bswartzwelder
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2011
- Messages
- 660
Hi All,
I have a couple of gallon jars filled with CPU's, memory, North Bridge and South Bridge chips and quite an array of other black chips. I would like to build a device to allow me to reduce them easily and cheaply to the gray white ash that Patnor has demonstrated. Where I live, I don't have a ready source of coal, so my fuel of choice will be charcoal. To boost the output temperature, I plan to introduce extra air. Below, are my thoughts. Any criticism or ideas are welcome. I love to build things.
Every time I'm near a garage sale, flea market, or second hand store, I always look for cheap coffee makers with a lid that opens exposing the filter area, blow dryers, and Corningware dishes. I plan to make this device as a two piece unit. The bottom will house the firebox, the top will hold the Corningware dish. The Corningware dishes I have are approximately 3 inches deep and 7 inches square.
The entire unit will be constructed out of 1/4 inch steel plate and welded together. The top, since this will be the easiest, will be a 1/4 inch thick steel box (with an open top) just slightly larger than the dish but not as tall. The dish will sit down into it with the handles exposed above the rim. Onto the bottom, I'll weld some 1/4 inch by 1.25 inch steel rectangular bars oriented on end. They will all be parallel and will extend past the sides of the upper box. Their purposes are to put a space between the upper box and the bottom of the unit to provide a solid base which will rest on the bottom. As an added benefit, they will divert the hot gasses out to the left and right away from the person operating the unit. Should the Corningware dish break, everything will be contained within the steel box.
The bottom (combustion chamber) will be constructed slightly larger in outside dimensions than the top unit. This will allow me to line the inside of the lower unit with some form of refractory material or fire bricks. I will drill two holes on opposing sides near the bottom to allow the air manifold to pass through. It is very easy to cut, drill and sand firebricks so this makes the job a simple one. The air manifold will consist of two pieces of pipe with a series of small holes drilled into them. There will be two rows of holes on each pipe. One row facing straight up and the other rows slanted slightly towards the center of the combustion chamber. Outside of the combustion chamber, on one end, the pipes will be joined to a single inlet pipe. The opposite ends will be capped off. The single inlet pipe will be large enough to allow a blow dryer nozzle to fit inside. The entire combustion chamber will sit on three legs long enough to allow air circulation under the unit and make fitting up the blow dryer easy. I am not certain of the height of the unit, but it will determine the amount of charcoal which can be used. Two handles will be added to facilitate carrying the lower unit WHEN COOL.
I have built a small forge from a 20 pound propane cylinder based on this design and can verify I have heated a 1/4 inch by 3 inch wide steel bar to a bright red temperature after only a few minutes of sitting on the open top of the unit. My idea is to pyrolize chips not boil off the gold inside of them. Comments?
I have a couple of gallon jars filled with CPU's, memory, North Bridge and South Bridge chips and quite an array of other black chips. I would like to build a device to allow me to reduce them easily and cheaply to the gray white ash that Patnor has demonstrated. Where I live, I don't have a ready source of coal, so my fuel of choice will be charcoal. To boost the output temperature, I plan to introduce extra air. Below, are my thoughts. Any criticism or ideas are welcome. I love to build things.
Every time I'm near a garage sale, flea market, or second hand store, I always look for cheap coffee makers with a lid that opens exposing the filter area, blow dryers, and Corningware dishes. I plan to make this device as a two piece unit. The bottom will house the firebox, the top will hold the Corningware dish. The Corningware dishes I have are approximately 3 inches deep and 7 inches square.
The entire unit will be constructed out of 1/4 inch steel plate and welded together. The top, since this will be the easiest, will be a 1/4 inch thick steel box (with an open top) just slightly larger than the dish but not as tall. The dish will sit down into it with the handles exposed above the rim. Onto the bottom, I'll weld some 1/4 inch by 1.25 inch steel rectangular bars oriented on end. They will all be parallel and will extend past the sides of the upper box. Their purposes are to put a space between the upper box and the bottom of the unit to provide a solid base which will rest on the bottom. As an added benefit, they will divert the hot gasses out to the left and right away from the person operating the unit. Should the Corningware dish break, everything will be contained within the steel box.
The bottom (combustion chamber) will be constructed slightly larger in outside dimensions than the top unit. This will allow me to line the inside of the lower unit with some form of refractory material or fire bricks. I will drill two holes on opposing sides near the bottom to allow the air manifold to pass through. It is very easy to cut, drill and sand firebricks so this makes the job a simple one. The air manifold will consist of two pieces of pipe with a series of small holes drilled into them. There will be two rows of holes on each pipe. One row facing straight up and the other rows slanted slightly towards the center of the combustion chamber. Outside of the combustion chamber, on one end, the pipes will be joined to a single inlet pipe. The opposite ends will be capped off. The single inlet pipe will be large enough to allow a blow dryer nozzle to fit inside. The entire combustion chamber will sit on three legs long enough to allow air circulation under the unit and make fitting up the blow dryer easy. I am not certain of the height of the unit, but it will determine the amount of charcoal which can be used. Two handles will be added to facilitate carrying the lower unit WHEN COOL.
I have built a small forge from a 20 pound propane cylinder based on this design and can verify I have heated a 1/4 inch by 3 inch wide steel bar to a bright red temperature after only a few minutes of sitting on the open top of the unit. My idea is to pyrolize chips not boil off the gold inside of them. Comments?