Materials for "catch dish"

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Stove top safe Pyrex will work well. Some members seem to prefer it over the Corningware pyroceram.

Seems a shame that prices can vary so differently from one place to another but it does. I spoke with a lady a few years ago the exported pyroceram to New Zeland and Australia where the average $10 pot here sold for over $100 each there.
 
Many pyrex baking dishes have a warning printed on them that they can be used in an oven, but should not be used on a stovetop.
This should be highlighted. Really, I've often asked sellers about the Pyrex dishes and received a similar response.
Corning ware pyroceram is the gold standard for catch dishes. Even if it's very difficult to find where you are, it's worth searching for.
However, finding these for a decent price, really is in some places harder than finding scrap or prospecting for gold in a river. These dishes usually come as a set where I live and are about a 100 a piece. And you can buy minimum of 4 or 6. Even the thrift prices are just a foot away from the regular ones.
 
I never referred to these things as catch dishes. Although that is exactly what it is. I've always called them either an OOPS! or an OH S***! because that is what you say when you walk back into the lab and see it full of acid!

And I always use pyrex casserole dishes or pie plates.
 
This is something I found online, I have seen jwellery artisans use such a bowl regularly when working with acids(even heating acids in such bowls) and this is readily available where I live.
The description says some sort of stainless steel coated with porcelain enamel. I have seen this being used regularly.
Seems like a good fit as a catch dish.

Here is a link to the product page.

https://johnsontools.in/big-enamel-bowl

Your inputs would be highly appreciated.
 

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I stand my burners and beakers all within one large PP tray. Pretty much the whole work area is covered. If a beaker breaks then it's all caught. I heat on gas burners direct to the beakers with a mesh gauze between the beaker and burner and find that heat can be instantly increased or decreased as necessary without the requirement to factor in another layer of material which can be problematic in the event of a mistake in reagents that might lead to a boil over.
 
I stand my burners and beakers all within one large PP tray. Pretty much the whole work area is covered. If a beaker breaks then it's all caught. I heat on gas burners direct to the beakers with a mesh gauze between the beaker and burner and find that heat can be instantly increased or decreased as necessary without the requirement to factor in another layer of material which can be problematic in the event of a mistake in reagents that might lead to a boil over.
Sure this also seems like a good option.
 

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