jason_recliner
Well-known member
Ooh, thanks. My very own melted pins ingot!upcyclist said:DING DING DING! Give that man a prize! :G
Ooh, thanks. My very own melted pins ingot!upcyclist said:DING DING DING! Give that man a prize! :G
patnor1011 said:Few thoughts about value. While mixed and I mean well mixed lots made from many types and sizes of BGA may contain 5g+ of gold in kilogram I have processed BGA S/N IC which returned less than 1g/kilogram. Hence the emphasis on "mixed".
10g/kilogram sound like you are talking about black top part only. I have yet to see or hear about whole BGA S/N IC which do have yield of 10g from kilogram so as I said that number is a yield from black top part only.
- 10 pounds which is 4,5 kilogram of material which may be worth about 950$ bought for 800$ is not a bad deal if they are well mixed variety but as it was mentioned - it is a lot of work :wink: . If you try to speed it up you may get less than expected. If they are of good variety this may be a way to get gold with some small discount providing you do it as hobby and have a lot of free time.
kernels said:Wise words there from Patnor, good luck Mitch, sounds like you have your head screwed on right, just be careful and work safely with the heat and chemicals. Looking forward to hearing your results.
jason_recliner said:Ok, I've had a bit more of a watch of the video.
I found it painfully slow and still couldn't refrain from skipping little chunks. I don't wish to be ungracious as this gentleman has been kind enough to make a video while I have not. But I think it could be condensed to maybe a third its length.
The pyrolizing, incineration and sieving processes were covered well.
The first AR refine (AR recovery) process was explained comprehensively. But in my opinion he wastes a lot of acid. Even though briefly evaporated down to maybe 80ml or so, he ends up dropping powder from a whopping 700ml or so of solution. All that waste needs to be dealt with.
I'd have evaporated it down slightly thicker to denox, and then only added a touch of HCl based on how much it fizzes up. Not 200ml.
A few drops of sulphuric (or equiv. dash of battery acid) would be good before adding the ice. This helps precipitate lead to a solid sulphate form before the filtering. Or for that matter, it can even help denox. Refer Hoke section V.
I may have skipped over him saying this, but he obviously refined this more than once. You won't get such a shiny button (with pipe) from that single refine and simply melting the black powder it returned.
Overall, very good. He is well set up, knows what he's doing, finished with quality product, and gives good consideration to safety throughout.
FrugalRefiner said:Mitch, please do not use text lingo like b4. It does not translate well for our members who do not speak English as their first language.
Dave
Mitch2580 said:jason_recliner said:A few drops of sulphuric (or equiv. dash of battery acid) would be good before adding the ice. This helps precipitate lead to a solid sulphate form before the filtering. Or for that matter, it can even help denox. Refer Hoke section V.
He has another video about filtering through 3 coffee filters from one beaker to another x10 to get the aqua Rega a crystal clear is this what your talking about and I will use what you say just b4 I add my ice
g_axelsson said:Spaceships suggested that I would copy his tutorial from the other forum...
Spaceships said:Here's a process I have learned and modified to get the best results for denoxing AR solutions.
The process is very cheap to operate and once learned and applied correctly it will remove the hassle of denoxing, and dramatically speed up the process of refining gold.
Caveats:
1. I am assuming that all normal safety procedures are both known and followed.
2. I am assuming that the reader has a basic but working knowledge of refining gold using AR.
3. I am assuming that the reader has all the relevant equipment to carry this out.
Basic theory:
Excess Nitric acid in a AR solution that is pregnant with AuCl will prevent the gold being precipitated using your preferred method of choice (SMB, ferrous II Sulphate etc.) The plan is to remove this excess Nitric leaving a solution that is ready to cool, filter, and process in the normal way in order to add your precipitant of choice.
Effectively the use of Sulphamic acid (I am British so I spell it the British way- Americans then to know it as Sulfamic Acid) does this by converting the Nitric acid to Sulphuric Acid, Nitrous Oxide, and water.
The chemical reaction is: HNO3 + H3NSO3 → H2SO4 + N2O + H2O
That's great to know, however let's concentrate on the practical application of the process because it also has some other benefits to the process other than the removal of Nitric, but I will cover those later.
Preparation of Sulphamic Acid solution.
Prepare your Sulphamic acid as follows:
You will need a 1 litre glass beaker, a hot plate, a plastic spoon, an inert stirring rod, water, and a tub of Sulphamic acid crystals.
