Did you see the 5 gal Buchner funnel i made from 2-5 gallon buckets?
Glassware (beakers) supplier I stumbled on
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I've been lucky to only break a couple of my 1L beaker, so the rest of my glassware is well used and the graduations are unreadable.
Is there a product that you can buy to remark the graduations on beakers?
Is there a product that you can buy to remark the graduations on beakers?
Is this Company still in business?
Yes.
Yes, it's very ingenious and I've reproduced it...but the filter itself isn't the problem. I want a vacuum receiver that allows me to take the lid off, set an empty 5 gallon bucket in it, then fill it up. Outside of splashes, the only wettable part is the filter funnel and the 5 gallon bucket it runs in to.
Oh, and I know how you love your vaseline, however if you need a more durable vacuum seal, butyl sealant tape works good. Available at the autobody shop.
I actually flipped a bucket over and poured the bottom lip full of MCU rubber to create a seal. Basically the same thing you are talking about. Somehow with my spring cleaning a year or two back it got lost, thrown away, or something.
Not quite. What you are describing is a giant filter. What I am describing is a giant vacuum chamber that you can put an entire 5 gallon bucket into to catch the filtrate.
Sorry for the crappy paint picture. My cad software is all license expired.
The orange is 14" PVC pipe cap
The reddish is 14" PVC
The green is a 5 gallon bucket inside
The blue is a 14" PVC bolted flange fitting
The red is a piece of 1" plexiglass
The purple is a large stemmed funnel. I have ones that take a 24 cm piece of filter paper.
So the PVC takes the vacuum. The 5 gallon bucket is in there just to catch the filtrate as it comes out of the filter stem.
Attachments
I know Ralph is a big fan of this company but they have taken this concept, which I have used for many years, and put it into their product line. Easy to duplicate but they give good visuals for the build.
Essentially it is a flat table top buchner funnel with a plate clamped to the top. The vacuum goes from your collection jug to the base of the funnel. A hose connected to the top of the plate is used to draw liquids from reaction vessels close by without lifting the vessel as the suction transfers to the hose and delivers the liquid to the plate of the buchner. Less lifting and pouring means less losses.
Buchner funnel plate
I do not mean to imply that I invented this system, once you see it the principle is quite simple but effective. I have used it for years.
Essentially it is a flat table top buchner funnel with a plate clamped to the top. The vacuum goes from your collection jug to the base of the funnel. A hose connected to the top of the plate is used to draw liquids from reaction vessels close by without lifting the vessel as the suction transfers to the hose and delivers the liquid to the plate of the buchner. Less lifting and pouring means less losses.
Buchner funnel plate
I do not mean to imply that I invented this system, once you see it the principle is quite simple but effective. I have used it for years.
I do love me some Shor!
Hi Sir. Do you have a link?
I would be interesting to see
I use 5L beakers, then 3,2,1 etc. But largest is 5L. I stumbled on few of those few years ago. Old SIMAX brand, quite thick glass. Max I am willing to put in is 4 liters. Then it is very unstable in gloved hands, espetially sweaty.
I like to grab the beaker by the upper edge with one hand and help with other hand from the bottom to pour the contents etc. That is my limit. If I cannot grab it on the upper edge with my fingers inside the beaker (not submerged), then I do not fill more. One has to think that one liter of saturated copper AP or AR is more than one kg. So you are lifting not 4kg but more than 5-6 kg for example. That is considerable weight and not all unbranded thin wall beakers could withstand this.
I had cracked beakers only from accidents with bad handling, denting the bottom of the beaker with stirring rod or it just slipped in wet gloved hands, denting the bottom and making expensive mess
More than 4-5 liters and I am making the thing in few parallel 5l beakers. More than 10L and it gets interesting How to heat the solution in plastic canister then it become considerably more difficult in the terms of handling and espetially heating. There are several tricks for this, but I mainly have duplicator or heating glass spiral for this. Insulation is very important... Etc. Whole another world When you leave safe world of beakers then, I would consider purchasing some durable peristaltic pump with BPT tube to withstand the corrosive liquids. Safe, easy, and convenient. It is also good for continous filtration systems (barrel to barrel).
I like to grab the beaker by the upper edge with one hand and help with other hand from the bottom to pour the contents etc. That is my limit. If I cannot grab it on the upper edge with my fingers inside the beaker (not submerged), then I do not fill more. One has to think that one liter of saturated copper AP or AR is more than one kg. So you are lifting not 4kg but more than 5-6 kg for example. That is considerable weight and not all unbranded thin wall beakers could withstand this.
I had cracked beakers only from accidents with bad handling, denting the bottom of the beaker with stirring rod or it just slipped in wet gloved hands, denting the bottom and making expensive mess
More than 4-5 liters and I am making the thing in few parallel 5l beakers. More than 10L and it gets interesting
How to heat the solution in plastic canister then it become considerably more difficult in the terms of handling and espetially heating. There are several tricks for this, but I mainly have duplicator or heating glass spiral for this. Insulation is very important... Etc. Whole another world When you leave safe world of beakers then, I would consider purchasing some durable peristaltic pump with BPT tube to withstand the corrosive liquids. Safe, easy, and convenient. It is also good for continous filtration systems (barrel to barrel).
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Never happened to me. Sorry to hear that, and now I am bit concerned.
Thanks for sharing the info.
It could have something to do with glass quality. When thermally stressed, even best brands could become brittle over time. I never heat anything to more than 150c in beakers that I regularly use. I have some that I use for the purpose of drying etc. These come even to 350c from time to time, but I do not use them for normal work.
I work with glass everyday, and I discovered that also prolonged exposure of glass to alkali could induce cracking.
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I always keep track of these guys just in case Beaker, 2000ml, Heat Resistant Glass, 190mm X 130mm
