much coming to this website. Thank you to everyone. This is my first post.
Personally, I advertise "Free computer recycling" or "curbside pickup to old outdated and broken computers" on Craigslist.org. I get more computer components than I can handle. I get alot of monitors and printers though. I sort them out and test them. If they work, I trade them to local computer shops for broken components,chips, and boards. If they don't work, I drop them off at the local e-waste center here in town.
I hope this info has helped. thanks - kent
Personally, I advertise "Free computer recycling" or "curbside pickup to old outdated and broken computers" on Craigslist.org. I get more computer components than I can handle. I get alot of monitors and printers though. I sort them out and test them. If they work, I trade them to local computer shops for broken components,chips, and boards. If they don't work, I drop them off at the local e-waste center here in town.
I hope this info has helped. thanks - kent
Question: I have two identical RAM boards from i believe a IBM system/38 mainframe. One has plastic ram chips with date codes 1986. The other has ceramic chip with gold lids and legs and date codes of1983. These are 16 pin DIP packages. The only difference i can see between these boards is the gold. The gold board weighs 1 lb, 3.4 oz. The non-gold one weighs 1 lb, 0.2 oz. Does this mean the gold board has 3.2 oz more of precious metals? I can't think of any other explanation. There are 160 chips total double-stacked.
Nice boards, check the collectors value before trying to get the gold.
Göran
Identical? Last time I checked ceramics is a lot heavier than plastic.rollerdisco said:
Göran
Thanks Göran, hadn't considered the weight difference between ceramic and plastic. I meant identical in that the only differences are the RAM chips themselves. New to this. Cannot find any collector value or even a reference to them anywhere. Planning a trip to the Rhode Island Computer Museum hoping to learn more as they have
a System/38 in their collection. How can I find their value?
a System/38 in their collection. How can I find their value?
jimdoc
Well-known member
You can post them on Ebay. Or check Ebay for past sales.
anachronism
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On the left of the picture there are stickers on both boards. Do those stickers have the same numbers? I ask because I am not 100 percent sure those are both the same board even though they look similar in arrangement.
