EVO-AU
Well-known member
Any takers on this one ? ( And don't tell me it doesn't work, because I've seen it in action. )
Anybody have any experience on this juicy bone ?
Phill
Anybody have any experience on this juicy bone ?
Phill
-
Please join our new sister site dedicated to discussion of gold, silver, platinum, copper and palladium bar, coin, jewelry collecting/investing/storing/selling/buying. It would be greatly appreciated if you joined and help add a few new topics for new people to engage in.
Bullion.Forum
Non-Chemical non-ferrous magnetism
- Thread starter EVO-AU
- Start date
Help Support Gold Refining Forum:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Is this what you had in mind.
rexresearch.com
MASTER MAGNET
This electromagnet attracts non-ferrous metal objects by AC induction!
The Magnet’s Secret:
Since the electromagnet’s windings are powered by AC, an alternately increasing and decreasing magnetic field is set up in its center core. When this varying field passes through a set of copper washers fastened to the end of the core, a large current is induced in them. The washers, then, act essentially as a transformer secondary.
The induced current sets up a strong, varying magnetic field in the washers. And the direction of this field is such that the washers and the core repel each other. If the washers were not anchored in place, they would spring out of their mounting as soon as the current was turned on.
The point is, though, that the varying field in the washers will induce, in turn, a large current in any metal object (ferrous or not) brought near them. This current, of course, sets up a magnetic field in the object. And the direction of the field will always be such that the part of the object in contact with the outside face of the set of washers will move the opposite magnetic polarity fro that face. Therefore, the object will be attracted.
Building Magnet Cores:
To start, first cut a 3-1/2" section from a 2" diameter mailing tube. Make a frame for the inner core of the magnet as described in Detail "A". In forming the frame the three wooden discs should fit snug inside the tube. The four ¼" diameter wooden dowels will pass through the discs by holes drilled then glued in to place to hold the assembly together. The core material will later fill the ¾" diameter hole drilled into the centers of the discs.
Now slide the frame into the mailing tube spaced ½" from one end and flush on the other end and glue in this position. Three copper washers will fill the ½" space later on (See Detail B Side View).
Set the closed end of the tube down on a table top and proceed to pack the core with lamination approximately ¼" wide and 3-1/2" long. Laminations may be removed from an old transformer or made from 18 to 22 gauge soft iron wire cut squarely on one end 3-1/2" long. The pieces should make a smooth surface when packed together.
Next, slide a 3-1/2" long, 3" diameter mailing tube over the completed assembly centered as near as possible. Fill the space radially around the inner core assembly with laminations like previously used wide enough to fit snug and 3-1/2" long (See Detail B End View)
Winding the Coil:
For this step you need a jig similar to the one in Detail C. This wooden cylinder with two fitted end-pieces is 3-1/2" long and 1/16" larger in diameter than the mailing tube’s diameter. The end pieces are sawed so that slots are formed to allow temporary tie wires (see next paragraph), and a metal crank handle runs through the center of the cylinder.
The jig is now ready. Center 12" pieces of hookup wire in each slot, pressing them flat. The coil will be wound over this and the wires will serve to temporarily hold the coil together when removed from the jig. Next, frill a hole in a block of wood clamped in a vice. This will hold the jig as you crank the other end.
The coil is made up of 600 turns of #14 cotton or enamel-covered magnet wire tapped at the 350th turn. Around 9 pounds will be needed. Insert the rod end of your jig into the block of wood, stick the first 6" if the end of your supply wire through a saw-slot, then start winding the wire in layers onto the cylinder.
When the 350th turn is reached, tap on a 6" length of wire and brig it out through a saw-slot. The point of tapping can be varied as much as 10 turns in either direction so that the tap out is at the end of a layer on the same end a s when we started the coil. Now continue until the 600th turn is completed and bring the end of the wire out the same end through a saw-slot and cut leaving a 6" piece as before.
Final Assembly:
Using the wires previously inserted, tie the windings together. Disassemble the jig and remove the coil. Using ½" wide cotton or linen tape, wrap the coil from the inside to the outside in overlapping layers. Once completed, coat the inside of the coils and the outside of the 3" mailing tube assembly with glue. Make sure the leads and the space for the copper washers are on opposite ends, insert the cores into the coil, and allow the glue to dry.
