Need some advice for first time AR recovery (or loss)

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Puddin

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
5
First I wanna take a second to say thanks to everyone on here as reading through the forums has helped out a bit already. Long time reader first time poster. Also I have read enough to first ansewer yes I did read Hoke's book and thank goodness too as I learned alot from it. I admit I didn't cling to every word but spent several hours with it.

On to the point.I have A LOT of gold leads, pins, connectors, ect from several years of saving off PC's. All leads of RAM and cards are broken off to only have the PCB with the visible gold on it. (Rest of PCB gets recycled at our electronic scrap dealer) There are also hundreds of CPU's from all eras and manufacturers thrown into the mix. Altogether I have about 20 kilos of gold scrap. (obviously much less in actual gold weight) So after reading through these forums and playing around with different scrap methods such as electroplating to reclaim copper, zinc, tin ect I decided to opt for AR to start on my gold.

I currently have two batches of approx. 500ml each Both batches have about 40 grams of scrap dissolved in them. I did not weight the scrap after the metal was eaten off as I didn't see the point. (please tell me if I am wrong)

The first batch I admit I was a little heavy handed on the nitric acid putting 150ml to about 350ml of hydrochloric acid. As expected a good reaction ensued and soon all metal was dissolved and the reaction stopped. I filtered off the solution (dark green at this point) and proceeded to add enough water to rinse the scrap and filter to top it off at about 500ml of total AR solution. Stannous chloride test shows the presence of gold but took about 45 seconds to do anything at all. Since this is my first time I am unsure as if this is good or bad. Either way at this point I decided to opt for the boil method to get rid of the nitric acid. Not to mention since I was heavy with the nitric I figured it would be the best way to do so. About 4 hours of medium heat and never bringing the solution to a rolling boil eventually yielded about 220ml of liquid. At his point I was thinking that there was no nitric acid left. Due to the lack of testing material I held a piece of gold leaf in the solution with no reaction so I am hoping this means that there is no nitric left. Precipitating the gold out is where I am stuck and I think it is because of what I am using. I bought 500ml of sodioum bisulfate but when it shows up in the mail it says sodium bisulfate monohydrate. I am unsure if the two are truly the same and after reading further and seeing that others use sodium metabisulfite I am unsure if it will even do anything. When I put the sodium bisulfate in nothing happens but that is what I was expecting. A slow process of letting it sit. I waited overnight and nothing but a very light grey dust on the bottom. I then poured it off to find that there is not brown mud :(

I decided to make a second batch and change a few things around this time. Stannous chloride also had about the same result. Unfortunatly this is the where I used the last of it though and can no longer test. I used approx all the same measurements as before but instead of boiling the nitric out i used urea. I added pinch by pinch until there was no fizzing or fuming left. I then added my sodium bisulfate with the exact same results with one small exception I can see really tiny gold flakes on the surface of the liquid against the beaker. There isn't alot but it definetly looks like gold. I can't fool myself though as some leaf or piece may not have dissolved and somehow made it past my paper filter. (a properly folded one too thanks to hokes :)

I am stuck thinking three things. Either I simply haven't broke enough gold down to see any results, I haven't gotten rid of all the nitric acid or I am simply using the wrong precipitant. I was thinking of using some copper wire to cement it out and then us nitric to get rid of the copper but before I did anything else I feel I need some advice or guidance. Please be brutal if you need to as I really want to get this perfected.
 
First of I would suggest reading Hoke. Second you want to use a bisulfite not a bisulfate.
 
The first mistake I see is dissolving all of the metals together. You should try to remove base metals before dissolving the Gold. If you have really read much on the forum here, you should have known that.
 
Reading your post, I think you need to re-read the first 150 pages of hokes book. Several things you might want to research.

1, First you want to separate your material into type, ie, cpus, pins, MLCC's, flat pack etc...
2, You will want to remove all the dirt and grease from your material using NaOH or Incineration. (read up on both methods)
3. Remove as much base metal as possible with AP or HNO3. (Research both Methods)
4, Do not mix different types of material together.
5, There are only a few cases where you will need to boil the solution. (research those cases in hokes book or here on the forum).
6, Learn how to remove HNO3 (nitric) from your solution, The term is denoxing. Never Boil your solution when trying to denox.
7, Read about a watch glass and its use.
8 Research the difference between Recovery & Refinement.

At a glance one would think it is simple to refine gold...material + acid = gold, wrong it does not work that way. I have been a member here for two years and I still learn something new every time I visit this board. Each type of material has a preferred method for processing. Once you get a working knowledge of these you will be on your way to refining your gold in a safe and productive manner.

