fiber cpu gold removal

[doc7]

I have just tried to strip the gold from fiber cpu pins and for the most part it sort of worked. After 4.5 hrs with a light boil the hydrochloric turned medium blue, not dark. 1000ml hydrochloric and 84 grams of fiber cpu pins. Do I need more pins or just more time?

 

[Claudie]

http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=9693

Read through this thread, it should answer your questions.

 

[Claudie]

The ratio of HCL to pins sounds about right if I remember correctly. What strength HCL did you use?

 

[Pantherlikher]

Welcome doc7 to a great forum to learn what you wish.

I as well as the forum hope you stop what you are doing now, lightly cover and store and read "Hoke's " book and learn and understand what it is you are doing.
Youtube does not go into details well enough to teach the correct and SAFE ways of using acids and the dangers of this field.

For instance: Never Boil HCl NEVER as your gold as well as the HCl can boil away. NEVER do any of this indoor as gasses produce are dangerous.

Hope to read some of your progress
B.S.

 

[squarecoinman]

Doc7 in my signature you can find a link to download hoke´s book ( for free )

also have a good look at the safety section


scm

 

[FrugalRefiner]

For instance: Never Boil HCl NEVER as your gold as well as the HCl can boil away.

Boiling HCl is fine as long as it's covered. It is useful when driving a reaction to completion. Because boiling causes bubbles to burst at the surface of the solution, it can lead to losses. To prevent this, the vessel is covered with a watch glass.

The time to NOT boil, is when you want to reduce the volume of solution. In this case, we want to evaporate the solution by heating the solution to below the boiling point. This avoids the loss of values from those bubbles bursting. Since the goal is to let water and fumes escape, we don't want to cover the vessel, so it must be kept below the boiling point.

Hope that helps to clarify when boiling is acceptable and when it's not.

Dave

 

[g_axelsson]

I would express myself a bit different for the general situation.

Boiling is okay when you don't have any dissolved values in your liquid. Who cares if they lose some iron chloride. The raised heat and constant agitation of the boiling is a good thing when dissolving base metals.

Boiling should never be used if you have values dissolved in the liquid. Some of it would be carried away on the mist produced by the bursting bubbles.

Göran

Edit : loose -> lose and check Harolds response below... I stand corrected.

 

[doc7]

The ratio of HCL to pins sounds about right if I remember correctly. What strength HCL did you use?

I used 32%

 

[doc7]

Welcome doc7 to a great forum to learn what you wish.

I as well as the forum hope you stop what you are doing now, lightly cover and store and read "Hoke's " book and learn and understand what it is you are doing.
Youtube does not go into details well enough to teach the correct and SAFE ways of using acids and the dangers of this field.

For instance: Never Boil HCl NEVER as your gold as well as the HCl can boil away. NEVER do any of this indoor as gasses produce are dangerous.

Hope to read some of your progress
B.S.

When I say a light boil when looking through the glass I could see the gold pins / foil moving from bottom to top slow . And always remember to work out side with proper safety equipment.

 

[Harold_V]

I would express myself a bit different for the general situation.

Boiling is okay when you don't have any dissolved values in your liquid. Who cares if they loose some iron chloride. The raised heat and constant agitation of the boiling is a good thing when dissolving base metals.

Boiling should never be used if you have values dissolved in the liquid. Some of it would be carried away on the mist produced by the bursting bubbles.

Göran

While I agree with you in principal, I don't agree in practice. With values in solution, I used boiling extensively, but I did so with a watch glass in place. In fact, I insisted on boiling my silver nitrate solution when it was prepared as electrolyte for my silver cell. The boiling aciton drove out traces of those familiar brown fumes with which we are all familiar. That shifted the color of my electrolyte such that I could determine that there was no copper in my silver. I also drove my gold chloride to the state of boiling at the end of the dissolution process, which readily disclosed if I had a lack of nitric or HCl. One observed the formation of the familiar brown cloud, or lack thereof.

You can witness the results of the use of a watch glass by watching the (colored) solution coalesce on the bottom side of the watch glass, then drip back in to the vessel. You can also verify that you aren't losing values by condensing traces of vapors escaping from the vessel, using a porcelain spatula, then testing with stannous chloride. I found the values weren't contained in the vapors, but were being propelled from the solution by rapid boiling.

Boiling can be an important part of the refining process. Just avoid doing so when your intended purpose is to EVAPORATE. That should be accomplished at a rate below a boil, to avoid the loss of values from particles evacuating the vessel under high energy.

If you mean evaporate, that's exactly what you should say. If boiling is mentioned, the wrong message is sent, so we start all over again correcting misinformation.

If, somewhere in Hoke, there is mention of boil when she means evaporate, the error should be corrected.

I do not claim to be right---or wrong. I'm simply reporting on my method of operation, which was successful, and hard won. I evaporated a solution too quickly once (I boiled lightly) and ended up with the side of my travel trailer covered in purple stain. This was very early in my learning curve, and long before I had a fume hood. I was exhausting with a fan in the window. Never again did that happen to me. A fume hood was my next project.

Harold

 

[Palladium]

I also drove my gold chloride to the state of boiling at the end of the dissolution process, which readily disclosed if I had a lack of nitric or HCl. One observed the formation of the familiar brown cloud, or lack thereof.

A lot of what we learn is from books and passed on knowledge but one of our biggest resources of all is often overlooked. That would be the power of learning through observation. Chris said something earlier today also that was full of wisdom and if i was new i would have never picked up on. Harold just did the same thing here but i'm not sure if the new guys know what he means. A lot of new people when they are running ar look at the beaker and if they don't see red gas they assume they are out of nitric. They have heard us reference it a million times. So what do they do? They add more nitric. Then they don't get a reaction and they think they didn't add enough nitric so they add more. The flip side to that coin is that if you don't have enough hcl then you wont see the red gas coming off the materials because you have a shortage of hcl instead of nitric. Now in a controlled refine like karat gold where the numbers can get you close enough that you can guide it on in the process can be controlled and monitored with some degree of accuracy. In the case of gold filled, like i do mostly, i have to take the fly by the seat of your pants approach. With mixed lots of karat gold filled your numbers as far as yields can be all over the place and figuring just the right amount of acids to use is more an educated guess than a science. Sometime i look like the mad doctor cooking up something in a laboratory. I just start with a small excess of hcl and from there the equations are anybody's guess. That's where experience and the power of observation have to be your eyes and your guide.

 

[g_axelsson]

Thanks Harold! That's good advice on how to check the fumes.

I also corrected a stupid spelling mistake and added a pointer to your reply in my previous post.

Göran