During the drying time make a ½" thick wooden ring with the inside diameter [?] wide and the outside diameter flush with the outside of the coil. This is a spacer between the coil and the top (See Detail B Side View). Cut grooves in the spacer to allow the leads to pass through the center and glue onto the coil.
Now with the same outside diameter as the spacer, cut a ½" wooden top. Mount a lifting ring in the center, made from brass or copper. Drill another hole for a 6’ length of #14 stranded, 3-wire conductor for the power cable. Push one end through the hole and connect the coil leads to the cable leads.
At the free end of the power cord mark each of the leads as connected with "start of winding", "tap", "end of winding". This is important for later hook up. Next glue the cable in its hole so connections cannot be pulled apart by flexing. The wooden top can be secured to the spacer ring by brass wood screws. Next coat the whole magnet with black insulating varnish or enamel to help secure the cotton or linen coil wrappings and protect it from moisture.
The last part of construction is the forming and installation of copper washers in the space between the ends of the inner and outer magnet cores. Specifications of the washers are in Detail D.
These copper washers are secured with flathead brass wood screws driven into the inner core. Counter sink the screws into the outside washer, and fill any excess space between the washers and the inner coil with slices of wood or cardboard so the last washer is flush with the inner and outer cores.
Do not substitute any other metal in place of the copper washers. Heavy current induced by the washers require that they be made of extremely low resistance metal.
Electrical Hookup:
If the AC line is connected between terminals 1 and 2 of the magnet coil (See Schematic A), the current consumed will be around 20 amperes --- quite excessive for use around the house. Connecting terminals 1 and 3 (See Schematic B) results in a current flowing around 4.25 amperes, and the strength of the magnet is reduced proportionately. In both cases the current performs little useful work; this inductive circuit lags about 90* behind the voltage.
This lag can be partially offset by adding an 80-uf, phase-shifting capacitance as shown in the modified parallel-resonant circuit of Schematic C. The current drawn from the line is about 4 amperes, while the currents flowing between terminals 1 and 2 and terminals 3 and 4, respectively, are 18.5 amperes and 9 amperes. This hookup results in a more powerful magnet than the hookups in Schematics A or B.
The maximum magnetic pull is obtained with the series-resonant circuit illustrated in Schematic D. In this hookup, 17 amperes flow through the whole coil, allowing the coil to pick up and hold 6 or more half-dollar coins or an equal weight f other non-ferrous metal.
The 80-uf capacitance specified in Schematics C and D is built up by paralleling several smaller capacitors. These must be of the non-electrolytic type with ratings of at least 250 volts if connected as in Schematic C, or 600 volts if connected as in Schematic D. Units totaling less than 80-uf could be used, providing they have the proper voltage ratings, but the current flowing through the magnet winding would be reduced.
High voltage appears across the capacitors, and since they are apt to retain their charge after being disconnected from the line, this should be enclosed in a metal box. As another precaution, the capacitors should always be discharged with a tool having an insulated handle before any work is done on the circuit.
Because of the peculiarities of the magnetic field around the copper washers, the magnet will not attract pieces of non-ferrous metal wider than their outside diameter or nattower than their inside diameter.
A final word of caution: the washers carry considerable current through them and get quite hot. Connect the magnets only when necessary.
Materials:
1 Cardboard mailing tube, 3-1/2" long, approx. 2" diameter
1 Cardboard mailing tube, 3-1/2" long, approx. 3" diam.
4 Wooden dowels, 3-1/2" long, ¼" diam.
1 Roll ½" wide cotton or linen tape
1 Heavy brass or copper hook (for lifting ring)
1 Line plug
1 80 uf, 250 or 600 volt capacitor bank
1 Wood or metal enclosure for above
1 6’ length of #14 stranded 3-wire cable (for power cord)
1 6’ length of #14 stranded 2-wire cable (for line cord)
9 pounds of #14 cotton or enamel covered magnet wire
Miscellaneous:
½" wood stock for center core frame, magnet top and spacer ring
1/16" sheet copper for washers
Old transformer lamination or 18 to 22 gauge soft iron wire for cores
Parts for winding jig
Flat head brass wood screws
Cement
Insulating varnish or enamel
Schematics A, B, C, D:
Terminal 1 = Start of Winding
Terminal 2 = Tap
Terminal 3 = End of winding
Detail A:
Detail B:
Detail C:
Detail D:
Your Support Maintains this Service. Please Invest in the mind-boggling Rex Research Website CD -- Always The Best Investment ... Everything on this Website & More ( the Bonus Files CD ) -- Only $13, Postpaid Anywhere ! Secure Transaction via PayPal: All Major Credit Cards Accepted:
No Credit ? Don't like PayPal ? Send a Check/Money Order to:
Rex Research, PO Box 19250, Jean, NV 89019 USA
rexresearch.com
rexresearch.com
MASTER MAGNET
This electromagnet attracts non-ferrous metal objects by AC induction!