Hope this will give you a starting point. What I have listed above is just a very small drop in huge bucket of the basic things you should have a complete understanding of.

Ken
 
I did forget to mention that I only did CPU's in one batch and PCB fingers in the other. I am pretty much positive that it is my sodium bisulfate that I tried to use instead of the sodium metabisulfite. As for "Learn how to remove HNO3 (nitric) from your solution, The term is denoxing. Never Boil your solution when trying to denox." Page 26 of Hoke's book tells you how to do just this. The book is where I got the idea for it in the first place as everyone here just tells people to keep reading the book over and over.

As for my liter of solution that most certainly contains more copper chloride than anything else at this point does anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking that I should still just be able to throw some SMB ion to precipitate it out. Anyone have any idea if the sodium bisulfate will do anything adverse??

I was also thinking of combining thee two batches to make about a full liter and just boiling it down to make it a bit easier to work with. I know some of you think it would be a horrible idea but at this point for those first two batches I'll be happy to get an impure button and then purify it later when I'm more experienced.

Just remember I'm looking to learn and have fun with this as well as make a few extra pennies. Messing up is part of the learning process and figuring out how to fix it is the fun and inquisitive part.
 
Another method I read about is cementing it out using copper bus bars. Although I'm not all that hip on losing copper as collateral I am curious to see what it would look like. Do you guys recommend this at all?
 
i would cement values on copper and start over with a cleaner material to work with.SMB will mix copper into your gold anyway. if you understand how to cement metals from solution, you can retrieve the copper used in the process by using steel to cement out the copper after you remove the gold.
 
It is that you did not chose good process to use.

Second thing, and even more important is that you stated that you did two batches of 40 grams of material. That is enough to have some reaction with stannous and if you wonder why it took so long to show - amount is the answer. You will not be able to see recovered gold from 40 grams of material.
 
Puddin said:
Never Boil your solution when trying to denox." Page 26 of Hoke's book tells you how to do just this. The book is where I got the idea for it in the first place as everyone here just tells people to keep reading the book over and over.
Almost forgot, I checked hokes book last night and I think you were mistaken on the page #, denoxing starts on page 44 and 45, unless I missed something, just wanted to clarify.

Thanks
Ken
 
@srlaulis
"How are you a long time reader if you joined two days ago?"
Google searches my friend. This site is referenced often by google and other people learning the process on other forums.

"I bet you did NOT read Hoke's book."
*sigh* proly shouldn't even waste the time to reply to this but Yes I did read it as stated a few times now. If you don't believe me then all is good as you have that right nor will I waste the time to try and convince some random guy thousands of miles away that I read a particular piece of text. Seems like an awful waste of time and money for all this if I wasn't serious about learning. This same goes to vyper, If you would like to actually have a conversation about the subject I'd love to participate but what is the point posting to say I didn't read a book when I'm referring to it. Gets no one anywhere.

@patnor1011
I was thinking this same thing. That is why I'm thinking about combining the two batches and boiling it down a bit to concentrate the gold chloride and get a bit better dropout on it.

@jeneje
You are absolutely correct. Not sure where I got 26 from as it shows page 57 in my adobe reader and page 44 in the actual book.
 
But there will not be drop out. I mean seriously that from 80 grams of feed stock you will have hard time to actually see anything at all.
Stannous detect traces of gold but what you have there is like nothing.
I mean it might be visible and look nice as foils however as powder it will be super fine divided and settling for days.

Lets estimate that 40 grams of fingers will be about 0.08 pound @ 2g/pound you might see 0.1g and with cpu I am bit lost.
I mean whole ceramic cpu might weight over 40g, if that was fiber cpu then 3-4 pieces and if you did cpu pins only then if they were from fiber cpu then result will be similar. So 0.2g and in a liter or even if only in a half a liter of solution is very hard to drop.
You may see bit of powder on bottom after day or two of settling but that will be actually some gold mixed with other metals which will be dragged down when gold will precipitate as you used AR - totally inappropriate method for this kind of feedstock.
Maybe my math is wrong but this is my opinion.
If I will be in your position I would just probably put it in a stock pot and next time tried with bit more material, different process and much much less solution.
 
What method would you suggest for such scrap then? I would rather stay away from leeching it with cyanide if at all possible.
 
It is all here on forum.
Fingers are best done in AP or if you want it faster then straight nitric.
CPU if it is one of higher yield, old ceramic ones can be done in AR but that have some issues and you need to know what you are doing. Fiber CPU AP again. For pins I would suggest cell as chemicals cost here like 10 times more of what most of members pay for them.

Getting rid of base metals first is what you need to do.
 

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