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Looks like you are using graphite crucible for torch/open fire melting. These two does not combine well as graphite burns in the air :)

Get silica melting dishes, they are cheap on Aliexpress. And if you melt only metals in them, they last very very long. Just pinch of borax to glaze them and you are good to go.
Yes I used this to melt the gold only. You were right earlier on about these graphite ones creaking and shrinking in the process.

I had the white silica dish you're talking about, it came with this graphite crucible as a set, but I tried melting copper in it using this butane gas with very little insulation. It resulted in the copper attached to the crucible and while I was trying to pry it out, the crucible kind of broke. I have re ordered another, as yes again you're right. They're better :)
 
Yes I used this to melt the gold only. You were right earlier on about these graphite ones creaking and shrinking in the process.

I had the white silica dish you're talking about, it came with this graphite crucible as a set, but I tried melting copper in it using this butane gas with very little insulation. It resulted in the copper attached to the crucible and while I was trying to pry it out, the crucible kind of broke. I have re ordered another, as yes again you're right. They're better :)

You can get some 2" kaowool from Amazon....cut two 5 inch square pieces (or what whatever size). Then cut out a hole in one piece just big enough for your melting dish. Stack the holed one on the other, then insert the dish. That should insulate all the way around the melting dish. As long as you're not to rough handling kaowool it will last for a long time.

Also, once you crush kaowool down it will not return to it's original thickness and try not to drip melted borax on it.


edited for kaowool thickness.
 
Find Lazersteve’s post about mini melting furnace and it shows how to make a furnace for melting gold in a dish from a single soft fire brick. They work very well for a small amount of effort.
 
Laziness can sometimes be a blessing too.. I wanted to clean this crucible with the dilute sulfuric solution as suggested by @BlackLabel, but instead of hopping to the market to fetch some sulfuric, I tried this little cleaning experiment with a 50Ml 5M citric acid (aq) solution. It worked great. I dipped theb crucible in a 100 ml beaker and poured the solution over it slowly and instantly there was a reaction. I dont know what caused it to do so. But here we are 45 minutes later... With frequent swirls of the beaker throughout and observing carefully if any more was needed. I added the solution in parts, like 30 Ml then 10 then 10. It worked magic. This process detached the borax and dissolved some of it though not all... But unfortunately there was no gold under there. Maybe a tiny speck that I couldn't see, I wasn't too sure of it.
Too bad.
From your Photos, it looks like there some "yellowish" spots inside the hardened borax.
I was quite sure, there's some 0.x milligrams of gold encapsulated inside the borax.
 
You can get some 2" kaowool from Amazon....cut two 5 inch square pieces (or what whatever size). Then cut out a hole in one piece just big enough for your melting dish. Stack the holed one on the other, then insert the dish. That should insulate all the way around the melting dish. As long as you're not to rough handling kaowool it will last for a long time.

Also, once you crush kaowool down it will not return to it's original thickness and try not to drip melted borax on it.


edited for kaowool thickness.
I have kaowool now. Had ordered it to make my mini charcoal furnace, I used this graphite one in that. But thanks for this technique you've mentioned. Would love to try it out as I've yet to melt this ugly flake of mine into a nice button. :)
 
Find Lazersteve’s post about mini melting furnace and it shows how to make a furnace for melting gold in a dish from a single soft fire brick. They work very well for a small amount of effort.
I did go through this earlier today, we don't have firebricks available like mentioned in his post although I loved the way they are constructed. So I'll have to make way using plaster of paris for the same. Lets see how that turns out. Will first try using the method as mentioned by eaglekeeper above then proceed on with this too. Thanks for the direction though
 
Too bad.
From your Photos, it looks like there some "yellowish" spots inside the hardened borax.
I was quite sure, there's some 0.x milligrams of gold encapsulated inside the borax.
I know man, I was hoping to see some gold being recovered too. Maybe the yellowish spots you were seeing were from the warm-light above me and kind of reflected when I'd shown the flash light over the crucible to take a snap. I was relieved to see the condition of crucible :) but disappointed to find no gold buried under :( . Mixed emotions.
 
Yes I used this to melt the gold only. You were right earlier on about these graphite ones creaking and shrinking in the process.

I had the white silica dish you're talking about, it came with this graphite crucible as a set, but I tried melting copper in it using this butane gas with very little insulation. It resulted in the copper attached to the crucible and while I was trying to pry it out, the crucible kind of broke. I have re ordered another, as yes again you're right. They're better :)
Glazing silica dishes is important, as metals tent to stick to the silica surface. Mainly ones with low melting point, as metal does not have that much room to shrink besides silica. Two different coeficients of thermal expansion (metal vs. silica) cause the bead to naturally separate from the dish in many circumstances. Like melting PGMs in silica - it is relatively OK and if you does not fill the crucible too much, it can be easily pried out with tweezers or dull knife.