The Magnet’s Secret:
Since the electromagnet’s windings are powered by AC, an alternately increasing and decreasing magnetic field is set up in its center core. When this varying field passes through a set of copper washers fastened to the end of the core, a large current is induced in them. The washers, then, act essentially as a transformer secondary.
The induced current sets up a strong, varying magnetic field in the washers. And the direction of this field is such that the washers and the core repel each other. If the washers were not anchored in place, they would spring out of their mounting as soon as the current was turned on.
The point is, though, that the varying field in the washers will induce, in turn, a large current in any metal object (ferrous or not) brought near them. This current, of course, sets up a magnetic field in the object. And the direction of the field will always be such that the part of the object in contact with the outside face of the set of washers will move the opposite magnetic polarity fro that face. Therefore, the object will be attracted.
Building Magnet Cores:
To start, first cut a 3-1/2" section from a 2" diameter mailing tube. Make a frame for the inner core of the magnet as described in Detail "A". In forming the frame the three wooden discs should fit snug inside the tube. The four ¼" diameter wooden dowels will pass through the discs by holes drilled then glued in to place to hold the assembly together. The core material will later fill the ¾" diameter hole drilled into the centers of the discs.
Now slide the frame into the mailing tube spaced ½" from one end and flush on the other end and glue in this position. Three copper washers will fill the ½" space later on (See Detail B Side View).
Set the closed end of the tube down on a table top and proceed to pack the core with lamination approximately ¼" wide and 3-1/2" long. Laminations may be removed from an old transformer or made from 18 to 22 gauge soft iron wire cut squarely on one end 3-1/2" long. The pieces should make a smooth surface when packed together.
Next, slide a 3-1/2" long, 3" diameter mailing tube over the completed assembly centered as near as possible. Fill the space radially around the inner core assembly with laminations like previously used wide enough to fit snug and 3-1/2" long (See Detail B End View)
Winding the Coil:
For this step you need a jig similar to the one in Detail C. This wooden cylinder with two fitted end-pieces is 3-1/2" long and 1/16" larger in diameter than the mailing tube’s diameter. The end pieces are sawed so that slots are formed to allow temporary tie wires (see next paragraph), and a metal crank handle runs through the center of the cylinder.
The jig is now ready. Center 12" pieces of hookup wire in each slot, pressing them flat. The coil will be wound over this and the wires will serve to temporarily hold the coil together when removed from the jig. Next, frill a hole in a block of wood clamped in a vice. This will hold the jig as you crank the other end.
The coil is made up of 600 turns of #14 cotton or enamel-covered magnet wire tapped at the 350th turn. Around 9 pounds will be needed. Insert the rod end of your jig into the block of wood, stick the first 6" if the end of your supply wire through a saw-slot, then start winding the wire in layers onto the cylinder.
When the 350th turn is reached, tap on a 6" length of wire and brig it out through a saw-slot. The point of tapping can be varied as much as 10 turns in either direction so that the tap out is at the end of a layer on the same end a s when we started the coil. Now continue until the 600th turn is completed and bring the end of the wire out the same end through a saw-slot and cut leaving a 6" piece as before.
Final Assembly:
Using the wires previously inserted, tie the windings together. Disassemble the jig and remove the coil. Using ½" wide cotton or linen tape, wrap the coil from the inside to the outside in overlapping layers. Once completed, coat the inside of the coils and the outside of the 3" mailing tube assembly with glue. Make sure the leads and the space for the copper washers are on opposite ends, insert the cores into the coil, and allow the glue to dry.
During the drying time make a ½" thick wooden ring with the inside diameter [?] wide and the outside diameter flush with the outside of the coil. This is a spacer between the coil and the top (See Detail B Side View). Cut grooves in the spacer to allow the leads to pass through the center and glue onto the coil.
