Process for Mil-Spec Terminals

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Acres

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2014
Messages
8
Forum members,

First and foremost, I would like to thank all of you for the outstanding resources available on these boards. I've learned a great deal.

I don’t want to waste anyone’s time, but this requires a tad of background:
I am reticent to ask questions, as I know the vast majority of the answers have already been rendered in one thread or another. However, I find myself in a predicament. I have been accepted to an amazing college, and will be attending this fall. Though they have offered me a very generous aid package, there is still a shortfall that I need to make up and I plan to do so by recovering the gold from a stockpile of electroplated mil spec aircraft terminals - I have a LOT of these things. I’ve spent as much time as is possible doing my research here but now due to an overload of schoolwork, I am in a time crunch. Because of this, I would appreciate it if you would be willing to critique the process that I have come up with and let me know if I have overlooked anything.

Here are the terminals.

Pins.jpg

I plan on reverse plating the electrical ends using the sulfuric acid cell pictured below (This will actually be a lot bigger, I have a much bigger pyrex dish coming in the mail).

Cell.jpg

I am using liquid fire drain cleaner. I will keep the amps around 6/gallon acid so that the bath stays < 110 degrees F (I will monitor with a glass thermometer). After the particulate has settled I will siphon off the sulfuric, dilute (slowly) and filter.

Next I will follow Harold’s advice. I have access to a large ceramic kiln capable of achieving temps up to around 3000 degrees F pictured below.

Kiln.jpg

I will use the kiln to incinerate the slimes (I figured I would take the kiln to about 100 degrees below the melting point of Au, so 1800 F). Next I plan to subject the slimes to dilute nitric acid (here is a question mark: not sure how dilute the nitric should be? Might I just use sulphuric instead as per Hoke?). I will then rinse, and dissolve in AR or poor man’s AR and drop with SMB.

Lastly, casting. What are your thoughts/experiences using a kiln for this last step?

Thank you for your time, and I apologize for the long post. I will, of course, post updates and pictures as this process moves forward.
 
Hi guys, did my first run through the cell the other day and I will post pictures, everything went fine. It is taking a long time for the powder to settle, and I'm thinking of reducing the acid's viscosity a bit. Maybe bringing it from 97% down to 91% or so with some distilled water. Here's the catch: I have found posts where Harold and GSP say that 91% should be fine and won't attack the copper mesh, but I have found other posts where Lazersteve makes the opposite claim. Two cents on this?
 
Sulfuric will self-dilute every time you use the cell by absorbing moisture from the air. I believe I've read that 95% is about the sweet spot. 91% will probably still be OK but you may be approaching the limit.

Patience is a necessity in this endeavor. Give it time and it will settle.

Dave
 
A separatory funnel is also a great tool to get the settled gold out of the acid. ...at least I've been told. I haven't had the chance to test the one I bought yet.

Göran
 
I don't really recommend new members do this and only after careful study of the dangers should even be attempted.

You can dilute the acid+gold dust mixture with water and the gold will settle in minutes rather than days. To re-use the acid, it needs to be evaporated to remove the excess water. By heating the now barren sulfuric acid, two great things will happen. You get nice clear concentrated sulfuric to work with and any contamination (copper,tin) will precipitate out as a sulfide (I believe but could be a sulfate). After evaporating, which can be done slowly at around 100°F lowering the danger of hot sulfuric, the acid will be a nice honey colored, thick liquid. This will work with the red colored drain opener too. Too, the time it takes for the gold powder to settle in the diluted sulfuric acid, the acid has a chance to attack any copper that may be in the powders. The acid will get greener as the powder settles.
 
Geo said:
I don't really recommend new members do this and only after careful study of the dangers should even be attempted.

You can dilute the acid+gold dust mixture with water and the gold will settle in minutes rather than days. To re-use the acid, it needs to be evaporated to remove the excess water. By heating the now barren sulfuric acid, two great things will happen. You get nice clear concentrated sulfuric to work with and any contamination (copper,tin) will precipitate out as a sulfide (I believe but could be a sulfate). After evaporating, which can be done slowly at around 100°F lowering the danger of hot sulfuric, the acid will be a nice honey colored, thick liquid. This will work with the red colored drain opener too. Too, the time it takes for the gold powder to settle in the diluted sulfuric acid, the acid has a chance to attack any copper that may be in the powders. The acid will get greener as the powder settles.

Geo,

Thanks for the info. Maybe I will try this first with a small sample of the acid in my cell. Also, thanks for the warning. If I do attempt this, I will be very careful. I do have quite a bit of formal chemistry training which - at the very least - gives me a healthy respect for the dangers involved in such processes.

Geo said:
Keep the electrolyte as concentrated as possible and keep the amps as low as possible.

Roger, thanks for the clarification. I have a gallon of the drain opener in my cell, and it's running at 4 amps.

FrugalRefiner said:
Sulfuric will self-dilute every time you use the cell by absorbing moisture from the air. I believe I've read that 95% is about the sweet spot. 91% will probably still be OK but you may be approaching the limit.

Patience is a necessity in this endeavor. Give it time and it will settle.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

I brought the cell back outside today to do a couple of runs. The powder had not completely settled, but it was a lot easier to see that a bunch of it had in the natural sunlight.
 
i don't wait for it to settle,
i just filter it through a well packed fiberglass sharmin plug using a vacuum pump to quicken things up.

+ it gives it a chance to cool while going through the filtering process.
 

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