You don´t want borax glazing when you are going to high temperatures, as it will significantly dissolve silica and create very thick viscous "slag", and eventually turn the bottom of the dish to jelly like material, rendering it essentially useless for melting.
Opposed, you want to glaze dishes with borax for melting common metals (gold, silver, copper, lower melting base metals and alloys) as it is much easier to coalesce the molten metal to one bead/puddle, as drops of molten metal can slide better on the walls of the dish.
-----

For melting, insulation is crucial. Propane/air torch physically cannot reach that high temperatures, so the heat transfer to the melting metal isn´t that great - temperature gradient is very small. So it often took ages to heat up, despite you are pumping big power into the furnance. That is why it is important to retain as much heat in the crucible as you possibly can. Kaowool is perfect for this, and some types of firebricks can also do the trick - "foam" ones, which are not solid, but made of refractory clay/cement foam. Solid firebricks have significant coeficients of heat conduction, so they suck out the heat from the molten metal very quickly.
Minimal insulation requirement is from the bottom, you need to place the dish/crucible on some refractory material with good insulation properties. Then comes the sides of the dish to minimize cooling from the sides. Last is the insulation from the top, as radiation heat loss from infrared spectra is very significant at issued temperatures. This is sometimes hard to do, as you need to place burner somewhere etc... But essentially, with good bottom and sides insulation of the dish, you can melt gold relatively easily even with just propane/air torch.
It is also good to consider that still air is one of the best insulators you can have, so minimize direct contact of the heated object with any worse insulators like bricks, tongs, dish holders etc..

And just make sure it isn´t windy outdoors :) As slightest wind can ruin all the work when heating the metal to the temperature :)
Good luck melting :)
 
Glazing silica dishes is important, as metals tent to stick to the silica surface. Mainly ones with low melting point, as metal does not have that much room to shrink besides silica. Two different coeficients of thermal expansion (metal vs. silica) cause the bead to naturally separate from the dish in many circumstances. Like melting PGMs in silica - it is relatively OK and if you does not fill the crucible too much, it can be easily pried out with tweezers or dull knife.

You don´t want borax glazing when you are going to high temperatures, as it will significantly dissolve silica and create very thick viscous "slag", and eventually turn the bottom of the dish to jelly like material, rendering it essentially useless for melting.
Opposed, you want to glaze dishes with borax for melting common metals (gold, silver, copper, lower melting base metals and alloys) as it is much easier to coalesce the molten metal to one bead/puddle, as drops of molten metal can slide better on the walls of the dish.
-----

For melting, insulation is crucial. Propane/air torch physically cannot reach that high temperatures, so the heat transfer to the melting metal isn´t that great - temperature gradient is very small. So it often took ages to heat up, despite you are pumping big power into the furnance. That is why it is important to retain as much heat in the crucible as you possibly can. Kaowool is perfect for this, and some types of firebricks can also do the trick - "foam" ones, which are not solid, but made of refractory clay/cement foam. Solid firebricks have significant coeficients of heat conduction, so they suck out the heat from the molten metal very quickly.
Minimal insulation requirement is from the bottom, you need to place the dish/crucible on some refractory material with good insulation properties. Then comes the sides of the dish to minimize cooling from the sides. Last is the insulation from the top, as radiation heat loss from infrared spectra is very significant at issued temperatures. This is sometimes hard to do, as you need to place burner somewhere etc... But essentially, with good bottom and sides insulation of the dish, you can melt gold relatively easily even with just propane/air torch.
It is also good to consider that still air is one of the best insulators you can have, so minimize direct contact of the heated object with any worse insulators like bricks, tongs, dish holders etc..

And just make sure it isn´t windy outdoors :) As slightest wind can ruin all the work when heating the metal to the temperature :)
Good luck melting :)
Wow! I really love the detailed information you have shared here @orvi and thankyou so much for the time you took to write it down and enhance my poor knowledge. I will read this mini-article again and again to absorb and understand as much as I can. And yeah as I'd mentioned earlier I'll be using the kaowool technique as mentioned by @eaglekeeper earlier, but ofcourse bearing in mind the details mentioned by you and in many of @lazersteve posts about the furnace.

You guys are great. Thankyou!
 
Yes sir, I'm aware of the no political or religious rule here, but no offense here its just a way of saying "by the will of God", nothing more nothing less. I don't see anything religious in this. Anyone can say it, no harm :)

But if it could cause any stirs around here, I won't use it
so, it loosley translates to “God willing” … I think that both should be allowed or disallowed. I recommend the latter for the sake of clear lines that don’t invite a lot of hair splitting. If “God” is, or is implied to be a proper noun, the use relates to religion. imho
 
it loosley translates to “God willing”
Hi,

Not loosely, directly translates to it. As stated before no harm to anyone saying it, but the contrary is your first comment on a non-religious forum came to this? NO offense, but focus on the purpose of this forum other than resurfacing irrelevant concerns brother. Maybe you can PM for a more religious discussion and I'll be open to that :) GOD bless!
 
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