How much urea required for neutralizing 10 litre aquaregia solution?

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Barthel732 said:
Sorry it was 40 grams of pins I put into the nitric first. I didn’t weigh the yield after the nitric and base metals. I gotta get better at describing things and details.
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For cleaning up pins, you should do the following;
1. Put in a beaker, not a Mason jar, with secondary containment. If that jar breaks, you will have a spill.
2. Add HCL to dissolve whatever metals are soluble in that acid. Wash with distilled water in between HCL additions, until all reactions stop.
3. Boil with distilled again, and possibly again, until all HCL is removed.
4. Then add Nitric, and repeat, until all reactions have ceased. Wash, wash, wash.
5. Now you can add the HCL, just enough to cover material. Add Nitric with an I dropper. Add until Au is dissolved. This can take a while, do not get in a rush, or you will over use the Nitric. A little heat will speed the reaction. This should be done in a secondary containment, with a beaker. If you use the Mason jar, this is where you are likely to have a spill.
6. Now de NOX with Sulfamic, while solution is warm.
7. Cool with distilled ice cubes
8.Filter solution to remove any particles.
9. Drop with SMB.
10. Check solution with Stannous to insure all Au is removed with SMB.
11. Wash powders with HCL, then distilled a couple times.
12. Melt in dish with torch, and pour into desired mold.
Forgot to mention the addition of a couple drops of Sulfuric during step 5, to drop any Lead.
By now you will see that you have quite an investment in time, chemicals, lab ware, torches, molds, Etc. Not to mention a fume hood.
I understand the interest in what you are doing, but unless you want to continue this, you should invest in the proper stuff.
As Kurtak said, you are currently operating at a loss, and doing this dangerously. As Yddrasil said, you have a lot of studying. Please do so. A crash course in this , would be to watch some Sreetips videos. Even he is working with just enough to do it safely, and efficiently.
 
goldshark said:
For cleaning up pins, you should do the following;
1. Put in a beaker, not a Mason jar, with secondary containment. If that jar breaks, you will have a spill.
2. Add HCL to dissolve whatever metals are soluble in that acid. Wash with distilled water in between HCL additions, until all reactions stop.
3. Boil with distilled again, and possibly again, until all HCL is removed.
4. Then add Nitric, and repeat, until all reactions have ceased. Wash, wash, wash.
5. Now you can add the HCL, just enough to cover material. Add Nitric with an I dropper. Add until Au is dissolved. This can take a while, do not get in a rush, or you will over use the Nitric. A little heat will speed the reaction. This should be done in a secondary containment, with a beaker. If you use the Mason jar, this is where you are likely to have a spill.
6. Now de NOX with Sulfamic, while solution is warm.
7. Cool with distilled ice cubes
8.Filter solution to remove any particles.
9. Drop with SMB.
10. Check solution with Stannous to insure all Au is removed with SMB.
11. Wash powders with HCL, then distilled a couple times.
12. Melt in dish with torch, and pour into desired mold.
Forgot to mention the addition of a couple drops of Sulfuric during step 5, to drop any Lead.
By now you will see that you have quite an investment in time, chemicals, lab ware, torches, molds, Etc. Not to mention a fume hood.
I understand the interest in what you are doing, but unless you want to continue this, you should invest in the proper stuff.
As Kurtak said, you are currently operating at a loss, and doing this dangerously. As Yddrasil said, you have a lot of studying. Please do so. A crash course in this , would be to watch some Sreetips videos. Even he is working with just enough to do it safely, and efficiently.
Click to expand...
I disagree a bit here.
Best to go with Cupric Chloride leach.
But if you go the HCl - Nitric route you need to roast the material in between the acids.
No washing will be able to remove the acids.
And regarding the dissolving the best is to use either Bleach Peroxide or pool Chlorine with the HCl.
This will give no need for denoxing.
And if you use Sulfamic no need for Sulfuric, but if you use the other methods Sulfuric is a god idea.
 
Yggdrasil said:
I disagree a bit here.
Best to go with Cupric Chloride leach.
But if you go the HCl - Nitric route you need to roast the material in between the acids.
No washing will be able to remove the acids.
And regarding the dissolving the best is to use either Bleach Peroxide or pool Chlorine with the HCl.
This will give no need for denoxing.
And if you use Sulfamic no need for Sulfuric, but if you use the other methods Sulfuric is a god idea.
Click to expand...
I didn't want to throw more fuel ( confusion ) to the fire. He started down one road, so just wanted to streamline that technique, before letting him know there are a few ways to do the pins. I do agree with you on your post.
 
To add to the conversation with Yggdrasil and goldshark… I could have suggested a quicker way, but as mentioned, I wanted to stick near the op’s original plan. Personally for iron based I prefer to boil in HCl. But for small amounts such as this, trying the different methods is a good way to develop other lab skills as well. The gold recovered from my first ten try’s totaled less than 7 grams. Financially it was a total loss, educationally it was great. I now feel I should have ask more about where he stands experience wise.
 
Just to clarify a point I made previously.

