Electrolytic Recovery Part 1.c:Cell, Setup, Use, and Storage

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Rooto Pro Drain Opener
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liquid fire
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Crystal Power
Instant Power
 
All anode items should be stainless steel, the higher the grade the better at least 300 series, but 400 series is better.
 
Stainless steel does corrode, but not as rapidly as steel. The anode items will wear out over time, especially if they are not well maintained by rinsing and proper storage after each use.
 
PM,

Store bought ammonia comes in several varieties. You never want to buy the scented type only the clear ammonia. The percentage concentration can be anywhere from 1% to 4%. This is not concentrated ammonia. Concentrated ammonia is 28% and is very dangerous stuff. It can burn your lungs very easily. Ammonia should always be handled in a well ventilated area.

Steve
 
Is concentrated ammonia needed to clean the gold for that step, or will 1-4% do the trick?
 
The store bought stuff will work.
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The products formed from ammonia and some base metals and substances (ie: copper, nitric acid ) can be explosive.
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Steve
 
hey steve following your steps just found drain opener at osh containes consintrated sufuric acid and water

would this be fine ,i remember you saying that be careful not to add any water ,

but if sufuric comes already mix with water it should be fine right
 

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Yes should be fine ;)
In the future could you please post smaller pictures ? You can resize them when you upload them at imageshack.us

Thank You
 
thanks a bunch still learning how to up load

hey will it be possible to upload videos like we do the pics in the futher

of this furom,, is so that would be great and fast
 
PM,

I took a day off from gold to visit with my sister-in-law's family. They are in town from south Florida. I'll get to the smelting video this coming week after I post the filtering video.

Steve
 
lazersteve said:
This one was a major undertaking. I had to clean my bench you saw in the previous video, setup a second cell, and get it all edited for the forum.
It was a pleasure to make this one, I'm very proud of it.

Thanks, Steve, this was the one I had been waiting for! Very interesting process. I think combining this with Socoroban's SS mesh basket is going
to work well for me. I just weighed 576 g of sheared-off wire-wrap pins and connector fingers from old computer backplanes. The backplanes with "press-fit" contacts are easy to salvage. You shear the pins off the back with a standard wood chisel. This may need a little resharpening every whole backplane or so. Then, you use pliers to pull off the plastic connector housings on the front (board) side, and repeat the process. I can strip a 12 x 12" backplane board in 20 minutes or so. Those pins look awfully small, but there are thousands on each backplane.

Thanks,
 
Thank you Jon,
I'm really glad that these tutorials are helping you guys out, otherwise it would be a real waste of time for me. I'm trying to keep them interesting, educational, and entertaining.
I've been using the 'mesh basket' for some time now, but there is a better way. I'll post more about it when I get some extra time. Be sure to read my post on Anode X it may give you some ideas of your own on designing custom anodes. Always use SS when you design an anode.

Steve
 
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