Now with the same outside diameter as the spacer, cut a ½" wooden top. Mount a lifting ring in the center, made from brass or copper. Drill another hole for a 6’ length of #14 stranded, 3-wire conductor for the power cable. Push one end through the hole and connect the coil leads to the cable leads.
At the free end of the power cord mark each of the leads as connected with "start of winding", "tap", "end of winding". This is important for later hook up. Next glue the cable in its hole so connections cannot be pulled apart by flexing. The wooden top can be secured to the spacer ring by brass wood screws. Next coat the whole magnet with black insulating varnish or enamel to help secure the cotton or linen coil wrappings and protect it from moisture.
The last part of construction is the forming and installation of copper washers in the space between the ends of the inner and outer magnet cores. Specifications of the washers are in Detail D.
These copper washers are secured with flathead brass wood screws driven into the inner core. Counter sink the screws into the outside washer, and fill any excess space between the washers and the inner coil with slices of wood or cardboard so the last washer is flush with the inner and outer cores.
Do not substitute any other metal in place of the copper washers. Heavy current induced by the washers require that they be made of extremely low resistance metal.
Electrical Hookup:
If the AC line is connected between terminals 1 and 2 of the magnet coil (See Schematic A), the current consumed will be around 20 amperes --- quite excessive for use around the house. Connecting terminals 1 and 3 (See Schematic B) results in a current flowing around 4.25 amperes, and the strength of the magnet is reduced proportionately. In both cases the current performs little useful work; this inductive circuit lags about 90* behind the voltage.
This lag can be partially offset by adding an 80-uf, phase-shifting capacitance as shown in the modified parallel-resonant circuit of Schematic C. The current drawn from the line is about 4 amperes, while the currents flowing between terminals 1 and 2 and terminals 3 and 4, respectively, are 18.5 amperes and 9 amperes. This hookup results in a more powerful magnet than the hookups in Schematics A or B.
The maximum magnetic pull is obtained with the series-resonant circuit illustrated in Schematic D. In this hookup, 17 amperes flow through the whole coil, allowing the coil to pick up and hold 6 or more half-dollar coins or an equal weight f other non-ferrous metal.
The 80-uf capacitance specified in Schematics C and D is built up by paralleling several smaller capacitors. These must be of the non-electrolytic type with ratings of at least 250 volts if connected as in Schematic C, or 600 volts if connected as in Schematic D. Units totaling less than 80-uf could be used, providing they have the proper voltage ratings, but the current flowing through the magnet winding would be reduced.
High voltage appears across the capacitors, and since they are apt to retain their charge after being disconnected from the line, this should be enclosed in a metal box. As another precaution, the capacitors should always be discharged with a tool having an insulated handle before any work is done on the circuit.
Because of the peculiarities of the magnetic field around the copper washers, the magnet will not attract pieces of non-ferrous metal wider than their outside diameter or nattower than their inside diameter.
A final word of caution: the washers carry considerable current through them and get quite hot. Connect the magnets only when necessary.
Materials:
1 Cardboard mailing tube, 3-1/2" long, approx. 2" diameter
1 Cardboard mailing tube, 3-1/2" long, approx. 3" diam.
4 Wooden dowels, 3-1/2" long, ¼" diam.
1 Roll ½" wide cotton or linen tape
1 Heavy brass or copper hook (for lifting ring)
1 Line plug
1 80 uf, 250 or 600 volt capacitor bank
1 Wood or metal enclosure for above
1 6’ length of #14 stranded 3-wire cable (for power cord)
1 6’ length of #14 stranded 2-wire cable (for line cord)
9 pounds of #14 cotton or enamel covered magnet wire
Miscellaneous:
½" wood stock for center core frame, magnet top and spacer ring
1/16" sheet copper for washers
Old transformer lamination or 18 to 22 gauge soft iron wire for cores
Parts for winding jig
Flat head brass wood screws
Cement
Insulating varnish or enamel
Schematics A, B, C, D:
Terminal 1 = Start of Winding
Terminal 2 = Tap
Terminal 3 = End of winding
Detail A:
Detail B:
Detail C:
Detail D:
Your Support Maintains this Service. Please Invest in the mind-boggling Rex Research Website CD -- Always The Best Investment ... Everything on this Website & More ( the Bonus Files CD ) -- Only $13, Postpaid Anywhere ! Secure Transaction via PayPal: All Major Credit Cards Accepted:
No Credit ? Don't like PayPal ? Send a Check/Money Order to:
Rex Research, PO Box 19250, Jean, NV 89019 USA
rexresearch.com
EVO-AU
Well-known member
Gustavus: All of your material is right on the head, except that I got mine from an article in a 1960's Popular Mecahnics. I just finished building mine and 30 amps is where I am at. Interesting little project.