I feel it isn’t wise for beginners to start out by using very hot or boiling acid. Too often they are using jars and glasses and often will shock these poor excuses for beakers into breaking. I know ways around this, but honestly it is just easier and less stressful to buy a couple of nice 3.0 borosilicate beakers.
 
goldshark said:
For cleaning up pins, you should do the following;
1. Put in a beaker, not a Mason jar, with secondary containment. If that jar breaks, you will have a spill.
2. Add HCL to dissolve whatever metals are soluble in that acid. Wash with distilled water in between HCL additions, until all reactions stop.
3. Boil with distilled again, and possibly again, until all HCL is removed.
4. Then add Nitric, and repeat, until all reactions have ceased. Wash, wash, wash.
5. Now you can add the HCL, just enough to cover material. Add Nitric with an I dropper. Add until Au is dissolved. This can take a while, do not get in a rush, or you will over use the Nitric. A little heat will speed the reaction. This should be done in a secondary containment, with a beaker. If you use the Mason jar, this is where you are likely to have a spill.
6. Now de NOX with Sulfamic, while solution is warm.
7. Cool with distilled ice cubes
8.Filter solution to remove any particles.
9. Drop with SMB.
10. Check solution with Stannous to insure all Au is removed with SMB.
11. Wash powders with HCL, then distilled a couple times.
12. Melt in dish with torch, and pour into desired mold.
Forgot to mention the addition of a couple drops of Sulfuric during step 5, to drop any Lead.
By now you will see that you have quite an investment in time, chemicals, lab ware, torches, molds, Etc. Not to mention a fume hood.
I understand the interest in what you are doing, but unless you want to continue this, you should invest in the proper stuff.
As Kurtak said, you are currently operating at a loss, and doing this dangerously. As Yddrasil said, you have a lot of studying. Please do so. A crash course in this , would be to watch some Sreetips videos. Even he is working with just enough to do it safely, and efficiently.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you for the information. I buy cases of mason jars so they’re brand new and I have never had any break yet and I keep a Pyrex dish under just in case it does break
 
Barthel732 said:
Ok thank you for the information. I buy cases of mason jars so they’re brand new and I have never had any break yet and I keep a Pyrex dish under just in case it does break
Click to expand...
Amazon has cheap beakers that are good quality, for the price of a case of mason jars you can have a nice set of beakers and free shipping.

Using beakers with also allow you to measure your acid accurately and reduce the risk of breaking.
 
Barthel732 said:
Ok thank you for the information. I buy cases of mason jars so they’re brand new and I have never had any break yet and I keep a Pyrex dish under just in case it does break
Click to expand...
I use Mason jars, and their sister brand Kerr. They are barely marginal for home canning. Roughly 4% break while while canning simple things like tuna. Closer to 2% when preserving pickled vegetables due to no pressure being required.

I currently use most of my jars for vacuum sealing dry foodstuffs. I still lose almost 4% due to stress.

I would very much like to never use them in recovery or refining of precious metals. The uneven heat application when warming a solution of the sudden extreme heat of an exothermal reaction is hard enough on borosilicates of quality lab glass.

Maybe it’s just me, but I prefer the right tool for the job.

Time for more coffee.
 
galenrog said:
I use Mason jars, and their sister brand Kerr. They are barely marginal for home canning. Roughly 4% break while while canning simple things like tuna. Closer to 2% when preserving pickled vegetables due to no pressure being required.

I currently use most of my jars for vacuum sealing dry foodstuffs. I still lose almost 4% due to stress.

I would very much like to never use them in recovery or refining of precious metals. The uneven heat application when warming a solution of the sudden extreme heat of an exothermal reaction is hard enough on borosilicates of quality lab glass.

Maybe it’s just me, but I prefer the right tool for the job.

Time for more coffee.
Click to expand...
I get it. I ordered beakers. If I have an item where the gold plating will not come of in nitro can I just put it in aqua regia as is?
 
I had horrible experience with bicarbonate, too damn reactive. sodium hydroxide worked better but it heat's things up so damn much. Using the right amount and temp makes things go so much smoother.
 
andu said:
I had horrible experience with bicarbonate, too damn reactive. sodium hydroxide worked better but it heat's things up so damn much. Using the right amount and temp makes things go so much smoother.
Click to expand...
Where did this come from?
It is not related to this discussion?
 
Yggdrasil said:
Welcome in.

Sodium bicarbonate can be used to a lot of things.
But it is impossible for any to answer your question until we know what you wish to do.
Click to expand...
Thought I messed up but yes it does belong to this thread. Since I read the whole of it and I sorts of answered two years back, yes it's confusing.
 
andu said:
Thought I messed up but yes it does belong to this thread. Since I read the whole of it and I sorts of answered two years back, yes it's confusing.
Click to expand...
Please Andu reply to the post you refer to.
Now you are making it even more confusing by replying to my reply to a completely different person.
What is happening??
 
Could you simply erase these posts to avoid confusion? Perhaps I will make a proper one later on and explain my points.
 
andu said:
Could you simply erase these posts to avoid confusion? Perhaps I will make a proper one later on and explain my points.
Click to expand...
I want you and others for that matter to press reply to the posts you are commenting/replying to
instead of just add replies to no post or to random posts.
A blank reply is Ok if you add general information suiting the topic.
You have been here long enough to know this.
 

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