10+ grams of scrap palladium in hammond organ

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theirrationalist

New member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
1
All,

After lurking on this forum for over 10 years, I finally have something worthy of a post. This week, I picked up an old Hammond H-300, and harvested 10.5 grams of palladium from just the busbars alone.

I have been taking apart scrap Hammonds for over a year now, and have taken apart over a dozen or so. This H-300 has by far the most palladium of any of the models I have taken apart. I actually wrote up a full report on scrapping a Hammond C2, which I thought had a lot of palladium at 7.5 grams in the busbars.

Here are a few photos.

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I just wanted to say thanks and let you guys know how much I've enjoyed lurking in this community.

If anybody has a suggestion for how to refine this palladium, please point me in the right direction. I have about 2toz of scrap.

Thanks to all.
 
theirrationalist said:
If anybody has a suggestion for how to refine this palladium, please point me in the right direction. I have about 2toz of scrap.

Thanks to all.

Nice 8) :mrgreen: :G

I have scrapped a few Hammonds to :mrgreen:

You don't need to refine it - it's already refined Pd - just take it in & sell it as is

Kurt
 
jimdoc said:
stella polaris said:
Would you be kind and post a close up picture of the Pd parts? Alway nice to see what to look out for.

Palladium

Thx Jimdoc.

I have scrapped a couple hammonds but none of this model. Neither have I seen/fund any Pd that looks like the shown photo. That is why i am courious. Do you know what parts it is?
 
It looks like the wire pulled off the buss bar. I could never get it all in one piece, it would always break and wind up being a bunch of smaller pieces.

One of the models I scrapped had that much palladium also (I think it was a c-3), foot pedals help the buss bar totals on some models.
 
A kind hijacking of the thread.

I am trying to get a Hammond T-500. Price not yet agreed upon.

I have never put my hands on a tone-wheel and this is the last model with that. Anyone that have done one or knows what to expect?
 
As long as it has the palladium along the buss bars, you can estimate by the number of keys, and if it has pedals. As far as I remember, they are similar except for the size of the buss bars.
 
Stella,

The T series models have about 3 grams on the busbars. I have taken a few apart, they seemed to be skimpy with the palladium compared to the full size organs.

This link has all the info I've learned from scrapping over a dozen of these things: https://www.scrapmetaljunkie.com/2230/how-to-scrap-a-hammond-organ-for-scrap-palladium

That link shows close ups of all the palladium pieces, and explains how and where to find the palladium, as well as palladium estimates for all the different Hammond models. I wrote a lot, but you can just scroll through the pictures and you'll get the idea.

I have a lot of palladium spring end clippings, like a whole ziplock bag full. Does anybody have a good method for refining these clipping?

Scrap_Spring_Contacts.jpg

Please excuse the watermark, that is pulled directly from the link I gave.
 
jimdoc said:
It looks like the wire pulled off the buss bar. I could never get it all in one piece, it would always break and wind up being a bunch of smaller pieces.

Hi Jim

The long bus bar that has the long Pd wire has the wire spot brazed to the bus bar about every inch or so - so if you just try to pull the wire from the bus bar it brakes off at each of those spot welds (hence ending up with a bunch of smaller wires) & although it doesn't amount to a lot you end up losing "some" Pd as it's stuck to the bus bar where the wire brakes at the point of the weld

The braze is done with a nickel braze so you can dissolve the braze with HCl which will release the whole wire from the bus bar

However - the HCl has to be HOT to dissolve the nickel - like "boiling" hot --- takes about 2 hours with the HCl on a boil & the whole wire will release

Kurt
 
ScrapMetalJunkie said:
I have a lot of palladium spring end clippings, like a whole ziplock bag full. Does anybody have a good method for refining these clipping?

Per the underlined --- dilute nitric

Although nitric will dissolve Pd - in order to do so the nitric needs to be concentrated - that is (like dissolving silver) 67 - 70 % nitric diluted 50/50 with distilled water - AND it needs to be HOT - & even at that it is very slow at dissolving the Pd --- that is a result of where it sits on the reactive series of metals

In other words - although nitric can/will dissolve Pd - it is MUCH less reactive to the nitric then nitric reaction to metal above Pd in the reactive series - such as copper or silver which are MUCH more reactive to nitric

Therefore you can take advantage of "how reactive" nitric is to the different metals

Examples; - copper is "very" reactive to nitric - 50/50 nitric/D-water will dissolve copper without any need to heat the nitric (other then the heat created from the reaction) & it will do so in a "relatively" short time (a few hours) the example here being say 5 or 10 pounds of gold plated pins in a plastic 5 gallon bucket will dissolve the pins in 4 -5 hours

on the other hand - if you put 5 - 10 pounds of silver in a 5 gallon bucket with the same 50/50 nitric it would take several days to dissolve the silver- & then it may not dissolve all the silver (as the acid gets weaker & weaker the more metal it dissolves) which is why we put silver in a beaker & put it on a hot plate to dissolve silver --- the acid (nitric) needs the added heat of the hot plate to keep the reaction going on the silver because the silver is so much less reactive to the nitric then the reactivity of the nitric to copper

