Skeeter8154
Active member
Finished my fume hood. Learning a lot from the forum and wanted to share my video of mine would love thoughts on this.
First fume hood with scrubber
- Thread starter Skeeter8154
- Start date
Help Support Gold Refining Forum:
I love the tray for drainage? I'm incorporating that into my fume hood when I finally make one.
I don´t like that wood on the bottom of "catch tray". Of course it will drain, but good portion can soak directly to the wood, even if it is painted - acids will destruct the paint or lacruer in few short moments. I would advise to line the bottom with something truely impermeable, like thick PE foil.
I personally use whole bottomed crates. They are from sturdy plastic, does not crack that badly and withstand the contact of acids for quite a bit of time - required to properly clean up any eventual spill that can happen. Also, they are fairly large and you can work with beakers inside of them quite easily.
I personally use whole bottomed crates. They are from sturdy plastic, does not crack that badly and withstand the contact of acids for quite a bit of time - required to properly clean up any eventual spill that can happen. Also, they are fairly large and you can work with beakers inside of them quite easily.
Skeeter8154
Active member
I plan on lining it with FRP panel and seal all edges with silicone. Will that work. Now I have 3 coats of polyurethane
Abdoulapapatte
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2020
- Messages
- 91
same question , where did you find you're source , not bad
jkenned5
Member
How much was it to make? I have chances sometimes to buy a used one for 150-250. If it's cheaper to make maybe I will do that.
I personally would prefer the doors to slide up and down allowing you to control the size of the opening. Add that to Orvi’s bottom and let it run.
Then again, sometimes we work with what we can get and that is better than nothing.
Then again, sometimes we work with what we can get and that is better than nothing.
It is always good to know what have been done in that used hood. You do not want to buy some one contamined with unimaginable variety of nasty chemicals. If it is from some well established lab working with harmless stuff, OK. If it was from some other PM refiner who you does not know personally, I would reject.
My old colleague once in a while done a "towel test" - he wetted one square of paper towel in water, "cleaned" the bench, corners, intriguing "dusty" deposits and vent hole insides... And since he has done AAS regularly, he shoved it into the machine and then decided if he is interested
Skeeter8154
Active member
Just studied what a fume hood needs to be from google and came up with my own design
Skeeter8154
Active member
I have about $250.00 in the fume hood including the exhaust fan. The plywood I already had and glass panes from an old window I took out of my garage.
How about using a dishwasher for starting point for a small fume cabinet?
They're made from chemical resistant plastic and are readily available used for cheap or even free on Craigslist.
Just strip one down to the basic cabinet and remove the pump and spinner assembly. And turn the whole thing upside down. That gives you a round opening on top to attach the vent hose to.
Attaching the door shouldn't be too hard.
It's not very big but for up to a couple gallon size containers. It should work well.
They're made from chemical resistant plastic and are readily available used for cheap or even free on Craigslist.
Just strip one down to the basic cabinet and remove the pump and spinner assembly. And turn the whole thing upside down. That gives you a round opening on top to attach the vent hose to.
Attaching the door shouldn't be too hard.
It's not very big but for up to a couple gallon size containers. It should work well.
The simplest design is to weld metal chassis from regular square steel profiles, and use thick PE foil for "curtains". Bench would be made of plywood reinforced with some same steel square profile from the bottom.
Exhaust hose would be simply taped to the top PE foil, and from the sides there would be "walls" made from multiple layers of that thick PE foil. Front of the hood will have PE foil curtains - depending on the length of the bench, divided to 3 or 4 segments. For work, you will simply take the segment and place it on the top of the hood. There is no need to have hermetically sealed walls, bottom or top of the hood if you have good exhaust fan, there is always negative pressure inside.
Metal chassis would be then treated with thick acid resistant paint layer.
Not artistic look, but we done well with this oversimplyfied design. Life expectancy is some few years of very heavy use of AR, lots of NOx-es and acids evaporation. All depends on the chassis maintenance. If you manage to protect it well - it will pay off. It is even advantageous to build the chassis from plastic-wood composite. Not that strong as steel, but fairly said - if you do not place any weight to the top of the "roof", there is no need to be super strong
Some folks use regular old table as a bench, and make the "box" from 4 props and the top piece of some thin plywood. Then the sides walls are made of multiple layers of thick PE foil and front from that same foil, cut into few segments. If you feel like investing some money into it, you can buy plexiglass plastic panel and build the front out of if. Sliding upwards/downwards for opening/closing the front of the hood. Like normal regular hoods use to have.
