solar_plasma
Well-known member
What yield did you have?
Glucose Test Strips
- Thread starter jmdlcar
- Start date
Help Support Gold Refining Forum:
Pantherlikher
Well-known member
This seems to be like alot of effort for so little return. I get 10x or so powder, spending 3 days washing dishes and glassware to remove the tiny gold trim.
So far, I'm thinking pyrolize it all and add to other questionable pyrolized material and HCL + Clorox as a whole after grinding to a powder. After of course, warmed HCL with a few drops of made AP for about a week to dissolve all base metals.
Since I gather everything and anything, I process like items until I get first gold drop, then add to the dirty powder beer glass which I will add spent HCL + Clorox or any AP when I need to cut it down in volume. For me, as I'm only collecting gold powder, as the best and most effecient way to process anything and everything. Any solution after this goes into my settling glass, very tall, and then into my copper bearing crock pot which does have gold missed.
I'm becomming comfortable doing different materials different ways. But in my "Work Smart Not Hard" thought process, It makes sense to me to get powder as quickly and cheaply as possible without polluting. Thus pyrolizing to reburn gasses and then dealing with the carbon mix.
Thoughts on pyrolizing these and other simm card type of material together?
I have alittle of alot of different things to get processed so wouldn't see any powder from each if done seperately.
B.S.
...There's a method to my kaotic madness. Just wish I knew what it was...
So far, I'm thinking pyrolize it all and add to other questionable pyrolized material and HCL + Clorox as a whole after grinding to a powder. After of course, warmed HCL with a few drops of made AP for about a week to dissolve all base metals.
Since I gather everything and anything, I process like items until I get first gold drop, then add to the dirty powder beer glass which I will add spent HCL + Clorox or any AP when I need to cut it down in volume. For me, as I'm only collecting gold powder, as the best and most effecient way to process anything and everything. Any solution after this goes into my settling glass, very tall, and then into my copper bearing crock pot which does have gold missed.
I'm becomming comfortable doing different materials different ways. But in my "Work Smart Not Hard" thought process, It makes sense to me to get powder as quickly and cheaply as possible without polluting. Thus pyrolizing to reburn gasses and then dealing with the carbon mix.
Thoughts on pyrolizing these and other simm card type of material together?
I have alittle of alot of different things to get processed so wouldn't see any powder from each if done seperately.
B.S.
...There's a method to my kaotic madness. Just wish I knew what it was...
solar_plasma
Well-known member
I would read this thread once more: There are no basemetals on glucose strips and the goldplating goes through the whole of the strip. The yield was 0,4g/1000pieces, if I remember right. 1000 pieces weight is 186 g or so their yield is in fact comparable to flatpacks.
Why not incinerat the strips? It would remove the carbon too.Pantherlikher said:
I would probably incinerate and then leach the ash. I wouldn't mix it with simm cards, those I would process quite differently.
Göran
manorman
Well-known member
in some bottles of Bayer Contour test strips is a little plastic bag, i had never paid it any mind until today i read the writing and it says "DO NO EAT Contains Palladium".
I see the newer bottles of test strips do not have the bag, but its looks like the new 50 count containers have the same material in a built in compartment in the bottom of the contianer. might be another source to look out for.
i assume its to keep the test strips from going bad.
I see the newer bottles of test strips do not have the bag, but its looks like the new 50 count containers have the same material in a built in compartment in the bottom of the contianer. might be another source to look out for.
i assume its to keep the test strips from going bad.
Richard NL
Well-known member
In my quest to learn, a few points of interest.
In the new glucose strips there are no base metals, only carbon based materials.
On the Used glucose strips there cut by some old blood, base metal iron, hemoglobin, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemoglobin
"Dan Klorix" also contains: Sodium Carbonate 4-6% (washing soda, soda ash).
http://www.metro-haccp.com/at/data/at/upload/product/security_notice/7524.pdf
Ethyl acetat/Ethyl acetate still dangerous: Incompatibility with various substances:
Reactive with oxidizing agents, acids, alkali.
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927165
But if you completely evaporate it (Ethyl acetate)and wash with water before you go to the next stages, i think you are OK.
Please correct me if I'm wrong or made a mistake, i am still learning.
Best regards Richard.
In the new glucose strips there are no base metals, only carbon based materials.
On the Used glucose strips there cut by some old blood, base metal iron, hemoglobin, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemoglobin
"Dan Klorix" also contains: Sodium Carbonate 4-6% (washing soda, soda ash).
http://www.metro-haccp.com/at/data/at/upload/product/security_notice/7524.pdf
Ethyl acetat/Ethyl acetate still dangerous: Incompatibility with various substances:
Reactive with oxidizing agents, acids, alkali.
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927165
But if you completely evaporate it (Ethyl acetate)and wash with water before you go to the next stages, i think you are OK.
Please correct me if I'm wrong or made a mistake, i am still learning.
Best regards Richard.
solar_plasma
Well-known member
I stay corrected, on used strips there is iron because of the hemoglobin. :lol: Good point!
I been reading this forum and interested since I am diabetic and use these strips. The ones I have are "Accu-Chek" and they have gold trace from end to end, with a plastic layer over the trace lines. This plastic layer peels off easy leaving the glue like cellophane tape glue. My thoughts would be to use the glue remover called (goo gone) that will soften the glue so you can simply wipe it off. Has anyone tried and had any problems of contamination from chemically removing the glue? I would also think soaking these in isopropyl alcohol would loosen the glue fairly well.
I get these strips free from VA Pharmacy so this seems a no brainer to give this a go. Good luck to us all...