By the way, you state in your research that 20 amp circuitry is hot for a residence. Actually, except for some lighting runs, clothes dryer, range and hot water 20-amp circuitry is the norm. Unless, like some backyard contractors Al wire is used, than the wire must be one size larger to accommadate the same amperage.
Have you built one yet ? ( By the way, is Birnie in Scotland ? )
Evo
Almost forgot - this little beauty was built almost 100 years ago in a physics lab.
By the way, you state in your research that 20 amp circuitry is hot for a residence. Actually, except for some lighting runs, clothes dryer, range and hot water 20-amp circuitry is the norm. Unless, like some backyard contractors Al wire is used, than the wire must be one size larger to accommadate the same amperage.
Have you built one yet ? ( By the way, is Birnie in Scotland ? )
Evo
Almost forgot - this little beauty was built almost 100 years ago in a physics lab.
EVO-AU
Well-known member
Gustavus: Are you going to build one of these and experiment ?
Anybody else got anything to add ? Sure would like some other thoughts on this metter .
EVO
Anybody else got anything to add ? Sure would like some other thoughts on this metter .
EVO
Hi Phill, ever see were this shaker tables uses magnets in a different way?
The RP-4 uses a unique reverse polarity of rare earth magnets which will cause the magnetite to rise and be washed off into the tails leaving just the gold traveling to the catch.
Like to know how this works........
Have you tried out the magnet you built?
Randy
The RP-4 uses a unique reverse polarity of rare earth magnets which will cause the magnetite to rise and be washed off into the tails leaving just the gold traveling to the catch.
Like to know how this works........
Have you tried out the magnet you built?
Randy
A
Anonymous
Guest
No I'm not building one, just thought it an interesting question and googled it. The credits belong to someone else - not I.EVO-AU said:
In answer to your question I would have answered platinum as being slightly magnetic as are certain types of stainless steel.
EVO-AU
Well-known member
Randy: Well, so far I have burned out two rheostats andf almost my fingers. Afterall these years around electricity, I still manage to get careless. Or is that word spelled cocky ? I'm thinking of bulding a water rheostat, but I haven't the foggiest where to start. Boy, this net is great - I just found s bunch of articles on how to build one ...
Gustavus : I was prowling around a scrap metal place awhile back, ( looking for stainless pieces for my cell ) and found some pieces of stainless non-magnetic. I was surprised.
I know nothing about Pl - except that is is richer than gold. You will have to ask Platdigger about that, as he is the expert on Pl.
Phill
Gustavus : I was prowling around a scrap metal place awhile back, ( looking for stainless pieces for my cell ) and found some pieces of stainless non-magnetic. I was surprised.
I know nothing about Pl - except that is is richer than gold. You will have to ask Platdigger about that, as he is the expert on Pl.
Phill
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8,360
You shouldn't be. All of the 300 series of stainless is non-magnetic, and that's the stuff you see commonly. Steam table pots are an example, as would be stainless hoods and counters found in industry.EVO-AU said:
The exception to 300 being non-magnetic is if it is work hardened, at which time it is mildly magnetic.
Harold
A
Anonymous
Guest
I hope you purchased the non magnetic stainless for your cell, would have been my choice.EVO-AU said:
EVO-AU
Well-known member
Harold/Gustavus:
That was going to be my next question. Non or mag ? I haven't purchased yet; I have this bad habit of looking at everything and wondering - now - what can I use this for ? Or hey, I think this is something that I need for a project that is half there, but ran short of available whatever it was that I needed at the time. Boy, do I like to prowl junkyards. No telling what is under the next piece of whatever ?
Thanks, guys. Phill
Gus - I read about that somewhere and it does make sense. Thanks
That was going to be my next question. Non or mag ? I haven't purchased yet; I have this bad habit of looking at everything and wondering - now - what can I use this for ? Or hey, I think this is something that I need for a project that is half there, but ran short of available whatever it was that I needed at the time. Boy, do I like to prowl junkyards. No telling what is under the next piece of whatever ?
