Borax for fireproof fume hood

[MarcoP]

Maybe better just to pevent uncontrolled fire.

Indeed, preventing is the best way to go but I've heard of accidents happening to experienced people thus I'd like to play safe when I can.

Too late for gypsum drywall now, it sounds like a great idea, fumehood it's already made. I will have to look how much it costs fireproof fiberglass and if too expensive I'll try with borax as primer and latex exteriors paint on a small board, test and then do the fumehood. I think I'll be mostly set like this and then I could concentrate on the exhaust.

 

[MarcoP]

Btw. if I remember right, wood burns 1mm per minute. A fireproof coating will in the best case prevent it some time from inflammation. If there is any good source of heat, it will pyrolyse, coated or not. The pyrolysis gasses will cause a flash over, when their concentration is within the ex-range and enough heat and oxygen are present. Very theoretical though. There is a good ventilation and you would probably be near and use a fire extinguisher very soon.

If the ventilation pipes are inflammable, you would have another problem in the case of fire :!:

I'll have to stick with PVC tubings...

 

[necromancer]

Maybe better just to pevent uncontrolled fire.

Indeed, preventing is the best way to go but I've heard of accidents happening to experienced people thus I'd like to play safe when I can.

Too late for gypsum drywall now, it sounds like a great idea, fumehood it's already made. I will have to look how much it costs fireproof fiberglass and if too expensive I'll try with borax as primer and latex exteriors paint on a small board, test and then do the fumehood. I think I'll be mostly set like this and then I could concentrate on the exhaust.

fire code drywall 5/8" is only good for 45 minutes of protection, quarterdboard (1 1/4" X 16" X 10') would be good but may be hard to find in smaller amounts.

you can use wonderboard with a coat of durabond?

then use fire resistant paint.

 

[Barren Realms 007]

You can double the layers of dry wall and it will increase the protection time.

 

[MarcoP]

Maybe better just to pevent uncontrolled fire.

Indeed, preventing is the best way to go but I've heard of accidents happening to experienced people thus I'd like to play safe when I can.

Too late for gypsum drywall now, it sounds like a great idea, fumehood it's already made. I will have to look how much it costs fireproof fiberglass and if too expensive I'll try with borax as primer and latex exteriors paint on a small board, test and then do the fumehood. I think I'll be mostly set like this and then I could concentrate on the exhaust.

fire code drywall 5/8" is only good for 45 minutes of protection, quarterdboard (1 1/4" X 16" X 10') would be good but may be hard to find in smaller amounts.

you can use wonderboard with a coat of durabond?

then use fire resistant paint.

Wonderboard lite not available in Europe http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/tools/international.aspx but I got the idea of what it is and from tomorrow I will go and look for all the options given by you all.

Basically, from what I gather, borax as primer is not good enough to slow down wood combustion... sometimes following Iron's signature it's a must as I can see.

 

[jason_recliner]

Consider having more than one extinguisher on hand if many different operations are conducted under your hood.
Dry chemical AB(E) extinguishers, red with white band, are good for most things but they make a mess. (Though not compared to a fire taking hold.) Also they are usually filled with sodium bicarbonate, which needs to be seriously considered around acids.
A CO₂ extinguisher, red with black band, might be a good addition. They cost more, but you can also give a short squirt and put them away without having to get them refilled, which you have to once you crack the seal on a dry chem AB(E). But you must be careful using them on loose paper fires and the like, in case you scatter burning material everywhere.

 

[GotTheBug]

Why not just line it with cement board with a 1/2 inch space behind?

 

[MarcoP]

Consider having more than one extinguisher on hand if many different operations are conducted under your hood.
Dry chemical AB(E) extinguishers, red with white band, are good for most things but they make a mess. (Though not compared to a fire taking hold.) Also they are usually filled with sodium bicarbonate, which needs to be seriously considered around acids.
A CO₂ extinguisher, red with black band, might be a good addition. They cost more, but you can also give a short squirt and put them away without having to het them refilled, which you have to once you crack the seal on a dry chem AB(E). But you must be careful using them on loose paper fires and the like, in case you scatter burning material everywhere.

Jason since the very first day I always had and still have a bag of sand. Used for sand bath but always ready for sucking up any big spills, none has happened yet, and in case of fire.
In most MSDSs I've checked, under the firefighters section, I always found sand as possible extinguisher so having some around made me feel little safer.

Sodium bicarbonate is also near by from a long time, at harm reach and close to water. It has been said too many times how important those two are in case acids comes in contact with skin or eyes (that's why glasses are to be worn) but I never though I could use it as extinguishing media.

Why not just line it with cement board with a 1/2 inch space behind?

Basically Wonderboard is a cement like panel, and yes, that's in the wanted list too.

Thanks

 

[Irons]

I recently picked-up about a 1/3 ton of 300mm square Slate tiles. When I build my new Hood, I will use them for the liner. Already checked them for heat resistance and ability to resist spalling. I think for $45 bucks it was a good deal. Many areas of the World, non-porous Ceramic Tiles are readily available and fairly inexpensive.

 

[Palladium]

I recently picked-up about a 1/3 ton of 300mm square Slate tiles. When I build my new Hood, I will use them for the liner. Already checked them for heat resistance and ability to resist spalling. I think for $45 bucks it was a good deal. Many areas of the World, non-porous Ceramic Tiles are readily available and fairly inexpensive.

Here in the South where i live we have many towns that were built around the textile industry. It those towns the factories usually built housing for their employees who worked in the mill. Their are thousands of houses still in existence that used them tiles. Around here when a house is tore down those tiles go for good money.

 

[MarcoP]

Since I decided to put chemistry aside to learn more and recovering enough material to minimize losses I was able to make some room and finally put my future fume hood in place.

It will use two regulated 12v ~165cfm fume extractors, will be painted with few diluted epoxy resin hands, 12v natural led lighting, a cheap UPS and plexiglass or something cheaper to close it. The front will always have 10cm, 4", opening and could be raised by 10cm steps. The vents will not suck air directly, but they will rather push air into the exhaust tubes to create vacuum. At 100cfm per inch square and calculating the loss of suction I should be able to be ok with the always open 4" square opening.


*Click to view full size.

Note, there is a small lip in the front to avoid spills and a good vacuum pump it might get in one day ... [stt]I will replace the picture with a better one as soon as I can[/stt].

Marco

 

[necromancer]

you can also "Parge" that with portland cement

Parge = Paint on a surface


just mix the portland cement thin enough so you can use a course brush to put it on, use 2 or 3 coats.

to make sure it stays on you can attach expanded metal (lath) to the wood before parging