Exhaust hose would be simply taped to the top PE foil, and from the sides there would be "walls" made from multiple layers of that thick PE foil. Front of the hood will have PE foil curtains - depending on the length of the bench, divided to 3 or 4 segments. For work, you will simply take the segment and place it on the top of the hood. There is no need to have hermetically sealed walls, bottom or top of the hood if you have good exhaust fan, there is always negative pressure inside.
Metal chassis would be then treated with thick acid resistant paint layer.
Not artistic look, but we done well with this oversimplyfied design. Life expectancy is some few years of very heavy use of AR, lots of NOx-es and acids evaporation. All depends on the chassis maintenance. If you manage to protect it well - it will pay off. It is even advantageous to build the chassis from plastic-wood composite. Not that strong as steel, but fairly said - if you do not place any weight to the top of the "roof", there is no need to be super strong
Some folks use regular old table as a bench, and make the "box" from 4 props and the top piece of some thin plywood. Then the sides walls are made of multiple layers of thick PE foil and front from that same foil, cut into few segments. If you feel like investing some money into it, you can buy plexiglass plastic panel and build the front out of if. Sliding upwards/downwards for opening/closing the front of the hood. Like normal regular hoods use to have.
jkenned5
Member
Gov. of Canada stuff, no idea what they were used for; if sold to the public would they really sell stuff that contaminated?It is always good to know what have been done in that used hood. You do not want to buy some one contamined with unimaginable variety of nasty chemicals. If it is from some well established lab working with harmless stuff, OK. If it was from some other PM refiner who you does not know personally, I would reject.
My old colleague once in a while done a "towel test" - he wetted one square of paper towel in water, "cleaned" the bench, corners, intriguing "dusty" deposits and vent hole insides... And since he has done AAS regularly, he shoved it into the machine and then decided if he is interested
EDIT: Saw your other reply, could you recycle those 1cm thick plexiglass sheets from monitors as an interior wall attached to wood/plywood?
Hard to say. I would say if they knew it is bad, they won´t do that. But if they know, that is different question
usually, decomissioned stuff is sold by people who know nothing about it, and also history of the stuff... To the plexiglass, use whatever you want. Plastic is generally quite resistant to the vapors inside of the hood. If nothing form mist or wet aerosols, it will survive for quite a long time. If there would be condensation, it goes rather quickly to the trash. Apart of PP and PE plastic, they survive even wet acidic conditions.
zringmedia
New member
The old Dish Washers are PERFECT for an inside fume hood. If you search appliances stores and or repair
companies they are very cheap, especially if they don't work you can pick them up for nothing. Inside is designed to catch and retain fluid. Once the metal and door comes off they are incredible light and very portable. By adding plexiglass to the opening you have an enclosed and air tight unit. Easy to cut holes in the top for exhaust and light. Here are a couple photos of a FREE fume hood
Attachments
zringmedia
New member
The simplest design is to weld metal chassis from regular square steel profiles, and use thick PE foil for "curtains". Bench would be made of plywood reinforced with some same steel square profile from the bottom.
Exhaust hose would be simply taped to the top PE foil, and from the sides there would be "walls" made from multiple layers of that thick PE foil. Front of the hood will have PE foil curtains - depending on the length of the bench, divided to 3 or 4 segments. For work, you will simply take the segment and place it on the top of the hood. There is no need to have hermetically sealed walls, bottom or top of the hood if you have good exhaust fan, there is always negative pressure inside.
Metal chassis would be then treated with thick acid resistant paint layer.
Not artistic look, but we done well with this oversimplyfied design. Life expectancy is some few years of very heavy use of AR, lots of NOx-es and acids evaporation. All depends on the chassis maintenance. If you manage to protect it well - it will pay off. It is even advantageous to build the chassis from plastic-wood composite. Not that strong as steel, but fairly said - if you do not place any weight to the top of the "roof", there is no need to be super strong
Some folks use regular old table as a bench, and make the "box" from 4 props and the top piece of some thin plywood. Then the sides walls are made of multiple layers of thick PE foil and front from that same foil, cut into few segments. If you feel like investing some money into it, you can buy plexiglass plastic panel and build the front out of if. Sliding upwards/downwards for opening/closing the front of the hood. Like normal regular hoods use to have.
Small, yet interesting
jkenned5
Member
Didn't think to use a washer, great idea; flip it upside down and you have your vent hole as well.
