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Lost_Adams

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
10
Location
South Central WA
For those who want to expand thier horizons and apply Other Technology to BURNING STUFF UP!!!

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oliverburner1.html

I have found that Garden Store Pearlite, Western Bentonite, and Stove Pipe Patch and Cement make a casting/melting furnace that is durabil and Lite weight. Just follow instructions on Olivers website.

Sincerely
Bill Adams
 
Hi Bill Adams
I am going to buy a burner like that one
I am also going to make a refractory from a pre-mixed material
I did some research into that Ill try to post some of the companies that sell ready to mix refractories.

About the instruction you are talking about where are they
 
Golddie:

Take a look here:
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/bucketfurnace2.html

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/refractories.html

This should give you some ideas and save you some money.

dickb
 
golddie said:
Hi Bill Adams
I am also going to make a refractory from a pre-mixed material
I did some research into that Ill try to post some of the companies that sell ready to mix refractories.


I picked up my MORCOCAST 3000HS (3000' F) refractory near St Louis at Missouri Refractories Company. I think I paid $35 per 55lb bag (I bought 12 bags for my large homemade crucible furnace), easy to cast and very nice guys to deal with..

Heres a web link -> http://www.refractories.net/conventional_castables.htm
 
AlanInMo said:
I picked up my MORCOCAST 3000HS (3000' F) refractory near St Louis at Missouri Refractories Company. I think I paid $35 per 55lb bag (I bought 12 bags for my large homemade crucible furnace),
Smart move, AlanInMo! Commercial refractory is a wise choice if you expect a furnace to stand up to the rigors of use with flux.

I assume you paid attention to shelf life? I don't know that it's true of all refractories, but those with which I have been familiar have a shelf life, which effects the ability of the material to set hard. Best policy is to buy only that which will be used immediately.

Harold
 
Guys, AFTER you have built your furnace and used it till it burns out you'll not appreciate the COST/Durability factor. Our Ancesters 5000+- years ago used what they had avaiavle in there natural envirronmnet to build their Smelting Furnaces for Copper and Then Iron. The heat to smelt copper is comprable with AU if you use a Flux, 20 Mule Team Borax washing powder. In fact AU can be melted with a hand held propane torch, in a charcoal briquit with a 3/4" hole drilled in it. There again you need to use sodium bicarbonate or borax to lower the melting point and help flux off the base metal inpurities. I used this method in 1980 while wintering out in a 7'x7'x7' cabin on the Middle Fork of the Yuba River panning and slucing Gold. I received 85% of spot while every one else was only getting 75%, because their gold was dirty, ie. mercury/black sands/???. I just thought some of you Part Timers might be able to save BooCoo Bucks with that info.

http://www.geus.dk/program-areas/common/small_scale_mining-uk.htm
http://www.geus.dk/program-areas/common/int_borax_fact_sheet_07-uk.htm
http://www.geus.dk/program-areas/common/int_ssm_fact_sheet_07.jpg
Sincerley
Bill Adams
 
Hello Bill Adams:

Thanks a lot for posting that information. I had seen it some time ago and neglected to save it. It has a lot of good information included in it for the small time prospector. I also have seen the drawing of the torch and was thinking of it the other day when we were discussing hydrogen torches. In a lot ways its the same as a Hoke torch that people are trying to to find. I'm not really impressed by the safety features, but a simple Mapp gas torch will melt gold, if you prevent heat loss.

Thanks again for reminding us that we don't need 2000 square foot homes to survive in. Most people can't even imagine that is would be possible to live with out electricity, running water and a Super Walmart down the street.

If the rich could find a way to control and sell us the air we breath, the government will find a way to tax us for using it.

Hope you find lots of color in your pan!!!

dickb
 
What happens when you blow on a glowing piece of charcoal? It turns yellow then White Hot with enough air. The principle is the same as a cutting torch. You get the metal molten and then blow away the excess(your cut) with the Oxy. The reason you use the Oxy is because it is convient and handy, NOT because it is nessacary to cut with. Plain ol Air you breath is enough to keep the reaction happening. You can cut Concrete with an Air Lance. The lance is a peice of 1/2" Black Iron pipe Hooked to an Oxy bottle with a shut off valve. You use a blow torch or some other heat source to get the end of the pipe Red Hot and then you turn on the Oxy and apply to the concrete till you get a hole blown through and then just cut out your hole/Doorway/???. The above procedures can be done with Compressed air also.

