Gwar
Well-known member
Hello, I was pondering the different styles of making silver bars / rounds look more professional when completed, are there any tips or methods members use and would like to share ?
The original material started as sterling silver, processed it with nitric acid, then turned it into cement silver, then shot for the silver cell, turned it into silver crystal, then this 10 ozt bar.Good job, what’s original material you use?
I got my induction furnace at an auction, A glass company went out of business and I was the only bidder for it. I paid $750, I don't think anyone else at the auction knew what it was.Thanks for the replies, cambellj46, I have investigated the induction furnace method, but it seems rather expensive, the ones I looked at were in the many thousands of dollars range, are there better rigs that use this technology with a lower price tag? I use a wet sanding process with two different fine grit (I do lose a few grams per bar) and then I place them in a tumbler drum with polishing compound / blue aggregate, I suppose I could rework this one for a cleaner lookView attachment 49556
Again? I apologize I missed the second one. I would've given another eulogy, you have my sympathies.Hello AMS-Pro, all has been well, I had a minor setback, the new furnace broke, again.. Just by luck my neighbor builds propane fed crucible's and he is crafting one now, I have been busy at work, so the progress has halted a bit, back up and running again soon I hope, Take care, G
that finish looks really good I have not been able to come even close to that yeti seem to be overheating or not cooling properly. I also think I need to stop adding the borax powder to me it makes it worse it sticks to the silver making it harder to clean off the bars. someone told me to add a little borax powder to your malt but I personally thought borax was just to remove the so called crap from the medal any types of impurities bust If the coins or coins I am melting to make my own bar doesn't have any impurities is the borax necessary to use and also I was told I very high heat tolerant oil or lubricant in the mold can help with keeping the poor smooth and shiny but most I have tried so far set fire and leave black and colored materiel into your poor again making it really hard to polish out of the silver.A close up of the finish after melting and cooling. I don't know if I need a "smoother" crucible mold to melt the metal, but this is the best finish I have been able to achieve, so far.
View attachment 49538
Welcome.that finish looks really good I have not been able to come even close to that yeti seem to be overheating or not cooling properly. I also think I need to stop adding the borax powder to me it makes it worse it sticks to the silver making it harder to clean off the bars. someone told me to add a little borax powder to your malt but I personally thought borax was just to remove the so called crap from the medal any types of impurities bust If the coins or coins I am melting to make my own bar doesn't have any impurities is the borax necessary to use and also I was told I very high heat tolerant oil or lubricant in the mold can help with keeping the poor smooth and shiny but most I have tried so far set fire and leave black and colored materiel into your poor again making it really hard to polish out of the silver.
well to start seems like you did just fine with my lack of commas and other punctuation just less I have to type. you seem to have had no issues reading it and understanding it perfectly, I melt in a temp. controlled smelter with propane gas. I try to use crucibles that my buddy makes it has a screw on door top that keeps things from falling into the molten metal I usually just poor directly into the heated molds always preheated to at least 150 to 250 degrees of the metal itself. my crucible has a small spout with a small air hole to allow the metal to pour out with out splashing allowing small amounts of air into the container as the metal comes out.so should I pour faster allowing less oxygen to absorb? and I melting coins cause these have no set value if you cant really tell what the coins is the coins I melt are not even legible so it's easier to make a kilo bar than have a bunch of coins with unreadable dates or faces are so worn out you can barely even tell what the coins is. that's why I melt them I don't melt anything that can be seen what it is by the naked eye or has a date every coin I melt is pretty much almost completely worn down and unreadable there for has no coin value if you cant see the artwork on the coins or the date at all no one will be able to give you a value therefore easier to melt into a bar and shine up at least that way its easier to store and i also make some of the coins I melt down into pendants with custom engraving and I can sell them for over the spot price of silver I sell one ounce pendants for like 45 dollars depending on the engraving and 2 ounce can go as much as 80 just something I do for fun. I am having more trouble getting pure gold to drop from my agua regia. also there has to be a better way to filter out the regia and getting the flakes off the filters to purify the gold I processed close to three ounces of pins and processor with nitric acid now I have a crap load of gold flake mixed with a little sludge and broken down filter the last time I put this in my agua regia I couldn't get the gold to drop at all I still have a container that should have close to 3 grams of pure gold that I can never figure out how to get it to separate out of the regia.Welcome.
Try to make sentences with commas, periods and line spaces.
This is really hard to read.
How do you melt it?
Gas or electric?
The mold can be dressed with oil or even better soot.
How do you pour it?
Molten Silver really love Oxygen and will soak up Oxygen from the air, which will be ejected as it solidify.
Why are you melting coins?
They have a set value and as soon they are melted, the value of the bar is just what someone are willing to pay.
Sometimes much less than metal content.