Thanks, guys. Phill
Gus - I read about that somewhere and it does make sense. Thanks
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8,360
Make your choice non-magnetic, and if you get lucky and can identify the material, your best choice is 316 L. It's unlikely you'll know what it is, however. 304 or 316 are commonly used for making containers for transporting nitric acid.
Harold
Harold
All the 316 I ran into......at least that I believed to be 316, was slightly magnetic.
It is one way I seperated stainless scrap. Of course there is the grinder test, and to be real sure the chemical test for molly.
Randy
It is one way I seperated stainless scrap. Of course there is the grinder test, and to be real sure the chemical test for molly.
Randy
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8,360
I trust you find it only very slightly magnetic? If so, and it becomes non-magnetic upon being heated to redness. it's a sign of being rolled, but not annealed (work hardened). Otherwise it's a good sign it's not stainless. That's true of all of the 300 series materials.
The 300 series of stainless does not have the ability to be heat treated for hardness----it hardens by work hardening alone.
Harold
The 300 series of stainless does not have the ability to be heat treated for hardness----it hardens by work hardening alone.
Harold
Off topic a bit but how does carbon content enter into this with 300 series stainless or is there some other reason it will not heat treat. I have done little work in stainless at the forge but having said that I think you see why I’m asking.
I have sold quite a lot of stainless Harold. And as I recall all of what tested out at the scrapyard or was marked 316, was slightly magnetic. 304 generally is not.
If you have something that is stronly magnetic but looks like stainless it probably is one of the 400 series of stainless. Some of this has chrome but no nickel.
Or if you are fortunate, it could be monel, Inconel or one of the other high nickel, high temp varieties.
I have encountered these too, the payout can be nice on these if nickel happens to be high at the time.
Randy
If you have something that is stronly magnetic but looks like stainless it probably is one of the 400 series of stainless. Some of this has chrome but no nickel.
Or if you are fortunate, it could be monel, Inconel or one of the other high nickel, high temp varieties.
I have encountered these too, the payout can be nice on these if nickel happens to be high at the time.
Randy
Plat,
I had a conversation with a gentleman a few weeks ago that used to work in a steel mill and he mentioned that monel or inconel contained platinum group metals (i don't remember which) to give it the high temp resistance. I am not presenting this as fact but only something that makes limited sense in that some platinum group metals would increase temperature resistance like in jet engine parts. But I don’t know the guy and for all I know he is a crazy as a loon.
I had a conversation with a gentleman a few weeks ago that used to work in a steel mill and he mentioned that monel or inconel contained platinum group metals (i don't remember which) to give it the high temp resistance. I am not presenting this as fact but only something that makes limited sense in that some platinum group metals would increase temperature resistance like in jet engine parts. But I don’t know the guy and for all I know he is a crazy as a loon.
I know there are some inconels that contain either niobium or tantalum,
but I don't know of any that contain any of the pgms Oz
Not saying there are not any, I just don't know of them if there are.
Yea, jet engine parts.......but I am not sure what those alloys are called.
Chris should know.
Randy
but I don't know of any that contain any of the pgms Oz
Not saying there are not any, I just don't know of them if there are.
Yea, jet engine parts.......but I am not sure what those alloys are called.
Chris should know.
Randy
qst42know
Well-known member
You can wiki the Monel and Inconel.
There are no PMs in the alloys themselves but fabrication of components may include brazing alloys that do.
Here is a chart of the alloys.
http://www.painc.com/chemical_composition.htm
There are no PMs in the alloys themselves but fabrication of components may include brazing alloys that do.
Here is a chart of the alloys.
http://www.painc.com/chemical_composition.htm
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 8,360
The carbon content in all 300 series stainless is well below limits that would permit heat treat by the carbon cycle. In a worst case scenario, as an example, 316 would contains less than half the amount of carbon that is found in 1018 steel, which is a low carbon steel and can not be heat treated by common heat treat methods due to the minimal carbon content.Oz said:
316L has an even lower carbon content, which is intended to reduce harmful precipitations when the material is taken through 800°-1,500°, such as when it is welded. The precipitation in the heat effected zone is the source of intergranular corrosion.
Harold