The charcoal is used in a Cupola Furnace to Melt/Smelt Iron you apply air from a hair dryer or old vacumn cleaner for the blower and it turns the charcoal White Hot or apx 3000* plus. When properly mixed with limestone flux to float off the slag/impuritys it combines with CO-2 and burns the CO and you end up with a White/Cast Iron very high in Carbon.
 
Lost_Adams said:
There again you need to use sodium bicarbonate or borax to lower the melting point
Flux of any description does NOT lower the melting point. It has nothing to do with melting metals aside from absorbing or reducing oxides, collecting contaminants, and allowing the melted metal to flow better, acting, more or less, as a lubricant.

I would agree that using flux to melt placer gold would be to advantage, if for no other reason, to eliminate contaminants that would, otherwise, be difficult to eliminate. Melting such material without a flux would likely lead to considerable loss of values.

Don't give these guys the idea that if they flux enough, they can melt their gold with a match. Ain't gonna happen.

For the record, the gold you see, below, was melted without flux, aside from a thin film of borax in the melting dish. I melted thousands of ounces that way.

Harold
 
What happens when you blow on a glowing piece of charcoal? It turns yellow then White Hot with enough air. The principle is the same as a cutting torch. You get the metal molten and then blow away the excess(your cut) with the Oxy. The reason you use the Oxy is because it is convient and handy, NOT because it is nessacary to cut with.

The charcoal is oxidizing to carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide, scavenging oxygen from the heat zone and releasing additional heat. Carbon monoxide is hungry for another oxygen and carbon dioxide is a good shield gas.

A cutting torch only works because oxidizing generates heat and iron and steel readily oxidize at temperature. Oxygen is necessary for efficient cutting. Compressed air may contain enough oxygen (20%) to sort of work but the 80% other gasses will only hinder the process robbing heat from the cut.

Because aluminum and stainless don't readily oxidize is the reason a cutting torch doesn't work well on these metals. Yes, I know you can melt/drip your way through these materials but at a greater cost in fuel, and wont work at all on thick sections.

I have not worked with an oxygen lance for cutting concrete but suspect the oxidizing iron pipe provides a super heated plasma (gasses at extreme temperature) that actually does the work of cutting through concrete.
 
You can experiment on a small scale with an alcohol lamp and a bit of fine tubing for a blowpipe. Many a prospector had one in his kit to do bead tests on a block of charcoal. It's amazing how hot that little flame can get.
 
Hi All Now your giving up that hard earned experience in very detailed posts. Just took a little probing to get it done.

Harold, have you used a blowpipe to do a charcoal assay test on some ground up ore? If you have then your statement about the flux and match needs to be reworded and not just start to attack me for trying to present alternate ways or methods in response to the questions some forum members have asked about. I only am guiding and sterring them to places to expand their knowledge what they do with that is up to them. I gave the original website as an insperation and example to less Well Healed Newbe's that they didn't need to spend BooCoo Bucks on getting a job done. If I offended your age and experience I am sorry and will just go back to Lurking instead of trying to share my experience. Maybe I don't have the SheepSkins and get mixed up in the way I understand things but I still get the job done with what I have at hand. By the way I have over 50 years experience as a Structional IronWorker, Heavy Construction Carpenter, and Construction MillWright and 30 as a Gold Miner/ Prospector.
Have fun guys I have to go to Arizona for the winter to Beep for Nug's.
Sincerely
Bill Adams
 
Sorry to butt in. But in your charcoal assaying torching process, the flux lowers the melting point of the oxides, silicates and other stuff in "ore" samples, it does not however lower the melting point of metal itself and it may help you melt metal by making heat transfer more efficient.

Jim
 
Lost_Adams said:
Harold, have you used a blowpipe to do a charcoal assay test on some ground up ore? If you have then your statement about the flux and match needs to be reworded and not just start to attack me for trying to present alternate ways or methods in response to the questions some forum members have asked about.
For starters, no one attacked you. That is not permitted on this forum, and is grounds for dismissal.

What I clearly stated is that flux does not lower the melting point of metals, which is what you implied.

On a second reading of your post, I realize what you're implying, but even that tends to be somewhat misleading. Soda ash dissolves silica, it does not lower its melting point. However, once combined, the net result is a lower melting point.

