Induction Heater Plans

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I am sure I can get all the parts together. Now, if I can just get someone to put it together for me....yea.

I am a pretty good welder, but never was much for soldering. Perhaps if I just got someone to put the circut board together.
 
All,

I've ordered enough parts to build at least 10 of the low voltage circuit boards. If anyone wants one built let me know I'll get a price and post them on my website.

Steve
 
I'd be interested in buying a complete unit or kit after I see a video of you melting Pd or Pt with it.
 
I would be interested in a complete unit also Steve or a kit with all the pieces there so I can sit down with my boy and build it together like a HeathKit type deal - I just know I dont have the time to go looking for all the pieces but I could buy complete or buy a kit to build!

Let me know Steve - I am very interested!

PS. The balls are coming along nicely - all the silver is complete just have to start on the gold now. Started some gold balls in 50/50 nitric - just think I have to heat the dilute nitric on the gold balls - sitting cold im just getting a little blue solution (too cold here for the acid to react).

Glynn
 
Ralph,

It's really a big challenge.

The unit in the original video operates at around 3.1 kW output power. The author of that video said I should be able to get 10kW out of the unit off of US mains due to the higher amps we have here (?) in our line circuits.

If the 3.1 kW unit reaches temperature enough to melt vanadium-steel alloy the 10 kW unit should be able to melt Pd and Pt (I'm hoping). It will definitely be interesting to try.

Gold, silver, and even copper should be a walk in the park for the rig even at 3.1 kW.

Steve
 
More KW should allow you to melt a larger volume not sure it would affect the ultimate temperature reached. 10 kw = 34000 or so btu/hr the specific heat of the objected to be melted would determine the temperature you would reach in 1 hour, though I doubt you would let it run that long.

Jim
 
Oh, you don't have to tell me i know the difficulties involved.

I was thinking legal liability issue a little while ago. If you sell the assembled unit you will be labile, but if you sell the kit at least you will have some distance from that issue. As far as i know a kit could be almost pre fabed with very little assembly required by the buyer just as long as it's not sold as a ready made product. Call it for educational purposes only.

Just a thought.
 
I probably have a lot of the parts on hand but I know what a pain it is to find parts that work correctly and tweak them.

My sig says it all.

Do you think a 220V model would be better? Many folks have a 220V service connection for an electric stove which would be more appropriate for this level of power usage.

There's always some peckerwood who will try to run it on a cheap 110V extension cord and burn their house down.
 
All,

I've completed the work coil today.

Here's a photo:

[img:536:1114]http://www.goldrecovery.us/images/work_coil.jpg[/img]


It's made of 1/4" ID (3/8" OD) soft copper tubing. I've added some brass couplings to allow the coil to be swapped out at a later date if desired to suit suit various work pieces.

I also received the T1 500:1 current transformers today that I had ordered. I have plenty of them if anyone is interested.

I'm working on a quick etch pattern for the inverter/ IGBT driver board. I plan on etching them using an industrial CO2 laser that I have access to. I've never etched a PCB with the laser so it should prove to be interesting. If the laser test works I'll be able to produce the boards as they are needed. If not I'll have to go with an AP etch bath instead. The CO2 laser is already in production using AutoCad DXF files to carve tool kit foam so I'm working on a DXF of the circuit layout to drive the laser. The laser is more than capable of cutting metal so the copper clad layer on the PCB's should not pose a real problem.

I'm still waiting on my Celem capacitors (C1 & C2) to arrive from Israel. They are due to show around the end of February. I plan on having the remainder of the project assembled by the time they arrive.

Steve
 
You can be proud of the job you did on the coil, Steve. Looks very professional.


Harold
 
Thank you Harold.

It nearly killed me to bend the thing. I used one of those cheap spring style coil benders. It worked, but it's really hard on the hands.

Years ago I used to work in an assembly plant where we built controller cabinets from blueprints and a bunch of raw materials. We had to build everything from scratch. Some of the cabinets called for copper tubing to be routed throughout the assembly. I learned everything I know about bending copper at that job. We used the fancy swing arm benders to do the tubing back then. I'm not sure I could have made the loops as well using the swing arm bender.

Steve
 
lazersteve said:
I'm not sure I could have made the loops as well using the swing arm bender.

Steve
Click to expand...

In my opinion, the only way you could have come close to duplicating your success would to have wound the coil on a form that had the proper diameter grooves machined, along with the proper lead. I studied the coil for quite a while. I'm truly impressed. It shows you know more than nothing about forming tubing.

Harold
 
I agree with Harold you did an excellent job on that coil. You would do well in refrigeration repair.

Jim
 
I have had to bend stainless steel tubing, pack it with sand first and it sure helps from flattening out, figure this woud make copper real easy. lokks great steve,
 
lazersteve what is the maximum temperature potential of your induction heater.
 

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