Add 150ml of water to the beaker, and place on the hot plate. You want this solution to be warm to hot, not boiling.
Add a couple of teaspoons of the crystals to the water, stir and let it dissolve- this will happen relatively quickly to start with.
Keep repeating this process until your solution leaves some crystals in the bottom even after plenty of stirring. Your solution is now close to being saturated. It doesn't HAVE to be this strong but experience will help you learn the required amounts.
In order to learn this properly without any risk of losing gold, I would suggest that you prepare a dummy solution of AR. Remember the purpose of the tutorial is to help you learn to denox a solution so why risk your money if it can be learned without financial risk?
Preparation of "dummy" AR.
Put 100ml of HCl in a 1 litre beaker.
Add 100ml to 150ml of water - tap water is absolutely fine for this.
Add 3ml of Nitric acid (70%) or 6ml of Nitric acid (35%) or the equivalent of "poor man's Nitric."
Put this on a hotplate (WITH A CATCH PAN) and warm up. Again you want a warm to hot solution - as if you were truly dissolving gold but no need to boil.
Once you have the two warm solutions ready then move onto the next stage.
Application of the Sulphamic Acid on the AR.
Gently add a few (and I mean literally a few) ml of the solution you made from the Sulphamic Acid and water to the AR. You will immediately see a vigorous foaming of the AR. Put your Sulphamic solution down and then stir your AR. The initial reaction WILL THEN BECOME A LOT MORE VIGOROUS.
Now, this is why I suggested that you learn using a "dummy" solution. You will possibly add too much on your first attempt and then proceed to watch with little tears of joy, as your AR solution bubbles up and foams over the sides of the beaker.
I can promise you from experience that those little tears of joy are infinitely more preferable than the tears you will cry if your solution had been pregnant. I cried those tears once - and my AR was orange at the time....
When the reaction has abated, repeat it. Then repeat it again, until you get very little reaction after addition of the Sulphamic Acid solution and stirring. At this point leave it alone for 15 minutes and go and do something else. You may have to mix another set of Sulphamic Acid solution and this is a good time to do it.
After 15 minutes, come back, add more Sulphamic Acid solution to the AR, stir and see what happens. You may almost be at the point where the Nitric has been converted by now. You need to repeat the last step until there is no reaction with the AR. At that point you are denoxed and I would leave the solution on the hotplate for 30 minutes, then cool, add ice, and do all the things you normally do.
Learn the process using "dummy" AR or even Nitric and water until you are totally comfortable before applying it to your gold pregnant AR. You will make mistakes, that's fine. You will learn from them in a "risk free" manner."
Learn the process, make a few mistakes, then get comfortable with the application of it and it will serve you well.
Now here are a couple of practical pointers for using "live" AR.
1. Don't filter your AR before denoxing. Decant it from your spent , raw product, wash your spent product down and pour the liquid into your denox glassware with the AR, and denox it "warts and all." You will filter it afterwards.
2. One by product of the process above is that the sulphuric acid produced will precipitate out any lead as lead salts so it can save you adding Sulphuric acid later to do this.
I hope this helps. If I have missed anything, or you'd like further information then please let me know.
Regards
Jon
This looks like a well thought through tutorial, thanks Jon! I really like the tip of testing on a dummy AR solution as it seems boil over is a large risk when using sulfamic on hot solutions.
Any comments on this?
Göran
butcher said:Mitch,
I enjoyed your video, well done, I look forward to seeing more of your experiments.
I can see you have a fairly good understanding of the process and have been doing your homework, I can see some small details which can be improved upon. Details which will come with more experience.
Welcome to the forum, I believe you will make a good addition to the Gold Refining Forum, sharing our interest to improve our education, recovering and refining those precious metals.
butcher said:Mitch,
I enjoyed your video, well done, I look forward to seeing more of your experiments.
I can see you have a fairly good understanding of the process and have been doing your homework, I can see some small details which can be improved upon. Details which will come with more experience.
Welcome to the forum, I believe you will make a good addition to the Gold Refining Forum, sharing our interest to improve our education, recovering and refining those precious metals.
those are the chips with pins on two sides DIP is Dual Inline Pins.Mitch2580 said:Topher what are DIP'S ?
Please forgive my lack of knowledge
Kind regards
Mitch
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