I get these strips free from VA Pharmacy so this seems a no brainer to give this a go. Good luck to us all...
solar_plasma
Well-known member
Incineration makes a lot of fine white ash, needs to get leached several times for quite little gold.
I have not been satisfied by any "household"-solvents, still too much work.
Only removing the blue tape and leach the white pieces directly two times in AR (second one only water) until no more yellow left in the glue was lowest effort and gave good results for me. Incompletely stripped pieces can be saved for the next batch.
2500 pieces should yield 1 g gold.
I have not been satisfied by any "household"-solvents, still too much work.
Only removing the blue tape and leach the white pieces directly two times in AR (second one only water) until no more yellow left in the glue was lowest effort and gave good results for me. Incompletely stripped pieces can be saved for the next batch.
2500 pieces should yield 1 g gold.
solar_plasma
Well-known member
I did it, removed the blue tape, then put the white pieces with gold AND glue one by one into HCl, added 1-2ml HNO3 per g gold and the acid worked right through the glue dissolving the gold.
Nostradomus
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 12
Hey I am in the middle of reading all the posts on refining glucose strips. As for what I have read so far there is a lot of problems with people and removing the glue off the strips prior to putting them in the HCL+Clorox. I was wondering has anyone tried rubbing alcohol which I know will break down most glues that I have encountered. How to use it I am not sure I was thinking first thought to soak it in the alcohol or maybe mist and scrub or something was just wondering if anyone has tried it???
Did the nitric acid dissolve the glue into the solution? And if so would that not contaminate the solution? I know it would be a pain to singly soak and rub the glue from 1000 or so strips, but if it saved all that glue residue from getting into the hydrochloric/nitric acid solution with the gold - I would do it. But if it don't dissolve, and can be filtered as clumps - so much better.solar_plasma said:
solar_plasma
Well-known member
The glue stayed. Probably there might be some organic contaminants, but the yield of precipitated gold matched to my samples, where I had removed the glue before dissolving the gold. The only problem is, that even if you put the strips into the acid one by one, some will cling together, preventing some strips to strip completely. They were added to the next batch.
I used enough HCl to cover the strips and only enough nitric as needed. I leached the strips with water until white. Using the same AR on several batches reduces the amount of liquids to handle. When I do it next time, I will only use 100 pieces per batch and use 10-25 batches on the same AR, doing 1-2 batches per day.
I used enough HCl to cover the strips and only enough nitric as needed. I leached the strips with water until white. Using the same AR on several batches reduces the amount of liquids to handle. When I do it next time, I will only use 100 pieces per batch and use 10-25 batches on the same AR, doing 1-2 batches per day.
solar_plasma
Well-known member
I can only tell what worked best for me since I tried all variants which have been discussed in this thread. I got the gold every time. There is nothing wrong in trying those variants in small batches on your own and choose the best for you. Also in science theories need to get confirmed or disproved by other teams in other locations. I am glad if I could help a little.
necromancer
Well-known member
solar_plasma
Well-known member
jmdlcar said:
@jmdlcar and mdghamon
How do you explain, that you got 9,01 grams/1000pieces from accu-check, when I got constantly 0,4g/1000pieces from several batches with expiration dates from 2008 to 2014, both from USA and Germany? I say, maybe you two had gotten an older batch, that yielded 20 times as much as all of mine, who knows, but obviously that is not true for 2008-2014.
I want to caution anyone against believing, there is that much gold in those accu-checks!
Yesterday I did a AR leach on a batch of 2500 accu-chek strips that were peeled. I did all 2500 at one time and have a nice yellow solution from that. I didn't look through the strips yet but they all look free of gold. Today I'll drop with SMB and see what I have. It only took about 2ml of concentrated nitric to strip the batch so I don't expect big yields.
Hi every one, I found this to be very interesting, no I have not read all the posts and have no intention to. So what I am about to say may have already been said. It would seem only logical that the original cost for the strips would likely dictate the quantity of PM. The age would also play a big part just as it does with any E Scrap with precious medals.
Why do I make this statement? Well I have been married 27 years to a type 2 diabetic. Test strips vary in price based on the brand. Of course the brand name has a bit to do with the price but the material used in the strip would make the biggest difference.
Having said that, it makes me want to cry. let me do the math. 27 years 365 days a year 4 tests a day, minimum 39420 test strips thrown in the trash. No telling the loss. Wow wow wow is all I can say. To add insult to injury, most of the time we had the financial ability to purchase very high end test strips. The average cost was around $160 US per month, the best there was in short. If my statement above about cost verses content is correct. Well you can see my point. We do however have about 10 test machines in a drawer.
If anyone cares to make me more sick to my stomach. Post an estimated value of what we have thrown away. I cant bring my self to do it...lol
Joe
Why do I make this statement? Well I have been married 27 years to a type 2 diabetic. Test strips vary in price based on the brand. Of course the brand name has a bit to do with the price but the material used in the strip would make the biggest difference.
Having said that, it makes me want to cry. let me do the math. 27 years 365 days a year 4 tests a day, minimum 39420 test strips thrown in the trash. No telling the loss. Wow wow wow is all I can say. To add insult to injury, most of the time we had the financial ability to purchase very high end test strips. The average cost was around $160 US per month, the best there was in short. If my statement above about cost verses content is correct. Well you can see my point. We do however have about 10 test machines in a drawer.
If anyone cares to make me more sick to my stomach. Post an estimated value of what we have thrown away. I cant bring my self to do it...lol
Joe