My purpose in commenting was to insure that readers don't get the mistaken notion that all they need do is use enough flux and their melting problems will go away. That is simply not the case.

I only am guiding and sterring them to places to expand their knowledge what they do with that is up to them.
One does not expand knowledge in others by providing either misinformation, or misleading information. I respect your attempt, but if you intend to be helpful, it's best to have your information in order. I spend a great deal of my time trying to undo damage caused by well meaning, but poorly informed people. That seems to be the norm in refining.

If I offended your age and experience I am sorry and will just go back to Lurking instead of trying to share my experience.
I am not the offended party, nor have I requested that you lurk. May I suggest that you grow somewhat thicker skin and accept the fact that some of the things you may say aren't necessarily true? It takes a far bigger man to admit to not knowing something than to pretend to be the injured party because someone makes a correction.

Maybe I don't have the SheepSkins and get mixed up in the way I understand things but I still get the job done with what I have at hand.
As did I, and I did so without formal education. One need not be college educated to follow prescribed processes. I was good at follow directions. I also kept an open mind and tried to learn what I could to improve my processing and my quality.

By the way I have over 50 years experience as a Structional IronWorker, Heavy Construction Carpenter, and Construction MillWright and 30 as a Gold Miner/ Prospector.
That's an admirable record. You can be justly proud of your accomplishments, but, without making any accusations, my years in refining taught me to be very wary of prospectors, most of whom have little knowledge about refining and can't sort reality from fantasy. They are often driven by the gold bug and have the innate ability to ignore good and factual information, generally because it doesn't agree with what they want to believe.
Have fun guys I have to go to Arizona for the winter to Beep for Nug's.
I wish you the best of luck! Be certain to share the spoils with us through some pictures.

Harold
 
Lost_Adams said:
The principle is the same as a cutting torch. You get the metal molten and then blow away the excess(your cut) with the Oxy. The reason you use the Oxy is because it is convient and handy, NOT because it is nessacary to cut with. Plain ol Air you breath is enough to keep the reaction happening.
That isn't true. One need not get the metal molten, just preheated, at which time, the introduction of pure oxygen causes the heated iron (steel) to ignite and burn. It is not "blown away" by the oxygen, although the resulting slag is, and the cut can not be sustained with air, which has too much nitrogen and other inert gasses included to support combustion. It cools the metal instead, even if one may get a short cutting action by over heating the metal initially.

You may have noticed, by now, there are some very intelligent people on this forum that will pick to death any misstatements you care to offer. It's good for you, and it's good for other readers, helping to prevent false notions from being propagated. We tend to see ourselves as scientists, shying away from witchcraft.

Harold
 
The :twisted: runs from the GREAT Witch Hunter in Fear. Sorry I'm not as consise and precise a you guys. BUTT you Did Attack me an try to belittle me so you can maintain your revered status. If you had changed your Tone then it would have been much easier to swallow.
Isn't it amazing how easy it is to get so Totally off track and reduce this forum to a pissing match on who is Write and Who is rong. Check how many people belong to this forum and then see WHO are the ones who Post the most. Then wonder why there isn't more people posting than just a few. It's because when someone trys to share where you can find some info you have to be SOO Politically and Scintificly Correct or all the HENs start Pic, Pic, Pecking you apart. And yes folks the Spelling is Intentional not mispelled.
Audios Amigos
BVA
 
Lost_Adams said:
The :twisted: runs from the GREAT Witch Hunter in Fear. Sorry I'm not as consise and precise a you guys. BUTT you Did Attack me an try to belittle me so you can maintain your revered status. If you had changed your Tone then it would have been much easier to swallow.
Isn't it amazing how easy it is to get so Totally off track and reduce this forum to a pissing match on who is Write and Who is rong. Check how many people belong to this forum and then see WHO are the ones who Post the most. Then wonder why there isn't more people posting than just a few. It's because when someone trys to share where you can find some info you have to be SOO Politically and Scintificly Correct or all the HENs start Pic, Pic, Pecking you apart. And yes folks the Spelling is Intentional not mispelled.
Audios Amigos
BVA
 
Harold, since we are going to pick apart every little detail here...
In all my years of using a cutting torch, I have never gotten the cut to start until the metal was molten.
True, it is only a shallow skin layer of molten metal when you hit the oxygen lever, but, molten all the same.
Try hitting the oxygen lever before that point, and you get nothing.
 

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