Like wise - Pd is even less reactive to nitric then it is to silver - so not only does it take heat to dissolve Pd with nitric - it also take more time to dissolve the Pd

So you can take advantage of this fact - you have a "small" Pd wire brazed to a "thin" copper bus bar

therefore - if you dilute the nitric more then 50/50 & do "not" apply any heat - the acid will be to weak to react with the Pd - but will still react with the copper --- thereby dissolving the copper but leave the Pd (wires) undissolved & sitting in the bottom of your reaction vessel (beaker or bucket)

Keep in mind that it takes (about) 4 time more nitric to dissolve copper then to dissolve silver

It takes (about) 1 gallon of 67 -70 % nitric to dissolve (about) 2 pounds of copper - where as the same gallon of nitric will dissolve (about) 8 pounds of silver

As an example (in your case) say you have 2 pounds of the clipped bus bar points - you will need (about) 1 gallon of nitric to dissolve the copper - put the points in a 5 gallon bucket - put 2 gallons distilled water in the bucket (you don't want tap water as the chlorine in tap water can make a weak AR which may - or not - result in dissolving "some" Pd) --- then add 1/3 to 1/2 of the nitric (I think you will be safe at half your acid - because a half gallon acid to 2 gallons water is already quit diluted) let that react until the reaction slows down (about 2 -3 hours) then add half of your remaining acid - wait for the reaction to slow down again (another 2 - 3 hours) then add the remaining acid --- if you start in the morning - by the end of the day (depending somewhat on the outside temp) the copper should be dissolved with the Pd wires in the bottom of the bucket --- if the outside temp is below 60 - 70 F it may take a day & half to 2 days to dissolve the copper

Or if you don't have nitric you could "boil" the clippings in HCL to dissolve the nickel braze to release the Pd wires from the copper bus bars --- but then you have to "try" to separate the VERY small wires from the much larger copper bus bar clippings --- a real pain in the you know what --- because the HCl wont dissolve ether the copper or the Pd

Or - you could dissolve the copper with the CuCl2 method - but like dissolving gold plated pins with CuCl2 that will take DAYS to dissolve the copper

I have never used the CuCl2 method (because I have always had nitric) but as I understand it - with that much copper it could take a couple weeks --- maybe someone that knows more about the CuCl2 method could chime in on that

Kurt
 
Copper chloride in hydrochloric acid dissolves palladium... I don't know if you need additional heat or if it dissolves it even when cold.

See the Wacker process : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacker_process

Göran
 
jimdoc said:
stella polaris said:
Would you be kind and post a close up picture of the Pd parts? Alway nice to see what to look out for.

Palladium

How to tell how old your post is......
When Noxx asks you to resize it. Lol! God I remember those days. We had a heck of a time. I still remember you guys showing me how to use my first DSLR. Hard to believe it's been that long.
 
I use 20% sulfuric acid with about one cup per gallon 25% peroxide ( Oxidizer from a non chlorine swimming pool chemical system is an inexpensive source ).
Pretty violent reaction with the copper, leave some headroom in your container, doesn't seem to affect the palladium. Much cheaper for me than nitric acid for me
 
I appreciate your concern. I have great respect for concentrated sulfuric acid and wouldn’t dream of creating full strength piranha acid.
The facility I work at has a 3000 gallon tank of sulfuric that is pumped to several places in our process. The only thing I worry about more is the 60% sodium hydroxide, one drop and your eye is gone.
What I am using is diluted battery acid with a little peroxide.
This why I’m more of a lurker on the forum, I’ve never contributed without someone having an issue.
I’m very thankful and appreciate the information I’ve learned on the forum it has changed my life for the better.
Thanks to all that have shared their knowledge so freely.
 
Have to say thank you to scrapmetaljunkie for his info, scrapped out 4 organs till now and got a 16,5 gr button.

I have tried AP for the recovery of the small palladium contacts at the tip of the copper parts, this process also dissolves partly the paladium, also not really working. I was wondering if these parts are 100% copper or an alloy? If copper can I use them for cementing silver, the palladium contacts will be mixed with the cemented silver and recovered in my silver cell?

Thanks Paul
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Verstuurd vanaf mijn STK-LX1 met Tapatalk

 
Long time I have not been posting.

I'm scrapping a newer Hammond Aurora Classic from 1971. There is no palladium on the key buss, but there is a short wire contact on the key tab that touches the buss bar. I only got two grains of the contact wire out of this machine. Have not tested it for Pd.

I am curious about this one switch with silver contacts. Some kind or rheostat maybe, I don't know, but it's got nine 1/8" rods perpendicular to he travel of two silver contacts each on eight push-pull levers. The plastic switch box is about 10" long and 2-1/2" wide, about 1-1/4" thick. Does anyone know if the nine rods might have value? Or, can anyone identify this type of switch assembly by name?

I apologize for not being able to post photos. Thanks.
 
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